Chicago Electricians

in Chicago, IL

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A
Rated by
ALINE L.
"
was very patient and accommodating about coordinating with the masons, who rescheduled 3 times on short notice. He even tested the fans for me after bringing" them down so that I would know if they were resellable.
C
Rated by
Ferdinand A.
"The persons scheduling the appointment were very professional. It was a two person job. The electrician doing the inside wiring was polite. The person doing he trenching seemed very" irritated, kept swearing while doing his work and left the area in a very condition. I would not recommend this company.
A
Rated by
Irene F.
"OMG, it was a huge decision to spend that much on flooring in a small garden apt but it was the right thing to do. Friends and family love it!!! It's the best decision I made during" my renovations. I've just been using it a bit so far as it's been warm but I know it will be fabulous as the winter weather kicks in.
is the electrical wizard and
follows up with tiles. Both have worked together for years, have great personalities and you can tell because it turns out great. If you ever wondered if it's worth treating yourself to a warm floor, it is and
are the ones to work with. THANK YOU!

Local Articles in Chicago

Winter guide

The Angie's List Guide to Winter Maintenance

It's the time of year when the winter weather can take a toll. Follow this winter maintenance checklist to protect your home, your car and your health.

Ryan Electric owner Pat Ryan says he always makes sure clients inspect his work and are satisfied before he leaves a job. (Photo courtesy of Brody Ryan)

Hiring an Electrician

Since the days of Thomas Edison, the practical applications of electricity have become exponentially more complex. Becoming an electrician requires extensive training and continuing education to keep up with technology that changes constantly. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

One LED can last up to 50,000 hours, the equivalent of 42 60-watt incandescent bulbs. (Photo by Hugh Vandivier)
Lighting, Electrical

LED lights are quickly becoming popular choices for interior home lighting, but can they really compete with incandescent bulbs? Are there any downsides to using light-emitting diodes?

Outdoor holiday lighting, LED holiday lighting
Electrical, Holiday Decorating, Garage Doors

When hanging holiday lights, the safest power source is the nearest outlet. If that’s not possible, look for an appropriate extension cord or a power stake.

Hugh Vandivier
Lighting, Electrical

Those familiar incandescent bulbs are being phased out, replaced by new, more energy-efficient bulbs. But what's behind compact fluorescent lights (CFLs) and light-emitting diodes (LEDs)?

Electrical work is extremely dangerous, so make sure you hire a licensed pro for work around the home.
Electrical

If you discover that you have an old Federal Pacific breaker box, a faulty circuit breaker or an outdated fuse box, how much can you expect to pay to have a qualified electrician replace it?

Angie's Answers

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Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

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As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

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If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

Electrical reviews in Chicago

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Rating
It went really well.
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
was very professional. It worked very hard. The only comment I have is needed a little wire for the doorbell, I was a little surprised he did not have any extra wire on him. However, overall I was very happy.
- Scott M.
A

Rating
We had an intermittent buzzing noise from the wall near the circuit panel. When I first called, Blazer was very responsive and helpful, and was able to send someone out quickly. I especially appreciated the early morning (7:00 am) appointment. Although he was unable to find the source of the noise, he did a very thorough inspection and did the best he could to troubleshoot and to exclude potential sources, especially given that the noise was not happening while he was there. He did a great job on a few miscellaneous repair jobs to help make the trip worthwhile.
- KATHRYN S.
A

Rating
It was a bit tough scheduling with
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
, but totally worth it. He clearly prided himself on his professionalism. I had two pendant lights that were incorrectly installed. He explained what he was doing and how what he was doing was correct, versus the way the previous person had tried to do it. He noted that he left things prepped for a drywall installer to make their job easier. When the drywall installer came, he was surprised and pleased that
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
had done that. If he remains as busy as he is, which I suspect he will, he needs to hire a scheduler, that was the only frustrating part.
- ILENE S.
A

Rating
Called on Sunday and called back in two hours. Great customer service. Stated they had a busy day on Monday but could fit me in. As I explained my power in my kitchen went out. They arrived on time and figured out what the problem was and replaced the wiring in the wall and the outlets. All around great experience. Would definitely hire again and recommend.
- Grace S.
B

Rating
After buying the "Big Deal" for the outlet install, I was quickly able to schedule an appointment. When the appointment time came around, nobody showed and I wasn't able to get in touch with anybody at the
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
office. Very disappointing, it's pretty basic customer service to either show up on time or call. When I called to reschedule, they were not apologetic and gave me an appointment that was more than a week away. You'd think after screwing up the first time, they'd make an effort to at least get someone out ASAP.
When they came out the second time, the electrician was very professional and did the install within about 45 minutes. The outlet works fine - so in the end the job was satisfactory.
- Paul D.
B

Rating
The work that was done was excellent. However, he did not arrive on time for the appointment. When I tried to call the phone number given, it was not available. I had to call Angies List to get a number. He finally called hours later and stated there was some confusion regarding the phones. He volunteered to come out at that time - I said O.K. - he came and did an excellent job.
- Kate C.
A

Rating
Mr
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
was on time,he said 12pm and he arrived on time I was impressed. He came in asked what the problem was we showed him to the electrical box he had his tool and was able to tell us which side needed the work before we said any thing. Mr
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
checked everything explained what was needed what it would cost. My mother is so happy and she is so satisfied. I will use mr
Chicago Electricians Provider Name Locked
again, his prices are fair and he knows what he is doing. Thanks Angie.
- Patricia L.

