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"Got results: Cladosporium Hyphal fragments And the meaning: Cladosporium (clad-oh-
)" – common allergen / contaminant / very rarely pathogenic, found everywhere, many times the most common and numerous mold found in outdoor air. Indoor concentrations are usually not as high, but it is an important airborne allergen and common agent for hay fever, asthma, and other allergy related symptoms. It can thrive in various indoor environments, appearing light green to black Cladosporium can be found in most air samples most of the time. It is very common. Cladosporium is one of the type and here's the accompanying "definitions" that explain the results: Thank you for allowing
, Ltd. to process your samples. Please follow these easy steps: 1. Read your lab report 2. Read the glossary entry for each of the type(s) of mold listed on your report to learn of potential health effects associated with the type of mold detected in your sample 3. Review the FAQ found after the glossary to help understand the report. 4. Need more assistance understanding your report? Call us; we are here to help toll free 1-866-416-MOLD (6653) Monday through Friday 8-6pm. 1X=
, less than 10 count 2X=minor, 10-20 count 3X=major, 20-50 count 4X=abundant, greater than 50 count Tape lifts/surface direct exams generally not used for quantitative analysis, rather are reported semi-quantitatively as a rating (
, minor, major, abundant) so that one can have an idea of relative amount present. This test is primarily used qualitatively to identify the type of mold present. If results are negative (no mold detected), a bulk or swab culture of the material might be recommended to verify results because spores can be down inside porous material and can be missed by direct exam. Also, be aware that large surfaces can have multiple mold types spanning across it, and a single tape-lift might not be inclusive or representative of all the molds. *Diagnosis of health effects should be left to a medical professional. Health effects in general are not well studied, and dosage, exposure, and sensitivity thresholds are not well known and can potentially vary tremendously depending on various conditions and on the particular individual. Effects can also vary from species to species within a particular mold genus. The EPA, OSHA, NIOSH and other occupational health related associations in the U.S. have not yet established permissible exposure levels (
), recommended exposure limits (REL), or other limit values for aeroallergens. Please realize that the evaluation of one's specific results in terms of potential health hazards and subsequent courses of action are beyond the scope of the laboratory analysis. Those requiring expert advisement on a particular situation should retain the services of a professional IAQ consultant. Results apply only to samples tested. Results may not be reproduced except in full without prior written approval of
. License No: LAB0137 by the Texas Dept. of State Health Services. AIHA EMPAT ID No. 154782.
is a Certified
Analyst Level 1 (ID No: 10040071) by the
American Aerobiology Certification Board. Analyst:
Wood Lab Director:
Frequently Asked Questions What does the rating system 1X-4X mean? 1X-4X is a visual estimate rating. 1X equals a
amount and can be found in typical dust samples and a 4X rating of abundant tends to come directly from a source of the mold. For example, you saw mold growing on a piece of wood, you sent in a tape lift sample of it, the lab would probably send you back a report with a 4X rating of what ever type of mold was there. Conversely, if you had taken a sample of dust that had settled on a tabletop, you may get a report back with a 1X of several types of mold listed. It is normal for many types of mold to be airborne every day so it is not uncommon to find
amounts in a typical dust sample. Keep in mind that there are numerous variables involved in interpreting lab results and attempting to make conclusions based solely on preliminary testing such as tape lifts is generally considered unreliable. What do I do now? If you receive a lab report back that lists abundant levels of types of mold that have adverse health affects associated with it, we usually recommend that air samples be taken. Of course each situation is different and air samples may not be necessary in all circumstances. Air sampling will tell you if that same mold the lab detected on your tape lift sample is airborne. Call us we may have a referral for in your area or you can find professionals on the Internet or look in your local phone book under labels/
criteria such as: Indoor Air Quality testing, Industrial Hygienist, Environmental Consultant, Mold Remediation, or check with your local health department. How do I get rid of it? Most molds are allergens and some may be toxigenic, so if you are going to disturb the mold with cleaning methods, you increase your chances of exposure to the particulate. That being said, mold clean up and disposal methods vary greatly from source to source and company to company. A good
of thumb is that if the contaminated area is small and the material is non porous such as metal, it can be cleaned by traditional methods, taking care to use personal protective equipment. Porous materials on the other hand, such as wood, textiles, sheetrock etc. are difficult to clean because of the tiny microscopic holes in the material. The root type structures of the mold called hyphae/mycelia, can grow down into the holes and make it hard to clean effectively. The surface can appear to be wiped clean but as soon as the conditions are favorable the mold can start to grow again from the hyphae down inside the material. Is this the Black Mold? Usually when a customer asks this question he/she is referring to Stachybotrys, because that is the particular type of mold that received so much media coverage in the late 90’s and early 2000’s. Although Stachybotrys is black in color, so are many other types of mold. Also, you do not want to make the mistake and discount the importance of other types of mold that may be listed on your report. Just because you do not see the word or words Stachybotrys or Black mold on your report does not mean that there may not be a potentially harmful mold present. Please look up the type of mold detected on your report in our Mold Dictionary for a better understanding of the type of mold you are dealing with. There are many excellent resources for mold information on the Internet and we encourage you to educate yourself with information from as many different sources as deemed reasonable. Can we still live here? That is a difficult question to answer since there are no established ‘safe’ levels of mold and more importantly individuals have dramatically different resistances to mold. If you received test results back and after looking up those types of mold on our Mold Dictionary or used another resource and determined that there are some potentially harmful health affects associated with the mold, you should consult with your healthcare provider regarding further exposure. The following questions may help you answer that question. a) How wide spread is the contamination? Is it inside a cabinet? Or is it inside a wall cavity, or under the entire carpet pad? If it is a small area you can close/seal it off until it can be cleaned properly by a professional. If the contamination is wide spread or you do not know the extent of the contamination you should probably contact a professional in your area for advice. b) Do any of the occupants fall into the particularly susceptible group, like persons with existing respiratory disorders, the young, the elderly or the immune suppressed? If so, it is recommended to err on the side of caution and discontinue any possible exposure of these individuals. c) Is the mold airborne? Is the mold in an occupied area? If you received a lab report back from tape lifts and the types of mold listed have potential health affects associated with it, we recommend taking air samples. Having air samples taken will let you know if the mold you sent in on the tape lifts has contaminated the air. We highly recommend having an Exterior / outdoor sample taken at approximately the same time the interior samples are taken so you will know what is considered normal for your area this time of year. d) Have you been experiencing any health problems that you think may be due to mold exposure? Will it come back? It certainly can if the conditions are conducive to its growth. Different types of mold thrive in various conditions. Some types of mold grow in high moisture, some low, some like cellulose, some prefer decaying material, etc. For this reason it is easy to see how you can have one type of mold growing in the bathroom and yet another type growing in the kitchen or on a tree stump in the yard. As far as in your home, control of mold growth involves keeping the organic materials dry and keeping wet areas clean of organic dust/dirt/debris. What about my clothing, furniture etc.? Can these items be cleaned or do I need to throw everything out? If the item is a non-porous hard surface such as metal or plastic they typically can be cleaned. The tricky items are the porous materials like clothing and furniture and whether the mold was growing on it or the contamination was from settled spores. Was the item the source from which you lifted the tape sample? Or is the item simply in the same area or room of the contamination? Abbreviated Mold Dictionary (for full Mold dictionary, complete with color pictures, visit our website at www.
.com) ***Diagnosis of a particular health effect should be left to a medical professional. Health effects in general are not well studied, and... Sorry, I have reached Angie's list character limit...

