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"I called them for an estimate of the work we wanted to do. The original estimate was just for a small repair where the sewer cleanout pipes were, but added in the" sinking step and concrete around the patio door that created a problem for water pooling with leaking downstairs. They were very polite and though there schedule was backed out several months they moved the work ahead of other projects for my elderly parents. They didn't want them to wait and have more problems with water in the basement as well as issues that could occur with walking out the door on a very sunken step. Some bad weather delayed the original timing, but they still put this job ahead of others. They were very careful and cleaned up after the demoiltion of the portion of patio they needed to remove. The next day, the concrete was delivered and poured into place, stamped and cleaned up. The match was really good and since the stamp was such an old pattern, they rented it and it blended pretty well even though it was slightly different. My parents were very pleased with all the work. They came back about a week later to cut the plastic pipe to level in the concrete where the cleanout was. This is a family owned business and I felt very comfortable with all of them. They were all extremely nice and wanted to do the best job for us.

-Jan F.

"Hired to replace the main sewer line for $4925. Got two other bids; one was essentially the same ($4950) and the other was about $1000 higher." They did the work as promised and in a timely (1.5 day) manner. They did have to reschedule for a couple of days later because their pipe bursting machine was down - but they called the day before to let me know.

-Robert K.

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Local Articles in Denver



There are many reasons why homeowners need a professional to excavate their yard, concrete or around their foundation. In this guide to hiring an excavator, we'll dig into what situations require someone to do excavation work, what to look for when hiring an excavator, what you should do before you dig, alternatives to excavation, costs to excavate on your property and scams to avoid.

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Angie's Answers


Short answer - yes it is possible. However, generally you are looking at major $, and a lot of workers tracking dirt up and down the basement stairs unless you have (or can easily add) an outside basement door.

You would need a General Contractor as well as a foundation specialist if you use a General, who will handle permits, minor electrical, plumbing, and drywall repair issues even though most of the heavy work may be done by the foundation specialist subcontractor. If you go the lift beam method, then it might be a house mover doing the lifting, then the General and normal trades handling the rest.

When a house is built with a part basement and part crawl space, the footer (the concrete strip support pad the foundation wall is bonded to with rebar and sits on) typically sits a foot or two below the basement slab. Then, to save money, they "step-up" the footer to a shallower depth for the crawl space. This means that to deepen the crawl space to full depth, you also have to deepen the foundation. It is very rare to put in full depth foundation all around, then backfill part of it to crawlspace depth - if you have gone to the trouble of full depth foundation all around, why not pour a slab and sell the additional basement footage too ? See if you can come up with the builder's plans p they will show you what the footer does.

Deepening the crawl space to full depth is commonly done in one of two ways for residential jobs (there are several more sophisticated methods such as pin piles used on large or very tricky commercial jobs, or on historic buildings with weak foundations and walls) -

1) by carefully excavating the crawl space to the new footer depth (say about 5-8 feet below ground level, depending on whether you have a daylight or full basement) bit by bit along the foundation (3-5 feet at a time, typically), usually tearing out the existing foundation for that section while temporarily support the existing wall and joists, then pouring a new concrete footer and foundation wall up to the bottom of the house beams. Occasionally, they will be able to leave the existing wall and pour the new foundation up to and connect to the bottom of it. Then you move on and do another section the same way, so you are incrementally removing dirt, building a new wall section, then moving on. This is quite expensive because of the limited work space and difficulty of getting materials in and waste dirt and old foundation materials out, and the slow progress due to having to wait for concrete to set before you can buid the wall on the footer, and before you can move on to the next section.

2) by cutting slots in the existing crawl space walls and sliding heavy steel beams through  crossways under the floor joists and picking up the weight of the section of the house over the crawl space on jacks, elevating it about 1/2 inch above the existing foundation, all at one time. Then they can remove the existing crawl space foundation and all the dirt all at once, and pour a new footer and pour or lay a new foundation up to the bottom of the walls, then lower the house back onto it and pull out the support beams.

