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F
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sent someone out to our home to assess whether or not our roof could support a deck. She was here for 10 minutes. Took measurements through" a can light. She said she would get a report to us by the evening because she was going on vacation. We didn't hear back from her until 3 days later, and that was after several phone calls on our end. She sent a brief email stating that she called a truss company. The truss company said that they did not provide the trusses for our home. Based on this one phone call she said we would not be able to build a deck. I inquired how she came to that conclusion & she said she made a "general assumption" based on the phone call. What? $250 for a phone call & no true answer? I didn't need to spend $250 to have you make a phone call for us. When I called the office to speak with the manager she was incredibly rude and the conversation ended with her hanging up on me. I was simply trying to understand how they could take $250 from me for absolutely no work provided and no answers. Do not use this company. They have no integrity and horrible customer service. Take your money elsewhere.

-Kim O.

A
"
was extremely responsive and punctual. He inspected the support beams and posts in the basement of my 120 year-old house, particularly 2" beams that had previously been cut to make room for a stairwell to the basement. He made a detailed survey both inside and outside the house and provided details recommendations for two options to solve the structural support problems.

-MARIA C.

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Local Articles in Chicago

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depend on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing structural damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

Wet basement floor with mold
Structural Engineering, Basement Waterproofing

A structural engineer explains why to hire an engineer and draft a plan before repairing a wet basement or crawl space.

Interior remodeling project, in progress.
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Dear Angie: How much should it cost to remove a wall? We want to take out about 9.5 feet of a wall that runs from an exterior wall of the house to an interior wall. – Jenny H., Tampa, Florida

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earthquake retrofit
Remodeling - General, Structural Engineering

Earthquakes can strike out of nowhere and cause major damage to your home. Consider these tips to protect your home from earthquake damage.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Chicago

A

Rating
We really enjoyed working with
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
! In fact, we are having them back next week to discuss a second project. Their work is top notch. They are fast, great communicators, efficient, and fair with pricing.
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
Lewandowki, the president of the company, came out to our house to assess the project and even came back a second time to make sure we were comfortable with the plan. He was also on-site for both days of the project.
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
's crew was wonderful and left the job site perfectly clean. We consider
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
our best Angie's List find. We couldn't recommend them more highly.
- MIRANDA J.
A

Rating
After noticing the floors had dropped in a condo unit,
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was contacted. They were very responsive. An engineer was sent within two days. In addition they were very flexible in scheduling: they worked around my work schedule. The engineer was prompt and very knowledgeable: he was able to answer all my questions. Since it was not an emergency situation, a sketch was e-mailed to me a week later.
- Judy W.
A

Rating
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and his team did a fantastic job of diagnosing the problems we had with our basement. They provided clear, detailed suggestions for different approaches in terms of time and cost that we could take. When we first met with them, we had an idea of the project that could have worked, but they recommended a solution that was actually simpler and cheaper and still accomplished what we wanted to do with our basement. Their workers were friendly, neat, and professional, and the work they completed looks excellent. We even had a big set of built in wooden shelves that needed to be removed to get to the area that needed work, and at our request their men did a fantastic job of disassembling the shelves in a way that would allow me to rebuild them as they were before. Throughout the entire process I really appreciated their honesty, flexibility, and professionalism. I would definitely recommend
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and will contact them in the future for any similar work I need done.
- Samuel N.
A

Rating
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was fantastic to work with!
My initial conversation had me asking all kinds of questions and expressing multiple concerns as a first time home owner with a structural issue.
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
took the time to listen and explain everything to me in a manner I could comprehend.
On site,
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
was dedicated, patient and again took his time to answer questions and point everything out to me. His interactions with the contractor, who was also on site, was professional and honest. I also received some great advice in selecting a contractor to perform the work and recommendations of his experience with some of them.
Would use again in a heartbeat.
- Brian L.
A

