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"He's a one-man show (usually), and can be a little difficult to contact. But, once the schedule is set, communications are good. And, good quality work is completed on schedule.

-Allen H.

"Bill was professional and skilled in all aspects of this landscaping project. He met with me in August 2014, and was able to get us on the books in November. We" had several requests, namely to replace the messy and unkempt Crepe Myrtles on our driveway with hollies that created a privacy screen from our neighbor's property. His crew worked very hard and was able to complete the job in a few days. This was a small job, but required a lot of digging and labor. I appreciated his foreman's flexibility and willingness to do a perfect job, and desire to satisfy us with all aspects of the project. Bill was always available by text/phone for advice and consultation; and followed up with us to make sure all of our expectations were met. Bill also recreated the natural slope of our landscape which improved the drainage of rainfall on our driveway. We are very pleased and happy with his services.

-Mike S.

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Local Articles in Charlotte



There are many reasons why homeowners need a professional to excavate their yard, concrete or around their foundation. In this guide to hiring an excavator, we'll dig into what situations require someone to do excavation work, what to look for when hiring an excavator, what you should do before you dig, alternatives to excavation, costs to excavate on your property and scams to avoid.

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Short answer - yes it is possible. However, generally you are looking at major $, and a lot of workers tracking dirt up and down the basement stairs unless you have (or can easily add) an outside basement door.

You would need a General Contractor as well as a foundation specialist if you use a General, who will handle permits, minor electrical, plumbing, and drywall repair issues even though most of the heavy work may be done by the foundation specialist subcontractor. If you go the lift beam method, then it might be a house mover doing the lifting, then the General and normal trades handling the rest.

When a house is built with a part basement and part crawl space, the footer (the concrete strip support pad the foundation wall is bonded to with rebar and sits on) typically sits a foot or two below the basement slab. Then, to save money, they "step-up" the footer to a shallower depth for the crawl space. This means that to deepen the crawl space to full depth, you also have to deepen the foundation. It is very rare to put in full depth foundation all around, then backfill part of it to crawlspace depth - if you have gone to the trouble of full depth foundation all around, why not pour a slab and sell the additional basement footage too ? See if you can come up with the builder's plans p they will show you what the footer does.

Deepening the crawl space to full depth is commonly done in one of two ways for residential jobs (there are several more sophisticated methods such as pin piles used on large or very tricky commercial jobs, or on historic buildings with weak foundations and walls) -

1) by carefully excavating the crawl space to the new footer depth (say about 5-8 feet below ground level, depending on whether you have a daylight or full basement) bit by bit along the foundation (3-5 feet at a time, typically), usually tearing out the existing foundation for that section while temporarily support the existing wall and joists, then pouring a new concrete footer and foundation wall up to the bottom of the house beams. Occasionally, they will be able to leave the existing wall and pour the new foundation up to and connect to the bottom of it. Then you move on and do another section the same way, so you are incrementally removing dirt, building a new wall section, then moving on. This is quite expensive because of the limited work space and difficulty of getting materials in and waste dirt and old foundation materials out, and the slow progress due to having to wait for concrete to set before you can buid the wall on the footer, and before you can move on to the next section.

2) by cutting slots in the existing crawl space walls and sliding heavy steel beams through  crossways under the floor joists and picking up the weight of the section of the house over the crawl space on jacks, elevating it about 1/2 inch above the existing foundation, all at one time. Then they can remove the existing crawl space foundation and all the dirt all at once, and pour a new footer and pour or lay a new foundation up to the bottom of the walls, then lower the house back onto it and pull out the support beams.

Either way, because of the restricted work space and waitingon concrete setting, the excavation and new foundation will cost about 2-4 times as much as one done outdoors. Therefore, while this type of job is done on occasion, a contractor's or architect's estimate usually shows that you can build a totally new one story extension or Florida room for not an exorbitant amount more, and that new space is worth a lot more to most homeowners, and certainly to a new buyer, than basement space.