-Sunny N.

"The service provider -
- was on time. He was knowledgable and professional. It was clear that he had a great deal of experience in all" sort of mold related issues - as well as the one specific to our situation where mold had been caused by the improper installation of wood flooring. The report they produced was very detailed and specific. I would highly recommend this company.


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Local Articles in Houston


Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

A cold-air return duct work for an HVAC system
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Worried about mold in your air ducts? Learn how to test for mold and what you can expect to pay for air duct cleaning.

carpet rolls in front of a home
Water & Smoke Damage, Carpet Cleaning, Mold Testing & Remediation

Flooding, plumbing leaks can lead to harmful mold growth on and underneath your home's flooring.

Angie's List
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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Houston


Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
served as the hygienist on a commercial mold remediation project and did an excellent job of evaluating the site, testing the scope of the issue, interfacing with the remediatiors and generating thorough and timely reports. I would recommend him.
- Michele H.

The company said that the treatment was for prevention, and they could not perform the treatment since we already had mold. They quoted over $800 to remove the mold. We declined the $800, so they said that we could get a refund.
- Ginny J.

Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
showed up on time, assessed the situation, recommended a course of action, price half that of the other guy who came in to make an estimate. Did the work exactly according to schedule. Did this with minimum disruption. House passed re-inspection and air quality testing. Very knowledgeable and professional and I will use him again if the problem ever returns. My highest possible recommendation.
- Stuart D.

