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"Tested done as scheduled. Spent 3 days spraying 3 different solutions under bldg. Tests after treatment good.

-john S.

"these guys are true professionals. they are quite knowledgeable, and have been in the business for some time. you can tell they have a passion for the industry," which is refreshing! unfortunately I did not use them for external reasons, but their bid was incredibly comprehensive and I have every intention of using them in the future.


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Local Articles in Dallas

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Dallas


PHENOMENAL!!! these guys did an outstanding job, from responsiveness to price to quality of work. across the board, I could not be happier. I hope to never have to use a mold remediation company again, but if I do, they'll be my only call.

Outstanding! came out to the house and assessed potential areas of concern for mold growth and also took humidity readings inside as well. She was on-time, professional, very knowledgeable, intelligent, honest, and fair. suggested remedies to alleviate minor humidity related issues in my house and how ...More to move forward with addressing mold growth in the crawlspace. A follow-up email was also sent with details on mold remediation. went above and beyond and this was a very pleasant experience. I cannot say enough. If you think you are experiencing mold related issues at your house call .
- Andrew D.

was early and very nice. She inspected the 105 year old historic home with detail. She got to know our situation and helped me apply what she taught me to future situations we might come up with. I really appreciate this.
- Amie P.

They are fast, they are accurate, they are professional, They are helpful, They are great at what they do. It's a difficult thing to find mold in your home. It's overwhelming when you have to deal with what to do. They are responsive providing recommendations on who to use. If you have to use them as mold is such an unpleasant thing to have ...More and deal with, These are the people you want to work with. The are the same people who the professionals use. Bravo Mold Lab Bravo.
- Ken C.

We called , at the recommendation of the mold remediation company that we used. He was great! So professional, knowledgeable, patient, and reassuring. Reading all of the scary black mold stories on the internet, had me very concerned, but was able to explain in detail which kind of molds existed in ...More our house, how toxic/non toxic they were, and how each air cleaner, worked etc. He was super detailed and put our nerves at ease, and saved us a bundle in money, time, and inconvenience of moving to a hotel during the remediation process. He was able to explain, that it was safe to stay, because of the types of mold that existed, that we weren't putting our family in way. We couldn't have been more fortunate than to have had recommended to us and to have been able to work with him.

- Jean R.

Everything was great! Very professional, and workers were sure to keep work areas clean and clean up any dust/dirt that was accumulated while cleaning areas. Very happy with the services provided.
- Jennifer C.

They arrived on time and got straight to work. I was very concerned because mold can be hazardous. The representative eased my concerns and quickly made me more comfortable. The lab results were back very much sooner than I would have expected and they communicated with me throughout the process in a thoughtful and professional manor.
- Steve Sell C/O Elise Wright S.

They showed up on time and were professional and courteous. The mold report was provided timely and they didn't force any type of upswell, but instead offered reasonable advice.
- Brent M.

Mold Removal Experts in Dallas

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

911 Restoration

10031 Monroe Dr

911 Restoration Fort Worth

7301 Whitehall St
Fort Worth

911 Restoration Fort Worth

7440 Lake Worth Rd, Lake Worth, FL 33467
Lake Worth

A Plus Gutters & Painting

3013 Glasgow

A.C.T. Contractors, LLC

445 E. FM 1382 Suite 3352
Cedar Hill



Absolute Inspections LLC

2400 Jupiter Rd

Advance Environmental Control

P.O.Box 14326

Always Dependable Home Remodeling

1008 knight circle



American Water Damage of DFW

1517 W North Carrier Pkwy
Grand Prairie



Anything Plus Contracting Services

1824 Crescent Dr.



Awesome Tubs

11022 Barbarosa Dr

Ayalas Painting

2119 W Illinois Ave

Blackmon Mooring

315 N Great SW Pkwy

Blackmon Mooring

1101 Enterprise Ave

Blackmon Mooring

315 N Great SW Pkwy

Boom Construction

3521 parkridge Dr

Brick Doctor

905 Cresthaven Drive

Broad Scale Remodeling LLC

112 Pinion Lane

C&M Painting and Remodel

2220 Long Creek Ct.

Care One Environmental Inspecting

2602 Mayfield Rd
Grand Prairie

CAT Contractors

2828 Eastbrook

Chem-Tech Carpet Cleaning

6932 Greenville Ave

Collin Creek Duct Cleaning

11522 Pagemill Rd

Cornerstone Chem Dry

1821 Belt Line Rd

Culley Enviro LLC

4737 Lakewood Dr

Dean Lovvorn

4637 Putnam Dr

DFW Floors

3425 W Kingsley Rd

DFW ProSpecs

5482 Pecan Place Dr


801 E 16th St

Dial One Service

911 Carlsbad

Dry Force

1829 W Shady Grove Rd
Grand Prairie

Dynamic Construction and Roofing

9500 Ray White Rd

Elite Roofing Solutions Inc

5587 Davis Blvd
North Richland Hills

Emergency Property Damage Restoration

2901 W Parker Rd, Suite 867535

Four Seasons Commercial Services, Inc.