Rating
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
were fantastic to work with throughout the entire project. What really stood out was their attention to detail and patience to answer a plethora of questions we had as new home owners.
A major factor we learned early on was that this company knows what their area of expertise is, and doesn't just try and guess at things that may be outside of their scope. For example, at our initial consultation it was suggested we bring a structural engineer in because while
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
could speculate they were not going to be able to provide the definitive answers/solutions needed. You would think this is common sense for a contractor but my experience has been that many want to get in and get out of the job, that's it. This concept of deferring to others was also confirmed through the structural engineer we hired when we asked about his previous work with
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
. He appreciates the fact
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
and
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
do not take the sketches/drawings and make modifications; if they have an alternative solution or question once the job has commenced, they call up the engineer and talk it through. This actually happened on our project and saved us from cutting into multiple walls and unnecessary work.
Friendly, straightforward, polite and cleaned up when finished.
On one hand I will definitely use
Chicago Structural Engineers Provider Name Locked
again in the future if I have any structural issue to contend with. Having said that, I kind of hope I never have to call them again ... if you know what I mean.


- Brian L.
D

Rating
I contacted this provider via their website to obtain an estimate for a second story addition. They called me back in approximately 2 days and left a message. I called back the next day and spoke with a lady who seemed to be a family member of the contractor. I left all my contact information and was told the contractor would call me right back. I was never contacted again by this company.
- John M.
B

Rating
E-mailed the firm to see if they could assist with a sagging floor our home seems to be experiencing. Had a structural contractor come out and assess the situation and he suggested further inspection from an engineer.
Received a very timely and polite reply stating that due to their schedule they could not assist us at this time.
- Brian L.
A

Rating
I bought a new condo they needed the carpet removed, additional closet space and storage, lighting fixtures, electrical work, kitchen back splash and a feeling of home. Ed and his team made all of that happen and more. I still need a lot more work done but they made it feel more like a home then ever before.
- Tatonya T.

Structural Engineers in Chicago

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

12/12 ARCHITECTS & PLANNERS

644 67TH ST
Downers Grove

1335 ASTOR COOPERATIVE BLDG

1335 N ASTOR ST
Chicago

21M GROUP

203 N WABASH AVE
Chicago

Abbey Group LLC

2628 Arbor Dr

ABM ENGINEERING

180 N La Salle St Ste 1700
Chicago

ABNA OF ILLINOIS

9901 S WESTERN AVE
Chicago

ACCURATE ENGINEERING LABORATOR

2707 W CHICAGO AVE
Chicago

ADVANCE CONSULTING GROUP INTL

300 W ADAMS ST
Chicago

Advanced Roofing & Construction

47 West Polk St
Chicago

ALA Architects & Planners, Inc.

2600 Behan Road
Crystal Lake

ALFRED BENESCH & COMPANY

205 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

ALFRED G RONA LTD

230 W MONROE ST
Chicago

All Quality Inc

6348 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago

ALLAN H GOLD STRUCTURAL ENGR

123 W Madison St Ste 1600
Chicago

ALPHA ENGINEERING LTD

27 E Monroe St Ste 700
Chicago

ALVORD BURDICK & HOWSON

125 S WACKER DR
Chicago

AMD Remodeling And Painting

1924 73 Road Court
Elmwood Park

AMERIBUILD INC

8700 W BRYN MAWR AVE
Chicago

AMERICAN BOA

407 S DEARBORN ST
Chicago

AMERICAN SCIENCE & TECH CORP

1324 W GRAND AVE
Chicago

AMTECH ASSOCIATES INC

6166 N Sheridan Rd Apt 2L
Chicago

APEX CONSULTING ENGINEERS LLC

111 E Wacker Dr Ste 520
Chicago

ARCADIS GERAGHTY & MILLER INC

35 E WACKER DR
Chicago

ARI General Contractors

131 Normandy Dr.
Addison

Asrow Building Consultants, Inc.

8820 Skokie Blvd.
Skokie

Atlas Restoration LLC

11441 Melrose Ave.
Franklin Park

B CUBE INC

710 N FAIRBANKS CT
Chicago

B P BITUMEN

200 E RANDOLPH ST
Chicago

B T CUT BRICK

42471 n linden ln
Antioch

BAKER ENGINEERING INC

311 W Monroe St Ste 1350
Chicago

BBL

30 W MONROE ST
Chicago

Berg Engineering & Sales Company, Inc.

