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A
"I have worked with this company previously and trust the opinion and advice received. This time was the same. The evaluation is professional and the advice for" the work to be performed is of necessary scope and not overkill. Some engineering companies will perform evaluations that do not take the age of the home into account. My house was built in 1929 and the report I received recognized that some floor slope is fine and provided reasonable repairs to ensure sufficient support but without over engineering a solution.

-Erin B.

A
" Teates was a pleasure to work with. He and his team gave it their all, working in the heat and frequently 'til dark, digging and consulting" with engineer on the best strategy for correcting the problem. was there several times after dark. He was always responsive to my requests. Each person who worked at my house did so graciously and although it wasn't their main purpose, made good friends with my dog, who is always leery of strangers but adopted these men and was comfortable with them. and his crew were very easygoing, adapting to the need for increased time on the job and the effort it required in a receptive manner even though it would have altered what they had on the calendar for other projects. took pictures under the house and provided me with these and diagrams so I was always up to date on their progress. I recommend them enthusiastically!

-Linda W.

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Local Articles in Charlotte

Unfinished basement with cracks

Have a Foundation Crack? Consult a Structural Engineer

A structural engineer can examine the crack and determine if your house is safe or hazardous to live in.

man framing house

Structural Engineers

Your home's ability to withstand the forces of nature and gravity depends on good structural engineering. Building room additions, correcting foundations and repairing frame damage are all projects that call for a structural engineer's expertise.

home blueprint for remodeling project

A large-scale remodel that makes drastic changes to a home's structure or increases its square footage with an addition is an ambitious undertaking.

hole being dug beside house

Dear Angie: Is it feasible to dig a new basement under an existing two-story home? If so, what might it cost? – Brian A. of Washington, D.C.

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Don’t let foundation repairs frighten or intimidate you.

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Check your foundation regularly to keep it solid.

Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

There is NO such thing as an average cost !

 

You are going to be required to have a building permit and the Building Comissioner

or Senior Permit Official of your local permit office will issue a determination as to whether you will be required to have a Steel Bearing Beam , a Laminated Bearing Beam or some other Beam to support weight of the structure you want to ammend . You  may also be required to install Bearing support posts footings,  at either end of the beam as well. Much will depend as to what is over  and under the space that you wish to span .The official may require you to retain an Architectual Engineer to perform a Load study and computations and require you to  comply with his recomendations .

 

 Until you know what is required by the Permitting Office , Then and only then will you be able to determine the true costs .

 

The fact that you have existing baseboard heat , and we know NOT if it is electric or radiant baseboard heat will complicate the issue as well the existing electrical outlets which may need to be sunken into the floor in order to maintain the electrical circuitry as it exists.

 

 Past experience in these matters , indicate possible costs to range from  $4000.00 to  as much as  $8k -$10,000.00 . I realise that these cost ranges are probably NOT what you want or expect , but There are too many unknowns to attempt a closer cost expectation or range of expenses !

?

Hi, this is Meranda with Angie's List.

 

You can log in at www.angieslist.com and search for "structural engineer" to find someone in your area who can independently assess the situation. They should be able to determine if this is a serious problem or a cosmetic problem, and if it's an issue make a recommendation/plan to fix it.

 

While your mileage may vary, I had a similar situation in my own home this spring. We noticed several new drywall cracks that appeared to be developinfg or growing around our 20-year-old home. We hired a structural engineer — $300 for an assessment — and he concluded the home was structurally sound, and the cracks likely were just settling and seemed to appear one after another because the crazy weather and humidity changes over the winter. It was worth that price to sleep better at night not worried my home was falling down. He recommended we find a drywall guy to fix it — way cheaper than the scenarios I'd been imagining in my head.

 

If you need help finding someone, you can also always email or call in a request for our member services team at memberservices@angieslist.com or 1-888-944-5478 on weekdays from 8:30 a.m. to 8:15 p.m. and Saturday from 8:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Eastern time.

 

Good luck!

?