.Initial encounter was ok. The technician was punctual, found the visible
mold throughout the house, made a number of recommendations for
remediation, some of which seemed a bit excessive. Importantly, he also
recommended a contractor for remediation. That contractor (who gets
excellent reviews here) made a recommendation, and estimated a cost of
$7-8K to clear out all the mold. I called for a second estimate from another remediation expert
(also A rated here) who estimated half that price for the same work. I had that one do
the work. I then called
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
fo re-testing to see if there
were still mold spores in the air after remediation (and also after
replacement of the entire houses air conditioning system). The same
technician come and seemed quite unhappy that I did not use the original
contractor he recommended. He was quite clear on this point, so much so
that it made me suspicious if everything was straight up. Rather than
do a single air quality test on the third floor of the house (like he
did the first time), this time he takes three samples (the price is cumulative for each one) and tells
me that in order to pass the inspection, all three samples will need to
come out clean. I urged him to try to get results back quickly, he
said that the results might be available by that night or the next
morning, but still no results. That is not so big a deal, but worth noting.
I am concerned about a couple of things. One is that the relationship between this testing
firm and the initial contractor seemed a bit too cozy, especially because the contractor quoted a much higher price. Why does the contractor care which licensed contractor I used?

Second, I am
concerned that the price on the second mold
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
air quality test was
artificially enhanced by taking a larger number of sample on the floor
than he did the first time. When the time comes that I get the results,
and if the house fails, I frankly am not sure I can trust the result. My
inclination is to get an independent test from a different testing
company to do another test (another $500).
I may be casting aspersions, but I do not have any confidence that I am being dealt with fairly.
- Stuart D.

Around 8:30
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
arrived to take over 200 pics inside, outside, under, over, around and beyond. Besides mold, he found an infestation of crickets, roaches, live electrical wiring, water leaks, trash under house, trash in attic and the list kept growing.
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was probably there for 3 to 4 hours.
My daughter immediately called her landlord to discuss the pics and findings from expert and owner,
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
. By 7 that night the landlord (Mrs S.) was at the duplex. Mrs. S had reviewed
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
's website and several of the pictures. It was clear when Mrs. S arrived that she realized how damaging
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
's findings had been. Mrs. S without much hesistation agreed to release my D from her lease and return her deposit.
My D talked with her duplex neighbor who had a much worse mold problem. My daughter coaxed the neighbor through the process to get Mrs. S to release her from her lease and to return her deposit. Both ladies have found new, mold free places to live and are moving out this weekend.
My daughter had lots of questions for
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
, not only about the mold and how to prevent spreading it to her new place, but how to approach Mrs. S. He was so helpful guiding her through the process. Because of the great pics, excellent explanations and expert guidance, my daughter is on to a fresh start in
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Thank you
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
- Carolyn E.

Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
was great. He was very accommodating and came out to inspect that house the next day. He was patient and let me ask a ton of questions. The Angie's list discount was definitely helpful too.
- Theresa P.

Big thank you to
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
and his team. They were very efficient and addressed all my safety concerns. I'm very particular about repairs and had a lot of questions.
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
always answered his phone and was very knowledgeable. He didn't try to up-sell me; he did what was needed for the repair and did a great job. His team was very pleasant as well.
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
followed up after the completion of the work to make sure I was completely satisfied. They are professionals and I would definitely recommend them.
- Lauren M.

I had an unfortunate mold remediation experience (911 Restoration), and perhaps the only way I managed as well as I did throughout the process is because of the advice and sharing of experiences from
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
Houston Mold Remediators Provider Name Locked
. They were both pivotal in informing me of what the mold remediation company was doing right AND wrong. For that I am truly thankful.
My only grievance is that it the air testing results took much longer than promised to get. Two of the tests took >4 days to get back, and even longer to receive the final clearance report + certificate. I think they are excellent at what they do, and many other people know it, which causes their work load and schedules to get out of hand.
- Benjamin C.

All Mold Remediators in Houston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st American Storage

12310 Perry Rd

1st Choice Home Services - Houston Metro

2600 S Shore Blvd
League City

911 Restoration of Houston

6212 Evergreen Street

A Ok Simplex Inspections

334 Hardy St

A-Flood Control

PO Box 339

AAA Flood Masters LLC

10655 Hwy 365



ABC Restoration Inc

1106 Carby Rd

Able Inspections & Engineering

PO Box 820129

Acme Roofing & Construction

395 Sawdust Rd.



Advanced Carpet Clean & Dye

6103 Larkmount Drive

All Coast Home Inspections

9230 lee ln

All Stucco Mold Houston

11523 Twain Drive

Allspann Construction Services

119 Magnolia Blvd

Anderson & Son's

5206 Anthony Ln

AQ Testing Services LLC

P.O. Box 389

Arista's Painting & Remodeling

13100 W. Bellfort Ave.
Sugar Land

Arrow Services, Inc.

