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A
"The provider performed a review of cracks in my basement floor. They started as hair line cracks and have grown over time. The engineer was prompt and professional." He answered all of our questions. The assessment gave us peace of mind regarding the integrity of our foundation. The assessment did not provide any type of written summary. A brief statement regarding his findings would have been nice. A FULL detailed report is available. The fee for the full report is an additional $350.00. We may decide to purchase the report within 30 days.

-barbara W.

A
"Mr.
had come out before but didn't see the need to go under the house the first time and just told us it was normal settling that we" were experiencing. (we've lived in this house over 31 years and it was built about 30 years before that. When we found out that another service provider cut 2 holes in 2 joists, we were very concerned as this was not a compliant way to install dryer vents. Mr
did go under the house and saw the joists and said that the holes would have to be bigger to do any damage, but if we were ever going to sell the house, support reinforcement would need to be made.

-MARY ANN K.

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Local Articles in Fort Lauderdale

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Fort Lauderdale

A

Rating
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
is a rare breed in the construction industry. He is knowledgeable, affordable and most importantly HE CARES! I have dealt with numerous home inspectors & GCs regarding this issue and no one has taken better care of us and actually figured out the issue like
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. We had been quoted upt to 20k in
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
costs and
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
got right in there and went up on the roof and explained everything to us and actually figured out that we didn't need to put in a costly pump system to deal with the water inside, we could make some changes to our exterior to remedy the issue. Not only was he flexible, affordable and smart, he was also just a really nice friendly guy. I would highly highly recommend to anyone who is getting quotes from General contractors to invest in getting an professional engineer like
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
over to their home in order to give true sound advice. As well, I wish I could go back in time and have hired him to inspect our home BEFORE we bought it.
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
, his receptionist, is also a warm and professional dynamite.
Thank you!
- Eric R.
A

Rating
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
is experienced and knows what they are doing. They mostly followed the plans that were provided to them, and their work is solid. There were some issues with communication.

Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
(business end of the operation) &
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
(on site supervisor) were a real pleasure to work with.
- James B.
F

Rating
This was a disappointing experience from start to finish. While they delivered the plans in the promised time frame, we spent more
than an hour driving to pick up the plans, only to find out that they didn't include a 5-foot offset for the parking pad from our property line, which is required by the village. This is something
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
should have known to include. We asked them to redraw the plans, but the second set of plans didn't include the dimensions of the parking pad, which resulted in a delay in the approval process with our village. Then the plans were rejected by the village engineer over concern that not moving the existing draining would ultimate lead to freezing water underneath the parking pad, which would ruin the concrete. This is something our concrete contractor confirmed and, again, something
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
should have known to address in our plans without prompting. So we had to go back a third time to ask for changes to the plans. Lastly, they sent us a "second notice" on our final invoice, even though we paid it back when we picked up our plans. In summary, nearly every aspect of this project was screwed up -- the engineering, the drawing of the plans and the billing. We would not hire them again, nor would we refer them to anybody we know.
- Jenifer G.
F

Rating
As you can see from the other reviews here, avoid this guy at all costs. I contacted him mid August for a
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
plot plan and he said he could do it quickly. I then spent a couple weeks contacting the guy to deliver the plan. Our last conversation, he was extremely offensive. He cursed at me and made rude comments so I fired him. He acts like he is doing you a "favor" to take your project.and then have you chase after him to produce nothing. Totally unprofessional and arrogant.
- Michael V.
A

Rating
The specific representative was
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
Hull, Professional Engineer. He was courteous, professional, and thorough and, to the point, provided an analysis which saved us a lot of money. The written report included appropriate photographs, a description of the structure of the house (and of its integrity), and recommendations with regard to how to repair the foundation wall to prevent the intrusion of water in the future.
- Ernest C.
N

Rating
Mr.
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
pointed out exactly what the problems were and how to remedy each problem. He carefully explaining exactly what to do and assured me that everything would be detailed in the report, which he said that he would finish for me over the weekend and get back to me the following Monday.
- paula W.
A

Rating
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
arrived on time and started taking meaurements around the house. He was very professional and personable. When he completed his review of the house he sat with me and went over his findings so that I understood. He provided a hard copy of the evaluation in the mail and emailed me a copy.
- Margaret H.
A

Rating
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was very knowledgeable and helpful. He patiently answered all of our questions, and had interesting insights about the history of our house. The inspection cost considerably less than other companies quoted us, and we found
Fort Lauderdale Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
pleasant to work with. Would highly recommend!
- Eliza B.

Structural Engineers in Fort Lauderdale

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3 Bid Solutions

4715 NW 113 Terrace

A & G Retail Maintenance

11890 SW 8 St
Miami

A SEAWALL INSPECTION SERVICE INC

2000 S Ocean Dr Apt 1007
Fort Lauderdale

ABTECH ENGINEERING INC

10396 W State Road 84 Ste 108
Fort Lauderdale

ACES ENGINEERING INC

211 SW 2ND ST
Fort Lauderdale

ACOUSTI ENGINEERING CO-FL

500 SW 21ST TER
Fort Lauderdale

Adhesives Technology Corp

450 East Copans Rd
Pompano Beach

Aguirrel LLC

11258 SW 90 Lane
Miami

Alpha South Construction

1101 NE 214 STREET

American Design Engineering Construction, Inc.

