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A
"Everyone is nice and professional when things go perfectly. But you really see what people are made of when things don't go so perfectly. Through no fault" or negligence on their part, just weird bad luck, they slightly damaged my driveway. We talked things through, they came back out to see the damage, and did what they had to, to make things right. They were calm, courteous, and professional throughout the discussions. These are good guys.

-DOUG B.

A
"Quick response and schedule. Arrived on time, explained well how the work would be done, performed installation as agreed, performed walk through with us after" installation. All debris was hauled away and work area cleaned. Professional and easy to work with. I wanted to wait until we had a hard rain to assure the system performed as intended. It has, no water pooling around on on the patio. problem solved. Would recommend this contractor to others needing exterior drainage work performed.

-PAT L.

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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

Drain Pipe Installation reviews in Cincinnati

A

Rating
Had ordered wrong system, New system available immediately no delay in work for customer. They were there when we needed help with the right product.
- William S.
A

Rating
I was extremely pleased to find Mr. who could provide quality services at a tremendous value compared to other contractors. I received 3 bids that ranged from 50 to over 100% the bid by Mr. . Now, there is a reason why he can do this at such a reasonable price, and Mr. ensured ...More from the beginning that we have reasonable expectations. First and foremost, he has another full time job as a school teacher and does this on the afternoons and weekends (save Sundays). Therefore, he has a wait at times and larger jobs (like mine) can stretch out over a week. However, he has been doing this work for over 20 years and owns most of his own equipment. Second, starting the work is very much dependent on the weather (can't do when ground is sopping wet or frozen), so if there is a long string of rain, it can delay jobs. So we saw this as a desirable trade off. We had no trouble being flexible around the work start date or how long it took, and therefore we were able to get this quality work done at a tremendous value. There are a number of other advantages of working with Mr. . First, he essentially does all the work himself - that way you know there are no subs or temporary laborers that might cut corners. Second, he is meticulous and takes pride in getting it down right - analyzing the grading multiple times along each run, using the proper quality PVC pipe, gluing all the connections thoroughly, and making sure the connections to the downspout all appear clean and straight. Third, he is clearly an honest, ethical, friendly guy who is a pleasure to have around the house.
My house was a really big job to handle the drainage around a 3000 sf ranch home (a lot of roof) requiring four long runs of PVC. There was a little delay getting started due to rain, but his wife who runs the office of the business was very communicative. The job took longer than he expected I think and to make sure he completed it within the week he started, he worked into the night on a Saturday with large spot lights. Prior to getting this work done, our basement sump pump ran constantly, even when it hadn't rained in weeks. Now we only hear it go off only occasionally - which is incredibly reassuring.
In summary, I highly recommend Mr. if you can be flexible with your start date, and don't mind it taking a little longer. In the end, the job will be done right or better at a much lower price than many competitors.
- Michael R.
B

Rating
It is difficult to get an appt because the owner is a teacher and the wife has many children; she handles the appointments. Eventually I did get a quote, but because the owner doesn't keep notes, he doesn't remember what he quotes or says. We agreed on a price and he eventually got the work done. It took awhile (6 weeks?) because he had other ...More clients ahead of me and there were also weather issues. I had my basement waterproofed right after this and the owner of the waterproofing company told me the trench was not done correctly as it was pitched wrong. I don't know if that is true or not, but I did have come back and he said if I removed all the rocks from the trench he would come and bring more and fill it up as the rocks seem to be disappearing, perhaps pushed in by the workers' footsteps from the waterproof company? So I cleared out the rocks, saw the pitch of the trench was going the wrong way, took a picture, and sent it to Mrs. . After a number of calls he came out (maybe again 6 weeks later)? He did the trench again. He doesn't understand why the pitch was wrong because he uses a laser; I don't understand why he is so unresponsive and seemingly overwhelmed? He wondered if he should give up teaching and just do the company... I don't know, but I do know that doing both seems to overwhelm their family. Nice and honest people, if you have the patience, I think you can trust them. My patience does have a limit though.

- Cheryl H.
A

Rating
Altas services were prompt, professional, fast and very neat. The drainage line was well done with no interruption to side walks and minimal upset to the yard. The area dug up was well contained, seeded and covered when they were finished. The drainage is now working well and yard without scar.
- Seth W.
A

Rating
They did a great job. Our waterline was replaced in less then a day. Other contractors wanted to cut through our porch or take out our driveway. I would recommend Exc. to anyone who needs a waterline replacement.
- Amy J.
A

Rating
Had everything done in one day. Stayed until main sewer drain was clear to street. Arrived when they said they would, and called to let me know they were on their way. Very courteous and professional. I would recommend them to anyone.
- Betty E.
A

