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"The worker, , came and was very polite and professional. He gave me a quote up front and when he had to do additional work, he gave a quote" and explained why it was needed. He worked very hard, cleaned up thoroughly, and explained warranty. I was impressed with his work.

-Carole H.

"No service was received. The contractor refused to provide service because I live in Detroit and he feels that his business would be jeopardy if he did any work for Detroit residents.

-marcia R.

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Angie's Answers


First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.


Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.


From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.


If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.


Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.


As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.



Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

Drain Cleaning reviews in Detroit


The three teams of workers that came were friendly, punctual, efficient, and cleaned up after themselves! The company response time was excellent. They explained what had to be done, why, and the process as they worked. I was pleased with all of them and feel confident about referring them to other home owners. By the way, this company was referred ...More to me by another trusted contractor.st
- Sheila J.

was amazing! He was on time, very professional, and did everything beyond my expectations. I would highly recommend this company to anyone.
This is the second time I have submitted a review, so hopefully it will go through this time.
- Barbara F.

can and inspected the problem and explain to me what was going on and they proceeded to fix my complex problem. I was very satisfied with the work . I love the coupons that this company provided used both of them. Love a good deal.

and crew of 2 others arrived and snaked out my basement drain. They were professional and courteous. They were neat and even gave us on tips on what to do for future. They answered all of our questions and explained everything throughly. Even on the phone he was very professional. I would highly recommend him and his company.
- Dustene S.

The customer service of the company was not good, but the owner gave us a call and rectified the situation after we expressed our complaint on Angie's List. We were told that the service call was $90 and we would not be charged and we would have an additional amount of money credited to us. He acknowledged that his service ...More people were wrong. He apologized for them, and we feel that the situation was handled professionally.

The technician, , came out to our home and informed us that he didn't think we needed any work completed at the time of the service call. He told us not worry about any charges for the service call. It seems to me that the guy who came out didn't want to do the work with the Big Deal we had purchased. We had requested to have the drain snaked. He explicitly told us that there would be no charge for the service call. On 10/23, the company charged us for a $95 service call. The technician told the company that "We refused to pay for the service!!!" I specifically asked how much the service call would cost, and he repeatedly told me that since he had done work at our home previously, there would be no charge. I believe that he made a statement with us about not needing to be charged for the service call and is trying to cover his own error, but either way, I want my money refunded for the Big Deal that this company charged me for and no work was completed!!! He did not do any work! He told me he would come back if the drain did need to be snaked in the future. I would have paid for the charge, no questions asked, but he repeatedly told me there would be no charge! I feel like I am entilted to either a free service call, or my money back for the lack of service. A receptionist called my wife on 10/23 to ask for the coupon code to redeem the coupon that we didn't use. The number was given to the receptionist, who redeemed the coupon, yet no work was actually completed!

They were very nice and friendly, yet this miscommunication hurts the relationship I have with the company. They have not been accurate in their reporting of what actually took place.

Showed up on time, assessed the problem and quoted a price. Additional equipment that was needed showed up promptly. They also directed me to a building supply that had the necessary covers for the vent pipes that would prevent future problems. They cleaned out both pipes with in an hour and saved me any additional charges in hourly rates. The servicemen ...More were professional, but personable. A service plan was discussed, but in no way did I feel pressured to sign up. All in all a good experience.
- Daniel W.

The 1st visit was fine. They determined it was a cracked pipe. They said they needed to come back to give an estimate on replacement. The second visit seemed unnecessary and definitely inconvenient.
- Shelly F.

I am working out of state so when I had some plumbing issues back at home it was tough. I have used in the past and from provided me with his cell so I called him. They do not have a camera (they are buying one soon though) so we determined I would have another provider camera and ...More snake the drain. The other provider did not come prepared to say the least. The other provider had to come back later. I asked them for a quote and they came back with a quote of $800 for repairs. quote was just under $400. worked with my sister who was helping me because I am out of town. called me at every step of the process. emailed me with a Quote and Invoice which was really helpful. I will never use another Plumber if I don't have to these guys are great.
- Karl R.

Drain Cleaning Companies in Detroit

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & J Sewer and Drain Inc

51483 Quadrate Dr



A Plus Plumbing

6183 N Waverly St
Dearborn Heights

A Plus Plumbing

6183 N Waverly St

A&M's Plumbing Inc.

