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A
"Very professional. Worked quickly and efficiently, no idle conversation. except to say to carefully choose the company to do the repair. We were satisfied with his report.

-Carmela P.

A
"It went very, very well.
is a very personable, intelligent guy and he really understood our vision for the house and made us feel secure" about purchasing it. He spent about 2 hours with us discussing our plans for the house, including moving walls and renovating. He also said that once we got to taking the walls apart to send him pictures and he would help us determine if a wall was structural or not. A year and a half later, we were finally ready and I sent him photos on a whim to see if he would still talk to us about it and was pleasantly surprised that he had not been kidding. He called me back the next day and spent a half hour on the phone with me discussing the photos I'd sent and our current plans. He was so kind and helpful and we feel much better forging ahead with our project! I know that I will definitely be recommending him to any of our friends who are going to be buying a home or doing any potentially structural remodeling!

-Jonathon H.

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Local Articles in Columbus

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Columbus

A

Rating
First, he responded quickly after I initially called him - then was able to come and do the inspection the next day -- which was great as I had to halt work in the basement until I knew there weren't any issues. t had a great experience with working with
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
on structural questions in my basement that's being redone -- then general questions around the house about a remodel I'm thinking of doing. Not only did he evaluate the areas of concern, he explained it clearly.
- DAVID L.
A

Rating
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was able to quickly access the situation which involved a crack in the lintel of my 100-year-old home where a car had long ago hit my house (the crack had recently opened up a bit). It was quite a relief to learn that all my house needs is to have the basement window beneath the lintel filled in with concrete block to prevent any further movement, and that the stone and mortar foundation should be rebuilt on the inside where it has begun to deteriorate beneath the window..
- JAY & GENIE H.
A

Rating
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was punctual, he looked at the entire house but focused on the area that was of concern to us. He stuck around while we dug a hole to identify how bad the issue was, and once we had identified all of the variables, he wrote us up a report of what he recommended doing to fix the problem and even recommended some contractors that he thought would be ale and willing to take on the little project. Overall we were very happy with
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
's
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and would highly recommend him to anyone looking to consult a structural engineer.
- Kevin B.
A

Rating
the service went very well mr
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
came and gave good professional advice. He was on time and very courteous. becasue of Mr
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
I had a piece of mind and a sound investment!!
- sherry P.
B

Rating
Workers arrived on time and were very nice. They covered everything in the finished basement with plastic to protect from all the dust. They had to take out ceiling tiles and cut/pull back carpet. The job got done in 2 days and clean up was very good. I was kind of surprised that Mr.
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
did not come and check on progress or finish but his foreman was very good and handled everything just fine.
- Paula B.
A

Rating
He was at my home for about and hour taking measurements, performing a very thorough examination and talking me through his recommendation. I was happy that he was thoughtful about what was really needed and conservative in making the recommendation, including giving me an idea of what I should pay for the work.
He made suggestions for steps I could take with the ground on the outside of the house to improve drainage and keep the wall dry without excavation or weep holes, etc.
He also pointed out a couple of rotting floor boards that will need to be replaced eventually.
He will e-mail his written report with drawings.
- Diane T.
A

Rating
The supporting wall under the rear of the garage had bowed a couple of inches at one corner, which had caused the garage floor to crack and heave. Three companies estimated a repair cost ranging from $2,100 to $7,500. Because the estimates varied so widely, we hired
Columbus Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
to assess the extent of the problem. Mr. Galko showed up at the appointed time, did a thorough inspection, shared his unofficial impressions, and followed up with a written report documenting his findings. The report included an evaluation of the soil condition; this additional information persuaded our chosen contractor to redo the footer and supporting wall as well as the garage floor. The $295 report added another $4,500 to the cost of the concrete job, and it was worth every penny.
- LAURA & DENNIS F.
A

Rating
I came home at lunch to check the progress. They had started around 7:00 a.m. I think. They had run into a snag because the job estimator did not account for the lower than average ceiling height. They had to cut a little off of each I-beam, but were still finished, cleaned up, and gone by the time I came back at 2:40 p.m.
- Scott P.

