Greensboro Mold Remediators

in Greensboro, NC

89
Mold Remediators are
in Greensboro

17
Mold Remediators in Greensboro
are top rated

A
Rated by
katrina S.
"Arrived on time, inspected the areas with mold, identified the problem and told exactly what he recommended for treatment and removal of mold. Answered all questions and provided advice" on further work to be done. Also found additional issue when sheet rock was removed that showed our tub was not fully supported. The mold was removed by removing sheet rock, carpet, and wood trim. Anti-microbial was applied and
vacuumed to clean up. Negative pressure ventilation was achieved through our bathroom fan (it was an easy way to do this since the walls were opened thru to the bathroom). He recommended we have a plumber check the toilet since the water that supported the mold growth appeared to be from a leak there. His job was the mold remediation only. We had a plumber fix the leak (a broken flange) and will have a handyman replace the sheet rock, trim and floor and get that tub supported.
B
Rated by
RICHARD S.
"This was a very good experience. The only thing that I liked least about them was that I needed a letter from them that says that I got the problem fixed for a possible future buyer" and it took them forever to get the letter to me. Besides that I liked how professional and informative they were.
C
Rated by
Georgia G.
"It was a shock to us on the day they told us they were coming out to bring a contract and just go over a few things; that they told us after seeing the third room."Oh this looks" like JUST a florring job, and we don't do that. It was left that
would provide the
back. name of their flooring contractor. Which we called and never called back. This co. was sent to us by our insurance, and they were in shock too. It cost us two weeks of waiting for these appointments, and then having to start over again.

Local Articles in Greensboro

removing black mold

Mold

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Many homes in humid climates are susceptible to mold growth on furniture, clothing and even structural walls if there is inadequate ventilation, says Belk. (Photo courtesy of Gold Coast Flood Restorations)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Long-term exposure to certain types of toxic molds can be catastrophic. One highly rated provider shares four easy tips to prevent mold from invading your home.

Most molds, when allowed to grow in abundance, are visibly seen in certain colors, says Cascone. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Teresa K. of Beachwood, Ohio)
Mold Testing & Remediation

Mold may be present in your home and affecting your life even if no actual mold is visible. Here are four things that may indicate you need mold remediation.

"While it’s entirely possible that you do have mold in your air ducts, such claims are also a common scare tactic used by some less-than-scrupulous air duct cleaning companies," Angie Hicks says.
Mold Testing & Remediation, Air Duct Cleaning

Do you have mold in your air ducts? Learn how to identify mold and remediate it, along with what you should expect to pay. Angie Hicks provides the answers.

Angie's Answers

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Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!
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Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?

 

Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?

 

Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:

 

- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.

 

 

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When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -

http://www.google.com/images?client=safari&rls=en&q=house+IR+scan&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ei=rhfRUci4F-TbigLghIHIAg&ved=0CDcQsAQ

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Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.

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Mold Removal reviews in Greensboro

F

Rating
BEWARE, BEWARE, BEWARE! At first this guy seemed to know what he was doing. I asked him to rid of mold, repair the leak and fix the wall. He abated the mold, did the worst tape job (wall install) I've ever seen. Also, his tiling skills are lacking. Didn't even bring a tile cutter. But most importantly he never fixed the leak that caused the mold in the first place! Letting us believe it was repaired, 3 months later, water damage appeared on our ceiling in the location he supposedly repaired. I tried contacting him and he continually avoided my calls, made several appointments to fix the leak and never showed up. Finally, after threatening him with a lawsuit, he sent another person to fix the leak on the roof. After all is said and done, $4,000 later, I have a sub-par bathroom. Spend your hard earned money with someone who knows what they are doing.
- Erin E.

All Mold Remediators in Greensboro, NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1ST AIDE RESTORATION, INC.

1221 RAIL STREET
Greensboro

3G construction

Burlington

A-Flood Control

PO Box 339

AdvantaClean of the Piedmont

1852 Banking St
Greensboro

AERUS

2864 Reynolda Rd
Winston Salem

Affordable Home Repairs

8401 Spicer Ln.
Stokesdale

BEK Paint Company Inc

1577 New Garden Rd
Greensboro

Bioclean Restoration Inc.