2853 Executive Park Drive
Weston

AQP Construction, Inc.

2719 Hollywood Blvd.
Hollywood

AQUARIUS BUILDING

7700 NW 163 ST
Hialeah

AQUARIUS USA INC

100 NE 3RD ST
Fort Lauderdale

ARCHITECTOLOGY

3304 Southeast Fifth Street
Pompano Beach

Asher Contractor, Corp

8540 Nw 188th Ter Apt 2404

BEC GROUP PUBLIC ADJUSTERS

3701 N COUNTRY CLUB DR
Aventura

Black Marlin Builder's, Inc.

4316 Broward Blvd
Fort Lauderdale

BOHLER ENGINEERING

2301 SE 17TH ST
Fort Lauderdale

BOHLER ENGINEERING

1000 CORPORATE DR
Fort Lauderdale

BOTEK THURLOW ENGINEERING INC

3409 NW 9TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale

BRAVO DELTA ENGINEERING

260 SW 32ND CT
Fort Lauderdale

BROWARD ENGINEERING ASSOC

409 NE 29TH ST
Fort Lauderdale

BRYNTESEN STRUCTURAL ENGINEERS

3045 N FEDERAL HWY 80
Fort Lauderdale

Built Right Roofing

500 South Australian Ave.
West Palm Beach

CALLENBERG ENGINEERING INC

4130 SW 28th Way
Fort Lauderdale

Century Claims Management

4301 S Flamingo Road
Fort Lauderdale

CHAIBAN ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS

2787 E OAKLAND PARK BLVD
Fort Lauderdale

Champion Foundation Repair

8504 E Adamo Dr
Tampa

Charles E. Culpepper, PE

801 Brickell Bay Dr
Miami

CMC CLAIM CONSULTANTS, INC.

8906 SW 129 TERRACE
Miami

CMC Florida Investment Construction

10041 SW 42nd Terrace
Miami

COLUMBIA ENGINEERING SVC

13800 NW 14th St Ste 130
Fort Lauderdale

COMPLETE WELDING AND FABRICATION

PO Box 22253
Fort Lauderdale

Concord Engineering

219 NE 35th St
Miami

CONCRETE RESTORATION-DANIELLO

2708 N AUSTRALIAN AVE
West Palm Beach

Construction by Design EG

16026 SW 66 Terrace
Miami

Construction Concierge Group CCG

1000 5th Street
Miami Beach

Contractor Watchdog

13326 SW 28th street
Fort Lauderdale

COSTA SOL CONSTRUCTION

896 SW 70 AVE
Miami

Cueto Engineering

4967 SW 74th Ct
Miami

D'AVILA & ASSOCIATES SERVICES, INC.

680 East 49th St
Hialeah

DC Group Construction

10135 SW 77th Ct
Miami

DELTA GROUPS ENGINEERING INC

1501 NW 108TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale

DESIGN ENGINEERING CONTRACTORS

1580 SAWGRASS CORPORATE PKWY
Fort Lauderdale

Dominic Rupolo P.E. INC

P.O Box 610858
Pompano Beach

Douglas Wood Associates, Inc.

2100 Ponce De Leon Blvd Ste 1020
Coral Gables

Eclipse of Miami LLC

934 N. University Drive
Pompano Beach

EE&G

5751 Miami Lakes Dr
Miami Lakes

Element Construction Group

PO Box 141131
Coral Gables

EMA Consult Engineers, Inc

5250 Las verdes Cir

ENG SOLUTIONS

8170 SW 29TH CT
Fort Lauderdale

ENVIRONMENTAL CONSULTING TECH

550 W Cypress Creek Rd Ste 170
Fort Lauderdale

ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROL INC

916 NW 6TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale

Florida Impact Windows

5453 NW 24th Street
Margate

Floridian Property Consultants

5722 S Flamingo Rd
Cooper City

Ford Builders Inc

2426 SE 17th St
Fort Lauderdale

GLK Construction

921 SW 23rd Ave
Fort Lauderdale

GREAT HORIZON CONTRACTORS CORP.