As one example, we had two neighbors years ago who had the numbers run by an architect, and for one the estimate was only 30% more to build a large Florida room than to reclaim a crawl space about 1/3 smaller in floor area. For the other they could get the foundation and rough framing (without siding, roof, or interior) for a basement-less new addition the same size for the same price as digging out the crawl space. For this reason, when crawl space expansion is done on a residence, it is usually a do-it-yourself job (and you have to be pretty experienced to do it right).

One other factor of significance if you dig out the crawl space is all the utilities (wiring, pipes, ducts, etc) have to be checked to see that there is freedom of movement at the interface between the area over the crawl space and the rest of the house, as there is bound to be a little bit of movement between them. It is also almost inevitable that there will be minor non-structural cracking and slight separation of plaster or drywall walls and ceilings at the junction area over the first couple of years afer construction. Nailed-down hardwood flooring and vinyl near the interface can also buckle, though "floating" laminate floors are usually OK. Of course, if the contractor is incompetent or inexperienced, serious damage to the house can result, particularly if the foundation collapses while he is digging.

Therefore, I would not recommend this route except for a very expensive house (as in building a wine cellar or safe room), a historic house where additions are prohibited, or one the owners just love and intend to live in for many more decades but do not have land space for an addition. I would put the money into an addition if you need the additional space and have the land.

Well the fact is he is going to have to pull permits which means it has to be inspected before he is done, you also have to consider the equiptment that he has to bring out to the jobsite to do the job and the man power plus materials, it's costly, but I am not from your area so if you are unsure call another company out and see what they say.
Don't tell them what the other company said as far as price.

It is almost certain that you will have to modify the foundation to make it deeper too - and that is MAJOR structural work.


You need a civil/geotechnical engineering firm with experience in foundation rehab and putting in basements under existing homes to design the process and prepare and seal the plans and specifications, which you will need before you can get a building permit for this. They will also be able to help you select either a foundation excavation or a house moving and jacking company to do the actual work for you.


The engineer can also help you with a cost estimate - because I think you will be surprised how much this is going to cost. I have designed or managed quite a few such jobs, from highrise buildings to homes, and even the smallest houses of about 600SF footprint ran at least $15,000, and generally house basement excavations run more like $25-40,000 unless the foundation was originally designed for it but for some reason the basement was never put in, which is VERY rare except in very deep frost areas were footings are occasionally deep enough to allow a basement to be dug without deepening them. I worked on a couple back east that ran about $100,000 each because they were old 2-story brick buildings, which are very sensitive to differential movements - probably like yours.


A couple of other factors to consider is that in doing this you are likely to get at least some minor drywall cracking and door and window jamming, and be sure the contractor is insured and bonded to the hilt and for the potential rebuild value of the house, not just the job cost, because a major mistake can turn your house into a teardown. Not common, but the less experienced the contractor the more likely he is to do something dramatically wrong, and at the same time the smaller and less experienced contractors generally have lower coverages so your risks is compounded in two ways. With a row home you have the added risk of damaging adjacent units.


One thing to consider cost wise before you go ahead - I have worked a couple of jobs where it turned out cheaper and far safer to scrap the digging in a basement idea and put in an addition with same footprint instead. However, looking back I see you are in a row home, so that is likely not going to work. However, being in a row home, especially if on the Potomac flats south or east of the capital area, the soil conditions are generally the pits once you get off the Georgetown heights, so putting a basement under a rowhome without disturbing the other ones is VERY difficult and pricey - I would be surprised if you could do it for less than $100,000.

One other factor is utilities - one of the first things to do is check depth to any utilities like sewer lines, the Metro, etc - if you are over one of those that could well put your project totally out of the frame of reality.


You asked for a recommendation - one who specializes in this type of work that I would recommend, though your job might well be too small size for them - but they might be able to give you an engineer and contractor recommendation if so. Company name is Schnabel Foundation Company in Sterling Va and Bethesda, MD in your area - website www.schnabel.com. They could handle both the engineering and construction.