4157 Old Hillsborough Rd.
Mebane

Bizzy Bee Painting

336-479-2213
Winston Salem

Bridgeport Restoration Services

742 Park Lawn Ct
Kernersville

BROWN PEST CONTROL

4678 PATTERSON AVE
Winston Salem

C Williams Home Repair

278 Cow Palace Rd.
Lexington

Carolina Ductmasters

Winston Salem

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Carolina Restoration & Carpet Cleaning

7608 Stoneykirk Dr
Greensboro

Carolina Restoration Services

8160 Chapel Hill Rd
Cary

Cary Reconstruction Co LLC

2410 Reliance Ave
Apex

CENTRAL CAROLINA WATERPROOFING INC

3623 SINGLE LEAF CT
High Point

Crawlspace Doctor

6162 Loch Laural Ln
Raleigh

Disaster One Inc.,

3012 Patterson Street
Greensboro

Doss Restoration & Carpet Cleaning

201 Lexington Dr
High Point

Dr Energy Saver by Alert Construction

1206 E Wendover Ave
Greensboro

E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

EME INDUSTRIAL SERVICES LLC

1541 PLEASANT RIDGE RD
Greensboro

Environmental Solutions Group

338 N Elm St Ste 215
Greensboro

First Call Cleaning and Restoration

3205 NC 62 North
Burlington

Greg Tilley's Pressure Cleaning

3600 N Carolina 54
Chapel Hill

Guardian Duct Cleaning

1067 Trade St
Winston-Salem

Guardian Duct Cleaning

5756 Stewart St

Handy Mike

506 Hannah Mckenzie Dr
Greensboro

Healthy Technologies

1110 West Dodson Mill Road
Pilot Mountain

Home Contracting Services

57 Arbor Hill Place
Mc Leansville

HomeCheck Services Inc

717 S Sunset Dr
Winston Salem

House Doctors

3048 N Old Greensboro Rd.
High Point

Inspire Building and Design

143 N Main St
Kernersville

J.L. Williard Carpet Care

128 E State Ave
High Point

MARC'S ODD JOBS & HOME REPAIRS

3525 Lawndale Dr
Greensboro

MICROLAB NORTHWEST

7609 140Th Pl NE

MIDSTATE WATERPROOFING

125 Dove Meadows Dr
High Point

MiraMold LLC

PO Box 52376
Durham

Moldlab

2501 Mayes road suite #110

Nice and Green, LLC - Carpet Care Experts

1183 University Dr.
Burlington

PAUL DAVIS RESTORATION

1305 S PARK DR
Kernersville

Pest-X Exterminating

725 E Mountain St
Kernersville

Pillar To Post Inc

PO Box 107
Oak Ridge

Premium Painters

Norwalk St
Greensboro

Pure Maintenance of NC

P.O.Box 10193
Greensboro

PuroClean Restoration Services

2904 Lawndale Dr
Greensboro

QUALITY AIR SERVICES

2411 BINFORD ST
Greensboro

Rapid Recovery

4219 A. Edith Lane
Greensboro

RBM SERVICES

P.O. Box 485
Pleasant Garden

Regional Waterproofing Inc

PO Box 917
Zebulon

Remediation Solutions

1140 Nature Ln
Walnut Cove

Restor Inc

P.O.Box 4542
High Point

RESTORE/Advanced Cleaning Solutions

550 Peters Creek Pkwy
Winston Salem

ROLYN Companies

5706 FREDERICK AVE

Salem SteamPro

PO Box 1221
Welcome

Sasser Companies, Inc

7237 Pace Drive
Whitsett

SERVPRO OF GREENSBORO NORTH

2902 MANUFACTURERS RD
Greensboro

Servpro of High Point

336-101 Habersham Rd
High Point

Servpro of North Davidson County

124 Cotton Grove Rd
Lexington

Soggy Bottom Waterproofing

895 Hastings Hill Rd
Kernersville

Tar Heel Basement Systems

2910 Griffith Rd
Winston Salem

TBK HOME INSPECTIONS LLC

279 Erwin Rd.
Chapel Hill

Tedder Construction

2024 Pine Bluff St.
Greensboro

Terry-Lynn LLC

1596 Jennings Road
Statesville

Tile & Painting Solutions LLC

High Point NC
High Point

TONY WILLIARD CONSTRUCTION

1008 BROOKSTOWN AVE
Winston Salem

Townsend Restoration Service

7202 Brown Summit Rd
Browns Summit

WALKER CONSTRUCTION SVC INC

320 S ELM ST
Greensboro

Water Damage Restoration Service Greensboro

330 W Friendly Ave
Greensboro

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