Either way, because of the restricted work space and waitingon concrete setting, the excavation and new foundation will cost about 2-4 times as much as one done outdoors. Therefore, while this type of job is done on occasion, a contractor's or architect's estimate usually shows that you can build a totally new one story extension or Florida room for not an exorbitant amount more, and that new space is worth a lot more to most homeowners, and certainly to a new buyer, than basement space.

As one example, we had two neighbors years ago who had the numbers run by an architect, and for one the estimate was only 30% more to build a large Florida room than to reclaim a crawl space about 1/3 smaller in floor area. For the other they could get the foundation and rough framing (without siding, roof, or interior) for a basement-less new addition the same size for the same price as digging out the crawl space. For this reason, when crawl space expansion is done on a residence, it is usually a do-it-yourself job (and you have to be pretty experienced to do it right).

One other factor of significance if you dig out the crawl space is all the utilities (wiring, pipes, ducts, etc) have to be checked to see that there is freedom of movement at the interface between the area over the crawl space and the rest of the house, as there is bound to be a little bit of movement between them. It is also almost inevitable that there will be minor non-structural cracking and slight separation of plaster or drywall walls and ceilings at the junction area over the first couple of years afer construction. Nailed-down hardwood flooring and vinyl near the interface can also buckle, though "floating" laminate floors are usually OK. Of course, if the contractor is incompetent or inexperienced, serious damage to the house can result, particularly if the foundation collapses while he is digging.

Therefore, I would not recommend this route except for a very expensive house (as in building a wine cellar or safe room), a historic house where additions are prohibited, or one the owners just love and intend to live in for many more decades but do not have land space for an addition. I would put the money into an addition if you need the additional space and have the land.

Well the fact is he is going to have to pull permits which means it has to be inspected before he is done, you also have to consider the equiptment that he has to bring out to the jobsite to do the job and the man power plus materials, it's costly, but I am not from your area so if you are unsure call another company out and see what they say.
Don't tell them what the other company said as far as price.

It is almost certain that you will have to modify the foundation to make it deeper too - and that is MAJOR structural work.


You need a civil/geotechnical engineering firm with experience in foundation rehab and putting in basements under existing homes to design the process and prepare and seal the plans and specifications, which you will need before you can get a building permit for this. They will also be able to help you select either a foundation excavation or a house moving and jacking company to do the actual work for you.


The engineer can also help you with a cost estimate - because I think you will be surprised how much this is going to cost. I have designed or managed quite a few such jobs, from highrise buildings to homes, and even the smallest houses of about 600SF footprint ran at least $15,000, and generally house basement excavations run more like $25-40,000 unless the foundation was originally designed for it but for some reason the basement was never put in, which is VERY rare except in very deep frost areas were footings are occasionally deep enough to allow a basement to be dug without deepening them. I worked on a couple back east that ran about $100,000 each because they were old 2-story brick buildings, which are very sensitive to differential movements - probably like yours.


A couple of other factors to consider is that in doing this you are likely to get at least some minor drywall cracking and door and window jamming, and be sure the contractor is insured and bonded to the hilt and for the potential rebuild value of the house, not just the job cost, because a major mistake can turn your house into a teardown. Not common, but the less experienced the contractor the more likely he is to do something dramatically wrong, and at the same time the smaller and less experienced contractors generally have lower coverages so your risks is compounded in two ways. With a row home you have the added risk of damaging adjacent units.


One thing to consider cost wise before you go ahead - I have worked a couple of jobs where it turned out cheaper and far safer to scrap the digging in a basement idea and put in an addition with same footprint instead. However, looking back I see you are in a row home, so that is likely not going to work. However, being in a row home, especially if on the Potomac flats south or east of the capital area, the soil conditions are generally the pits once you get off the Georgetown heights, so putting a basement under a rowhome without disturbing the other ones is VERY difficult and pricey - I would be surprised if you could do it for less than $100,000.

