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" did a great job - prompt, professional, and efficient. I had a huge crack in my sewage stack and it was leaking through the wall into the" basement. The plumbers showed up immediately the next morning, diagnosed the problem by carefully opening up sections of the wall, and were able to replace a large, cracked section of the stack - all by noon, and for a great price! I would definitely recommend and use them again.

-Michael W.

"I really don't understand the problems I have experienced with the providers I have found on Angie's List. I thought I would have a better experience overall." This company did not even show up for the appointment and when I called I could only leave a message on an answering machine. I would definitely not recommend this company to anyone. It appears that I am not the only person who has had problems with this company. I do not understand why Angie's List allows companies like this to be in their system. They are helping these non-reputable companies on unsuspecting customers. Shame on Angie's List.

-John V.

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Local Articles in Grand Rapids

Sink and plumbing

How to Avoid Common Plumbing Scams

Here are four of the most common plumbing scams to watch out for and how to avoid them.

Plumber working on toilet


When you need a plumber, especially for an expensive project for which you have time to plan, make sure you hire one who is fully qualified and licensed in your state. A plumber may be an apprentice, a journeyman or a highly qualified master plumber, depending on the level of training and experience.

home inspector in the attic (Photo by Photo by Sara Cozolino)

As a home seller, there's nothing more nerve-wracking than waiting for the results of the buyer's home inspection.

glass of water
Water Softeners

Most people know they have hard water by the residue left on their dishes or shower head.

avoid frozen water pipes

Worried about your pipes freezing due to bitter cold weather? Check out these pro tips on preventing frozen pipes, and learn what you can do if they freeze.

Plumbers check bathroom insulation

Guarding your home's plumbing from the elements and decay is a fairly simple and affordable process.

Inspiration & Ideas

gas fireplace soaker tub luxury bathroom
bathroom with brown cabinets and mosaic tile backsplash.
bathroom remodel
Kohler's Levity shower door is a frameless bypass shower door. (Photo courtesy of Kohler)
kohler frameless shower door

Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.


Plumber reviews in Grand Rapids


Called with a slow draining tub problem. was out on vacation, but took my call and gave me some practical advice on how I could likely remedy the problem on my own, and gave me the name of another plumber he recommended in his absence.
- John B.

The men were on time and although the job took twice as long as projected, the final cost did not change from the estimate. Everything works great.
- Doug A.

Efficient and great value for money. and his team work to an exceptional service level. Very responsive at returning phone calls, and quick to get problems fixed. Highly recommend.
- William T.

Provider arrived approximately one hour after my first call to the company. He solved my problem, and cleaned up the mess the standing water had made (including taking trash out) within about 45 minutes
- Sarah M.

The plumber that sent out on the call was not one of their plumbers - he actually worked for a different company. He was excellent, honest, and professional and I was extremely impressed. I would happily contract with this plumber again - but through his other company as I thought 's prices were ...More high. It turned out that my drain problem was a really fix that took less than 15 minutes, but the rate for any call outside of working hours with this company is $300.
- Melissa T.

My garbage disposal stopped working and the pipes under the sink started gushing water. I immediately searched Angie's List for plumbers and read all reviews. I found a Big Deal coupon for $250.00 for 2 hours of labor for . Their reviews were good so I called for an appointment and was very, very disappointed that they ...More didn't have one right away. However, as it turned out, it was worth the wait because the plumber, , was punctual, efficient and very professional. For example, he took away the old disposal, which was a huge relief! He apologized for being late, even though he arrived at 8:40 am and the appointment time was "between" 8-10. was pleasant and gave me a $20.00 credit of the $250.00 I paid because it didn't take 2 hours to complete the work. I will definitely use them again if if I have other plumbing issues and when I buy the new dishwasher.
- Gwendolyn R.

I had been trying for a few days to unclog the drain myself. I have very limited plumbing expertise but I wanted to see what I could do before I hired the big guns! Needless to say I was quite unsuccessful. So I called . It was a couple of days before they were able to send someone out but the gentleman arrived early, laid ...More down the proverbial cloth and got right to work. He snaked that drain like no ones business!! I was very grateful.
The $60 trip fee wasn't the greatest but I haven't called a plumber in so long and that may be an industry standard at this point. Other than that I was happy with the final cost.
Very professional experts. I would most certainly use them again.
- Trevor H.

and I researched solutions for our stinky hot water. An Active Anode seemed to be the solution. showed up the day after I called and performed a pretty quick and high quality installation.
- Rick S.

Plumbers in Grand Rapids

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24/7 Plumbers in Grand Rapids

900 Division Ave
Grand Rapids



A Cap Plumbing Services

2786 Holton Whitehall Rd
Twin Lake

A thru Z Plumbing LLC

3044 Cottage Ct
Cedar Springs

A-Cook's Plumbing Heating & Cooling

4000 Alpine Ave. NW
Comstock Park


533 44TH ST SW
Grand Rapids

All About Heating & Cooling LLC

4804 W Muskrat Rd

All Area Plumbing LLC

1915 Pinegrove Dr.

All-Flo Plumbing

2130 Three Mile Rd. NE
Grand Rapids

Alpine Plumbing

4990 Biddeford Dr NW
Comstock Park

Beckett Home Improvement

1348 Front Ave NW
Grand Rapids

Bender Maintenance and Home Improvement

2525 East Paris Ave SE
Grand Rapids

Bergsma Plumbing LLC

PO Box 291

BHL Homes

4722 50th St SE
Grand Rapids


Grand Rapids


Grand Rapids


4160 40th Ave.