Madison Heights

A-1 Home Maintenance Services & Commercial

7583 Jennings rd
Whitmore Lake

A-fordable Plumbing & Mechanical

1147 Centre Rd
Auburn Hills

A1 Bargain Plumbing

5491 Cranbrook St
Dearborn Heights

A1 Choice Home Improvement

19166 Oakville St.

Aaron's Excavating Inc

3124 Seebaldt Ave





Adams Complete Cleaning and Restoration

17895 E. 14 Mile Rd

Advance Restoration

22815 Macomb Industrial Dr
Clinton Township

Affordable Property Services

38070 Mast
Harrison Township

Afor International Const, Co.


After-Hours Plumbing

3476 Fairlane Dr
Allen Park

AJE Contracting

17318 Azalea Ct

Ak image plumbing inc

40204 La Grange dr
Sterling Heights

Ak image plumbing inc

40204 La Grange
Sterling Heights


32843 Cleveland

Allied Plumbing & Sewer

27625 Romine Rd
New Boston

allin plumbing

3344 riverside dr

American Plumbing Inc

1709 8th St

Belleville Plumbing and Heating

41199 Van Born Rd Ste 100

Belmont Plumbing

9501 Iris St

Belvedere Construction LLC

6149 Trailside Dr


Dearborn Heights

Big Jims Sewer & Drain Cleaning

31450 Ford Rd
Garden City

Big John's Plumbing

980 Elmsford

bl moving&maint services

po box 243

Bob Downey Plumbing & Sewer Service

P.O. Box 380121
Clinton Township

Bobs Sanitation Service

27940 Wick Rd

Bulldog Plumbing

22107 Stephens St

Burton & Sons

32900 Manor Park
Garden City

C A L Plumbing & Heating

8525 Belleville Rd

Cadillac Square Emergency Plumbing

111 Cadillac Sq

Camp St Plumbing and Heating

39593 Camp St
Harrison Township

Carter's Plumbing

5140 Cass Elizabeth

Cass Ave Plumbing and Heating

5056 Cass Ave

Clay Plumbing and Heating

1140 Clay St

Clearwater Michigan

12351 Stark Rd

Clearwater Sewer and Drain Cleaning Specialist

22508 Quinn Rd.
Clinton Township

Code Red Cleaning Service

17080 Masonic Ste 218

Collings Plumbing Inc

34926 Phyllis St

Colonial Heating & Cooling

464 N Main St

Complete Mechanical Solutions Inc

42480 Park Ridge Rd

Complete Plumbing Services LLC

1657 Severn Road
Grosse Pointe

Cregger Plumbing & Sewer

2305 Goodrich



Cumming Plumbing Inc.

1425 Goldsmith

CW-1 Plumbing

146 sandbar ln.

D-Best Plumbing & Heating

5288 Saint Clair St

Davison Street Plumbing and Heating

3600 E Davison St

DBC Company, Inc.

46574 ERB DR

dbc Water Pros

18530 Mack Ave
Grosse Pointe Farms

DCP plumbing

14355 Cloverdale

DEC General Home Improvement

700 Laird St
Lake Orion

Dequindre Street Plumbing

10000 Dequindre St

Detroit Plumber

1300 Penobscot Building

Dewitt Sewer and Drain

10905 Dewitt Rd

Dexter Ave Sewer and Drain

8418 Dexter Ave

Direct Plumbing & Drain

17944 Nine Mile Rd

Diverse Management Services

24010 Haggerty Road


1085 Lakeview Dr
Walled Lake

Done Right Cleaning Services

25350 Wexford Ave

Drain Inspectors LLC

22480 Milner Street
Saint Claire Shores

DryMedic Restoration Services of Novi

795 Industrial Ct.
Bloomfield Twp.

Dunlap Construction

28500 Hayes Rd

Eagle Cleaning Company

39116 Zofia Ave
Sterling Heights


22421 KELLY RD

Eco Green

26942 Merideth Dr

Edwards Plumbing & Heating

25003 Michigan Ave

EL Aprea Services LLC

32560 Garfield Rd

Eller Services LLC

1900 S Livernois
Rochester Hills

Emmett Drains & Plumbing

14440 Ellwell

Empire Plumbing Waterproofing Specialists, LLC

6768 E. 12 Mile Rd.
Sterling Heights

Enright Construction

2786 Roundtree Dr

Experience Home Improvement

5903 Wayne Road

Expert Plumbing Inc

48305 Alyce Kay St

Expert Plumbing Inc

8216 Goldie St
Walled Lake

Fairlane Plumbing

1443 Hollywood St

Famco Enterprises,llc.

