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Local Articles in Harrisburg

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Angie's Answers


Hello - I hope my answer will help point you in the right direction.


The reason you're having a hard time getting clear information is because there are hundreds of companies saying their window is the best. There are probably millions of different features you can choose to have for your windows and in price ranges from $169-$1200 (per double-hung window).


I've been in the business for 15 years and have seen many different window products from many different dealers and manufacturers. This all comes down to: "what's important for you and your home?" If you want a strong warranty from a company who has a full-time service department to give you piece of mind and service your windows should needs be, or are you looking at only those companies who offer true wood interior windows that you can paint or stain to match the home decor? Whatever is your hot-button, then that's where you want to start.


I would recommend you first choose how you want your new windows to look. Wood-interior with vinyl clad is only offered by certain companies, while there is a vinyl woodgrain finish to give you similar results without the maintenance. If you're only looking for a white interior and don't want the maintenance, a fiberglass or vinyl window would be the best choice from what is offered in the market today (vinyl will be less expensive - not necessarily cheaper quality). If you are going to change out a window to a french door and a door to a window, then you WILL NEED to find a contractor with some carpentry experience. Some companies will tell you upfront that they do not handle those sorts of remodeling projects due to the complexity and time it would take to get it complete.


Unfortunately, we won't be able to personally help you with your project as we work in the New England Area. However, if you wish to talk further, please feel free to email me at: sven@ritewindow.com and I'll be happy to let you know our prices for what we offer so you can compare and hopefully find a similar company to do the work for you near the Austin area.




Get your roofer back out there.  Course of shingles above the window need to be pulled, self sealing flashing, drip caps, and counter and step flashing are going to be required here. 


This is a flashing issue as the window connects to the mansard roof surface. 


Condensation and a leak are two different and very noticeably different (i.e. volume) things.


Flashing and roofing on Mansards can be tricky but is sounds very much like a roofing issue. 


For a broken window (or leaking seal in multi-pane unit), for a standard roughly 2x3 foot window, can run from low of about $75-125 for single pane to more like $200-300 range for triple pane, depending on construction and any special ultraviolet or heat reflective coatings. If a removeable window unit, of course cheaper to remove it and take to replacement glass place then have them come out, measure glass size, order glass unit, then come back to install.


If taking in yourself, commonly they can do single-pane in an hour or two, but count on a week or so typically for sealed double or triple pane unit to come in, so you will have to seal the opening in the interim. That is an advantage of having them come out - they measure and determine type of unit on first visit and can seal with tape and plastic sheeting (if you have not already done that), then come back with new unit and install a week or two down the road - but you are not stuck with an opening in the wall for a long time.




Much easier to scratch and typically not as good a finished quality as compared to glass.


Benefits are the resistance to breakage as mentioned by LCD.  Any glazing shop should be able to re-create that panel. 


Thermal numbers look okay when looking at the NFRC.


Do you have any other data on them?  Air infiltration, Design Pressure, Visible Transmittance, and Condensation Resistance are all good evaluators.




Air infiltration rate is way high at 0.21.


It may look nice in person but the performance numbers are below average. 

If you are being sued and/or counter suing, then you should hire a lawyer.  While you can do small claims court and sue without a lawyer, the Contractor's insurance will provide him a lawyer to defeat you.  Plus, odds are good the Contractor has more court experience than the average Home Owner, especially if this is his standard opperating procedure.  If you go against a lawyer, you will lose, even if you are right (Saying the right thing at the wrong time is very bad in court rooms.  Get a lawyer who knows the processes).

Once you decide you are suing, there should be no further contact or access to the property with the contractor.  If you have already been told you are suing, you should stop all access to your property (you are allowing them to gather evidence AGAINST you.  Your lawyer may be able to reach an agreement outside of court to allow the contractor to fix the work within a specific time period, but even then make sure you are not in contact with the contractor.  Anything you say, will be turned against you ("The Home Owner said it was okay.")

A building official has no legal obligation in court; his job is safety and minimum construction requirements as allowed per Code.  He has no say over materials and methods, and cannot assess damage. (IRC doesn't have a requirement that the door you mention exceed 35", so he won't care it isn't 36" as an example).  What he CAN do is state if the work is unsafe or causing other conditions which are unsafe.  Let your lawyer decide; but it is not in your best interest to have the Building Offical inspect with the contractor.