Buer Well Drilling Inc

239 E Main St SE

Butts Home Repair

4896 Sequoia Dr. SE
Grand Rapids

Cardinal Remodeling & Design LLC

1677 Gentian Dr SE
Grand Rapids

Cascade Plumbing & Mechanical

1443 Riverton Ave SE
Grand Rapids



CKL Construction LLC

1501 Hidden Creek Cir Dr
Grand Rapids


4265 Lincoln Rd.

Compass Remodeling

724 32nd St SE

Complete Flooring & Interiors

1116 Plainfield Ave NE
Grand Rapids


Grand Rapids

Custom Upgrades, LLC.

747 44th St SW




Grand Rapids

Diverse Contracting LLC

4486 Burgis Ave.

Diversified Home Services LLC.

756 Rusty Dr.S.E.
Grand Rapids

Doctor Rooter

908 Orchard Ave

DuraFinish Inc

3045 Broadway Ave SW



EverDry Waterproofing of Grand Rapids

5273 Division Ave S


Grand Rapids

Flooring America

900 44th St SW

G R Metro Plumbing LLC

1918 Rogue River Rd NE


1588 Lori ln.
Grand Rapids

Genzink Plumbing Inc

2085 112th Ave

Godwin Plumbing Inc.

3703 S Division Ave.
Grand Rapids

Godwin West Hardware & Plumbing

1639 Chicago Dr SW

Grand Rapids Plumbing

7125 Headley St SE #931

H & H services LLC

10770 Edgerton Ave.

Handyman Scott

P.O. Box 307

Herrema & Sons Plumbing

2691 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

Hoffman Plumbing

o-13427 Kenowa

Holmes Home Improvement

533 Lane Ave NW
Grand Rapids


4646 28TH ST SE
Grand Rapids

Home Maintenance Service

5555 Greenboro Dr SE
Grand Rapids



Hubble Construction

3337 Remy


Grand Rapids

HWC Home Works Corporation

2010 Porter St SW
Grand Rapids

Jacobsen Remodeling Inc

401 Hall St SW
Grand Rapids

Jacobson Heating & Cooling

3303 Eastern SE
Grand Rapids

Joe's Clean- Up Service LLC.

1621 richmond nw
Grand Rapids

Jones Construction and Consulting

963 Knapp Street NE
Grand Rapids

Jotto Construction & Masonry

3740 Wilson Ave SW


Grand Rapids


Grand Rapids

Kellermeier Plumbing

10427 Courtland Dr. NE

Kentwood Plumbing & Heating Inc

3411 32nd St SE
Grand Rapids




Grand Rapids

Max Plumbing

4288 Clay Ave SW
Grand Rapids

Max Plumbing, Supply & Repair

502 60th St
Grand Rapids

McDonald Plumbing

7791 Eastern Ave SE
Grand Rapids

Meticulous Builders

2430 Bayne Rd
Twin Lake

Mid State Plumbing & Contracting LLC

5081 Cherry Valley Rd

Midwest Heating & Cooling

1625 Walker NW
Grand Rapids

Modernistic Carpet Cleaning

821 Wakefield


7221 Davies Dr NE

Mr. Handyman of Greater Grand Rapids

3850 29th St SE Suite C
Grand Rapids

Mr. Rooter Plumbing of GR

900 Pannell Ave NW
Grand Rapids


5195 Marshall St


5995 12 Mile Rd NE

Oberlin Plumbing

11719 N. Lakeview Rd

Odd Job Todd

2327 Greenview Drive SW

On Call Plumbers in Grand Rapids

2851 Charlevoix Drive SE
Grand Rapids


PO Box 557

Paul J Sommerdyke Plumbing Inc

1011 Grandville Ave Sw
Grand Rapids

Peter Somerdyke Plumbing

3555 32nd St
Grand Rapids

Petersen Plumbing Inc

1610 Coit Ave NE
Grand Rapids


50 W 3rd St

Plumber's Portable Toilet Servcie

710 Industrial Dr

Popeye Rays Paint And More

1354 Vineland ct se
Grand Rapids

Preferred Homes

6132 S Division Ave
Grand Rapids

Prestige Home Improvement

429 West Mill Street

Professional Home Improvements Inc

3955 W River Dr NE
Comstock Park



Ralph David Builder

446 135th Ave


2479 152nd Ave

Reliable Vendors

1438 Rathbone S.W.
Grand Rapids

Retired Master Plumber

7701 Jonagold Dr SE
Grand Rapids

Rockwood Construction Inc

157 W Division St

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

4393 Clay Avenue SW




316 Bradford St NE
Grand Rapids

Scotts Plumbing Drain Rescue

10690 summit ave

Sheely Plumbing Inc.

8151 McCords Ave SE

Sikma Construction Services LLC

2300 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids

Somerset Painting & Professional Improvements

647 S Spinningwheel Ln
Bloomfield Hills

Standale Interiors

4046 Lake Michigan Dr NW
Grand Rapids

TaylorMade Handyman Service

4432 16 Mile Rd. NE
Cedar Springs

Terry Thompson Construction LLC

3786 Ravine Vista Dr SE
Grand Rapids

Terver Services

611 franklin
Grand Rapids

The Service Professor Inc

4770 50th Street SE
Grand Rapids

Thompson Well Drilling

12300 Stultz

Total Interiors

491 Houston St


84 W ASH
Cedar Springs

Vander Hyde

1058 Scribner Ave NW
Grand Rapids


5622 Division Ave S
Grand Rapids

Wahlfield Drilling Co Inc.

4449 Westshire Dr
Comstock Park

Wallside Windows Inc

27000 Trolley Industrial Dr

Whitney Electric & Plumbing

3120 Kenyon Ln


Grand Rapids

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