Structural Engineers in Columbus

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

AAA Engineering LLC

206 Chapelfield Rd
Columbus

ABLE BUILDERS & INSPECTING

6690 CANAAN CIR
Dublin

ADE GROUP

2014 ZETTLER RD
Columbus

ADVANCED CIVIL DESIGN

422 BEECHER RD
Columbus

ADVANCED ENGINEERING CONSLNTS

1405 Dublin Rd
Columbus

ADVANCED INTEGRATION LLC

4601 HILTON CORPORATE DR
Columbus

ADVANCED TECHNOLOGY SYSTEM INC

88 E BROAD ST
Columbus

ALE

6797 N HIGH ST
Columbus

AMSCON ENGINEERING

PO Box 141251
Columbus

AMT SYSTEMS ENGINEERING

1760 ZOLLINGER RD
Columbus

ANCO EAGLIN

1519 DOTEN AVE
Columbus

ATC ASSOC INC

950 TAYLOR STATION RD
Columbus

BAKER & ASSOC

2720 AIRPORT DR
Columbus

BARR & PREVOST

2800 CORPORATE EXCHANGE DR240
Columbus

BARR & PREZOST ENGINEERING

2800 CORPORATE EXCHANGE DR
Columbus

BARR ENGINEERING

5710 WESTBOURNE AVE
Columbus

BENNETT & WILLIAMS INC

2700 E DUBLIN GRANVILLE
Columbus

BIRD + BULL INC

2875 W DUBLIN-GRANVILLE RD
Columbus

BRH GROUP

751 Northwest Blvd Ste 300
Columbus

BURGESS & NIPLE INC

5085 REED RD
Columbus

CMJ ENGINEERING LTD

PO BOX 21290
Columbus

COLUMBUS CONSULTANTS

596 GLENRIDGE PL
Columbus

COLUMBUS STEEL CASTINGS CO

2211 PARSONS AVE
Columbus

COMMUNICATIONS ENGINEERING

6877 N HIGH ST
Columbus

COMPILED DESIGNS

803 CAROWAY BLVD
Columbus

CONCEPT ENGINEERING

4708 TRABUE RD
Columbus

CORDES ENGINEERING INC

354 COLDWELL CT
Columbus

Craine Engineering

PO Box 999
Worthington

Criterium Liszkay Engineers

110 N HIGH ST
Columbus

CROP PRODUCTION SVC INC

615 Hilliard Rome Rd Ste A
Columbus

CTL ENGINEERING INC

2860 FISHER RD
Columbus

Custom Home Works

6777 Ulry Rd
Westerville

CUTNFAB SYSTEMS INC

6925 AMERICANA PKWY
Columbus

DLM Engineering

260 Pampas Ct
Columbus

DMJM HARRIS

2800 CORPORATE EXCHANGE
Columbus

DONAN ENGINEERING

6848 Caine Rd
Columbus

DTS

4770 INDIANOLA AVE
Columbus

DUNN CONSULTANTS

6836 MCGREEGOR ST
Columbus

DYNAMIX ENGINEERING

855 Grandview Ave
Columbus

DYNOTEC INC

2931 E Dublin Granville Rd Ste 200
Columbus

E B ADVANCED

454 E MAIN ST
Columbus

E M ENGINEERING GROUP LTD

143 E Main St # 201
Columbus

EASTON ENVIRONMENTAL ENGINEERS

1372 GRANDVIEW AVE
Columbus

EFFECTIVE LIGHTING SOLUTIONS

1015 E MAIN ST
Columbus

ELECTRICAL DESIGN SVC

9118 ANTARES AVE
Columbus

EMA INC

3021 BETHEL RD
Columbus

ENGINEERING MECHANICS CORP

3518 RIVERSIDE DR
Columbus

ENGINEERING SUPPORT SVC

130 E CHESTNUT ST
Columbus

FACILITY DESIGN INC

2723 SAWBURY BLVD
Columbus

FISHEL TECHNOLOGIES

1600 Walcutt Rd
Columbus

FLOYD BROWNE GROUP

7965 N High St Ste 340
Columbus

H C NUTTING CO

790 MORRISON RD
Columbus

HEAPY ENGINEERING

1800 Watermark Dr
Columbus

HLG ENGINEERING & SURVEYING

705 LAKEVIEW PLAZA BLVD
Columbus

HNTB CORP

330 W SPRING ST
Columbus

Hydra Basement Waterproofing

236 E Torrence Rd
Columbus

INNOTECH ENGINEERING INC

3840 AGLER RD
Columbus

INNOVATIVE DESIGN ENGINEERING

182 E LONG ST
Columbus

INNOVATIVE ENGINEERING GROUP

1901 E Dublin Granville Rd # 204
Columbus

JENNY ENGINEERING CORP

6121 HUNTLEY RD
Columbus

K & G Contracting

355 Iris Trail Dr
Galloway

KABIL ASSOCIATES INC

5900 SHARON WOODS BLVD
Columbus

KAHOE AIR BALANCE CO

1000 Taylor Station Rd Ste F
Columbus

KENEXIS

3366 Riverside Dr Ste 200
Columbus

KNOWLEDGE GROUP

