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C
"He didn’t actually check every outlet, even thought he said he would. He did quote me some prices to replace one electrical box. I was not there when he did" the inspection, my wife was; He showed up to do the inspection. I only talked to him on the phone about the price. The price was quite high.

-Don A.

A
"
was a total champ he retired a new fixture and retro'd the old pieces into it so that all my fixtures would match (the vendors new fixture" was different from the old) Anyway he figured it all out like a pro. He is so easy to work with, clean and efficient. I wish I had found
three years ago when I moved here. All I have met are terrible tradespeople who have not had my best interest at hand.

-PAUL F.

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Local Articles in Fort Lauderdale

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall
Electrical

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)
Electrical

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Fort Lauderdale

A

Rating
It went really good. I had 2 ceiling fans and thirteen can lights to be replaced plus some miscellaneous items needing to be addressed (a bad switch plate, a new outside plug, a line roofer had cut and hadn't repaired properly).
I was impressed with Nick's methodical approach. After determining no parts were missing or broken in the materials I had supplied (fans and can light replacements) he got to work. It was immediately apparent he knew what he was doing. When he finished he not only made sure everything was working properly he walked me thru and made sure all items had been done to my satisfaction.
The Deal was for 8 hrs. and there was some time left. Nick volunteered he would be available for any future work to make up the leftover time.
- Jeanette C.
A

Rating
It went great and far exceeded my expectations. I assumed someone would come take a quick look and recommend a hundred things I don't need, but it was the total opposite. I can't say enough good things about how polite, professional and informative Nick was. He not only did a complete inspection, he educated me and made sure I understood how every piece of the electrical system works. My confidence in seeking professional services for my home has been restored and
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
definitely has my business going forward.
- Christopher M.
A

Rating
Raf Simonowsky, the master electrician, is very responsive to inquiries and is quick to reply to messages, etc. He spent considerable time working out options, such as increasing the underground power supply to the house, which we opted not to do for a variety of reasons including cost. The only rough patch involved my expectations for the appearance of the finished result and I don't think Raf was upfront about the need to cut a larger hole in the wall (which was in a visible place in my kitchen) in order to install the new panel. After the new panel was installed (very competently, I believe) a half inch gap existed above the panel cover exposing the electrical cables in the wall. Raf wanted me to believe that this was standard procedure and couldn't be helped, but had I been aware ahead of time I could have arranged to have the gap properly filled at the time the work was done. I wouldn't have had a problem with it if I was expecting it - the work was professional, the appearance just seemed to fall short. The contract did state: "All drywall repair if any shall be done by others. All painting if any shall be done by others." I guess the "if any"
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
me to believe repairs would not be necessary as we had discussed at length my desire not to open up the wall or ceiling (one of the reasons I opted not to increase the power supply to the house). After a somewhat heated exchange, Raf asked what he could do to put my mind at ease (I feared the exposed cables were unsafe) and returned the next day to shift the panel to close the visible gap.
A few days later when the new line to the water heater was installed, it became necessary to open the wall in order to drill through a support stud. As I was informed of this before the work began, I did not have a problem with it and Raf said he could bring a drywall repair worker in to properly open up the wall and then do the repairs immediately after the lines were run. We opted to have all the wallpaper on that wall removed, the holes patched, the circuit breaker panel properly braced with additional wood supports and properly sealed all around. The wall will require several more steps to be refinished and then painted at an additional cost of $700. We have been very pleased with the work so far of
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
, the drywall repairer, that Raf had brought on site.
Raf and the four other workmen from his group were all obviously very skilled in their work, very pleasant to have in our home, cleaned up after themselves and were very considerate. I didn't get other estimates, so I can't be certain, but I suspect A&M is not the lowest cost provider, but I have extremely high confidence in their knowledge and expertise and thought the price charged was fair.
- David R.
A

Rating
I received a call in the morning stating the time he would arrive and arrived on time. I had 3 lights replaced. There were no issues. He was very pleasant and personable. I would recommend using this service.
- Suzanne A.
F

Rating
In my opinion the deal for 8 hours of electric labor was eronious because he would not do the service that I needed which is an electrical panel upgrade which in his own words is an 8 hour job. He instead said the deal for a new electrical panel was $899, which is a very high price for that job in this area.
- Beverly F.
A

Rating
We have used
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
several times now and have been extremely happy with all aspects of his service. He answers/returns phone calls promptly, is always on time, is very pleasant to work with and is extremely honest. Today, I called him early morning and he was able to come same day which was a HUGE help to me! I will continue using
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
in the future and recommend him HIGHLY!
- Annette N.
A

Rating
I would highly recommend
Fort Lauderdale Electricians Provider Name Locked
Electric for 200 amp service upgrades. My technician was like a surgeon. His work was impeccable. They showed up when scheduled and work h****** the days from morning til evening. It was a pleasant surprise to find a company that took such great pride in their work. The Electrical inspector passed the work in no time flat. JOB WELL DONE
- Carl P.
B

Rating
When I first ordered the deal, I never heard anything from them. I called them 3 weeks later and got it situated. I felt they should have called me after I purchased the deal. Once he did come, he was very good. We got mixed up on our times, but as it turns out, he was able to take care of the problem. We had a light in the bathroom that no one was able to fix. He finally got it working and installed doorbells for us.
- Jeanne R.

All Electricians in Fort Lauderdale

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

YAMAHA

10200 NW 21ST ST
Miami

YORK ELECTRIC CONTRACTOR CORP

18032 SW 144TH CT
Miami

YOSEFVAR ELECTRIC CORP

14623 SW 158th Path
Miami

Young Electric Inc

11157 Harbour Springs Cir.
Boca Raton

Your Permit Solution

3901 NW 79TH AVE STE. 259
Miami

YSP Security

6040 Lake Worth Rd
Lake Worth

Z Construction & Remodeling

2750 NE 4th Ave
Pompano Beach

ZACK'S AUTO TECH ELECTRIC

117 NW 14TH ST
Pompano Beach

Zagros Electric

PO Box 16044
Fort Lauderdale

Zagros Electric

PO Box 16044
Fort Lauderdale

Zagros Electric

PO Box 16044
Fort Lauderdale

ZEUS ENERGY

12995 SW 189TH ST
Miami

Ziegler Builders Inc

4930 NW 74 Place
Coconut Creek

ZULUETA AIR CONDITIONING CORP

11224 NW SOUTH RIVER DR
Miami

ZURVAHN CORP

6601 LYONS RD
Pompano Beach

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