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" checked everything inside the house, snaked all of the roof plumbing vents, located the sewer line going from the house to the city sewer" and installed a cleanout access in front of the house, where it is easy to reach. I have used many times, in this house and in a previous house. In addition, I have recommended him to several friends, who have all been please with his work. He is on call 24 hours a day, lives in my neighborhood, is always prompt, reliable and gets the job done. His prices are very good, and he is not interested in gouging his customers. He has a lot of repeat customers because he is an honest man. takes pride in his work.

-Shirley K.

"VERY satisfied with the work! was professional, courteous and friendly. He came and gave a FREE estimate after assessing the problem. And" when we agreed to allow him to complete the job he did it right then which was after 6:00pm. There were no extra charges for the late service. He completed the job in the same night, replacing approximately 67ft of underground pipe. He returned the next day to clean up and meet us to inspect the work to make sure we were completely satisfied. A few days later he returned when we called him to let him know the kitchen water pressure was low. He found the problem, which was dirt that had gotten in the pipe when the outside pipe broke. He unclogged the dirt at no extra charge. I will continue to use ER Rooter Inc. every time a plumbing issue arises and HIGHLY recommend them! Thank you ER Rooter Inc/ .

-Shari W.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Jacksonville


Non-emergency call, but still arived within two hours and expertly handled a basic but beyond-me task. Good job. Office telephone handler courteous, pleasant and efficient
- Simon K.

They snaked the drain. I've used them before and will again if the need arises. They're quick to respond, schedule and to show up for appointments. Professional and pleasant to work with.
- Angela M.

They were prompt, reliable with time, efficient, kept us informed on any arrival time changes, and on the process they used before and after. We were given a price ahead of time, and the servicemen were aware of that price.

I definitely feel that I made good use of my hour. While the plumber was fixing the toilet, I mentioned that the sink was draining slow and he offered to snake it for me. When he left I was cery pleased with the work. My toilet was fixed, new seat installed and my sink drains good now. Highly recommend.
- Sharon L.

The tech searched for an outside pipe, but since our home was built in 1983, it was buried underground with no access. In order to save us time and money, he went through the roof-top vents. With-in 45 minutes or so, he had everything unclogged and working beatifully. He was both pleasant and professional. In addition, we received a 6 month guarantee!
...More /> I would not hesitate to hire or recommend this company and their service again.!!!

- Dennis D.

They first tried to upstop with the snake in the drain, but did not seem to work. Then they went upon the house and started looking at the vent. This is an old house and there is still some galvanzied pipe and so some of the rust had settled in the pipe and why it would not drain properly. They went under the house and finally was able to get everything ...More clear and clean.
To me this was excellent service and checking all possibilities, compared to the other plumbers. They were very thorough and even though the cost was a little more than I expected, with the time they spent and the work they did it was well worth the money. Definitely will not have to spend more money on calling a plumber back again for the same issue 3/4 months later.
the technician was excellent and appreciated his efficent work and job satisfaction.
I have other plumbing work and will definitely use .

- Anthony T.

The provider was very courteous and professional. I was unsure of whether I would be getting the work done but the provider made sure to go over all my options. I was appreciative of the time they took and the fact that I wasn't made to feel rushed or pressured into a service call. I would contact them again and if it turns out that I need this ...More work performed I will use them.
- Laitishia O.

We highly recommend this company; they responded in minutes; called just before arrival; performed the job and cleaned up their work area. They were reasonable on price, very courteous and we highly recommend this company to anyone. ER Rooter provided a three month warranty on their work and we will indeed call them in the future.
- Ken F.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Jacksonville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A to Z Services LLC

12805 Old Field Landing Dr

A-AArrow Plumbing Co

2024 Flesher Avenue

A.D.I. Services, inc

2757 Ernest St

A1 Plumbing, HVAC & Refrigeration

11762 Marco Beach Drive

Able Plumbing Repair Service Inc

170 College Dr
Orange Park


PO BOX 49225
Jacksonville Beach

Air Engineers Service Experts

8475 Western Way

Air McCall

6662 Columbia Park Dr. S.

All Weather Contractors

1702 Lindsey Rd

Aman Construction Services, LLC

52 Tuscan Way
St. Agusutine

Amazing Property Preservation Inc.

P.O. Box 19722
Jacksonville Beach

Amelia Plumbing Inc.

2307 Marshpoint Rd
Neptune Beach

American Commercial Services

Secret Garden Lane
Fleming Island





Asantec Plumbing Service

4480 Calendula Circle

ASAP Plumbing

PO Box 48070



Ashley Plumbing Co inc

11828 New Kings Rd

Askew's Properties Management, Inc.

10260 Mayan Dr.

AZ Remodeling & Plumbing Inc

5030 Champion Blvd
Boca Raton

B & G Plumbing, Heating and Air Conditioning

2232 Corporate Square Blvd

Beckwith Plumbing Inc

2653 Parrish Cemetery Rd

Bill Fenwick Plumbing Inc

11623 Columbia Park Dr E

Budget Rooter $59.99 Drain Stoppage Service

6415 Norwood Ave

Burbank Maintenance

11255 Guinn Rd

Byrnes Plumbing and More, Inc.

