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"They were friendly and helpful, and as promised, called when the work was complete. Said there was a longer than usual wait time for completion but still had the" equipment fixed perfectly in just a week. They'll be my choice again if I need any more power equipment serviced

-John B.

" has definitely earned my business going forward with any issues I have with my mowers. He was professional, courteous, knowledgeable and" got my mower back up and running in an hour. He then noticed a couple of minor things he recommended for me to keep my eye out on, but suggested I didn't need to invest to get these items fixed at this time. I definitely recommend for anything mower related!

-Heather R.

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Local Articles in Charlotte

lawn mower

Lawn Mower Repair and Maintenance

The average suburban lawn mower is a true workhorse, but you might not be maintaining it as well as you should. Here are some practical tips on troubleshooting common problems, how to make some lawn mower repairs yourself and how to maintain your mower so it keeps performing well year after year.

one-story home on a hill with green lawn

Here's how to jump start your spring lawn and landscape projects.

Lukas has had to recruit family and friends to help with the yardwork portion of his business. (Photo by Sandy Moreland)

Lukas Moreland started his lawn care and lawn mower maintence business when he was just 14. Find out what motivates him to keep the business going.

lawn mower cutting grass

Having trouble starting your lawn mower? Angie Hicks explains why it's a bad idea to leave old fuel in your lawn mower for an extended period of time.

dirty lawn mower undercarriage (Photo by Katie Jacewicz)

Experts in lawn mower maintenance say there’s a fix for common issues, but major problems often cost more to repair than buying a new lawn mower.

Angie's Answers


The only time a carburator needs replacing is if you put some really corrosive cleaner in it that ate through the metal (usually aluminum), or if you have physically broken it.

Otherwise, carbs can be rebuilt - rebuild kits (that contain basically all the non-metallic parts, the primer bulb (usually) and carb gaskets) typically run $10-25. A tuneup (carb rebuild and new spark plug) with parts typically runs about $60-80 ($100-150 for rider mowers), although a lot of repair shops have $45-60 spring specials. Probably needs a sharpening too - another $10-15 or so when done as part of a tune-up.

By hiring someone to do it, I presume you mean taking it to a small engine repair shop with a good word of mouth reputation, and being sure to get a dropoff receipt and estimate in writing that you carry away with you.

If it runs at all, or ran last fall, this is probably all you need.

Compare this to the cost of a new mower - for a rider mower, no comparison of course - go with the carb cleaning and rebuild. However, for a standard 20-22 inch push power mower, replacement cost is about $140-250, depending on whether you go with a Walmart special or brand name, additional $100 or so if self-propelled or bagging type.

For a 10 year old push type power mower, if it sits outside all winter or is pretty rusty, since you are not mechanically inclined I would recommend getting a new mower - something like a Sears or Murray Ohio (at Target, WalMart, etc) plain-jane mower for about $150-180 unless you have steep hills or medical issues, then get the self-propelled model. A 20 inch or even 18 inch will do fine for a small lawn; if you have several lawns or a pretty big lawn area (over say 2500 SF) then you probably want a 22 inch - the extra path width makes quite a difference in how long it takes to mow.

If it sleeps in a shed or garage and is not rusting out, I would recommend a new one if the plain jane will do it for you, otherwise if the replacement one that you would buy is over about $250 I would go with the carb overhaul and tuneup.

I would STRONGLY recommend you get a 4 cycle engine - I swear by Briggs and Stratton rather than Tecumseh or other brands. 4 cycles start much easier and are less sensitive to fuel/air mix issues, and the plugs stay clean a lot longer. 2 cycles are lighter for the same horsepower which is why you see them a lot in outboard motors that are less than about 50-80 HP and in small generators and motorcycles, but they are a lot more tempermental about starting, especially in cold weather or after a long storage.

If you pay attention to proper winter storage procedure, rebuilding the carb on the old one should last you another 5+ years. I have a Murray Ohio with 4 cycle Briggs and Stratton engine that is 33 years old, lives in an unheated shed in a northern state, and has had nothing more than annual blade sharpening, oil change every few years, and one carb overhaul and plug cleaning (and ZERO new spark plugs) in its life, and starts by second pull every spring. The key is if you store it inside in a garage to run it dry each fall (so you do not have gas in the garage, for safety reasons in case it leaks out); if you leave it outside I fill the tank to the top so moisture cannot acccumulate from moist air "breathing" in and out of the tank due to temperature changes. I do this with mower, chain saw, leaf blower, weed wacker - all start on first or second pull in the spring (and throughout the summer). If you live in an area with a lot of moisture in the winter air (ours is very dry) you might have to add Heet or Sta-Bil to the fuel can (per instructions) before topping off tank.

You will find other people who say you HAVE to run it dry each season. Their theory is that if there is no gas in it then there is no gas to collect moisture or to evaporate and turn to varnish over the winter (though that generally takes a few years of sitting to happen). My theory is if it is filled with fuel it cannot dry out and leave varnish residue to block the fuel tube screen and fuel jets, plus it does not rust metal fuel tanks by being empty. To each their own procedure.