Architect first - for around $1000 typically you will get site consultation, a few sketches showing what you said you wanted, and a preliminary (by the book) cost estimate - that you can use to figure if your budget or scope of work needs major adjustment. Then, if you go ahead, typically about 10-20% of total project cost for complete plans and specs (including above cost), depending on complexity and level of interior design detail, and if construction inspection services are included.

 


 
 
Generally, nothing is free with an architect - unlike a contractor where a bit of consultation and a rough estimate is a lead-in to the actual work he hopes to get (the construction/repair) and part of his bidding cost, an architect (and engineer) makes his living giving advice and consultation and developing designs and cost estimates - so giving it away for free is sort of like a dentist doing sample fillings for free. Some will come to your house to discuss your concepts for 15-20 minutes for free, basically to see if they want to take you on as a client or feel your job is the type or size they want, but you should expect little or nothing in the way of a design or cost estimate for free - the most you might get would be an opinion on whether it sounds, off the cuff, like your budget is roughly in line with your desired scope of the project.
 
 
On more complex or up-scale remodels, it is not unusual to contact several architecture firms and request proposals - where they basically come see the site, then give you a sketch or few or more common today, computer-generated altered photos of your place, showing conceptually what they can do for you, then you choose the one you like the most and go with that one for final design. Typically $500-1000 range fee (each) to get that done for small jobs, larger jobs will typically be no charge but that assumes probably $25-50,000 plus anticipated fees if they get the job.
 
 
Bear in mind in the latter scenario you cannot pick and choose betweenthe best parts of each proposal - the architect owns the design and it is copyrighted, so while you can choose bui9lding elements (dormers, bay windows, etc) from any of the proposals, specific design or color combinations are copyrighted by the proposer.
The Search the List category is Architects and Building Design.
?
Here is a link to a recent diagnosis exercise I just went through on another similar question - might be of some interest to you, though that case is likely duct related whereas your I think may be outside - http://answers.angieslist.com/What-causing-loud-banging-clicking-noise-q141018.aspx In your case however, and especially with the only on very cold night issue and especially more early in winter, my first, second and probably third guess would be the deck. Baseboard heating pipes commonly creak, pop, and sometimes squeek as they expand and contract, but unless the pipes are jamming up where they come out of the floor so they make the baseboard radiator "pop", they usually do not "bang" like steam pipes do. And would sound like someone accidentally kicking the baseboard like a minor clang or thump - and typically quite metallic sounding in that case. The jut out on the house could make the noiseif it is heating and cooling signifiantly, but with constant heat in the house I would doubt it - that noise can occur on occasion due to siding being installed without adequate expansion gaps at the ends of boards or edges of panels. Usually if that is the problem, though, you will get bulging or end-cracking or splitting of the siding oer time. Plus of course the expansion and noise occurs in HOT conditions (usually direct sunlight on hot days), not in the cold of winter. Deck, especially in early winter as they initially freeze and the moisture content in the boards is typically high, tend to thump quite hard as they freeze - commonly sounds about like someone jumping up high and landing hard on the deck in boots, or maybe like someone hitting the far end of the house with a sledgehammer. Not uncommon to actually feel the thump while in your bed. What is happening can be one of several things: 1) most commonly, moisture in the boards is freezing causing expansion - till eventually the board(s) pop a nail, or break free of the frost holding them to the support boards. They freeze at the joists first because that is where the free water is and is accessible to the air all around so it freezes hard first, then as hard freezing conditions persist through the night the water in the boards themselves expands, causing the board to eventually break the ice bond - or in extreme cases to push hard enough against the end of the next board to break it free. This commonly happens from a couple to around 4-6 hours after evening hard freeze sets in, so commonly about midnightish as opposed to early evening or early AM, in normal daily temperature fluctuation conditions. This can easily happen to several boards in one night, and if thawing in the daytime, or especially if getting rained on or getting snow meltwater again, can become more frequent for awhile then taper off a few days to a week or so later. 2) decks are basically built as a single unit without specific expansion provision, but are semi-rigidly fastened in place by the piers and commonly rigidly fastened along the house edge - so any expansion or contraction creates stresses in the deck which eventually can get strong enough to cause popping and creaking and thumping noises. Because it is rigidly constructed, the stresses (from moisture or freezing or on large decks even just daily thermal changes) can accumulate fairly well before something releases, so the thump or bang can be quite loud. 3) if your support posts (on decks with outer edge support piers/posts and fastened to the house with a ledger board) are frost heaving, then they lift the deck upwards at the outer edge, which can cause sounds from nails prying out of the house as the ledger board tilts up - or in extreme cases ripping out of lag bolts or joist hangers. Check to be sure your ledger board is not tilting away form the house at the bottom, and that the deck is not tilting up significantly at the outer edge. 4) sometimes the freezing water in the deck boards can cause splitting of the board, which makes a tearing or ripping sound usually, rather than a thump. 5) occasionally, frost heave in the ground under the stairs can lift the stairs, causing tearing or ripping where it is fastened to the deck. While disturbing, this sort of noise (in moderation) does not normally "damage" a deck, though of course it does cause a general loosening up of fasteners over time, and sometimes snaps deck nails or screws (screws more often because they are generally higher stress steel, so can't yield as much before snapping). Of course, significant frost heaving does need to be taken care of - by solving the cause (footings bearing on/in frost heave susceptible soil) or by releveling the deck periodically if a slow, gradual year-by-year heaving of the foundations. Measures to take - just visually inspect the deck and alll support posts and connections periodically (every year or two) for broken or loose ones, but generally unless deck board fasteners break, you will not see anything except maybe a few nail heads sticking up. And check it with a level to be sure the outer edge is not lifting up due to frost heaving of the piers, and adjust back level (hopefully you have adjustable piers/posts).
?