3893 Industrial Ave.
Rolling Meadows

BERITUS

527 S Wells St Fl 7
Chicago

BLOOM CONSULTANTS LLC

600 W FULTON ST
Chicago

BOLLINGER LACH & ASSOC

8700 W BRYN MAWR AVE
Chicago

BURNS MC DONNELL

300 W ADAMS ST
Chicago

C C JOHNSON & MALHOTRA

550 W WASHINGTON BLVD
Chicago

CALOR DESIGN GROUP

2217 N WESTERN AVE
Chicago

CARLSON ARCHITECTURE LTD

334 E Colfax St
Palatine

Chapple West Inc

103 N 11th Ave Ste 131
Saint Charles

CHARIS KAGIS

3450 W IRVING PARK RD
Chicago

CHAWLA & ASSOC INC

111 W WASHINGTON ST
Chicago

Chicago Adjusting Co.

7312 W Lawrence Ave
Harwood Heights

CHICAGO CHEM CONSULTANTS CORP

14 N PEORIA ST
Chicago

CHRIS GLENN

219 N JUSTINE ST
Chicago

CHRISTIAN BINGHAM

5517 W CHICAGO AVE
Chicago

CIORBA GROUP INC

5507 N CUMBERLAND AVE
Chicago

CIVIL GROUP ENGINEERING

203 N WABASH AVE
Chicago

CIVILGROUP ENGINEERING

203 N WABASH AVE
Chicago

CLARENCE J REICH

1400 W EDGEWATER AVE
Chicago

CLARK DIETZ INC

118 S CLINTON ST
Chicago

CLEAN WORLD ENGINEERING LTD

70 W MADISON ST
Chicago

COLLINS ENGINEERS

123 N Wacker Dr Ste 900
Chicago

COMMAND ENGINEERING

5249 N LAWLER AVE
Chicago

CONCRETE STRUCTURES OF MIDWEST

1845 WESTERN DR
West Chicago

CONSOER TOWNSEND ENVIRODYNE

303 E WACKER DR
Chicago

CONTROL SYSTEMS INC

200 W MADISON ST
Chicago

COSMODOG LIMITED

415 W HURON ST
Chicago

COWHEY GUDMUNDSON LEDER LTD

212 W KINZIE ST
Chicago

Criterium Collins

419 Randolph St
Oak Park

CROWN FLUID POWER

6521 N ALBANY AVE
Chicago

CSA GREAT LAKES INC

21 W ILLINOIS ST
Chicago

CSI INTL

10 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

CTE ENGINEERS INC

303 E WACKER DR
Chicago

D & D ENGINEERING

1020 S WABASH AVE
Chicago

D & D ENGINEERING

641 W LAKE ST
Chicago

D & H PIPING ENGINEERS SWERS

5051 S WESTERN AVE
Chicago

dans construction

940 n n0ble
Chicago

DAVID MASON & ASSOC INC

464 N MILWAUKEE AVE
Chicago

DELTA ENGINEERING INC

111 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

DENES NAGY ASSOC LTD

680 N LAKE SHORE DR
Chicago

DESIGN INTEGRITY INC

1155 W Fulton Market
Chicago

DESIGNBRIDGE LTD.

1415 W Grand Ave
Chicago

Destiny Development Team

7538 W Touhy Ave
Chicago

DILLABAUGH INC

2005 E US 231

Domicile Consulting

2545 W. Diversey
Chicago

Draik Midwest Company, Inc.