2374 Stonehaven Ct E
Orange Park

C.W. Berger LLC

6776 Townsend Rd



CCI Restoration Services

1750 Emerson St

CDM Home Repair LLC

2771-29 monument rd suite 181

Cedric Richards

2920 Ravines Rd

Celtic Custom Plumbing Inc

1829 Brookwood Rd

Certified Climate Control

690 A East Rhode Island Ave
Orange City

Champion Septic

PO Box 141

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

Clay County Master Plumbing LLC

449 Arthur Moore Dr
Green Cove Springs

Conkle Drain Cleaing

Jacksonville Florida

Cook's East Coast Plumbing

4850 Outrigger Drive

Copeland Professional Consultants, LLC

1704 Detroit St

Cornerstone Construction & Company Inc

1746 E Silver Star Rd

Craft Brothers, Inc./Precision Playgrounds

5120 Damascus Road North

CS Handyman Services Group, LLC

2806 Paces Ferry Road West
Orange Park

D.W.V. Plumbing Inc.

PO Box 11033

Dale's Plumbing Co Inc

688-C Kingsley Ave
Orange Park


4472 Phillips Hwy

David Gray Plumbing

6491 Powers Ave

Dependable Plumbing & Drain Cleaning

1473 Wells Rd
Orange Park

Donald & Ronald's Universal Home Repair

Aries Rd. west

Dr Plumbing,Inc

10922 horse track dr

Eagerton Plumbing Co Inc

1093 N Mcduff Ave

Eagle 2 Construction LLC

2505 Beautyberry Cir E

Emergency Repair Plumbing

1195 Whispering Pines Rd

Everybodys Plumbing Company Inc.

7014 Macbeth Rd

Extreme Plumbing

8620 Blarney Stone Ct

F W Fair Plumbing Co

752 Shetter Ave
Jacksonville Beach

Flow Solutions Inc

4835 Brierwood Rd S

Good Fellas Construction

2048 Game Well Rd

Granite Transformations of Jacksonville

4689 US 17 Highway
Fleming Island

Grant's Plumbing

9731 Sandler Road



Harry L Hayes Plumbing Inc

130 Arlington Rd S


Orange Park

Innovative Plumbing


J Piner Enterprises LLC

12525 Sterling Run Ct

J&D Commercial Services Inc.

609 Catherine Foster Ln
Saint Johns

Jacksonville Plumbers

841 Prudential Dr

Jaxhandyman Warranty/Service & Repair Corp.

1232 Blanding Blvd
Orange Park

Ken Johnson Plumbing, LLC

14055 Redrock Lake Dr

Kennedy Plumbing Inc.

2517 Shady Woods Dr

Kimball Plumbing

836 Mamie Road



Lance Maxwell Plumbing Inc

5310 & 5306 Tower Rd

Latin American Plumbing Services Inc

10211 Huntington Forest Blvd E

Laura Cousin

1485 Marehview Court
Atlantic Besch

Leprechaun Plumbing

7567 Fremont Ave
Keystone Heights

Lettow Plumbing & Restoration LLC

PO Box 7161

locksmith- Jake De.Handyman-N-Locksmith Man

4370 Southside, Blvd


2843 Bishop Estates Rd
Saint Johns

Magic Rooter Services

5924 Hwy Ave

ManHans Plumbing Service

13400 Sutton Park Dr S

Marku Construction Inc

4561 Antler Hill Dr W

Merlo's Construction

7503 Devondale Way


8892 Normandy Blvd

Mike Wood Plumbing

6640 Arlingon Rd

Mr. Fix-It Handyman Service

2751 Emily Ln

Mr. Rooter of Jacksonville

2508 Academy Ave


11590 Davis Creek Rd E

Nolan Plumbing & Irrigation Inc

12542 Woodcutter Rd

North Florida Plumbing

3693 Morton Street

Old City Drain Cleaning

1091 S Winterhawk Dr
Saint Augustine

P Oberdeck Plumbing


Parrish Tile & Remodeling

1886 Mcguire Way



Patton Property Maintenance

2223 Atlantic Blvd


6271 St Augustine Rd #356

Powers Services and Repairs, Inc.

1118 Legay Ave.

Preferred Maintenance

11111-70 San Jose Blvd

Professor Plumb

1015 Atlantic Blvd
Atlantic Beach


505 Lane Ave N


2071 23 EMERSON ST

Robert Lanier Handyman Services

9536 Princeton Square Blvd. south

Rock Solid Plumbing Services

1503 County Road 315
Green Cove Springs

Rock Solid Servicing, Inc.

6500 Lake Gray Blvd. Suite 1005




PO BOX 1000
Glen Saint Mary

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

2028 W 21st St

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1960 US 1 S
Saint Augustine

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

2028 W 21st St

S&K Maintenance

11606 Columbia Park Dr E

Scrap Aluminum Processors Two

10931 Beach Boulevard

Shotgun Plumbing Inc

PO Box 56469



Sims Southern Inc.,

4909 victor st

Snyder Heating and Air Conditioning

3401 Southside Blvd

Southern Grace Homes

10605 Theresa Dr


Saint Johns


1601 MAIN ST
Atlantic Beach

Sunshine State Plumbing

710 Haines St

Terry Vereen Plumbing

2690 Rosselle St

Tier 1 Construction

13245 Atlantic Blvd

Tillman Septic Pumping Inc

108 Halsema Rd N

Troy Trawick Plumbing Co Inc

2470 Cortez Rd


1903 Hendricks Ave

Value Plus

10301 Plummer Rd

W.W. Gay Mechanical Contractor, Inc.

St. Augustine

Watson Plumbing

4456 Sunbeam Rd

Wayne Conn Plumbing Inc

6915 W Beaver St

WF Ross Industries Inc

87638 Roses Bluff Rd

Xtreme Renovations

1055 Cassat Ave

Zink's Insulation, llc

12261 Cobblefield Cir N

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