Structural Engineering reviews in Charlotte

A

Rating
We worked with to schedule the structural inspection - she was polite and helpful in getting us scheduled quickly due to an due-diligence end date. I also followed up with her post-inspection several times for miscellaneous questions and she was always quick to get back to me.
...More himself was extremely helpful. We are out of state buyers, and he went above and beyond in spending time with us to explain the issues at hand. He walked me through the report over the phone, and also gave me a "ballpark" figure of what to expect in terms of costs to fix. After I told him a separate contractor came in very high, he willingly provided me a few contractors he knew that would likely be much lower (and they were).
In addition to the items we asked him to check, also pointed out some other things he thought could be problematic (a tree whose roots may be going under the house that should be removed). Interestingly, before we closed on the house a storm destroyed the tree and the sellers had to cut it down. I sent him pictures of the stump and he looked at them and told me it did not appear to be any damage to the house.
In short, was priced reasonably, and performed above and beyond his scope. I will certainly use again for any future needs.

- Will T.
A

Rating
was knowledgeable, professional and efficient. He performed a thorough assessment of my home. He answered several questions and found other areas that needed to be addressed. He recommended 3 companies to do the repairs with whom he had worked. I made a follow up phone call to ask questions about 2 of the companies and how ...More they performed the repairs and promptly returned the phone call and answered my questions. I would definitely recommend to others and use again.
- Wendy L.
A

Rating
literally saved us over $50,000!! He found major structural defects in the home we were buying during inspection. Because of his inspection, we were able to negotiate with the sellers to have the items fixed so we could bring our family into a safe and sound home. We can't thank enough for what he's ...More done for us!
- Hunter N.
A

Rating
was prompt, professional and personable and I trusted his professional opinion. Was not in a rush and was happy to answer ALL my questions. Felt that I got a good value for quality service. Would use again and would recommend.
- Ryan G.
A

Rating
His report listed many structural problems and pointed out shifting and foundation issues. His report went far beyond the general inspection we had already paid for, and I believe it was money very well spent. His services are not the least expensive, but the thoroughness meant we were not going blindly into a home purchase with potentially very expensive ...More repairs that needed to be made. I highly recommend his work and would use him again without hesitation.
- Gretchen T.
A

Rating
was thorough, he payed attention to detail, and he patiently explained everything (more than twice) so that my husband and I clearly understood what he was saying. went above and beyond and we highly recommend him for your structural needs.


