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A
"This is an all day evolution. The setup and teardown take as much as the procedure itself. There is a lot of equipment involved. They have to seal all of your" duct registers and returns to create a completely closed system. Then they connect the heater/blower system to a your duct work via a large diameter flow pipe. Then they start blowing air into your system via the heater blower unit. Once the air flow is up to speed the sealant is pumped and atomized thru the blower into your duct work. The sealant finds all of the small holes within your ductwork and slowly seals them as the blower continues to flow air. After a while (it was about an hour for me) the sealant seals all of the leaks and the evolution is complete. The whole thing is managed by a laptop with software the monitors airflow, pressure and sealant usage. You can see a graph representation (in real time) of the air leakage in your system from start to finish. I started with an accumulated hole of approx. 6X6 inches and at the end it was reduced to about 1X1. I was skeptical because it is costly but the results were as promised. All of my registers are blowing more conditioned air and my Heat pump is cycling much less. They provided an accurate estimate consisting of time and money necessary to complete the job. They also provided a product that met all the results promised. While performing this all day evolution the crew was always courteous and professional. This is not snake oil. This stuff really works. money well spent.

-James H.

C
"The job was eventually completed satisfactorily. However, from the start we had trouble coordinating schedules. There was also some miscommunications on expectations" for what was to be done. And there was a miscalculation of the materials needed to do the job, so that an additional visit was required to complete the job. The price was very good, and the workmanship was also good, but the level of professionalism was not what I was expecting from someone who came so highly rated on this site.

-Barbara A.

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Local Articles in Hartford

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation Contractors in Hartford

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Above and Beyond Remodeling LLC

PO Box 8213
Manchester

Absolute Sparkle LLC

23 Willie Circle
Tolland

ACCURATE INSULATION LLC

33A STAFFORD AVE
Bristol

Ace Roofing and Siding

70 Chain Trail
Southbury

Aiello Home Services

PO Box 548
Windsor Locks

AK Carpentry LLC

19 Jude Rd
Plainville

Albana Roofing LLC

70 McWeeney Dr
Waterbury

Alberts Home Repair

44 Chasse Rd
Wolcott

Alcraft Inc

605 Washington Ave
North Haven

All Saints Remodeling LLC

135 Rockwell Abe
Bristol

AM Construction and Snow Removal

178 Quinnipiac St
Wallingford

America One Abatement Inc.

40 Atwater Street
New Haven

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

AMERICAN WINDOWS & SIDING

1131 Tolland Turnpike
Manchester

Amity Carpentry

PO 3624
New Haven

Andy's Home Improvement Center

32 Wintonbury Ave
Bloomfield

Apples to Apples Inc.

1204 Main Street
Branford

Arnold Company

60 Hedgehog Ln
West Simsbury

ARTitectual Builders LLC

47 Turner Ave
Torrington

Autumn Ridge Construction

29 Theodore St
Enfield

Bartlett Brainard Products Co

75 Talcott Rd
West Hartford

Bauhaus Construction

545 East Center Street
Manchester

Beard construction

25 pequot rd

Better Air

1265 John Fitch Blvd
South Windsor

Better Built Basements LLC

229 Christian Ln
Berlin

Bretonridge Builders LLC

South Glastonbury

Brown Roofing Co

PO Box 1171
Naugatuck

Buckland Home Contractor

48 Welch St
Plainville

Bulldog Roofing

33 Rhoda Lane
Bristol

Bullock Access, LLC

100E Pitkin Street
East Hartford

Castle Developers, LLC

1131 Tolland Tpke.
Manchester

CD BUILDERS INC

100 WEST RD
Ellington

Charles Abatement, LLC

91 Shelton Avenue
New Haven

CLIMATE PARTNERS

922 BRIDGEPORT AVE
Milford

Coastal Custom Wine Cellars

2405 Orchard Crest Blvd

Collins & Co.