One other factor is utilities - one of the first things to do is check depth to any utilities like sewer lines, the Metro, etc - if you are over one of those that could well put your project totally out of the frame of reality.


You asked for a recommendation - one who specializes in this type of work that I would recommend, though your job might well be too small size for them - but they might be able to give you an engineer and contractor recommendation if so. Company name is Schnabel Foundation Company in Sterling Va and Bethesda, MD in your area - website www.schnabel.com. They could handle both the engineering and construction.

If the windows are being put in by a general contractor, he can easily handle the window wells too. If you were looking for a window installer to do the windows, they might or might not do the window wells as well - some do, some do not. A small one-man excavation company can do this excavation, as can a handyman as it just takes about 1/2-1 hour shovel work per window in normal soil conditions, because the soil around the foundation is already pretty loose from foundation constructiuon (as a rule). Just be sure they pour concrete in the bottom to keep water from coming under the well, and that it is firmly fastened to the foundation and liberally asphalt sealed at the interface with the concrete - not just caulked at the edge, but mastic-coated on cleaned concrete BEFORE the window well in installed and concrete poured in the bottom. (Note - the concrete depends on soil conditions and water level - if your soil is pretty free draining and groundwater level never comes up to bottom of window well, then a gravel bed in the bottom is best so it stays dry - but if groundwater rises that high or you are in real impermeable soil like clay, then concrete works best. If concrete bottom is used, you probably want to have the clear acrylic window well cover put on too to keep water and frogs and such out. Of course, if this is an emergency egress window, you cannot put the plastic covers over it legally.

Wow - from way general to totally specific - nice job, you have your scope of work almost ready to contact potential bidders about giving a bid - just need to double check each item hads quantities attached to it, plus a plan with depths (or specify tie-in elevations to existing pipe and required drain/pipe slopes - say 1% or more). Search the List (in green banner bar) for Earthwork and Excavation contractors in your area with good reviews and ratings.

here is a very rough idea of costs - obviously you need bids to tie it down, this should just give you a ballpark to compare to - assuming all this work is done at the same time.

1) & 2) - Tree and rock maybe $100 - more like $200 if you want the stump totally rooted out rather than just the stump and root crown taken out.

3) Walk removal and disposal probably about $100-200 - maybe half if these are 3-4 inch individual concrete squares or rectangles that can be skidded to the side, the excavation and ground sloping done, then slid back into place with a backhoe or bobcat or by wood skids and prybar, eliminating the hauling and disposal cost.

4) Excavation and disposal of soil probably about $20-30/CY, because you are talking a small quantity. Cheaper if you have an on-site area it can be spread out onsite for disposal, or stockpiled in yard as a future project dirt pile, if that is suitable.

5) You don't say what the existing drain is - underground drain for downspouts maybe ? For shallow burial, probably about $5/LF or so. Why square - round is cheaper and far stronger for given material thickness.

6) Fence R&R probably about $150-200, depending on depth of posts and whether concreted in or not.

7) vegetation removal - not knowing how much, $100-200

8) Garden wall around $10-12/SF assuming excavated material from yard is suitable for the general backfill - remember should go 4-12 inches below grade for stability (4" for this wall, more like 6-12 for higher front wall)

Front/side yard:

1) Move large boulder - $50-100

2) vegetation removal and relocate 3 shrubs - $150-300 (not knowing how much vegetation orhow big shrubs are)

3) excavation at $20-30/CY again as above

4) sprinkler system relocate/repair - $75-150

5) garden wall around $12-15/SF as above including concrete footer needed for this height wall