- Marlo S.
A

Rating
They were really great. They were extremely efficient. The workers were very polite, and they completely the work much quicker than expected. The owner, , especially explained every step of the process.
- Cynthia F.
A

Rating
was as professional as they come. expeditiously came out to our home to evaluate the issues. He provided a couple different routes we could take to resolve the issues and explained the pro's and con's of each in great detail. not only provided us his extensive expertise ...More and experience, but he also treated us as family. I cannot stress enough how I value great customer service and blows my expectations out of the water. The work was completed in a timely manner and done flawlessly. I would highly recommend to anyone, including family and friends. Thanks, .
- Sara S.

Structural Engineers in Charlotte

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A.C.E. Contracting Services, LLC

1121 West Charlotte Ave
Mount Holly

AIR CAPTURE EQUIPMENT INC

9908 FOUR MILE CREEK RD
Charlotte

AMERICAN ROLLER SCREW INC

10015 Park Cedar Dr Ste 150
Charlotte

Americas Choice Contractors

306Rhyne-Oakland Rd
Gastonia

AMICUS ENGINEERING

7730 MATTHEWS MINT HILL RD
Charlotte

Andrew Roby General Contractor Inc

2000 West Morehead St
Charlotte

Arp Engineering, Inc.

202 E. Franklin Street
Monroe

AWARE ENVIRONMENTAL

5503 Meadow Haven Ln
Charlotte

BARRIER FOUNDATION SVC

4214 STATESVILLE RD
Charlotte

BOATWRIGHT & CO

3615 LEMSFORD WAY
Charlotte

BOB DILLARD SALES ASSOC

3324 PELTON ST
Charlotte

Brick Masonry Repair

4731 Hedgemore Drive
Charlotte,

BROWNING ENGINEERS INC

3731 LATROBE DR
Charlotte

BUILDER'S PRIDE INC

108 HARBORVIEW PL
Mooresville

Carolina Crawlspace Solutions

4524 Rolling Hill Dr.
Charlotte

Carolina Pool King

4101 Stuart Andrew Blvd Ste A
Charlotte

CAROLINA SPECIALTY CONSTRUCTION INC

3979 ENGLISH OAK DR
Lincolnton

Carolinas structural consultants

8502 Thelema lane
Charlotte

CENTEX

10925 DAVID TAYLOR DR
Charlotte

CES Group Engineers LLP

274 N Nc 16 Business Hwy
Denver

CHRISTOPHER WRIGHT PADGETT

226 WESTINGHOUSE BLVD
Charlotte

CINELEASE INC

2205 DISTRIBUTION CENTER DG
Charlotte

COGGIN CARRARA INC

3700 LATROBE DR
Charlotte

COMMERCIAL RESOURCES

818 LINDA LN
Charlotte

CON SPAN BRIDGE SYSTEMS

8430 UNIVERSITY EXEC PARK DR
Charlotte

CONTECH BRIDGE SOLUTIONS

8430 UNIVERSITY EXEC PARK DR
Charlotte

CORE STATES

101 W Worthington Ave Ste 200
Charlotte

CRA ENGINEERING INC

4215 STUART ANDREW BLVD
Charlotte

Criterium Simpson Engineers, Inc.