If the windows are being put in by a general contractor, he can easily handle the window wells too. If you were looking for a window installer to do the windows, they might or might not do the window wells as well - some do, some do not. A small one-man excavation company can do this excavation, as can a handyman as it just takes about 1/2-1 hour shovel work per window in normal soil conditions, because the soil around the foundation is already pretty loose from foundation constructiuon (as a rule). Just be sure they pour concrete in the bottom to keep water from coming under the well, and that it is firmly fastened to the foundation and liberally asphalt sealed at the interface with the concrete - not just caulked at the edge, but mastic-coated on cleaned concrete BEFORE the window well in installed and concrete poured in the bottom. (Note - the concrete depends on soil conditions and water level - if your soil is pretty free draining and groundwater level never comes up to bottom of window well, then a gravel bed in the bottom is best so it stays dry - but if groundwater rises that high or you are in real impermeable soil like clay, then concrete works best. If concrete bottom is used, you probably want to have the clear acrylic window well cover put on too to keep water and frogs and such out. Of course, if this is an emergency egress window, you cannot put the plastic covers over it legally.

Wow - from way general to totally specific - nice job, you have your scope of work almost ready to contact potential bidders about giving a bid - just need to double check each item hads quantities attached to it, plus a plan with depths (or specify tie-in elevations to existing pipe and required drain/pipe slopes - say 1% or more). Search the List (in green banner bar) for Earthwork and Excavation contractors in your area with good reviews and ratings.

here is a very rough idea of costs - obviously you need bids to tie it down, this should just give you a ballpark to compare to - assuming all this work is done at the same time.

1) & 2) - Tree and rock maybe $100 - more like $200 if you want the stump totally rooted out rather than just the stump and root crown taken out.

3) Walk removal and disposal probably about $100-200 - maybe half if these are 3-4 inch individual concrete squares or rectangles that can be skidded to the side, the excavation and ground sloping done, then slid back into place with a backhoe or bobcat or by wood skids and prybar, eliminating the hauling and disposal cost.

4) Excavation and disposal of soil probably about $20-30/CY, because you are talking a small quantity. Cheaper if you have an on-site area it can be spread out onsite for disposal, or stockpiled in yard as a future project dirt pile, if that is suitable.

5) You don't say what the existing drain is - underground drain for downspouts maybe ? For shallow burial, probably about $5/LF or so. Why square - round is cheaper and far stronger for given material thickness.

6) Fence R&R probably about $150-200, depending on depth of posts and whether concreted in or not.

7) vegetation removal - not knowing how much, $100-200

8) Garden wall around $10-12/SF assuming excavated material from yard is suitable for the general backfill - remember should go 4-12 inches below grade for stability (4" for this wall, more like 6-12 for higher front wall)

Front/side yard:

1) Move large boulder - $50-100

2) vegetation removal and relocate 3 shrubs - $150-300 (not knowing how much vegetation orhow big shrubs are)

3) excavation at $20-30/CY again as above

4) sprinkler system relocate/repair - $75-150

5) garden wall around $12-15/SF as above including concrete footer needed for this height wall

6) area drain laterals about $5-10/LF, assuming not over 3 feet deep

7) slab drainage - I don't know where the quick lime idea came from, but this is a no-go - it will remove a small amount of water (maybe 5-20 gallons) from the soil one-time - it has no long term function as it will quickly become saturated. You are actually likely to have 5 wet circles in your concrete slab from this forever, as the lime will act as a soggy sponge, retaining water that would otherwise wick away. If you have or expect a basement slab moisture problem, then you need a sump pump with sump installed, and possibly (depending on how free-draining the base material under your slab is to carry waer to the sump pump) lateral drains cut in below the perimeter of the slab. Can run from $800-1500 range for a pump and pit depending on capacity and wiring situation, plus $500-1000 for an emergency battery-powered backup if desired. $1000-2500 range typically if lateral drains around the perimeter of the slab are necessary. Cheaper but sloppier and moisture-causing solution is small trenches or above-slab channels to carry the water to sump pump. These laterals are commonly held off on till you see if the sump pump can handle the issue itself, ASSUMING you have unfinished basement so a bit of seepage aroundbthe slab does no more damage than needing a mopping up. Personally, unless you have a continual seepage of water into basement or it is finished so leakage is critical, I would leave sump pump and drains for later - to see if your surface drainage changes eliminates the basement dampness problem, which it commonly does unless your water table rises to the basement slab level. Also, having a sump pump implies water issues and tolls against any future buyer finishing an unfinished basement, so it detracts from resale value if you have one.