To sue you need to show damages.  Get another contractor (get some references or hire an architect to help ensure you get what you need) to inspect the work and give an estimate to repair.  The amount the contractor(s) estimates becomes what you seek in court (plus court fees) from the contractor.  If his work caused problems, you should be suing, not sued.

Also, be aware that no door manufacturer makes an actual 36" door (as an example).  They each have their own frame sizes, so a "36 door" in reality will be 35 7/8" to 35 3/8".  Each door maker has slightly different sizes (go online, you can see Pella, Anderson, Kolbe-Kolbe, etc. have their actual sizes available for PDF downloads).  If you replace a Pella 36" with an Anderson's 36" they won't fit perfectly.  In fact, the different styles within the same manufacturer are sometimes even different.  The purpose of trim is to hide the gap between the wall and door frame, so your door may be perfectly fine in size and method of installation. 

When you have this work corrected (and for any future work) utilize the services of a lisenced Architect.  They will oversee the work, review requests for payments and document existing conditions and conditions found during construction to prevent the situation you are now in.  They will also ensure the proper permits are filed and the inspections called for.  Because they are a third party to the agreement, they can be the 'bad guy' and make the contractor perform, where you just have to pay the invoices they approve.  The contractor deals with the Architect (and vice versa) and you get the project you wanted. The cost of the architect would have been around $3,200 and is minimal compared to what you are dealing with now, the peace of mind is worth it and architects often find cost savings that go directly back to the Home Owner.  When you account for time alone, you will have spent more than this on just preparing and attending the court case.

Because this is headed to court, stop all communication with the contractor and get yourself counsel.  Good luck.

Egress Window Installers in Harrisburg

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

Access Basement Systems LLC

10 Marticville Rd.



Ageless Waterproofing Systems

833 c second st

Alpha & Omega Construction

10 Marticville Rd.

America's Choice Remodeling

3050 C Canby Street

Basement Waterproofing Solutions

1553 Ridgewood Rd.



Blue Mountain Builders

541 Brandt Ave
New Cumberland

BMK Construction

1098 Trail Road North

Bolger Design & Remodeling

53 W Main St

Bulloch Contracting

100 Coventry Cross Rd
Mount Wolf

Burkholder Home Repair

P.O. Box 2301



Catalfano Construction LLC

east willow st

CKM Construction

596 Edwards Rd

Cottrell Basement Waterproofing LLC

1120 S Pleasant Ave


69 N. 5th St.

Direct Building Supplies LLC

838 S 20th St

Dixon Family Home Improvements

340 W 1st St
Boiling Springs

DNM Contracting, INC

7389 Paxton St



East Shore Window & Door

2013 N. 6th Street

Five Star Contracting llc.

3825 Bonnymeade Circle

Fresh Start Construction, LLC

Derry St.

G P Harris Construction Inc

75 Goldmine Rd

GDW Builders

PO Box 363

H2Pro Restorations

243 Mine Bank Rd

Harvey Contractors LLC

210 Hunter Creek Dr

Install America

1353 Alleghenyville Rd

Integrity Home Renewal

46 schoolhouse rd
New Providence

Kidd Enterprise

P.O. Box 1259

Klawitter & Youkers Inc.

42 Beard Rd

Maxim Contractors

10387 Jonestown Rd



Mione Family Remodeling Inc

5811 Jones Town Rd

Omega Building Group, LLC

Emily lane
New Cumberland

PBS Installation

3146 Fulling Mill Rd

Pringle Electric and Building Services

394 S, Main Street
Pleasant Gap


1922 Daybreak Cir

R D Hackman & Sons

360 W Bainbridge St


Camp Hill

Ridge Builders

32 Middle Creek Rd

Russ Wilson & Co. Inc.

343 Wildwood Rd

Sholl Carpentry & Construction

2310 Bell Drive

Simply Results, LLC

203 S Spruce St

Solid Rock Remodeling, LLC

141 N Fileys Rd

Sycamore Builders LLC

1513 Main St
East Earl

Taylor Contracting

19 Burns RD
Spring Grove

The Repairman

971 E Canal Rd

Trout Squared Construction

955 Hummel Ave

Under Construction, LLC

PO Box 1282

Vinyl Window Wells

229 S. Groffdale Rd.

William Ferguson & Co., LLC

3633 Roundtop Rd

Your Remodeling Guys

3679 Concord Rd

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