Rating
The initial objectives was to outline a plan for creating an external trench to stop the water seepage into my basement. However upon the home inspection, and determined that just doing the external trenching would not fix my overall leaking basement walls and that I really needed to get a proposal from ...More a basement water proofing company. The additional service that they provided was to inspect the external drains with visual optics the two outside, and the internal stand pipe. Though intact and not broken, each were moderately clogged, which they vacuumed, removing chunks of concrete stones and gravel and sediment. Now, when I obtain the services for water proofing the walls, I have the documentation that the property has a combination sewer to which the water proofing company can tie into. Both and did a great job, careful, methodical, and skilled. They answered all my questions so that I understood the issues and could make informed decisions.
- Margaret S.
A

Rating
and crew arrived 10 minutes early for an 8am start time and were able to get to work, even though the materials were not delivered until 9:15am (ordered through Lowe's). I ordered the fence through Lowe's and . were contracted through Lowe's, but I would use them again independently. They ...More completed the work in a timely manner, even with a few back steps beyond their control (rain the day before, narrower property line than expected, trees in the way of the line). The fence line looks good and is plumb all the way around the yard, and was able to sustain the dog jumping on it immediately after installation. Everything was cleaned up afterwards, and no unnecessary mess was made of the yard, despite the rain the day before!
- Ann W.

Drain Pipe Contractors in Cincinnati

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A Little Hvac Company

Po Box 45
Cleves

A-Abel

440 Congress Park Dr
Centerville

A1 Services

21 Catalpa Ave

ABC Plumbing

923 Thornton

Anderson Hills Plumbing & Supply Inc

6229 Beechmont Ave
Cincinnati

AquaProof Inc

12097 Mosteller Rd
Cincinnati

Atlas Drainage Systems

3253 Werk Road
Cincinnati

Atonik Enterprises, LLC.

6665 Muddy Creek Rd
Cincinnati

B & B Remodeling & Renovation LLC

6364 W Fork Rd
Cincinnati

B&M Construction

2829 Queen City Ave
Cincinnati

Basement Restoration Technologies

12145 Centron Pl
Cincinnati

Beautiful Earth

2494 Johnnytown Rd
Batavia

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

756 Old State Rt 74
Cincinnati

BEST Plumbing

8950 Glendale Milford Rd
Loveland

BLUE CHIP PLUMBING

1950 Waycross Rd.
Cincinnati

C J Hughes & Sons Plumbing Co

12055 Bridgeport Ln
Cincinnati

Camelot Homes & Services

1160 State Route 28
Milford

Camery Property Services

1007 Shayler Rd
Cincinnati

Carol's Custom Concrete

7006 Clovernoll Dr
North Collage Hill

Cincinnati Horticulture Group Inc

PO Box 43467
Cincinnati

Cincy Premier

9892 Meadow Hills Dr
Cincinnati

Classy Craftsmen

1445 Colonial Dr
Cincinnati

CME Services Inc

1061 Skillman Dr
Cincinnati

coffmans sanitation solutions

117 King Ave
South Lebanon

Complete Home Restorations

1667 First Ave
Cincinnati

Copperhead Excavating

16210 McGuire Ridge Rd

D & P Plumbing

2634 Jackson Pike
Batavia

D.C. Plumbing

4215 Beechgrove Drive

Dash Home Improvement

24937 Pleasant Trail
Cleveland

David Vogel Landscape Company

4637 TEALTOWN RD
Batavia

Davidson Landscape LLC

1710 Clough Pike
Batavia

Deck Masters

225 E Broadway Ave
Westerville

DICK SCOTT PLUMBING INC

619 Delhi Ave
Cincinnati

DILLINGHAM'S PLUMBING

8643 RIDGECREST DR
West Chester

Dimensions Inc

5166 Sugar Camp Rd
Milford

directional technology solutions

6032 marsh cir
Loveland

DuPont Plumbing

2604 Alexandria Pike

DURHAM LANDSCAPE

3991 GARDNER LN
Cincinnati

Eagle Creek Landscape & Design LLC

7574 Eagle Creek Rd
Cincinnati

ELLIOTT & BRADLEY PLUMBING INC

10030 WINDISCH RD
West Chester

ENFINGER LANDSCAPING

7806 SCHOOL RD
Cincinnati

Ever-Clean Gutter System of Ohio LLC

5841 deerfield rd
Milford

Everdry Waterproofing of Cincinnati

9814 Harwood Ct
Fairfield

EverGreen Contractors

6242 Avebury Ct
Morrow

Ferman Excavating

20181 Cupps Chapel Rd

GAGP Industries

6014 Deerfield Rd.
Goshen

Gary Kramer Company

5915 Day Road
Cincinnati

Geiler Home Services

6561 Glenway Ave
Cincinnati

GENESIS HOME ENHANCEMENT

7657 Athenia Dr
Cincinnati

GEORGE BRANDSTETTER & SONS CO

2656 State Route 222
Bethel

Gib's Plumbing

432 Ridgelawn Ave
Hamilton

Godsey Construction

604 Elwood St.

Grasshopper Landscaping LLC

5391 Wooster Rd
Cincinnati

Greater Dayton Construction Group

4197 Research Blvd
Dayton

Hall's Construction Co.