2530 W Roosevelt Blvd
Monroe

Cunnane Hart Inc

10321 Misty Moss Ct
Charlotte

Decks Unlimited

418 Raintree Dr
Matthews

DELTA AIRPORT CONSULTANTS INC

1805 Sardis Rd N Ste 101
Charlotte

Distinctive Design / Build / Remodel, LLC

338 S. Sharon Amity Rd.
Charlotte

Due West/Southport Contractors Inc

PO Box 473145
Charlotte

DWBERRY & DAVIS INC

6135 Lakeview Rd Ste 150
Charlotte

ENGINEERING CONSULTING SVC LTD

8702 RED OAK BLVD
Charlotte

FACILITIES PLANNING & SITING

PO Box 25328
Charlotte

FAIRFIELD ENGINEERING

2101 CAMBRIDGE BELTWAY DR
Charlotte

FREEMAN'S DESIGNS

9016 OREN THOMPSON RD
Charlotte

gemini construction

3006 Old Montgomery Place Rd
Monroe

GEO TECHNOLOGY ASSOC

710 PENINSULA LN
Charlotte

GEOSCIENCE GROUP

500 CLANTON RD
Charlotte

H G LOCKABY & ASSOC INC

4726 PARK RD
Charlotte

HARMON CONSTRUCTION CO INC

228 E KINGSTON AVE
Charlotte

HARPER MACHINERY CORP

11601 FRUEHAUF DR
Charlotte

HARRELL SALTRICK & HOPPER

4731 HEDGEMORE DR
Charlotte

HARRINGTON GROUP INC

10720 Sikes Pl Ste 110
Charlotte

Hawk Construction Inc

1006 Kwanzan Ct
Indian Trail

HDR ENGINEERING INC

128 S TRYON ST
Charlotte

HINDE ENGINEERING INC

9303 MONROE RD
Charlotte

HOBBS UPCHURCH & ASSOC PA

9140 Arrowpoint Blvd Ste 120
Charlotte

HOIDAS ENGINEERING PLLC

20460 CHARTWELL CENTER DR
Cornelius

Howard Verna Engineering PC

120 W Bland St
Charlotte

HUNTER STRUCTURAL

1900 ABBOTT ST
Charlotte

INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING & TEST

129 GREENWICH RD
Charlotte

INTELLIGENT DESIGN ENGINEERING

1945 J N Pease Pl
Charlotte

Intellivent

134 Lawrence Tee Ln
Mooresville

INTERFACE-CONSULTING ENGINEERS

5016 ROCKY RIVER RD
Charlotte

Ironton Builders

1319 Cathey St
Charlotte

JACOCKS CORPORATION

7419 PINE BLUFF CIR
Charlotte

JAMES J TOTH III PE

7026 LEAVES LN
Charlotte

JM Simpson Engineers, PC

2430 West Roosevelt Blvd.
Monroe

John L. Plummer Jr., P.E.

Post Office Box 307
Huntersville

KC Construction

630 Rama rd.
Charlotte

KDH Residential Designs

301 McCullough Dr
Charlotte

KELLY GROUP

14040 S TRYON ST
Charlotte

KING/GUINN ASSOC

1309 AMBLE DR
Charlotte

KSC ENGINEERING

3717 LATROBE DR
Charlotte

KUBILINS TRANSPORTATION GROUP

800 W HILL ST
Charlotte

LAURENE & RICKHER

8701 RED OAK BLVD
Charlotte

LUNAR IMAGE CUSTOMS

3445 CAROLINA AVE
Charlotte

M H LEONARD CONSTRUCTION

2218 Beverly Dr
Charlotte

MALCOLM PIRNIE INC

201 MCCULLOUGH DR
Charlotte

MC KNIGHT SMITH WARD GRIFFIN

4223 SOUTH BLVD
Charlotte

MID SOUTH CONSULTING

3901 ROSE LAKE DR
Charlotte

MINTICH ENGINEERING

3213 MOUNTAINBROOK RD
Charlotte

MOORE LINDNER ENGINEERING INC

233 S SHARON AMITY RD
Charlotte

NORCAR TECHNOLOGIES

4800 GOLFVIEW CT
Charlotte

OLVER INC

8720 RED OAK BLVD
Charlotte

P & P HEATING & COOLING

421 E 26TH ST
Charlotte

PARSONS CORP

4701 HEDGEMORE DR
Charlotte

Personal Project Management

11058 Cedar Walk Lane
Charlotte

PINNACLE CONVERTING EQUIPMENT

1720 TOAL ST
Charlotte

premier improvements

1564 brookbend ct

Progressive Design Group, Inc.