All Electricians in Chicago, IL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

VANZETTI INFRARED INC

7524 W 98TH PL
Bridgeview

VARIO CONSTRUCTION CO INC

207 S VILLA AVE
Villa Park

VAVRA ELECTRIC INC

412 MIDWAY DR
Mundelein

VEE-TECH ELECTRIC LTD

675 MORRAY CT
Des Plaines

Ventura Electric

22174 N Hillview Dr
Barrington

VETERAN'S ELECTRIC CO INC

323 E ARDMORE AVE
Roselle

Viking Electric, Inc.

7171 W 175th ST
Tinley Park

Village Electric LLC

1243 Diane Lane
Elk Grove Village

VILLAGE SQUARE ELECTRIC INC

17123 POINTE DR
Orland Park

VINCENT ELECTRIC INC

880 LAKE
Hanover Park

VIP ELECTRIC

9119 WINN RD
Spring Grove

VIP ELECTRIC

7756 W ARDMORE AVE
Chicago

VIP Security Camera Systems

27 N. Wacker Dr. Suite 213
Chicago

VIP Services

819 McKinley Ave.
Mundelein

VIP TECH ELECTRIC

1147 LONGMEADOW DR
Glenview

VIP TECH ELECTRIC INC

10225 PACIFIC AVE
Franklin Park

VISCO ELECTRIC LLC.

212 ANN STREET
West Chicago

VISION CONTROLS INC

245 W ROOSEVELT RD
West Chicago

Vision Electric

841 N York St
Elmhurst

VISTA SUPPLY INC

PO Box 367
Midlothian

VISUAL ORGANIZERS

873 BUSSE RD
Bensenville

VLAD THE ELECTRICIAN

1754 E OAKTON ST
Des Plaines

VLB Ambit Energy

701 Lake St
Antioch

VLCEK Remodeling

1328 E WELLWOOD DR
Lockport

VOICE & VIDEO SVC

620 CARTWRIGHT TRL
Mchenry

VOL-TEK ELECTRIC INC

166 KIMBERLY LN
Lake Forest

Volt-Amp Electric

38W073 Beckman Trail
Elgin

Voltage Electric Co.

33 E. Stonegate Dr
Prospect Heights

voltolgy

300 north state street
Chicago

Vons Electric Inc

2701 Dukane Dr
Saint Charles

Voss Remodeling Ltd

1065 N Sterling Ave Apt 113
Palatine

VOX ELECTRIC CO

1281 HUMBRACHT CIR
Bartlett

VOX ELECTRIC CO

820 W LAKE ST
Roselle

VT TECHNICAL SERVICE INC

4219 W BUTTERFIELD RD
Hillside

W DRETSKE ELECTRIC

32 N MARTIN AVE
Waukegan

W E BISHOP & CO

515 E THORNHILL LN
Palatine

W GENENERAL CONSTRUCTION

419 W ORIOLE LN
Mount Prospect

W J ELECTRIC CO INC

8923 S Octavia Ave
Bridgeview

W K ELECTRIC

2587 ROSLYN LN
Highland Park

W K Precision Painting & Decorating

1416 Summerhill Dr
Mundelein

W T MECHANICAL

16239 LONG AVE
Oak Forest

W W GRAINGER

8045 RIVER DR
Morton Grove

W&W CUSTOM INTERIORS

8632 AINSLIE ST
Harwood Heights

W3network Consulting

501A E Saint Louis St

WABASH POWER EQUIPMENT CO

444 CARPENTER AVE
Wheeling

WAKEFIELD ELECTRIC

24142 S VOLBRECHT RD
Crete

WALDRON ELETRIC INC

3150 W LAKE AVE
Glenview

Wall Doctor Inc

4822 Baseline Rd.
Oswego

WALTERS ELECTRIC

25841 N MIDLOTHIAN RD
Mundelein

WANGER ELECTRIC INC

895 HAWTHORNE LN
Northbrook

Wangler Construction

E Vallette St
Elmhurst

Warkins Electric

1634 Arnold Ave.
Rockford

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Warren Edwards Builders, Inc.