No personal experience on rider mowers but some with small rider tractors, but since you have gotten no response in 5 days, here is my 2 cents worth:


1) read the Consumer Reports and JD Powers reviews on rider mowers


2) from what neighbors have told me, TroyBilt are maintenance problem and not built very rugged, Sears tend to have transmission/drive train problems, those with John Deere say they were unhappy with the price but they run well and don't have extreme maintenance costs - so sounds to me like JD is best brand out there right now.


3) A recommendation also from personal small engine experience and neighbors - stay with Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle engines if possible, and stay away from 2 cycle engines - they are lighter and cheaper, but have a LOT more starting problems and tend to not last as long.

With you not saying what this is on - could be portable device or very small rider mower - check oill level - some fancier ones on air compressors and pressure washers and rider mowers have oil monitor that shuts it off if oil pressure does not build up. Failed governor spring (rare - would be one of my last guesses) can do this, but when I had it happen the engine ran up to speed and died in only a second or two - not 8 seconds. Governor linkage usually an external metal rod with springs connecting to the carb - try watching it during the 8 seconds to see if it is yanking the throttle/choke setting back causing it to shut down. Also check to be sure not blocked by twig or leaves or such. I would check the plug after it dies - if wet then you are pretty sure you are getting fuel, if dry then maybe it is only getting fuel from manual priming or automatic choke, but then the choke is cutting out and starving the engine for fuel. IF your model has accessible automatic choke linkage (or if choke plate is accessible if you remove air cleaner), try using a long tool (not fingers, in case of backfire through carb) to adjust choke angle to see if that will make it keep running - if you can see it after taking off air cleaner, it should be staying full on for probably 20-40 seconds before it opens up wide open if temperature contr4olled type, but the engine-speed type open up as soon as engine comes up to speed. Another possibility - check air cleaner to be sure not plugged with dirt - wash (and with many models oil) per owners manual instructions. Another common problem - starts on priming or choke, but when on regular fuel flow leans out and dies due to air leak in fuel line letting air in with fuel, or dirty screen in tank not letting enough fuel in to keep it running. Also, crudded up holes in the tank cap can cause vapor lock by not letting air in to tank to replace fuel consumed - remove and take out inner liner and check holes in liner and metal cap are open so you can see daylight through them. Another possibility - look for debris, etc keeping throttle from opening up - could be idle screw jiggled loose and is set too low. Try screwing it in a half turn or so to see if keeps running - because might be starting on choke but then when choke starts opening up the idle setting is too low so throttle is not open enough to keep it running. If consistently runs 8 seconds and dies, try turning the main needle valve 1/4 turn one way, then if tht does not work back the 1/4 turn plus 1/4 turn the other way (keep track of turns so you know where initial setting is) - if one or other makes better than adjust in that range for smooth running and no flooding or leaning out when you open throttle up.
Hi Maurice,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for your interest in Angie's List!
We'll be happy to help find top rated Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair providers, but it doesn't look like you have a subscription to the List yet. You can join by visiting www.angieslist.com or by giving us a call. Our call center is available 8:00 am-9:00 pm weekdays and 8:00-5:00 pm ET on Saturdays. If you join online, you can save 20% on an annual plan by using the promo code ANSWERS.
Thanks for your question and we look forward to assisting you, Maurice!

Since it would not start BEFORE you took it in for service, hard to blame them - even if rainfall did get in it, because they would assume when you delivered it that it was in "normal" condition, whjich presumably meant vaent closed. By "vent" on top of the gas tank I am not sure what you mean - a "vent" should not let a lot of water in, but if you mean the filler cap then certainly you would get about as much water depth in the tank as the number of inches of rain you had while it was sitting out.


Another possibility - vent was open during your fall washing down, and wash water got into the tank, which then ended up in the gas can for the winter, then back to the mower in the spring.


Other possibility - your gas can picked up a lot of water over the winter, particuylarly if metal and stored in a location where it could warm up during the day (evaporates gas) then as it cools overnight forms a partial vacuum so it pulls in moist air, which then condenses in the can and settles to the bottom. If using normal pour spout, the first thing out of the can in the spring would be the water (would be first into spout as you pour out), so water from the can might have gone into the mower at first filling.


Another possibility which is amazingly common - little Johnny decides to fuel the mower for you and poured water or bug juice or such in there.


BTW - most fuel stabilizers do NOT trap water - fuel stabilizer put a very thin layear on top of the liquid to retart evaporation, so your gaoline does not turn to diesel or sludge. To trap water and keep it from settling out you need alcohol - like Heet. Also, when draining tank, you should drain the first part into a clear containear (mayonnaise jar or such) then after it has settled a few seconds pour back to the can, leaving the water in the bottom of the jar to be disposed of.

Hi Kyle,
This is Sarah B. in Member Care. Thanks for posting!
I was able to find several rated providers to help you. For your current need though, our Snapfix specialists would also be able to do all of the dialing for you, match you up with a top rated company and arrange to have them call you to figure out the logistics. If this sounds like something you would be interested in, please fill out the form in the link below and our Snapfix Team will take it from there!
If you would like to reach out to these providers yourself, please let me know. I’d be happy to send these to you.  No matter which option you choose, I hope you’ll take the time to fill out a review when the work is done.
If you would like information on providers through this forum, please let us know. You can respond to this thread or submit a new Answers post. You can also reach us at memberservices@angieslist.com . We're happy to help, Kyle!