48 Hockanum Blvd
Vernon

Connecticut Basement Systems

60 Silvermine Rd
Seymour

Connecticut Home Solutions

101 N Plains Industrial Rd Bld 1A
Wallingford

connecticutwindow

PO BOX 809
Somers

Contracting USA

100 Cold Spring Road
Rocky Hill

Creative Remodeling Solutions

189 SHAKER RD
Somers

CT Handyman Construction

80 Hillandale Rd
Danbury

ct roof pro

PO BOX 809
Somers

CTGutterPro, LLC

1563 Meriden Waterbury Tpke
Milldale

DANIEL N. FERRANTE PROFESSIONAL SERVICES, LLC

16 Scarsdale Road
West Hartford

Dave's Handyman Shop

9 Selden Hill Drive
West Hartford

dba D&DRenovations

206Elm Street #0293
New Haven

DFS In-Home Services

2505 Carmel Ave.

DiGiorgi Roofing & Siding Inc

33 Lancaster Dr
Beacon Falls

DITIORRE BUILDING & SERVICES

318 Elm St # 3
Meriden

DJS Building & Remodeling, LLC

909 Chestnut Hill Road
South Glastonbury

Don's Superior Home Improvements

295 East Cedar St.
Newington

Donald Sullivan and Sons

980 South Main Street
Plantsville

Dons Home Improvement

30 Nathan Hale Road
Coventry

DPMHANDYMANSERVICES, LLC

118 jude ln
Southington

Dr. Energy Saver by MacNaughton Builders

800 Prospect Hill Rd
Windsor

Dr. Energy Saver Connecticut

60 Slivermine Rd
Seymour

DRC BUILDING CONTRACTORS

64 HUCKLEBERRY HILL RD
Avon

DUPREY REMODELING

205 COOKE STREET
Plainville

East Coast Estimating

berkeley RD
Middletown

Eastern CT Residential

149 Airline Ave
Portland

Eco Energy Guard, LLC

9 September Way
Avon

ECS Aeroseal

519 Heritage Rd
Southbury

Elevate Construction

PO Box 331272
West Hartford

Energy ESC, LLP

PO Box 2361
Manchester

Everlast Construction LLC

49 Burtville Ave
Derby

FCL Painting & Powerwashing

194 Seaview Ave
Bridgeport

FERRARO'S PAINTING AND RESTORATION, INC

311 WASHINGTON AVE
North Haven

Final Touch Painting & Remodeling LLC

495 Westside Ln
Torrington

Forsley Enterprises, LLC

3 Emily Dr
Vernon

Garcias Painting & Handyman Services

480 North Main St.
Manchester

GG Home Improvements LLC

49 Stanley Dr
Glastonbury

Good Life Energy Savers LLC

50 Beaver Brook Rd
Danbury

Grade A Home Improvement LLC

490 Main St.
Middlefield

Green Energy Saver, LLC.