623 Lilac Way
Lombard

DRUCKER ZAJDEL STRUCTURAL ENGR

223 W Jackson Blvd Ste 1220
Chicago

E ME ENGINEERS CONSULTANT

250 S WACKER DR
Chicago

EAGLE ENGINEERING LTD

5901 N CICERO AVE
Chicago

EAGLE ENGINEERING LTD

3525 W PETERSON AVE
Chicago

ECOLOGY & ENVIRONMENT INC

33 W Monroe St Ste 1410
Chicago

EJM ENGINEERING

411 S WELLS ST
Chicago

Elite Construction Company

1010 Jorie Blvd
Oak Brook

ENCOMPASS TECHNOLOGIES LTD

2542 N RIDGE AVE
Arlington Heights

ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS LTD

333 W WACKER DR
Chicago

ENVIRONMENTAL DESIGN INTL

33 W Monroe St Ste 1825
Chicago

ESKENAZI FARRELL & FODOR

125 S CLARK ST
Chicago

EXTERIOR BUILDING SOLUTIONS

2835 W HOWARD ST
Chicago

EYP MISSION CRITICAL FCLT

200 W ADAMS ST
Chicago

FACILITY GROUP INC

230 W MONROE ST
Chicago

FIVE STAR ENGINEERING CO

2650 W BRADLEY PL
Chicago

FLOOD TESTING LABORATORIES INC

1945 E 87TH ST
Chicago

FLUID ENGINEERING

495 WEGNER DR
West Chicago

FRANK P BLEIER PE

2756 N PINE GROVE AVE
Chicago

GAJIC ENGINEERING

5501 W IRVING PARK RD
Chicago

GASSMAN ENGINEERS INC

35 E WACKER DR
Chicago

Georgia & Company Construction Inc

875 N Michigan Ave
Chicago

GHAFARI KSO

360 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

GLOBETROTTERS

300 S WACKER DR
Chicago

GRAEF ANHALT SCHLOEMER & ASSOC

332 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

GRAEF ANHALT SCHLOEMER & ASSOC

8501 W HIGGINS RD
Chicago

Great Lakes Builders Inc

7606 W Devon Ave
Chicago

GREENFIELD PARTNERS

5601 N SHERIDAN RD
Chicago

H S NACHMAN & ASSOC INC

223 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

H W LOCHNER INC

225 W Washington St # 12
Chicago

Haggis II Construction

6400 N Northwest Hwy
Chicago

HALVORSON & KAYE

600 W CHICAGO AVE
Chicago

HANSON PROFESSIONAL SVC

203 N WABASH AVE
Chicago

HARDING ESE INC

5440 N CUMBERLAND AVE
Chicago

HIGHWAY SAFETY CORP

4650 W ROOSEVELT RD
Chicago

HNTB CORP

111 N CANAL ST
Chicago

HUCKLEBERRYFINNREPAIR SERVICE

308 E South St
Peotone

Hunt and Hunt Architects

40 Sequoia Road
Hawthorn Woods

HYDRO-THERMO-POWER INC

225 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

Illinois IR

847 S. Randall Rd
Elgin

INDUSTRIAL FACILITIES ENGRG

35 LAKEVIEW DR
North Chicago

INGENII LLC

105 N Oak Park Ave. #3C
Oak Park

INSPEC INC

8618 W CATALPA AVE
Chicago

INVENIUM INCORPORATED

3317 W EASTWOOD AVE
Chicago

IPSA CORP

1166 W Grand Ave
Chicago

J & C ENGINEERING

3711 N RAVENSWOOD AVE
Chicago

J & C ENGINEERING

1900 N AUSTIN AVE
Chicago

J MULLER INTL

400 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

J T General Contracting

141 Woodside Rd
Riverside

JACOBS EDWARDS & KELCEY INC

1 N FRANKLIN ST
Chicago

JACOBS ENGINEERING GROUP INC

222 S RIVERSIDE PLZ
Chicago

JACOBS ENGINEERING GROUP INC

525 W MONROE ST
Chicago

JAMES F ROWLAND

3033 N SHERIDAN RD
Chicago

JM Construction & Remodeling Inc.

3928 N. Osceola
Chicago

JOHN O LEWIS ENGINEERS & ARCHT

4312 S DR MARTIN LUTHER KIJG
Chicago

JOHNSON LIMITED

4651 N ELSTON AVE
Chicago

K.ENG LLC

1017 W Washington Blvd
Chicago

Kevin Lane | Architect

2637 N Talman
Chicago

KHATIB & ASSOC INC

111 N CANAL ST
Chicago

KIRKEGAARD ASSOCIATES

801 W ADAMS ST
Chicago

KLEIN & HOFFMAN INC

150 S WACKER DR
Chicago

Kobez Co.