4125 Hildring West
Fort Worth

Full Scale Remodeling & Labor Services

1903 cottonwood st


1910 Pacific Ave

Gunns Textile Restoration

2209 8th Ave
Fort Worth

handyman services

1104 Randy Rd.
Cedar Hill

Heartland Restoration Services

2045 Shawnee Trail

Home Compliance Services LLC

401 E. Corporate Drive Suite 290

Home Inspection All Star Dallas

9550 Forest Lane


PO Box 2421

Intercon Environmental, Inc.

210 S. Walnut Creek Drive

J.C.'s Environmental Technologies

PO Box 93085

JACS General Contracting LLC.

2100 N State Highway 360, Suite 800
Grand Prairie

JAHG Quality Construction

1420 Cotton Gin Dr

Jenkins Restorations

3012 Avenue E

JMA Environmental

9441 LBJ Freeway

JMAC Roofing and Construction LLC

General Delivery

Jts painting and handyman

919 N Lake Dr

K & H Consulting, Inc.

105 Vance Court

Kiwi Carpet Cleaning

6860 N Dallas Pkwy

Kiwi Services

17304 Preston Rd

L A T Services

7424 Forrest Ln
North Richland Hills

LDA Enterprises Inc.

13298 Beach Club Road
The Colony



McLeod Handyman Service

10339 Carry Back Circle


1111 West Ridge Dr

Metroplex Roofing and Remodeling

4107 Herschel Ave

Modecor Corporation

2435 Southwell Rd

Mold Inspection & Testing Dallas TX

6023 Black Berry Lane

Mold Prevention Services, LLC

2005 Cooper Ridge Ln


2501 Mayes Road

Mooring Recovery Services

2110 113th St
Grand Prairie

Mr. Handyman of Northeast Tarrant County

2022 W. Northwest Hwy

NobeNash Inc

727 N Shepherd Dr

NTX Mold Inspection Services

5200 S Colony Blvd #560601
The Colony

Oleander Construction

20530 Benwest Ct

Olympic Restoration Systems

12413 Maplewood Dr
Fort Worth

Pacific Environmental Group, LLC

2435 Southwell Rd.

Paul Davis Emergency Services

2154 W. NW Hwy

Paul Davis Emergency Services

2154 w. nw hwy ste 203

Peak Performance Construction

PO Box 454
Royse City

Precision One Group

6380 Rendon Bloodworth Road
Fort Worth

Prestigious Home Designs Remodeling LLC

4401 Long Prairie Rd.
Flower Mound

Prime Time Auto Care

PO Box 25334

Prime Time Roofing

14241 Dallas Pkwy

Pro Services

2304 Roanoke Cir

ProSteam Restoration

717 Kevin Cricle

PrOzone Professionals

709 Lingco Dr Suite 111

Quisenberry Construction

101 E Renfro

RCI Environmental Inc

17290 Preston Rd Ste 203


1100 Summit Ave

Restoration Factory

2919 Commerce Street

Restoration1 of Frisco

1503 Hillcrest Blvd
Little Elm

RestorationSOS® of Carrollton

3044 Old Denton Road, Suite 111-110

RnJ Painting & Landscaping

13314 Fall manor dr

ServiceMaster by Bridges

222 S Mayhill Rd - Ste 102

Servicemaster Disaster Control

1484 Champion Road



SERVPRO of Northwest Dallas

1846 Idlewild lane LBJ Freeway

Servpro of Prosper / Little Elm

P.O. Box 815
Little Elm

SERVPRO of Richardson


SERVPRO of South Garland

2018 Wall St

SERVPRO of Southeast Dallas County

1846 Idlewild Lane

Shamrock Restoration

505 Plum Street

Steamatic of Dallas / Fort Worth

3333 Quorum Dr
Fort Worth

Texas Disaster Restoration

2600 E. Southlake Blvd. #120

Texas Fire Smoke and Water

17304 Preston Road


3011 Hood Street

Trevco Restoration and Roofing

428 W Kennedale Pkwy

United General Services

1324 Mariposa Dr

USA Clean Master

333 Throckmorton St
Fort Worth

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive

Walter Barber

2401 Ohio Dr

Water Damage Dallas

4904 Sycamore St

Water Mold & Fire Dallas

6215 Richmond Ave

Water Rescue

359 Lake Park Suite 124

Williams Renovation & Building Company LLC

2822 Lost Creek Court

Xpert Handyman

226 e dodge

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