3 Lovely Street
Canton

HANDY DANS

121 METACOMET DR
Meriden

Handyworks Remodeling

50 Wild Life Dr
Wallingford

Harvey Building Products

221 Commerce St
East Haven

Harvey Industries

272 Woodlawn Road
Berlin

Heritage Kitchen & Bath Center Inc

254 Broad St
Manchester

Home Advancements LLC

125 W West Hill Rd
Barkhamsted

Home Care Service llc

116 Cottage Grove RD
Bloomfield

HOME DEPOT

656 RESERVOIR AVE
Bridgeport

home doctor/roofs r us

85 bradley ave
Meriden

Housesurgeons

142 Warner St
Hamden

IBX Services

186 Clinton B Fiske Avenue

J & J Construction

2402 Harbor View Drive
Rocky Hill

J & J Construction

2402 Harbor View Drive
Rocky Hill

J & L Custom Contracting LLC

118 Allen St
Terryville

J Corrigan LLC

1245 Farmington Avenue #3
West Hartford

J. R. Kennedy Remodeling

82 Sunset Pass
Wilton

JMBC Residential Carpentry

4 South Main Street #2017
Wallingford

John C Fiderio & Sons Inc

687 Broad St
Meriden

Johnson Home Improvement

12 Williams Cir
Suffield

JTek Painting

Po Box 314
Scotland

K.Z. Construction

55 Woodland Road
Lebanon

Kruse Home Improvement, LLC

33 Lufkin Lane, Bristol, CT 06010
Bristol

LaBelle Home Improvement

52 Oakland St
Bristol

Lady House Doctors

New Britain

Leander Anderson Home Improvement

112 Butternut Lane
Bristol

Linda Jones Home Improvements

421 Jackson Hill Road
Middlefield

Link Mechanical Services Inc

34 Walnut Street
New Britain

MASTER CARPENTERS LLC

394 Park Ave
East Hartford

Master Home Improvement LLC

12 congress street

Matt Como Carpentry

30 gorman street
Naugatuck

Mckenneys Construction, llc

4 Sherwood Rd
New Britain

Meticulous Renovating Concepts

65 Old Brooklyn Tpke
Windham

Mikes Home Improvement LLC

460 Miller Rd
South Windsor

Mr Fix It Roofing Company

293 Main Street
Hartford

MT Home Remodeling & Construction Contractors

268 Newington Road
West Hartford

New England Bldg Prods

45 Golden St.
Meriden

New England Conservation Services

15 Lunar Drive
Woodbridge

New Hope Carpentry

58 May Street
Fairfield

Newcastle Painting

67 Miller Road
Burlington

O'DONNELL BROS

17 DIVINITY ST
Bristol

OC Additions & Remodeling

59 Constitution St
Wallingford

ONE SOURCE Facility Maintenance

862 East Center Street
Wallingford

One Stop Home Repairs

721 Platt St.
Bridgeport.

Ortega's Home Repair

47 Madison Avenue

OT Builders, LLC

42 Belmont St.
Hartford

P D Remodeling

90 Humming Bird Drive
Northford

P. Torres Carpentry LLC

252 National Ave.
Waterbury

Parker's Painting & Home Improvement

135 Hobart St
New Haven

Peoples Product Inc

252 Hartford Ave
Newington

Peter L Brown Co

133 Hartford Ave
Granby

Precision Remodel & Design

16 Judson Lane
Farmington

Premier Contractor, LLC

PO Box 445
Manchester

Pro Hands Companies

21 W Main St
Waterbury

Pro Source LLC

504 Main St
Farmington

PSM Remodeling

244 Handel Road
East Hartford

Quality Built Basements

142 Pheasant Run
Newington

R K INSULATION CONTRACTORS INC

PO Box 260059
Hartford

R M BOURGOIN BUILDING LLC

355 FARMINGTON AVE
Plainville

R Pelton Builders

105 Clark Dr
East Berlin

Radiant Installs

133 Parker Street
Manchester

Ramirez Contractor

297 Ferry St
New Haven

RED ROOSTER CONSTRUCTION CO

19 ATWOOD PL
West Haven

Reicher & Sons Builders, Remodeling

11 Fountainhead Rd
Terryville

RL Contracting LLC

22 Pine St Suite 203
Plymouth

RNK Builders LLC

75 Coachlight circle

S&R HOME IMPROVEMENTS LLC

30 METTLER STREET
Woodbridge

Seamless Remodeling

24 East Ave #252
New Canaan

Sensible Home Products LLC

72 Carson Ave
Wethersfield

Servpro of Manchester/Bolton

540 N Main St
Manchester

Shoreline Spray Foam, LLC

P.O. Box 120583
East Haven

SM Welch Remodeling

16 Ogden Lord Road
Marlborough

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Specs

233 Ellington Rd
East Hartford

Spray-Tech Foam Insulation LLC

122 Spring Street
Southington

Sweeneys Contracting

589 E Main St
Meriden

The Great Handyman

86 Farmington Avenue
Farmington

The Roofing Store LLC

PO Box 294
Plainfield

Thomas Gianni & sons

1 Nutmeg valley road
Wolcott

Timwood Homes Ltd

2719 Berlin Turnpike
Newington

Top Level Inc

180 Wetherell St
Manchester

Total Mechanical Systems LLC

140 New Britan Ave
Plainville

TPC Contracting Services, LLC

122 Capewell Ave
Oakville

Trademark Enterprise

Po box 153
Wallingford

Tuscany Design Build Inc

37 Kaya Ln
Mansfield Center

U S Insulation Co

1897 Berlin Tpke
Berlin

U.S. Windows & Siding Wholesalers LLC

116 Bridgeport Ave
Milford

UNDER CONSTRUCTION CONTRACTORS

88 OLD BROADWAY W
North Haven

Valley Energy Co

PO Box 2127
Waterbury

Victory Energy Solutions

1 Hartford Sq
New Britain

Vista Home Improvement

2003 Riverdale Rd

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren L Jones Security

930 Garden St
Hartford

Weatherproof Insulation of CT, LLC

115 Bruce Avenue
Stratford

Weingast Jeremy

650 Farmington Ave
Hartford

West Hartford Windows

11 Owings Road
West Hartford

WHITE & KATZMAN PROPERTY SERVICES, LLC

111 ROBERTS ST
East Hartford

Wicked Home Improvements & Lawn Care

81B Spring St.
Vernon Rockville

Wildlife Strategies

PO Box 310865
Newington

Wildlife Strategies LLC

12 Pleasant St
East Windsor

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

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