6) area drain laterals about $5-10/LF, assuming not over 3 feet deep

7) slab drainage - I don't know where the quick lime idea came from, but this is a no-go - it will remove a small amount of water (maybe 5-20 gallons) from the soil one-time - it has no long term function as it will quickly become saturated. You are actually likely to have 5 wet circles in your concrete slab from this forever, as the lime will act as a soggy sponge, retaining water that would otherwise wick away. If you have or expect a basement slab moisture problem, then you need a sump pump with sump installed, and possibly (depending on how free-draining the base material under your slab is to carry waer to the sump pump) lateral drains cut in below the perimeter of the slab. Can run from $800-1500 range for a pump and pit depending on capacity and wiring situation, plus $500-1000 for an emergency battery-powered backup if desired. $1000-2500 range typically if lateral drains around the perimeter of the slab are necessary. Cheaper but sloppier and moisture-causing solution is small trenches or above-slab channels to carry the water to sump pump. These laterals are commonly held off on till you see if the sump pump can handle the issue itself, ASSUMING you have unfinished basement so a bit of seepage aroundbthe slab does no more damage than needing a mopping up. Personally, unless you have a continual seepage of water into basement or it is finished so leakage is critical, I would leave sump pump and drains for later - to see if your surface drainage changes eliminates the basement dampness problem, which it commonly does unless your water table rises to the basement slab level. Also, having a sump pump implies water issues and tolls against any future buyer finishing an unfinished basement, so it detracts from resale value if you have one.

Note these are off-the-cuff type numbers, NOT any sort of deliberate estimate - but I felt it was better to give you a ballpark than to just say go get estimates. Except for the floor drains, this sounds like a good job for a small 1-3 man excavation and hauling company, but make sure they have experience in putting in drain pipe and block walls and have good references in that area.

Note- if you are inclined to do it yourself work and have the time, most of this is good homeowner home improvement project material. You could have a contractor with a bobcat or small tractor with small backhoe come and pull the fence posts out (you could remove the above-ground apart easily), trench for the pipes, maybe move the rocks and sidewalk (though you could do that yourself with a few scraps of wood as skids and a 5 foot prybar assuming the walk is in piece, not continuously reinforced, and to do the bulk excavation and hauling for you, leaving the vegetation clearing, pipe work, trench backfilling, final slope dressing, block wall building, transplanting, etc to you - could cut your cost about 1/3-1/2. Basement slab drainage I consider a separate issue which would not cost significantly different if done as part of this job, or later if drainage channels or slab french drains are deemed necessary.

For the excavation - remember to get utility locates - I recommend once for bidding so they know where utilities are, then require the bidder to get relocates just before excavation starts. Gas, telephone, cable TV are commonly less than a foot down - water and sewer usually 3 feet or more but don't count on it. Also worry about septic system is you have that, and any power or water lines to/from well if you have a well. Plus of course your sprinkler system if in the way of proposed excavation.

Good Luck with your project


Excavating reviews in Denver


After 5 sewer line cleanings, following 5 backups in our basement, we knew it was time to have our clay sewer pipe replaced. We contacted several companies we found on Angie's list. was by far the most professional, responsive, and flexible. came out to evaluate the situation and was forthcoming ...More with information, expectations and price. Every question, concern and phone call were answered immediately. He even went the extra mile to look into all options to keep our cost as low as possible. The crew that did the excavation and pipe replacement were punctual, polite and hard working. I highly recommend this company. This was a great expense for us and I feel we found the best company to do the work for us.
- Sonja B.

Excellent. They were efficient, extremely well priced, and provided friendly service. They were a pleasure to work with.
They worked long hours and were very respectful or our neighbors during their demolition work.
They are a family owned company and each member is nicer than the next.
- Joseph D.

It was a great experience. We needed to replace our sewer line and called around for quotes. Plumbing companies were asking around $9,000. quoted around $4,500, but it ended up being $200 cheaper than anticipated -- very honest, reasonable pricing. They were able to start the work very quickly and finished a big project in one ...More day. And our sewer thankfully works just great now. I just recommended them to a friend and realized I hadn't left a review, so here it is. Highly recommended.

They were hired to dig a sewer cleanout and when they did that we think they didn't compact the dirt well enough around the water main when they were finished, and that is why the water main broke. We are in litigation now.
- Carol Y.