10763 NW 83rd TERR
Miami

Green Shell Consulting LLC

11332 NW 44th St
Coral Springs

GREENMAN-PEDERSEN

2195 N ANDREWS AVE
Fort Lauderdale

HILLMAN ENGINEERING INC

2241 NW 22nd St
Pompano Beach

HNTB

5100 NW 33RD AVE
Fort Lauderdale

Holland Engineering, Inc

3900 Hollywood Blvd
Hollywood

HUBY'S ENTERPRISES INC

1820 NW 32ND CT
Fort Lauderdale

INDUSTRIAL DIESEL INC

2211 SW 31ST ST
Fort Lauderdale

Innovative Solutions Construction

1830 Radius Dr
Hollywood

INTERRYGAL ENGINEERING INC

3100 W STATE ROAD
Fort Lauderdale

JACOBS ENGINEERING GROUP INC

1100 LEE WAGENER BLVD
Fort Lauderdale

JAMES M MONTGOMERY INC

490 SAWGRASS CORPORATE PKWY
Fort Lauderdale

JIREH Construction Services

7458 NW 178 Ter
Hialeah

John's Handyhand Carpentry

2511 Taft St
Hollywood

JS Construction 2 LLC

18495 South Dixie Hwy.
Miami

Kbms construction

15002 SW 143rd Ct
Miami

KEITH & SCHNARS

6500 N ANDREWS AVE
Fort Lauderdale

LA CASA CONSTRUCTION, INC.

11629 SW 51st Ct
Fort Lauderdale

LAKDAS-YOHALEM ENGINEERING INC

2211 NE 54TH ST
Fort Lauderdale

LEADING TECHNOLOGIES

2950 GLADES CIR
Fort Lauderdale

Lean Construction

2745 SW 27 Terrace
Miami

LEMARTEC ENGINEERING & CONSTR

1900 NW 21ST AVE
Fort Lauderdale

Litzs Fixes

333 N Ocean Dr

Lord General Contractors Corporation

Post Office Box 99
Indian Rocks Beach

MALCOLM PIRNIE INC

1425 S ANDREWS AVE
Fort Lauderdale

Mar Design Group, Inc.

9357 Fointainebleau Blvd.

MAR INC

4846 N UNIVERSITY DR
Fort Lauderdale

MASTER CONSTRUCTORS & ASSOC

3500 Galt Ocean Dr
Fort Lauderdale

MATCO ASSOCIATES INC

4131 SW 47TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale

MC CAFFERTY BRINSON CONSLTNG

4050 W BROWARD BLVD
Fort Lauderdale

MD Ward Construction

3229 NE 5th Ct
Pompano Beach

Merrick Construction Group Inc.

9630 SW 103 Avenue
Miami

Mhendaz General Contractors

2061 Renaissance blvd
Miramar

MONTGOMERY WATSON AMERICAS INC

490 SAWGRASS CORPORATE
Fort Lauderdale

MURRAY & ASSOCS

4101 RAVENSWOOD RD
Fort Lauderdale

My Shipping Containers Inc

13850 NW105th Ave
Hialeah

Noble Development Corporation

8150 NW 53rd Street, #421
Miami

Peak Solar LLC

1021 HILLSBORO MILE PH 6

Phoenix Construction USA

2899 Collins Avenue
Miami Beach

Pinecrest Construction

13326 SW 28th St
Fort Lauderdale

PJ Basso Construction, Inc.

7818 SW 102nd Ln.
Miami

Proactive Claim Solutions, Inc.

11767 S Dixie Highway #108
Pinecrest

R K BUSHER ENGINEERING INC

4800 SW 64th Ave
Fort Lauderdale

Rosco Holdings Inc

343 N Country Club Blvd
Boca Raton

RUSSELL ENGINEERING INC

2530 SW 36TH ST
Fort Lauderdale

SALANI ENGINEERS & GEN CONTR

14219 SW 125TH AVE
Miami

Souffront Construction Inc

135 Weston Road Suite
Weston

SOUTH ATLANTIC CONTROL

1613 NW 5TH AVE
Fort Lauderdale

SRD ENGINEERING

5300 NW 33RD AVE
Fort Lauderdale

Structural Design Inc.

13014 S.W. 120 Street
Miami

Suncoast Corp. Builders & Developers

1852 Hammocks Blvd
Coconut Creek

Suncoast Nursery & Tiki Hut

17350 SW 236 St
Homestead

TARF TECH ENGINEERING INC

8400 N UNIVERSITY DR
Fort Lauderdale

TECHNISOURCE

100 W CYPRESS CREEK RD
Fort Lauderdale

Teycosa LLC

PO BOX 266405
Fort Lauderdale

The Audio Bug

3800 Hillcrest Dr. Apt.102
Hollywood

The Combined Group

7344 SW 48 ST
Miami

Total Care Insurance Repair, Inc.

25154 Lahore Lane
Punta Gorda

TST Development Corporation

4219 Cherrywood Ct
Weston

U.S. Structures Inc

4444 SW 71st Ave
Miami

Universal Home Remodeling,Inc.

2828 N University Drive
Sunrise

Universal Spray Foam

Coral Springs

USA Total Security LLC

13250 SW 128th St
Miami

Vasile Elevator

2120 Fletcher Street, Suite 2
Hollywood

Vogel Construction

2001 NW 15th Ave Bay 103

Wingerter Laboratories, Inc.

1820 NE 144th Street
North Miami

WPR CONTRACTING INC

1220 Melissa Ln
Davie

Yapi Group

8306 Mills Dr.
Miami

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