33149 N US HIGHWAY 45
Grayslake

WARREN ELECTRIC INC

33261 N HIGHWAY 45
Grayslake

Warrior Construction Inc

1193 S GROVE UNIT 4
Franklin Park

WATER RESOURCES INC

390 SADLER AVE
Elgin

Watt Handyman Services

1507 Waverly Ave.
Westchester

WATTS ELECTRIC

6970 N CENTRAL PARK AVE
Lincolnwood

Watts-Up Electric

1281 Westport Ridge
Crystal Lake

WAVE 2 WAVE COMMUNICATIONS

10 S RIVERSIDE PLZ
Chicago

Waymar Construction & Remodeling Inc.

902 W. Alleghany dr
Arlington Heights

Wayne Mortensen & Son, General Contractor

25021 W Cedarwood Lane
Ingleside

WAYNE P LEONARD ELECTRIC CO

114 E OLTENDORF RD
Streamwood

WAYNE'S ELECTRIC SVC

4323 W CERMAK RD
Chicago

WB International Corp

5732 W Lawrence
Chicago

We Group Renovations & Improvements, Inc.

9163 S. Harvard Ave.
Chicago

We-Bore-It

755 Ridgeview Drive
Mchenry

WEBSTER ELECTRIC

280 HOWARD AVE
Des Plaines

WEG ELECTRIC MOTORS

295 S PROSPECT AVE
Itasca

WEG ELECTRIC MOTORS CORP

504 MILFORD RD
Deerfield

WEGLARZ MECHANICAL CONTRACTORS

1720 W LONNQUIST BLVD
Mount Prospect

WEGNER ELECTRIC

331 RED BRIDGE RD
Lake Zurich

WEGNER ELECTRIC

2404 N HIDDEN TRAIL BLVD
Spring Grove

WEISE CONSTRUCTION

26W174 Mohican Dr
Wheaton

WELCH ELECTRIC

707 E ELMWOOD AVE
West Chicago

Wellington Rehab & Constructions Inc

1647 N Washtenaw Ave
Chicago

Welter Home Services

415 N Emerson St
Mount Prospect

WEST COM CORP

1 N LA SALLE ST
Chicago

WESTBOCK CO

121 ONTARIO ST
Frankfort

WESTBROOK ELECTRICAL CONTRS

1100 JORIE BLVD
Oak Brook

WESTERN ELECTRICAL CONTR INC

7724 PALMA LN
Morton Grove

WESTLOCK CONTROLS CORP

6912 MAIN ST
Downers Grove

WESTSIDE MECHANICAL

1625 Winnetka Cir
Rolling Meadows

WESTSIDE MECHANICAL INC

2007 CORPORATE LN
Naperville

WEYHAUCH CORP

516 W MAIN ST
Cary

White House Electric Co

4138 Vernon Ave
Brookfield

WICKUM & SONS INC

296 N ELMWOOD LN
Palatine

WIDE HORIZON ELECTRICAL SVC

33W815 WILLIAM AVE
Dundee

Widur Corp

25529 Blue Bell Ct
Plainfield

WIEGOLD HANDYMAN SERVICES

25079 Buena Avenue
Lake Villa

WIELAND ELECTRIC INC

5151 W WINONA ST
Chicago

WIGDAHL ELECTRIC CO

625 PRATT BLVD
Elk Grove Village

WILDSTAR ELECTRIC

876 BONNIE BRAE LN
Bolingbrook

WILDWOOD ELECTRIC

17951 W WINNEBAGO DR
Grayslake

WILKEY ELECTRIC

8246 W IRVING PARK RD
Chicago

WILLIAM A POPE CO

307 E Granville Ave
Roselle

WILLIAM MILLER ELECTRIC

18807 RIVER RD
Marengo

Williams Home Remodeling

6411 S Peoria St
Chicago

WillTech Electric

217 E Wilson Street
Peotone

WILSHORE ELECTRIC

304 LAWNDALE
Wilmette

win win redevelopment

415 w. haven dr.
Arlington Heights

WINCHESTER ELECTRIC CORP

15117 WINCHESTER AVE
Harvey

WindowWorks/HomeWerks Inc

570 E North Frontage Rd
Bolingbrook

WINDY CITY BALDOR

1601 FRONTENAC RD
Naperville

WINDY CITY CONSTRUCTION & DESIGN

1000 BROWN ST
Wauconda

Windy City Doors

8900 S. Harlem Ave
Bridgeview

Windy City Handyman, Inc.

7259 N. Campbell Street
Chicago

WINN CONSTRUCTION

1834 N BURLING ST
Chicago

WINSTON ELECTRIC INC

PO Box 346
Antioch

WIRE.NET

705 BAKEWELL LN
Naperville

Wired Technologies, Inc.