2600 Lincoln Ave.

Halpin Plumbing Inc

7749 Reinhold Dr
Cincinnati

Handy Fireman LLC

5610 beech grove
Milford

HATHAWAY CONSTRUCTION INC

Spyglass
Fairfield

Hawks Contracting LLC

7270 Maple Leaf Ct
Liberty Township

Help Plumbing Heating Cooling and Electric

6 N Commerce Park Dr
Cincinnati

Henry Excavating Inc

8603 St Rt 42
West Chester

Herrmann Services

8256 Clara Ave
Cincinnati

Hoffman Home Services

1454 Melinda Ln

HOLMES BLACKTOP & CONCRETE

6024 Harrison Ave
Cincinnati

Holtmeier Plumbing Co Inc

6310 Madison Rd
Cincinnati

Home Pro Solutions

7211 Bridges Rd
Cincinnati

HONTHY TRENCHING

816 STERLING DR
Lebanon

INs and OUTs

9131 Trinidad Dr
Cincinnati

J.R. Thomas Landscaping Inc

10464 State Rte 48
Loveland

Jaco Waterproofing

4350 Wade Mill Rd
Fairfield

JD Dunninaday Landscapes

PO Box 8632
Cincinnati

JEFFREY ALLEN CORP

3662 POOLE RD
Cincinnati

JEST Enterprises LLC

4280 Mt. Carmel Tobasco Rd.
Cincinnati

Jim Eckhoff Plumbing

2942 Jonrose Ave
Cincinnati

JIM THE PLUMBER LLC

6168 FAIRWAY DR
Cincinnati

Joe Klosterman Plumbing

4424 Monroe St
Hooven

Johnson Construction & Services

4497 Katie lane
Oxford

Jolly Plumbing

101 Beacon Drive

Jones the Plubmer

3797 Sagebrush Lane
Cincinnati

Jose General Construction LLC

9525 Refugee Road
Pickerington

K & P Plumbing

Cincinnati

K Brown Construction

9993 Union Cemetery Rd
Loveland

KBC Services

9993 union cemetery rd

KELLY PLUMBING CO

7353 MONTGOMERY RD
Cincinnati

Kemphaus Plumbing

10035 Prechtel Rd
Cincinnati

Ken Herbert Plumbing

2176 Megrue Dr

Kenny's Crane Service

3834 Roundbottom Rd
Cincinnati

Kevin Hughes Construction

2902 W McMicken Ave
Cincinnati

King's Plumbing

8150 Regal Ln
West Chester

L B I MONARCH CO

Cincinnati

Lacy Home Improvements

3524 State Route 222
Batavia

Lawson Design & Build

6445 Springdale Rd
Cincinnati

Lemke Plumbing

233 NAVAHO DR
Loveland

LEWIN PLUMBING

4312 WATTERSON ST
Cincinnati

Liberty Services

PO Box 412
West Chester

Lux Tree Service

160 Waxwing Dr
Cincinnati

M CRUTCHER LANDSCPG & NURSERY

4870 BENTON RD
Batavia

M Squared Construction Company

8184 Althaus Road
Cincinnati

MAPES BUILDERS

4870 IMPERIAL DR
Hamilton

MARK HUGHES PLUMBING

8724 NEPTUNE
Cincinnati

Marvin's Organic Gardens

Marvins Organic Gardens
Lebanon

MASTER PLUMBING, INC

1676 Butler Warren Rd
Middletown

Matrka Renovation and Painting, LLC

3043 Wayne Road
Wilmington

Mid West Grounds

40 W Crescentville Rd
West Chester

MIDWESTERN PLUMBING SERVICE INC

3984 BACH BUXTON RD
Amelia

Mis Handyman

Cincinnati

Mr Rooter Plumbing Of Cleveland

8200 E. Pleasant Valley Rd
Independence

Mr. Rooter of Greater Cincinnati

9320 Sutton Place
Hamilton

Murray Excavating

5169 Ky Hwy 1992

NEIHEISEL PLUMBING INC

2670 Crescent Springs Pike,

Nieman Plumbing

2030 Stapleton Ct
Cincinnati

Nixco Plumbing Inc

4281 State Rte 42
Mason

NOLAN EXCAVATING & CONTRACTING

518 Park Ave
Harrison

Novel Whole Home Services

774 Sutton Road
Cincinnati

OHMER CONTRACTING INC

576 Buckshire Glen

Onsite Contractors, LLC

P.O. Box 11052
Cincinnati

Outside Insight

1709 Ludlow Cir
Amelia

PAPNER CONSTRUCTION and LANDSCAPING llc

964 ANDERSON FERRY
Cincinnati

Partnership Property Services

11005 St Rte 128
Hamilton

Pinpoint Utility Inspection Services

2540 Eastridge Drive
Hamilton

Plum Perfect Plumbing

5990 Winton Road
Fairfield

PLUMB TITE Plumbing

8442 Vine Street
Cincinnati

PPR Home Maintenance Co.