1813 Vivian Way Ct.

KOENIGSBERG ENGINEERING PC

104 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

KOENIGSBERG ENGINEERING PC

1329 N Sandburg Terrace
Chicago

KRW CONSULTING GROUP

5903 N KILPATRICK AVE
Chicago

LAKEWOOD ENGINEERING

4400 W OHIO ST
Chicago

LaMantia Design & Construction

9100 Ogden Ave
Brookfield

LAND STRATEGIES INC

1700 W IRVING PARK RD
Chicago

LAND TECHNOLOGY INC

3922 MAIN ST
Mchenry

Landmark Renovations

1234 Center St
Downers Grove

Landtech Consultants Inc

13711 W 159th
Homer Glen

LARAMORE DOUGLASS & POPHAM

20 N Wacker Dr Ste 1500
Chicago

LEGACY DESIGNS

480 E ROOSEVELT RD
West Chicago

Lepjan Drafting Services Inc.

3343 W. Potomac Ave.
Chicago

LTK ENGINEERING SVC

300 S WACKER DR
Chicago

LUTSON

1301 E 75TH ST
Chicago

MACAN ENGINEERING CO

1564 N DAMEN AVE
Chicago

MACTE C ENGINEERING & CNSL

8745 W HIGGINS RD
Chicago

MAGNUSSON KLEMENCIC ASSOC INC

111 S WACKER DR
Chicago

MATRIX ENGINEERING CORP

725 S WELLS ST
Chicago

MB Design & Build

3628 N Western Ave
Chicago

MELVIN COHEN & ASSOC INC

555 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

MEP CONSULTANTS

351 W CHICAGO AVE
Chicago

METCALF & EDDY

303 E Wacker Dr Ste 600
Chicago

MISS JANNEY ELSTNER ASSC INC

10 S LA SALLE ST
Chicago

MORADI MULTI DIMENSION CNSLTNG

6201 W TOUHY AVE
Chicago

MOSHE CALAMARO & ASSOCIATES

930 Pitner Avenue
Evanston

MPR ENGINEERING

233 E ERIE ST
Chicago

MVA ENGINEERING CONSULTANT

5128 N ELSTON AVE
Chicago

MWH

175 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

NATIONAL COUNCIL OF STRUCTURAL

645 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

NAYYAR & NAYYAR INTL

220 S STATE ST
Chicago

New City Remodeling

4848 N Sheridan Rd
Chicago

O & N ENGINEERING

1513 W TAYLOR ST
Chicago

OMEGA ENGINEERING SVC

350 E CERMAK RD
Chicago

OPTIMA GROUP

333 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

OSA ENGINEERS

2851 W Coyle Ave
Chicago

PAN OCEANIC ENGINEERING

6700 N OLMSTED AVE
Chicago

PARSONS BRINCKERHOFF

30 N La Salle St Ste 4200
Chicago

PARTICULATE SOLID RESEARCH INC

4201 W 36TH ST
Chicago

PATRICK ENGINEERING

55 E MONROE ST
Chicago

PAYMENT ENGINEERING INC

27 N WACKER DR
Chicago

PIPER CONSTRUCTION

9999 W ROOSEVELT RD
Westchester

POWER ENGINEER COLLABORATIVE

216 S JEFFERSON ST
Chicago

Powerhouse Restoration Inc

1545 Jarvis Ave
Elk Grove Village

PREDICTEK

10 W 35TH ST
Chicago

PRISM ENGINEERING INC

122 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

PROBE CONSULTING SVC

855 W Adams St Ste 50
Chicago

Pyramid Construction

15026 Myrtle Ave

QUALITECH ENGINEERING

228 S Wabash Ave Ste 900
Chicago

QUEST DESIGN GROUP

3660 N LAKE SHORE DR
Chicago

R & G ENGINEERING LLC

2150 S Canalport Ave Ste 4A1
Chicago