9736 Bartlett Road
Charlotte

PROLINE CONSTRUCTION

PO Box 484
Davidson

PSI

5021 W WT HARRIS BLVD
Charlotte

QUEEN CITY RESTORATION

614 W MOREHEAD ST
Charlotte

Queen Structural Engineering

2632 Pamlico Drive
Shelby

R 3 ENGINEERING INC

1900 ABBOTT ST
Charlotte

R BACON

3553 N SHARON AMITY RD
Charlotte

R M STAFFORD ENGINEERING

9115 HARRIS CORNERS PKWY
Charlotte

RAND STRUCTURAL SERVICES, INC.

625 Jefferson Dr
Charlotte

Residential Structures PC

3440 North Davidson Street
Charlotte

RILEY POWER INC

10200 MALLARD CREEK RD
Charlotte

ROBERT J COOK CONSULTANTS

4009 WOODFOX DR
Charlotte

RTWA ENGINEERS INC

1230 W MOREHEAD ST
Charlotte

SANJON CORP

3979 English Oak Dr
Lincolnton

SCHNABEL ENGINEERING SOUTH PC

5104 REAGAN DR
Charlotte

SCS ENGINEERS PC

2520 WHITEHALL PARK DR
Charlotte

SHAW ENERGY DELIVERY SVC INC

128 S TRYON ST
Charlotte

Sheats Construction LLC

PO Box 470171
Charlotte

SHIELD ENGINEERING INC

4301 TAGGART CREEK RD
Charlotte

Singletree Renovations

7438 Barn Stone Dr.
Charlotte

Standard Contracting Inc.

5503 Chicopee Dr
Charlotte

STANTEC INC

2127 AYRSLEY TOWN BLVD
Charlotte

Stonegate General & Electrical Contractors

117 S Wendover Trace Ave
Mooresville

STRUCTURAL CONCEPTS

4927 MONROE RD
Charlotte

Structural Design Solutions

401 N Tryon Street
Charlotte

Structural Works, Inc.

P.O. Box 12464
Charlotte

STRUCTURES INC

227 W TRADE ST
Charlotte

SUMMIT ENGINEERING

12700 IVEY CREEK DR
Charlotte

TALBERT & BRIGHT INC

4944 PARKWAY PLAZA BLVD
Charlotte

TECHNICAL ASSOCIATES-CHARLOTTE

347 N CASWELL RD
Charlotte

TEETER ENGINEERING GROUP

4059 YANCEY RD
Charlotte

TOOMEY & ASSOC

16850 HERE AT LAST LN
Charlotte

TOTAL CONTROL SVC LLC

14833 Ashlight Dr
Charlotte

TQM ENGINEERING PC

PO Box 12113
Charlotte

Twin Creeks Millwork LLC

4013 Flagstone Dr

United Construction Group

2720 South Blvd.
Charlotte

URS CORP

6135 PARK SOUTH DR
Charlotte

V H PATEL ASSOC

5903 FLORENCE AVE
Charlotte

VIBRALIGN INC

8711 PICCONE BROOK LN
Charlotte

WALKER ENGINEERING

6060 Piedmont Row Dr S Ste 524
Charlotte

WALTER & ASSOC

8721 WILLHILL RD
Charlotte

WATERSHED CONCEPTS

5925 Carnegie Blvd Ste 370
Charlotte

WGPM INC

11220 ELM LN
Charlotte

WHITLEY ENGINEERING INC

PO BOX 1000
Locust

WILLIAM BRUCE ASSOC

8501 TOWER POINT DR
Charlotte

WPC INC

2020 Starita Rd
Charlotte

WRG DESIGN INC

9101 SOUTHERN PINE BLVD
Charlotte

Yates Structural Engineering

3300 Elsetree Dr
Charlotte

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