Note these are off-the-cuff type numbers, NOT any sort of deliberate estimate - but I felt it was better to give you a ballpark than to just say go get estimates. Except for the floor drains, this sounds like a good job for a small 1-3 man excavation and hauling company, but make sure they have experience in putting in drain pipe and block walls and have good references in that area.

Note- if you are inclined to do it yourself work and have the time, most of this is good homeowner home improvement project material. You could have a contractor with a bobcat or small tractor with small backhoe come and pull the fence posts out (you could remove the above-ground apart easily), trench for the pipes, maybe move the rocks and sidewalk (though you could do that yourself with a few scraps of wood as skids and a 5 foot prybar assuming the walk is in piece, not continuously reinforced, and to do the bulk excavation and hauling for you, leaving the vegetation clearing, pipe work, trench backfilling, final slope dressing, block wall building, transplanting, etc to you - could cut your cost about 1/3-1/2. Basement slab drainage I consider a separate issue which would not cost significantly different if done as part of this job, or later if drainage channels or slab french drains are deemed necessary.

For the excavation - remember to get utility locates - I recommend once for bidding so they know where utilities are, then require the bidder to get relocates just before excavation starts. Gas, telephone, cable TV are commonly less than a foot down - water and sewer usually 3 feet or more but don't count on it. Also worry about septic system is you have that, and any power or water lines to/from well if you have a well. Plus of course your sprinkler system if in the way of proposed excavation.

Good Luck with your project


Excavating reviews in Charlotte


went above and beyond! We are in the middle of a very large renovation and rather than watching us move heavy items...he jumped right in and lent a hand. He was very professional and even sent a thank you email the same evening. I would highly recommend !
- Lindsey H.

Case was punctual, arriving at 9 am Monday through Saturday. We were able to sleep in our bedroom, connect to the master bath in question. They created a for dust and used covers to protect our beautiful hardwood flooring. the various crews were professional and inspired confidence. checked in regularly ...More to make sure things were going smoothly and on time. I was pleased to find out that every project has its own supervisor, who is frequently on the job. I never gave it a thought to their being in the house by themselves. the work they did was masterful and artistic. they did a fabulous job on the cabinetry, the tile work, the fixtures and sinks, as well as beautiful countertops. I know that we were pretty demanding regarding the tile work in the shower. the border that we wanted was unusual and they took the time to find exactly what we're looking for.
- Frank S.

Contacted Me @ 8 AM on arrival time of 11 am
Showed up @ 10:45 AM
Explained what he was going to do and how
Job finished @ 11:30 AM
The job was done professionally and perfect

- George W.

Provider came in Spring of 2013 and looked at the backyard drainage problem. Promised to send an email estimate with price quote and work to be done. Never received quote, called provider a few times, he never returned calls or contacted us.
I read current reviews on Angie's list which were all good. So, I sent a text message to Benjy on ...More Friday. March 22,2014 He text back and said "he did not remember, I dropped the ball " he said. He asked for my last name, I texted it to him. I am waiting to see if he sends the estimate or will contact us this time.
- Ethel C.

has done many jobs around the house from installing a doggie door (of which he is a distributor of the MaxSeal door) to building a 27 foot long doggie ramp for my five dogs from the back door to the driveway. I wanted something and he built a masterpiece with lattice and everything from scratch. He has ...More installed seven flood lights of which he had to do the electrical from scratch, relocated a hose bib, closed off another hose bib, took out a huge hedge to excavate the area next to the house where was water was going into the crawl space. He then built an area with logs to keep the water out, filled it in and layered it with stones on top. It looks beautiful. can do anything you want done around the house and yard. His father was a custom home builder and he learned from his father. does custom work. He can build a house from the ground up. is a hard worker and a perfectionist in everything that he does. He won't leave until it is perfect and you are satisifed. His prices are lower than anyone else. You get more for your money with . You won't be disappointed with and his work. He does a fantastic job.
- Judith W.