Bill was prompt and professional from the first call we made to ask him for an estimate. We were coming in from out of state and he was more than obliging in meeting our schedule. He impressed us with his friendliness and knowledge of what needed to be done to remedy our situation. Our patio roof was ready to be replaced and he gave us a thorough ...More explanation of what would need to be done. His first bid was for a complete demo and rebuild. While it was a very fair bid, we decided to just remove the roof for now and clean up everything until we could decide how to proceed. He gladly bid the demo, all clean-up and projected that the work would take three days. After clearing up some questions with the bid, we contracted with him to do the work. Our daughter who is living in the house was most impressed with Bill and felt his work schedule would give consideration to the fact that she has pets and a new baby. The work was scheduled to begin based on a date that we could be back in town to observe the job. A debris roll-off was delivered prior to the work starting and Bill arrived promptly on the first day. Over the three days, work started promptly and time was allowed for the pets to come outside. A few other details came up during the demo which Bill explained and we agreed to add to the Contract. Bill recommended a company to supply the replacement gutters and except for the installation of those, the job was completed and cleaned up in the estimated three days. We are very satisfied with all of the work and would call him for further projects without hesitation.
- Roxanne P.

This went extremely well. We had a bid from another company that was about $2500 more and they were going to do less work. From the first phone call until the final check there was never a concern. Everything was extremely professional. Should we ever have the need for a plumber this will be our first, and only, phone call.

Update: 8/2011
...More /> I was in paramedic school at the time the original work was completed and had very little time to think about anything other than school during the intensive program. When our sewer collapsed, I was in such a daze. I didn't notice that the excavator had cut through the sprinkler lines buried in my lawn until when my school finally settled down and I had time to charge my sprinkler system for the first time. I dug up my lawn by myself until I got frustrated and called to voice my frustration. I didn't expect to do anything about the sprinklers, I just wanted to tell them that I was frustrated about having to dig up my yard again.

I was directed to the company president, , who listened to my concerns. He told me that when a sewer job is done in the winter, generally they cannot save the sprinkler system because the ground is too hard to dig into with shovels. I told him that I understood. could tell that I was exhausted from working for days on the sprinklers and he stated that he really wanted to help me out. He offered to send someone out to help me dig up and repair the sprinkler lines. The next day I received a call telling me that someone was coming over to help me. A polite and knowledgeable plumber met me and helped me for 4 hours to dig up and repair several damaged sprinkler lines. Then on top of all this, gave us a movie gift card. I've felt like my hard work was rewarded after a few trips to the movies.

I want to thank and for their help in making things right. After our experience, there is no question that they put the customer first.
- Juliette P.

We used Apex for some small interior plumbing problems, including capping a leaking shower and repairing a sewer drain. always did a good job and generally came when he said he would. There were some minor communication issues between us, him, and the administrative assistant at Apex, but they were always resolved. We also ...More used Apex for replacing a lead water main to our house with copper. We received multiple quotes before choosing them, and they were at or below all of them. The crew that came did a great job. They had some big problems getting the line out using their standard methods and ended up having to stay many hours past when they intended to use other techniques. The foreman for the project was very good with updating us and apologizing for the delay. At one point, we saw the absolute mess in our basement - but there was hardly any evidence they had been there by the time they came back the next day to clean up. I anticipate we will be using them for any future plumbing needs.
- Anne N.

My 90 year old clay sewer line needs cleaned every couple years due to roots, so I had a ?rooter? company come out to cable the sewer line. They offered a free camera inspection so see if they got all the roots and to see if there was any line damage. Camera inspection showed several places in the line that appeared damaged and were about to ?cave ...More in?. The company that told me that I needed the whole sewer line to be replace which would be $9000-20000, depending how they did it since it went under a driveway and went about 15 feet into a busy street. Other quoted came in from 7000-13000, but they were just quoting for the replacement of the line. from urged me to get a second opinion or at the very lease get the sewer line scoped again to see if he could save me some money on only replacing the place that needed it. He directed me to at Pipe , a very knowledgeable and honest guy, who showed me that the ?damaged? and ?caving in? spots were actually places they used to dig down and break into the top part of the clay pipes to clean the lines before they had the equipment of today. The holes were properly covered and this is very typical for this era house and line. He saw nothing on his inspection that indicated that I needed any work done. I am very thankful to at for having me get this second opinion. Also, his quote to get the line replaced was also the best one that I received too, before we found out that nothing needed to be done. When it comes time to do plumbing work in the future, you can be sure that I will call him first thing!
- Travis N.