4785 crane

Family Plumbing

24861 Douglas Dr
South Lyon

Farmington Hills Plumbing

Farmington Hills

First Class Plumbing Inc

Lapeer Road
Lake Orion

Flame Furnace Company

2200 E Eleven Mile Rd




Dearborn Heights

Gill Plumbing & Heating Co

13676 Dix Toledo Rd

GR Emergency Plumbing

12700 Grand River Ave

GR Plumbing and Heating

12060 Grand River Ave

GRA Plumbing


Grand Blvd Plumbing

2896 W Grand Blvd

Hamilton Property Management LLC

19190 Binder ST

Hancock Street Plumbing and Heating

108 W Hancock St

HandyDan Home Improvements

18441 W. McNichols Rd.

Handyman Shane

2120 Cambridge

Harper Ave Sewer and Drain

12021 Harper Ave

Harrison Township Sewer and Drain

39292 Lakeshore Dr
Harrison Township

Heaney Plumbing & Heating

12595 Gratiot Ave

Home Aide Renovating & Repair

1738 Henbert Ct
West Bloomfield

Home Designs By Young LLC

25675 Lahser Rd

Honey do home improvements

29097 richard

Hoover Electric Plumbing Heating Cooling

41800 Hayes Rd
Clinton Township


42235 Yeargo Dr
Sterling Heights

Hubble and Sons

4600 9th street

Husband For A Day Inc

809 Worchester Dr

Iron Pipe Sewer & Drain, Inc

3938 Charles St

JOC Property Maintenance

39348 Lyndon St

Jolliffi Construction

14260 Burt Rd

Jones 911 Payless Plumbing Service

9732 Petoskey Ave



Longstaff Drain Plumbing

Shelby Township

Lyon Plumbing LLC

2631 Harvest Hill

M.T. Chargot Building Co

22510 Hoover Rd

Masters Touch Construction

20208 Avalon
Saint Clair Shores

Matheson Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

4307 S Commerce Rd
Commerce Township

McDaniel Maintenance Inc.

P.O. Box 2173

Nevada Street Sewer and Drain

2510 E Nevada St


20301 MAXINE
Saint Clair Shores


19169 ILENE

Nu Pipe

203 W Montcalm St


Ann Arbor

Perfect Plumbing Sewer & Drain

15910 26 Mile Rd

Perk's Plumbing

PO BOX 47901
Oak Park

Pipes Plus Plumbing

Mount Clemens

Plumb Pro

14043 Denne St

Plumbing Professors

40665 Koppernick Rd.

Plumbing Techs

24605 John R Rd
Hazel Park

Priceless Preservations Construction

18244 W McNichols



Professional Home Restorations

43862 Freeway Drive Suite J75
Sterling Heights

Professional Plumbing

22436 Lakeland

Professional Plumbing

22436 Lakeland
Saint Clair Shores

Randolph Street Plumbing

1234 Randolph St

Re-Construction, Inc.

17250 Redford St

Real Estate Authority

17301 Livernois #325

Renaissance Construction Group

17535 E 9 Mile Rd

Renaissance Plumbing and Heating

100 Renaissance Ctr

Restoration & Recovery Plumbing

41275 Old Michigan Ave

Rick's Plumbing

1075 Lake Lane dr.
White Lake

Smitty's Sewer Service

18071 Pennington Dr

Snowden Sewer and Drain

19326 Snowden St

Solomom Plumbing

29665 William K Smith Dr
New Hudson

Sur-Flo Plumbing

34724 Beaconsfield St
Clinton Township

Sussexx Plumbing

19391 Sussex St

Swift Restoration

15515 Wabash st

T & R Drain Cleaing, LLC

28721 Jefferson Ave
St Clair Shores


18011 E. 14 Mile Rd.

The Drain and Sewer Co

27847 Delton St
Madison Heights

The Fix It Friends

9219 rockland

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