2866 Resor Road
Fairfield

Precision Handyman

7607 Schroeder Ct
Hamilton

Premier Landscape Supplies INC

1566 Ebenezer Rd
Cincinnati

PTS CONSTRUCTION

5850 COTTONTAIL CT
Cincinnati

Quality Waterproofing OD LLC

P.O. BOX 752282
Dayton

Queen City Pressure Washing

988 Pamela Rd
Cincinnati

Queen City Stone

524 Shade Road
Cincinnati

R S General Contracting

422 East Frogtown Rd

Ray St Clair Roofing

3810 Port Union Rd
Fairfield

Rebholz Landscaping

807 Mohican Dr
Loveland

ResCom360

7025 Harrison Avenue

RLS PLUMBING

9835 LAKEVIEW DR
Cincinnati

Roto Rooter

Milford

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

2125 Montana Ave
Cincinnati

S & E SMITH'S REMODELING

8025 Beech ave
Cincinnati

Schmeh's Plumbing LLC

5938 Wilmer Rd
Cincinnati

Schwab Landscaping

5587 North State Route 48
Lebanon

Scott Services Inc

40 KY HWY 3149

Setzers Lawncare & Landscaping

3216 New Year Drive
Cincinnati

Shamrock Trenching & Gutters

1931 Main St
Goshen

Simply Better Diversified

423 Cherryhill Lane

Smith Contracting

3175 BlueAcres Dr
Cincinnati

Sohan & Sons Waterproofing Co

8543 Deer Path
West Chester

Solid Vision Construction

2304 Moerlein Ave
Cincinnati

Southwest Plumbing

3106 Layhigh Rd
Hamilton

Stan Young Drainage LLC

818 Highland Ave

Stauffer Enterprises

4135 Socialville-Foster Rd
Mason

STEWART DEVELOPMENT

234 FORESTWOOD DR
Cincinnati

Stone Brothers Inc

4005 Dumont St
Cincinnati

Sturgis Plumbing Co

3816 Montgomery Rd
Cincinnati

Supreme Scapes

3857 Settle Road
Cincinnati

SURROUNDINGS INC

680 BAXTER RD
Loveland

T.P.'s Roofing & Exterior

246 S Ashbrook Cir

Tarvin Plumbing

3749 Eastern Ave.
Cincinnati

TENSING CONTRACTORS INC

4201 BLUE ROCK RD
Cincinnati

The Basement Doctor

7369 E Livingston Ave
Reynoldsburg

The Basement Guys

1633 Thornwood Dr
Heath

The Frank Niesen Company

500 W. SHARON RD
Cincinnati

The Gutter Magician Inc

519 Enterprise Drive

The Service Pros

407 Northland Blvd.
Cincinnati

THE UNDERGROUND DETECTIVE

9192 Colerain Ave
Cincinnati

thecincihandyman.com

PO Box 498245
Cincinnati

Thomas Lawn & Landscape

142 Churchill Ct
Loveland

TISCHBEIN CO INC

5690 THOMARIDGE CRT
Cincinnati

TMT Turf Solutions LLC

68 Rockwood Ave

Tony's Drain Cleaning

1941 Parrish Ave
Hamilton

TruBlue Cincinnati : Total House Care

5378 Palisades Drive
Cincinnati

VALOR CONSTRUCTION

1128 W Ohio Pike
Amelia

VULCAN WATERPROOFING CO

5513 VINE ST
Cincinnati

W.D. Services

929 Dayton Pike

Wake Plumbing

7004 Oak Street

Walker "Heat & Air "

620 20th ave.
Middletown

Warren's Landscaping Inc

1334 State Route 131
Milford

Watson Carpentry

5015 McKay Rd
Batavia

William Brown Plumbing

2872 Stahlheber Rd
Hamilton

WM LIGHT PAVING CO

PO Box 250
Amelia

WOLFE LANDSCAPING INC

22 owl ridge lane
Milford

Wyoming Remodeling & Redesign

9949 Springfield Pike Ste A
Cincinnati

Zimax Inc.

1193 State Route 131
Milford

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