37 Sherwood Terrace
Lake Bluff

WIRING INC

8128 LARAMIE AVE
Skokie

WISCONSIN CONTROL CORP

N176 COUNTY FARM RD
Winfield

WISHCOM

2249 PIERCE DR
Spring Grove

Wisz Choice Construction

209 South Bluff
South Beloit

WIZARD ELECTRIC

3485 N ELSTON AVE
Chicago

WIZARD ELECTRIC

51ST & UNIVERSITY
Chicago

WIZARD ELECTRIC INC

MAIN ST & ASBURY AVE
Evanston

WIZARD ELECTRIC INC

35TH & KEDZIE AVE
Chicago

WIZJA SYSTEMS INC

3650 Elder Ln
Franklin Park

WJF ELECTRIC SVC INC

512 N CENTRAL AVE
Wood Dale

WJN ENTERPRISES

7601 191ST ST
Tinley Park

WMI TECHNOLOGIES INC

2019 CORPORATE LN
Naperville

WNUK Construction

1617 W roosevelt Rd
Berwyn

WOGNUM ELECTRIC CO

9929 Settlers Ct

Wojtus Construction

1826 E Camp McDonald rd
Mount Prospect

WOLF ELECTRIC

5925 W 115TH ST
Alsip

Wolffhager

830 W Country Dr
Bartlett

WOOD DALE ELECL CONSTR INC

65 N GARDEN AVE
Roselle

WOOD DALE ELECTRICAL CONSTR

801 W BARTLETT RD
Bartlett

WOOD N BARN

1S611 VERDUN DR
Winfield

WOODLAND ELECTRIC LLC

1052 HILLGROVE AVE
Western Springs

Woods Electric Co.

1101 W Chestnut St
Chicago

Woodworks Contracting

6483 E Oakhill Rd
Stillman Valley

Wook Kim

27 N Wacker Dr
Chicago

WRAP ON CO

5550 W 70TH PL
Chicago

WRIGHT ELECTRIC CO

8841 Meade Ave
Morton Grove

WWA Electric

3512 N Nora Ave
Chicago

Xact Remodeling and Design

3043 N Ashland
Chicago

XACT WIRE EDM CORP

720 INDUSTRIAL DR
Cary

XPERT FIT CUSTOMIZED LIGHTING

209 BENTON LN
Bloomingdale

XPERT FLOOD CONTROL INC

3544 W MONTROSE
Chicago

xTop Construction

517 S President St
Wheaton

Xtra Comfort

Hinsdale

Y2K HEATING & COOLING

19041 Willow Ave.
Country Club Hills

Yamane Development LLC

3317 W Irving Park
Chicago

YASKAWA ELECTRIC AMERICA INC

2121 NORMAN DR S
Waukegan

Yellow Square Corporation

1024 Arcady Dr
Lake Forest

YELLOW TECHNOLOGY SVC

10301 S HARLEM AVE
Chicago Ridge

YESCO Sign & Lighting Service

6N144 Harvey Rd
Medinah

YOUNG BROTHER ELECTRIC

5860 N PULASKI RD
Chicago

YOUNG'S ELECTRIC

1400 FOREST DR
Glenview

Your Chicagoland Remodeling

12822 Carriage Ln.
Midlothian

YOUR ELECTRICIAN

800 W FIFTH AVE
Naperville

Your Handyman

418 White Oak Dr.
Roselle

Your Handyman

995 Willow St
Itasca

Your Handyman

704 Sutton Circle
Wheeling

Z ELECTRIC

1865 BERNICE RD
Lansing

Z M ELECTRIC CO

1256 S CHRISTINE CT
Vernon Hills

Z M ELECTRIC CO

2861 DAULTON CT
Buffalo Grove

Zaga electric company

5250 grand ave.
Gurnee

Zap Electric Inc.

825 Happfield Dr.
Arlington Heights

ZAPATA CONSTRUCTION

801 Oakton St Apt 203
Elk Grove Village

ZEBRA REMODELING INC

1013 E WILDWOOD DR
Prospect Heights

Zeesgroup.com

6850 W. Montrose Ave.
Harwood Heights

ZEMCO ELECTRIC

5034 N SPRINGFIELD AVE
Chicago

Zigman Construction & Remodeling

7115 Hiawatha Dr
Wonder Lake

ZIOBER ELECTRIC INC

7597 CHURCHILL DR
Hanover Park

ZLECTRIC

14008 W DUBLIN DR
Homer Glen

ZOBEL ELECTRIC

410 TIMBERLINE DR
Joliet

Zoepaz Incorporated

444 E. Roosevelt Rd.
Lombard

ZOLTEK

PO Box 5738
Villa Park

ZONE GROUP

243 TAMPA ST
Park Forest

ZZK-ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

6142 N MOODY AVE
Chicago

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