950 MICHIGAN AVE
Columbus

KORDA

1650 WATERMARK DR
Columbus

KRAMER ENGINEERS

394 OAK ST
Columbus

L-3 AVIONICS SYSTEMS

1105 SCHROCK RD
Columbus

LARSEN ENGINEERING INC

4662 LARWELL DR
Columbus

LEWIS ENGINEERING

3260 Henderson Rd Ste 110
Columbus

MALCOLM PIRNIE INC

1900 POLARIS PKWY
Columbus

MANUFACTURING ENGINEERING INC

2850 Fisher Rd # 105
Columbus

MC CARTHY ENVIRONMENTAL

100 FENWAY RD
Columbus

MEGLAN MEGLAN & CO LTD

252 S 4TH ST
Columbus

METCALF & EDDY

2800 CORPORATE EXCHANGE DR
Columbus

MINDWARE TECHNOLOGIES LTD

1020 Taylor Station Rd
Columbus

MOBILE MINI INC

871 BUCKEYE PARK RD
Columbus

MWH AMERICAS INC

1801 Watermark Dr Ste 220
Columbus

New Avenue, LLC

4740 Reed Rd Ste 201
Columbus

O & S ASSOC INC

471 E BROAD ST
Columbus

OHIO OPERATING ENGINEERS

1180 DUBLIN RD
Columbus

ON THE SPOT ENTERPRISES

3982 POWELL RD
Powell

P E SVC

51 N HIGH ST
Columbus

PANDEY ENVIRONMENTAL LLC

4100 Horizons Dr # 205
Columbus

PAUL J FORD & CO

250 E BROAD ST
Columbus

PHANTOM TECHNICAL SVC

111 OUTERBELT ST
Columbus

POMEROY & ASSOC

599 SCHERERS CT
Columbus

PRECISION MACHINE TOOL TECHS

1625 W Mound St
Columbus

ProCheck Engineering Inc

700 Morse Rd
Columbus

PROGRESSIVE CONSULTING ENGNR

4900 REED RD
Columbus

ProTech Basement Solutions LLC

16862 Old Mansfield Rd.
Fredericktown

QSV ENGINEERING SOLUTIONS

367 GREENGLADE AVE
Columbus

R M SMITH & ASSOC INC

7920 PRAIRIEVIEW DR
Columbus

R W ARMSTRONG & ASSOC INC

471 E BROAD ST
Columbus

RD ZANDE & ASSOCIATES INC

1500 LAKE SHORE DR
Columbus

RESOURCE INTERNATIONAL INC

6350 PRESIDENTIAL GTWY
Columbus

RIBWAY ENGINEERING GROUP

300 E BROAD ST
Columbus

Rising Height Unlimited

2420 Performance Pkwy
Columbus

RIVER CONSULTING

3000 CORPORATE EXCHANGE DR4
Columbus

RJS CONSTRUCTION SERVICES

6179 MEMORIAL DR
Dublin

RL Partners

PO Box 3
Columbus

RM Home Services

324 Ely Street
Washington Court House

RMT INC

670 Morrison Rd Ste 250
Columbus

ROBERT H FULLER & ASSOC

5151 REED RD
Columbus

ROGER D FIELDS & ASSOC

4588 KENNY RD
Columbus

Rogers Basement Waterproofing

3557 E Fulton St
Columbus

Safway Services LLC., Columbus

1250 Emig Road
Columbus

SANDS DECKER CPS

4588 KENNY RD
Columbus

SCHULER INC

5715 WESTBOURNE AVE
Columbus

SHD-Structural Home Designers

200 Granger Road
Medina

SHELLEY METZ BAUMANN HAWK INC

1166 DUBLIN RD
Columbus

SHIRK & O'DONOVAN CONSULTING

370 E WILSON BRIDGE RD
Columbus

SILO ENGINEERS & CONSULTANTS

1103 SCHROCK RD
Columbus

SITE INVESTIGATIONS INC

1425 E DUBLIN GRANVILLE RD
Columbus

SOFT SCAPE OUTDOOR LIGHTING

378 E 12TH AVE
Columbus

SplashScapes

2626 Trottersway Dr
Columbus

STAR CONSULTANTS INC

1910 Crown Park Ct
Columbus

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATES

830 N HAGUE AVE
Columbus

Unlimited Production

6365
Westerville

W E MONKS & CO

3073 N HIGH ST
Columbus

W R BIRD & COMPANY

4525 INDIANOLA AVE
Columbus

W W MERRELL PE

2345 ARLINGTON AVE
Columbus

WATCON CONSULTING

83 Shull Ave
Columbus

WELDING CONSULTANTS INC

889 N 22ND ST
Columbus

WELDING ENGINEERING TCHNLGS

1165 CHAMBERS RD
Columbus

WILBUR SMITH ASSOC

8800 Lyra Dr Ste 500
Columbus

WOOLPERT LLP

2760 AIRPORT DR
Columbus

WRIST ENGINEERING

11747 BALLAH RD
Orient

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