I had a whole house stoppage due to roots in the sewage line. This had been a recurring problem which had taken care of yearly for me with drain cleaning. This time; however, drain cleaning could not completely clear the line. The problem was an obstruction in the sewar line that did not allow either their camera or line clearing ...More equipment to be pushed down the line all the way to the problem area. This had been an issue before, each year getting worse. Their plumber gave me an estimate to dig up the sewar line 9 feet under my driveway to repair. He wasvery informative and helpful. He had to rent a bulldozer and some shoring equipment as the job required such a deep hole to be dug. The plumber was on the jobbringht and early the next morning to make sure the equipment was delivered correctly and the work could start right away. He and another plumber worked non-stop until the line was fixed. Turned out the original construction had used the wrong angle pipe to connect to the city sewar line. The connection had also been made with a rubber gasket instead of metal clamps, so the combination had allowed the connection to loosen over time ad roots to invade the sewar. When the bad connection was removed out came 3-4 feet or thick roots. The plumbers made sure they replaced the bad connection with the correct angle pipe and steel materials. They were very careful to fill up the dug up site properly to allow the cement work to repair the driveway to be done right. I was very pleased with 's professionalism and quality service. Due to the holiday weekend the rental company delayed a few days in picking up their rental equipment. I called 's main number back about this and was again treated with the same professional, speedy service.
- rosa C.

I felt the work went well I will have to go back and rake out the mounds of dirt dug out by the track how and build silt dams in the ditch had dug. He came buy after the work was complete and explained how to build the dams and put in the silt fence. I did not ask for a complete job and intended to rake out the dirt and rocks ...More on my own. However I feel he would have lanscaped the hill if I had asked for a quote.
- John K.

We could not be happier with the finished product, the hardscape patio in particular is just stunning. This is our second or third project with and . As per our other projects, 's professionalism and concern for keeping his commitments is striking. As far as the timeline, ...More said that he'd have the project done in about a week once he started, and that the start date depended on the weather, but that he'd schedule our project 4-5 weeks out. About 4 weeks later he called and said that he was ready to start, and sure enough the project was done by the end of the week.