R L MILLIES & ASSOC

221 N LA SALLE ST
Chicago

RELIABILITY ANALYSIS ASSOC

1440 N LAKE SHORE DR
Chicago

RESIDUALS MANAGEMENT TECHNOLGY

222 S RIVERSIDE PLZ
Chicago

RHEO GROUP PC

8131 W CATHERINE AVE
Chicago

Richlind Architects LLC

122 N. Highland Ave.
Lombard

RKON TECHNOLOGIES

216 W JACKSON BLVD
Chicago

ROBERT G BURKHARDT & ASSOC

220 S STATE ST
Chicago

RUBINOS & MESIA ENGINEERS INC

200 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

RUNDE ENGINEERING INC

954 W GRACE ST
Chicago

Russ Lundin Roofing

80 Burr Ridge Parkway
Willowbrook

S P ENGINEERS LTD

134 N La Salle St Ste 410
Chicago

SABRE TECHNICAL SVC CORP

4921 N DAMEN AVE
Chicago

SAMARTANO & CO

221 N LA SALLE ST
Chicago

SARGENT & LUNDY LLC

55 E MONROE ST
Chicago

SCHANDER REMODELING INC

2814 Lyndale Way

SEWER SYSTEMS EVALUATIONS INC

2500 W ARTHINGTON ST
Chicago

SEYMOUR LEPP & ASSOC

6016 N SAINT LOUIS AVE
Chicago

SHAH ENGINEERING INC

330 N WABASH AVE
Chicago

SHINER & ASSOC

225 W WASHINGTON ST
Chicago

SINGH & ASSOC INC

300 W ADAMS ST
Chicago

Skilled Contracting

1658 N. Milwaukee ste 279
Chicago

SOODAN & ASSOC INC

140 S Dearborn St Ste 420
Chicago

SOWLAT INC

410 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

STAGED APPEAL

200 E DELAWARE PL
Chicago

STAN ROLLER & ASSOC INC

867 LILAC LN
Naperville

Stan's Welding

9215 W Cherry
Franklin Park

STRUCTURE DESIGNS INC

309 W Washington St Ste 325
Chicago

STS CONSULTANTS

303 E Wacker Dr Ste 600
Chicago

Studio One Eleven

525 W. Monroe St.
Chicago

STV INC

200 W MONROE ST
Chicago

T & M ASSOC

220 S STATE ST
Chicago

T N & ASSOC

100 W MONROE ST
Chicago

T Y LIN INTL

5960 N MILWAUKEE AVE
Chicago

TAC

118 S Clinton St Ste 570
Chicago

TECMA ASSOCIATES INC

5519 N CUMBERLAND AVE
Chicago

TED JACOB ENGINEERING GROUP

224 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

TENG & ASSOCIATES

205 N MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

TERRA ENGINEERING LTD

225 W OHIO ST
Chicago

TERRACON

650 W LAKE ST
Chicago

THATCHER ENGINEERING CORP

175 N FRANKLIN ST
Chicago

THE STRUCTURAL SHOP

9601 RIVER ST
Schiller Park

Thrifty Nickel Handyman & Roofing Inc.

1000 Brown St Ste 203
Wauconda

TMC BUILDERS, INC

4113 N GREENVIEW AVE
Chicago

Toro Builders Corp.

5412 W. Roosevelt
Chicago

TR Knapp Architects pc

320 North Main Street
Lombard

UNIVERSAL CONTRACTS INC

83 MAYER AVE
Wheeling

URBAN ENGINEERING CONSULTANTS

2251 W 79TH ST
Chicago

URS CORP

122 S MICHIGAN AVE
Chicago

V3 CO

120 N LA SALLE ST
Chicago

WEBER CONSULTANTS

2324 W Pratt Blvd
Chicago

WELLINGTON ASSOCIATES

707 W JUNIOR TER
Chicago

Wolffhager

830 W Country Dr
Bartlett

Yuba Company

PO Box 66
La Grange

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