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"Had a delayed response and wasn't able to come out until a day or two later; we ended up having to hire a different company because we had a clogged drain." They were very courteous over the phone and did not promise anything they could not have achieved. They were very honest and I would use them in the future if needed.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
It is usually cheaper to remove part of the ceiling below and patch it after the leak has been repaired.  Remember that water can travel before settling in one area, causing the spot you've seen.  Just because it is below the toilet does not mean that the toilet is the problem.  The cheapest option is to pull the toilet and check the floor around the wax ring to see if it has been leaking.  A new wax ring only costs a few dollars.  When was the last time you caulked the shower in that bathroom?  The water can leak around the corners or at the door (if you have one) and travel along the floor joists until it pools in a lower spot on the ceiling below, then seep through.  It could also be a seal at the drain of the tub or shower. 

I get a few calls a year for this sort of thing.  It's usually something simple but can be a nightmare to diagnose, especially if the problem is intermittent.  Start with the simple possibilities and use deductive reasoning to narrow the possibilities.  Before you do a lot of damage it may pay off to hire a reputable contractor to help you make sure you've exhausted all of the imple and more obvious possibilities.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Greensboro


n electician (very economical to correct the problem.Checked water pump switch pressure tank to see that all was working as designed. Discovered the problem was in a work breaker switch. Refered a
- Roland A.

The sink became clogged on Sunday evening while doing the dinner dishes. After working with the plumber's friend and trying to get the disposal to unclog the drain, I called
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and Drain (approximately 8:30 p.m. Sunday evening). My call was answered promptly by an employee (not just an answering service) who scheduled a visit the following morning. The service person "
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
" called when on the way and arrived within a half hour of the expected time. My assumption of a clogged trap was incorrect. The line was clogged further down and required the use of the power snake to clear the line. The whole job took no more than 1 1/2 hours from start to finish. I gladly paid the $85 charge and was thankful I had not tried to clear the problem myself. The service person was prompt, courteous and professional in every way. He was careful to clean up after himself.
- Thomas L.

Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
was very professional. He located the out take in my garage where he hooked up his machine. The whole process took about an hour. He cleaned up after he had cut out the roots in my pipes. I thought the price was very reasonable. I would call them again if I have another problem. I have no problem recommending them.
- Brenda R.

It worked well for about 3 weeks. This morning problem started again! Called once I came from work around 4p.m.,he came as soon as I called. He is here today taking the toilet apart to find that clog. He said that he couldn't do it from underneath the house since it was only one bathroom with the problem. Nice young man, very kind. Will cost me another $95 though; that's $240 in all. Hope this works! I think the first visit was a little too costly just to snake a pipe on the roof, but he had to work this time. I was misled by other reviews when I chose this plumber because most of them ranged his work at $65.00. He charged me over double that amount the first time. He gave me a thirty day guarantee this time though. If the work is good this time, I probably would call him again.
- Donna B.

Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
arrived on time for the appointment. He was very professional in appearance as well as behavior. The job was much more involved than I had originally indicated. He found problems under the house and sent pictures to my phone so that I could see the work that needed to be done. The price was very fair considering the amount to time and work involved. I would certainly use this company again as well as recommend it to others.
- Barbara E.

They were very responsive to my call. Even returned a call to me after hours. An appt. was set up for the next day and when they were running a little late they called with a new approx arrival time. They came at the appointed time and took care of the problem quickly. I will definitely be using
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
& Sons again
- Debbie B.

This is the second time I have used
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
& Sons. They were remarkable, clearly the best plumbers I have ever used in every way. First of all, I called Monday morning 9/16 to schedule a time to come out. I was expecting them to make an appointment not the day I called.
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
, the father, said he had just had a cancellation and would I like them to be out in an hour. And they did! They were right on time.
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
and his son
Greensboro Drain Cleaning Companies Provider Name Locked
came. They were professional, friendly, and explained everything they were doing throughout the work. And they cleaned up when they were done. I do a lot of renovations on a very old house so I'm used to working with contractors, electricians, plumbers, etc. After this experience, I would never use another plumber. Thanks guys!
- Joanie T.

Called this person for an estimate on drain replacement. Said he would stop by to see the job and get back with me - I never heard from him again. The job was a typical drain replacement in an older home in area he worked. It was slack of him to never reply.
- Nancy O.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Greensboro

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3G construction


5 star bathroom remodeling

2507 Sharpe Rd

A Plus Express Drain Cleaning

5626 Atwater Dr #9

Able Sewer & Drain Cleaning

1600 Brookhaven Mill Rd.

Above & Beyond Construction

100 Rockbridge Ct.

Ace Hardware Jamestown




Affordable Plumbing Heating & Air Inc

3704 Madison Ave

After 5 Plumbing, LLC

3348 Alma Ln.

Agnew's Plumbing and Repair

1042 sandy cross rd.

All & All Maintenance & Cleaning LLC

1457 Embler Rd

Allure Plumbing

20 Whitaker Pl

Alternative Plumbing

PO Box 1460

Ander Walker Plumbing, Inc.