10202 Airline Drive, Suite A

Arrow Termite & Pest Control

4720 Jones Creek Rd

Asbestos and Mold Services

6 N Brook Pebble Ct

Atlas Green Homes

Main office in Houston. serving Austin,San Antonio

Benchmark Claims Consultants, LLC

107 S Friendswood Dr., Suite A

BIONIC Emergency Svcs

14300 NW Freeway

BioSweep Odor Removal Services

1511 Bingle Rd D-8

Black & White Construction Inc

PO Box 8225
The Woodlands

Blackmon Mooring

10511 Kipp Way

Boone's Restoration & Carpet Cleaning

PO Box 8515
The Woodlands

Brand Construction Services LLC

8876 Gulf Freeway

Brown Sterling Builders Inc

715 Bradfield

Brushstrokes Painting & Remodeling

Sugar Land

Carpet Cleaning Pecan Grove TX

1906 Mayweather Ln

Carpet Cleaning Santa Fe TX

4233 FM 1764 Rd
Santa Fe

Carpet Cleaning Webster TX

17926 Hwy 3

Chance Cooper Construction

26407 Aldine Westfield Rd

COIT Cleaning and Restoration of Houston

9001 Spring Branch Dr

Crown Services

4609 Viking Dr.

DRD Disaster Technologies

PO Box 2316
New Caney

Drymore Mold Removal

7941 Katy Freeway, #525

E L Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

East-Tex Eco Services

10302 Rudolph Court
Missouri City

Escamilla Company

7743 Alperton Drive

Fire Damage Sugar Land

179 Brooks St
Sugar Land

Fresh Air

2418 Basse Road
San Antonio

Frontier Services Group, LLC

6125 West Sam Houston Parkway North


San Antonio

GCR Builders

1903 1st St
La Marque

Global Deco

1226 W Grand Pkwy S


309 Morningside Dr

Home Remedy LLC

9505 Yupondale

Houston Carpet Cleaners

9600 Glenfield Ct

J & K AC & Heating

28912 Riley Rd

L.A. Public Insurance Adjuster

6631 Emerald Drive

Lindberg Services Group

330 Rayford Rd.

Loflin Environmental Services Inc

2020 Montrose Blvd

Loretta Cason

League City

M & W Remodeling

17319 NordWay Dr

Made New Again

2904 Park Bend Dr




7609 140Th Pl NE

Mold Inspection & Testing Houston TX

12506 Cannonwood Lane

Mold Inspection Houston

5534 Birdwood Rd

Mold Inspection Sciences

1127 Eldridge Pkwy


2501 Mayes road

Mosaic Residential

15021 Katy Freeway

Mundae Cleaning & Restoration Services

3375 Westpark Drive 236

NB Contractors Inc

PO Box 941804

NobeNash Inc

727 N Shepherd Dr


PO Box 580186

Oleander Construction

20530 Benwest Ct

Olympic Restoration Systems

12413 Maplewood Drive
Fort Worth

On the Spot America, Inc.

PO Box 924108

Onyx Construction & New Home, Inc

8325 Broadway St.



Peesi Engineering

16315 Diamond Rock

Pinnacle Disaster & Recovery Services

12507 Woodworth Dr.

Preferred Home Inspections Inc

26406 Pine Canyon Dr

Pro Services Cleaning & Restoration

9600 Glenfield Court

Pro-Tech Restoration LLC

11702 Beechnut St.
Sugar Land





PuroClean Services

6125 W Sam Houston Pkwy N

Right Choice Restoration

14651 Philippine ST. AP #4108

Robert J Reda & Associates LLC

5341 Nolda St. Unit D

Rolyn Companies, Inc.

5706 Frederick Ave



SanRos Field Services

3701 S Richey St
South Houston


14543 HIGHWAY 105

ServiceMaster Advantage

602 Hobbs Rd
League City

ServiceMaster Restoration & Cleaning

801 Russell Palmer Rd


1500 Brittmoore Rd

Servpro of Sugar Land

740 Industrial Blvd
Sugar Land

Servpro Of The Woodlands Conroe

2700 Greens Rd

SERVPRO of Town & Country

10643 Haddington Dr

Southpro Restoration

4549 Brittmoore Rd

Stucco Check LLC

14903 Bellaire Blvd



Sun Company Remodeling

3622 marywood

Superior Renovations & Construction

8000 Research Forest Drive

Tanner & Associates

West Sam Houston Parkway



Texas Kitchen and Bath

P.O. Box 15008

The DirtBusters Services

6813 Turtlewood Dr

The Renovation Team Inc.

7910 Westview Ste D

Triton Renovation

3210 N Frazier St

U Gotta Guy

5315B Cypress Creek Pkwy

UCM Services Houston

7422 Welsh Stone Ln

W H S Construction Inc

12366 Taurus Dr

Water Damage Houston

1947 W McKinney St

Watermark Restoration Ltd

11020 Katy Fwy Ste 205

WayCo Services

PO Box 806

West Bay Contracting

12518 Green River Dr

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