Excavators in Denver

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

4 Seasons Hauling LLC

2862 S Mobile St

4S Contracting LLC

40544 Ranch Rd

A Mile Hi Sewer And Drain Cleaning Co. LLC

4655 South Julian St

A-OK Plumbing Heating & Cooling, Inc.

6321 N Washington St Unit N

AAA+ Diehl Concrete

558 Ironton Ct

Aardvark Excavating LLC

410 S Dutch Valley Rd

Absolute Diversified Services, LLC

P.O. Box 622
Castle Rock

Accurate Grading, LLC

8389 E Davies Pl

Affordable Concrete Work

6732 W Coal Mine Ave

All City Drains Inc.

438 Oswego St

Alliance Restoration Inc.

7733 W Bostian Rd

Andraos Construction

4925 N Mesa Dr
Castle Rock



Anthony Biddulph Construction

5300 S. Greenwood St


4231 W 16TH AVE

Apex Plumbing Inc

12275 W 48th Ave
Wheat Ridge

Aspen Falls Custom Design & Landscape

6989 S Jordan RD

Asphalt & Concrete Surplus Services

2770 Uintah St
Colorado Springs

At Your Service Plumbing Company

12081 W Alameda Pkwy

Atomix Concrete Services Inc

5490 Krameria St
Commerce City

Attractive Plumbing

871 Thornton Pkwy

Baird Construction

5960 S Eaton Ln

Bell Home Solutions

2150 S Abilene St

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

2555 South Santa Fe Drive Unit J

Big Dog Rooter

19857 E Cornell Ave





Blue Sky Plumbing & Heating

4765 Independence Street
Wheat Ridge


1930 E 40TH AVE

Brian Simons Inc

715 S Picadilly Rd

Brighter Basements

2134 S Delaware St

Brooks Enterprises

8907 W. Plymouth Ave.

Brothers Plumbing, Heating & Electric

12249 Pennsylvania St

Buerger Brothers Construction

190 Washington Ave

C & C Plumbing

3400 S Lowell Blvd





Cherry Environmental Solutions Inc

14405 W. Colfax Ave

CityWide Drain Cleaning LLC

12990 Uinta St.

Colorado Construction Group

5411 W 97th PL

Colorado Custom Backhoe

9885 W Wesley Ave




3246 S Platte River Dr

Colorado Proscapes

875 S Colorado Blvd

Colorado Water and Sewer

6300 W. 49th Dr.
Wheat Ridge


5107 W 9TH ST

Cornerstone Construction and Excavation LLC

12185 N Dumont Way #200

CQL-2000 Constructors LLC

PO Box 723

Crawlspaces 2 Basements

PO Box 857

Custom Environmental Services

8041 N I 70 Frontage Rd


2555 E HIGHWAY 224

Dakota Contracting

Dakota Contracting

Designs by Stonescapes

15707 E 109th Ave
Commerce City


P O BOX 738
Wheat Ridge

DRAIN AMERICA - Plumbing & Drain Specialists

11887 Washington Street

Drain Solvers-The Pros

630 15th Avenue


5857 W 38Th Ave

Drains R Us

5306 s Jericho St

Echelon Squared Development Group

20345 E. Vassar Ave.


14607 E Temple Place

Elite Contracting LLC

3700 Quebec St Num 196

Elite Landscape & Outdoor Living

10218 Rustic Redwood Way


6700 E 50TH AVE
Commerce City


3316 W 32nd Ave Apt 102

Everyday Solutions

707 Partridge Circle

Everyday Solutions

610 Meadow View Dr

Fellet Landscaping & Sprinkler Co Inc

3373 S Fellet Ct

Finch Home Improvements

5925 S. Willow Way


730 W 62ND AVE



Gene's Construction LLC

6800 Huron St


1858 S Wadsworth Blvd Ste 310

Hagers Construction and Landscaping

9680 Castle Ridge Cir

Hay Trucking Inc.