319 Elam Ave

AR Home Improvements, LLC

216 Athens Drive
Winston Salem

Associated Plumbing Co

1441 Railroad St

B L Taylor

1404 Westridge Road

Bare Tech Plumbing

PO Box 39375

Big Chair Repair llc

001 Salem St

Birdie Home Improvements LLC

488 Long Perryman Rd

Bodenheimer Plumbing Service Inc

2860 Ridgewood Pk Dr
Winston Salem



Branson Plumbing & Solar

5608 Clarence Rd

Buchanan Service Co

665 Merry Hills Dr
High Point

Bud Matthews Service & Building Co Inc

545 Old Farrington Rd
Chapel Hill

CAC Plumbing LLC

PO Box 1015
Granite Corie

Carolina Plumbing Co

719 Mattress Factory Rd

Carolina Spa Repair

1530 Gideon Grove Church Rd



Chuck Keene Septic Tank Pmpng

6745 Coltrane Mill Rd

Clayton King Company

512 Massey Rd
Mount Airy

Craven Plumbing And Propane

PO Box 152

Crawford Home Improvements

3810 Clemmons Rd

Crystal Clear Plumbing Repair

5340 Cypress lane

Dease Plumbing LLC

107 Back Forty Dr
Winston Salem

Derek McBride

506 wray st

Doby's Plumbing And Repair

PO Box 868
West Jefferson

Dotson Plumbing

223 N Cherry St



Earl On Call A Handy Man Company

556 Brintle Rd


High Point



EW Property Maintenance

Serving the Triad
Winston Salem

Excel Plumbing Inc

PO Box 15722
Winston Salem

Ferg & Son Plumbing

1024 Payne Road
Rural Hall

Forsyth Rooter Service Inc

2960 Griffith Rd
Winston Salem

Friddle Mark Plumbing

PO Box 623

Garner Paint Company

PO BOX 20387

Gary Griffin and Son Plumbing Company INC.

2324 Wickham Rd


6905 Downwind Rd Ste G


Winston Salem

Guy P Harty Plumbing

3905 Walker Ave

Gwyn Electrical Plumbing Heating And Cooling

3941 Westpoint Blvd
Winston Salem



Hambright Plumbing

2534 Loeschs Ln p o box 44

Handyman Services

5090 Cobblestone Rd
Winston Salem

Hayden & Sons Plumbing

705 Lakedale Rd

HnH Plumbing Inc.

2618-A Battleground Ave #295

Hopkins Plumbing & Water Filtration, LLC

409 Fernway Drive

House Doctors

3048 N Old Greensboro Rd.
High Point


5412 Fieldbrook DR

Ironwood Property Solutions Inc

203 Perry Road

J.W. Smith Plumbing Inc.

5114 W Market St

jasuns handyman service

3203 ymca camp road

JD Plumbing, Heating, & Air Conditioning

4416 Bennett Memorial Rd.



Jimmys Plumbing & Repair, Inc.

1730 Jackson Lake Rd
High Point

JJ's Plumbing Y2K

3837 avera ave

Johnny's Plumbing Repair Service Inc

1026 N Main St

Johns Plumbing HVAC

PO Box 8496


302 Concord St

Jones Rooter Service

5519 Hill Farm Rd

Jordan Service Co

5252 Bedrock Rd

JW Smith Plumbing Inc

5114 W Market St

K's Plumbing

Mount Airy


PO BOX 328

Ken's Construction

1 Coltsfoot Ct

Laddie Co

1655 Crawford Rd

Leonard Power Vac & Home Improvement

5950 Skylark Road

Les Plumbing

407 Edwardia Dr

Lineberry and Company

PO Box 53

Liquid Assets Plumbing Inc

PO Box 18502

Lorrie Long Realty

P.O. Box 491
Pleasant Garden


1140 Toulon Ave

Lynch Plumbing Inc

508 Rock Cliff Ct
Winston Salem


Rural Hall

Martinez drywall and paint

306 E Clemmonsville Rd
Winston Salem

Master Plumbers of NC

PO Box 570

Mega Plumbing Services

617 W. Elm Street

Model Plumbing Company

7519 New Cut Rd

Mr Rooter Preferable Plumbing

2966 S church street

Personal Plumber LLC

12162 Shiloh Dr

Pete Wall Plumbing Co

835 Winston St


1013 Twyckenham Dr

Pierce Plumbing

PO Box 6273
High Point

Platinum Plumbing

200 Pomona Drive

Plumbing Professionals

5007-A Lawndale Dr

Precision Plumbing

5327 Vickrey Chapel Road

Pro Plumbing Heating & Air

446 Teebo Rd

Pro Touch Handyman and Painting Services

700 Cranbrook St.

R W Billingsley & SonsInc

806 Way St

R&R Plumbing

7204 Stinson Hartis Rd
Indian Trail

Randell McLendon's Plumbing Co.

2966 S. Church St.


P.O. Box 485
Pleasant Garden

Real American Services

4340 river birch loop

Rob & Sons Sewer and Drain

1330 Wiley Lewis Rd

Root 24

895 Calindia Wy.



Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1319 Mount Ulla Hwy.

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

8820 Midway West Rd

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1409 Boulder Ct

Russell Home Improvement

4008 White Pine Dr

SesCon Inc.

2001 Janell Dr

Sink Plumbing & Electric Co

2814 S. Main St.
Winston Salem

Sloan Plumbing

225 Forest Dr

Stanton Plumbing & Maintenance

PO Box 77702

Stephen's Plumbing Service

2002 Lancey Dr


Winston Salem

T&T Rooter Service

4906 Thornbrook Ln
Winston Salem

Tedder Construction

2024 Pine Bluff St.

The Plumbing Service Company

305 Pineview Dr


4675 US HIGHWAY 64 E

Vortex Drain Cleaning

252 Dover Circle


5400 Audrey Rd.

Webster & Sons Plumbing, Inc.

514 N. Main Street



WT Murphy Plumbing Co

412 Shambley Rd

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