Lawn Mower Repair reviews in Charlotte


( ) did an unbelievably fantastic job repairing all of the gas powered lawn and electrical generator equipment that I have managed to in one way or another over the years.
He was meticulous in his work and brought the equipment back to its initial operating capabilities.
...More /> He ran all of the equipment that he repaired for several minutes to ensure that everything was working properly.
He demonstrated an excellent ability to diagnose issues and had all of the tool necessary to repair even the most intricate parts (carburetor on my generator).
I had originally asked him to come over to diagnose and fix, if possible, the generator and blower. Once her was here, I thoughy about my other troublesome equipment and fixed those as well.
He answered all of my questions and went the extra step to ensure that I knew how to maintain the equipment in the future so it would continue to operate as intended.
Not only was he a fantastic mechanic but he is a fantastic gentleman as well - and it was my pleasure to have him at my house to do the work.
I would not hesitate at all to have him back, but I ;t anticipate that happening in the near future, unless I ,manage to another piece of equipment.
I highly recommend and promise that you will have the same experience as me.

- Andy G.

fixed everything on my lawnmower that needed to be fixed. He cleaned out the carburetor, changed filters, oil and sharpened blades. My mower works great and I did not have to load it in the back of my car and haul it somewhere for the service and then wait for a week or two for the service to be done. It cost me about the same ...More as it did last time I hauled it 10 miles for a repair. He was very nice and professional. Good job , thanks!
- Laura G.

I called the phone number listed at 10:15 and told him my problem. I had run over a garden hose and it was wrapped around the blade, and I could not remove it. He said that he would be at my house around noon. He was very punctual and removed the hose, and, then, checked for any damage that may have occured. After his inspection, he said that there ...More was no damage. He wanted me to test the lawn mower to see if it was working in fine condition. I will definitely use his service next spring in order to give my tractor a tuneup for the spring mowing season.
- Arianne G.

He was great - I called in the morning and he said he could be at my house in a few hours. He was right on time. He immediately identified the problem and repaired it in twenty minutes. Highly recommend him.
- Molly S.

I called mid morning requesting a service call. We made plans for him to come that afternoon after 3 pm. He arrived promptly, new exactly what needed to be done and the job was completed within 10 minutes. My husband and I felt that the $75 charge was well worth the convenience of same day, in home service from a knowledgeable professional.
- Fern H.

friend gave me a pressure washer that wasnt working. said he had his small engine guy look at it and quote over $350 to fix - better to junk it. I got it for free, came out and fixed it for $115. Runs great house, brick is all clean.
i contacted and he was at my house the next day. very responsive. ...More great experience.
- Michael D.

came out to fix my lawnmower, which is just a few years old and had stopped running completely. He quickly found the problem and fixed it, then did a routine tune-up and blade sharpening. He gave me some tips to keep my mower in great shape. He was punctual, professional, friendly, and I will absolutely be calling him for ...More yearly maintenance on my mower.
- Krista K.

Fast, efficient, professional, kind, really cares about doing top quality work.
Comes right to your home...no worrying about loading a mower in the car to take it in for repairs!!
I would HIGHLY recommend .
- Jim B.

Lawn Mower Repair Shops in Charlotte

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A.C.E. Contracting Services, LLC

1121 West Charlotte Ave
Mount Holly

Ace Hardware Corp

3716 W Wt Harris Blvd

Albemarle Small EngineRepair

950 Old Charlotte Rd

Allen & Sons Small Engine Repair

8538 Lawyers Road



Blade' Landscaping LLC.

1511 Cuthbertson Rd.

Brothers Lawn Care

Windmill Lane



CleanCut Lawncare

Weddington NC

Danny Barth | Handyman Services

4627 Lakeview Road







Diamond Cut Lawn Service

9700 Research Drive

Elevate Construction Inc

1000 S Fairfield Drive




1128Young st

Hills Tree and Lawn Service

810 Moorestown R.D




Winston Salem

In and Out Repair

6100 Kloss Ln
Indian Trail



J&S Small Engine Repair (mobile)

7603 Shady Lane

JGL Repair

2300 East Providence dr.

Johnny can fix it

1002 Justice Av


814 NC 24 27 BYP E



Mobile Small Engine Repair

1699 Mark Dr


PO BOX 1973



Need A Hand

301 McCullough Dr

Northern Tool & Equipment Co

2516 Sardis Rd N



Ready Repair

4112 Joe St.

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

Respond Tech, LLC

11741 Morgan Horse Trl.

Ricky's Onsite Services

4407 Dalmoor Dr


600 W Charles St Ste A


8036 HOOD RD


1334 HILL RD

STI Turf Care Equipment - Kannapolis

1203 Mooresville Rd


2508 PARK LN


7900 Tottenham Dr

Turf Commanders


TurfBound Landscape LLC

5285 Cambridge Bay Dr

U-Haul International Inc

6091 Old York Rd

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