41344 E 104th Ave



Joel Valenti Industries

6807 Otis St

Justin Landscapes LLC

1637 s dover ct

KALIN Construction

PO BOX 6337


3879 E 120th



Ken Williams Concrete, Inc

PO Box 2009

Kinsman Construction Inc

12970 W 20th Ave

L & M Underground, Inc.

6401 N. Broadway, Unit O


18710 Hwy 72

LIM Services, LLC

4982 S Danube St



Lopez Drywall

14659 E 24TH AVE

Mack Land, LLC

27184 N. Mack Dr.

matchtone masonry

4346 w. custer pl


701 W 64TH AVE

Metro MCM Inc

3124 S Parker Rd

Mile High Demolition & Excavation

9595 Pecos Street #64

Mile High GreenScapes, LLC

1340 W Byers Pl

Mile High Plumbing, LLC

13857 Krameria St.

Moonlight Landscape Services

23015 WCR 21 3/4

Mountain Ridge Builders

9338 W Oregon Pl

Movin Dirt Inc

14225 W 72nd Ave

Nava Landscaping

1067 s. krameria st

Need Help Services

18331 e davies ave




8865 Federal Blvd Unit 102

Ochsner Family Design

425 Oakland Street

Olshan Foundation Repair

1655 W Girard Ave



Outside Dreams Landscape Design & Construction

9609 S University Blvd #631932
Highlands Ranch

P.S.C. Construction, Inc.

3275 West Layton Avenue

Paramount Remodeling Company Inc

8105 W I-25 Frontage Rd



Pattony Construction Co

45490 N Eagle Nest Cir

Peak Structural

707 County Line Rd
Palmer Lake



Pipeline Drain

4487 E. 93rd Avenue

Pipeline Industries

1400 16th St Ste 400

Pipeline Specialists

208 Manor Harrison City Rd

Plumbline Services Inc

7000 S Potomac St Unit Main

Pro-Active Sewer & Drain

P.O. Box 7222


14405 W. COLFAX AVE. SUITE 285

Purely Ponds Fine Landscapes

PO Box 88456
Colorado Springs

Quality Builders

13550 washington St

Ram Jack of Colroado, LLC

12540 W Cedar Dr

Ray's Backhoe Service

6698 McCall Dr

Red Diamond Restoration, Inc.

6321 N Washington ST

Rodriguez Construction Org., L.L.C.

3043 California Street

RooterGuy plumbing

10148 Idalia Street
Commerce City

sanford and sons

34708 paiute road

Saxton Construction

1475 S Jersey Way

Sperr Maintenance & Improvements Inc

15013 E Arkansas Dr

Stepplers Landscaping

1085 Babcock Rd
Colorado Springs



Surface Solutions

6660 Delmonico Dr
Colorado Springs

Sustainable Building Development

7989 S Monaco Ct

Swift Companies Inc

500 Theresa DR

T & R Concrete Excavation LLC

12693 N Tenderfoot Trl

Terra Contracting

10940 S.Parker rd

The Davey Tree Expert Co Boulder

6900 W 117th Ave

Torrison Stoneworks

P.O. Box 855

Trench Right LLC

4407 E 60th Ave
Commerce City

Tri-State Environmental Group

3804 Simms St.
Wheat Ridge

Turf Master Sod Farm

3327 N Giddings Rd
Fort Collins

TWG Construction LLC

10399 N Chatfield Dr

Twins Construction Services

Greenwood Village

Ues Construction

2529 S. Fundy cir Suite 102

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