Excavators in Charlotte

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

76 Construction Corp

408 Pondview Ct.

A&B Pressure washing

9323 Bonnie Briar Cir


PO BOX 39317

Affordable Septic Tank

2417 Creekside Dr

All About The Pipes Plumbing Inc

4913 Chastain Ave



Aloha Pools

6401-B Orr Rd

Andrew Roby General Contractor Inc

2000 West Morehead St

ASKI Services Company US LLC

1914 Yaupon Road







Beeler Masonry & Construction

405 Robinson Rd

Bender Custom Homes

8334 Pineville Matthews Rd



Breault Plumbing

3931 Back Creek Church Rd


7261 Cascading Pines Dr

CA Babcock Residential

1233 Greylyn Drive

Carolina Grading Service Inc

806 Fisher Ridge Dr

Case Design/Remodeling of Charlotte

3421-M St. Vardell Lane

CBL Builders LLC

2515 Stanley Lucia Rd.
Mt. Holly

Charles Thornton

14208 Lissadell Cir

Charlotte Patio & Walls

2660 Mount Hope Church Rd

Civil Site Services

9936 Heritage Oaks Ln

Cody Homes LLC

11616 Clingman Dr

Combs Tree Service

3031 Shopton Rd

Controlled Abatement Technologies

7050 Executive Cir

Copper Construction and Contracting

125 Trade Court suite F


5527 Racine Ave.


PO Box 1299



Decks Unlimited

418 Raintree Dr

Delaney Construction

726 E. Third Ave.

Delta Mechanical Inc

2486 Lawrenceville Hwy

Drain Express Sewer & Drain Service Inc

9131 Wilkinson Blvd


PO BOX 445

E R Plumbing Services

648 C Matthews Mint Hill Rd

Earth & Woods

1940 W Hwy 160



Elite Walls, LLC

820 Foxmeade Ct

Environmental Plumbing Services

1617 Belmeade Dr


2110 Mount Holly Road

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr

Fine Edge Design

4917 Rocky River Rd S

Gaddy's Grading

319 Cansler Dr

Gator Pools & Spa

10221 Old Cameron Rd

GradeScapes NC Inc

19954 Crew Cottage Ct

Green Machine Recycling

5916 A Eubanks St
Mineral Springs

Green Thumb Landscaping

9607 Robinson Church Rd


PO BOX 1314

Hard Scapes LLC

PO Box 5332

Harmon Environmental

615 Bruce Thomas Rd

Haugen Trucking

6415 Meadow Ln

Higher Ground Landscaping

15732 Bethel Avenue Ext

Honeycutts Grading and Landscaping

7845 Fisher Rd
Mount Pleasant

Hyatt Landscaping, Inc.

8332 Harvell Rd.

Inside Out Home Designs

2308 Brookfield Dr

IRV Plumbing & Electric

362 Crompton St

Island Creek Landscape

5588 Thomas Ln

Italiano Brothers Concrete Inc

9925 Lancaster Hwy


1480 Rockwell Rd./PO Box 400

J&S Hauling


Jack'S Backhoe & tractor Service

5012 Harmon Rd
Kings Mountain

John Phillips Construction

9073 Highway 221 South

JW Roofing & Associates

825 mutual rd



Kevin James Landscape

PO Box 12659

Kimini, Inc

4716 Doris Ave

Lake Norman Dredging

P.O. Box 3156






1017 Sewickley Drive

Let The Dirt Dogs Do It

773 Beachwood Cove Dr


941 Edgemont Ave

M & V Builders, LLC

2157 Laurens Drive

Makeover My Yard!

12007 University City Blvd.

Mcgee Brothers Co Inc

4608 Carriker Rd

Montrose Construction Inc.

10602 Bailey Rd



Muse Hauling & Grading

PO Box 286

Need A Hand

301 McCullough Dr

North Mecklenburg Plumbing Co Inc

9705 Rosewood Meadow Ln

Outdoor Life Inc

7427 Matthews Mint Hill Rd

Pacific Builders

604 Ideal Way

Parker Services

1610 edgefield av

Paul Davis Restoration Of Charlotte

P.O. Box 668183

Peterson Grading & Excavation LLC

3550 Biggers Rd

Pinnacle Grading Co Inc

11103 Pinnacle Mountain Rd


PO Box 49301

Plumb Masters LLC

2950 Kendrick Rd

Pondscapes of Charlotte LLC

11028 Chestnut Hill Dr

premier improvements

1564 brookbend ct

Privette Enterprises (Visions Landscape)

2411 North Rocky River Road
Indian Trail


3811 Armitage Dr


12122 Cotton Ln.

ProScapes Landscaping & Grading

1278 Shearers Rd

Quan Services Inc

5550 Pinebrook Tr

R & N Construction Group LLC

7219 Shadowlake Drive

Rapid-Rooter Plumbing Services Inc

PO Box 562002

Red Ivy Construction

201 Hudson Dr


8307 DOW RD

Renovations Specialist LLC

42 Gaston Mountain

Rightway Plumbing

546 Griffith Road

Rogers Backhoe & Concrete

8123 Truelight Church Rd

Roto-Rooter Plumbing & Drain Services

1700 Orr Industrial Ct

Roy Carpentry, Incorporated

19727 Coachman's Trace Drive

S & A Landscaping and Property Services, Inc.

2320 Madison Green Dr

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

Sisk Landscape Company Inc

3710 Brookwood Rd


1113 W 1ST ST

Steve Earley Builders, Inc.

6243 S New Hope Rd

Steves Solutions

2425 Johnson ln

Structural Works, Inc.

P.O. Box 12464

Tarheel Outdoor Design Group

2205 Waverly Dr

Taylor Made for You LLC

2400 Rustic Pine Trl


3917 Hwy 74 E

tench backhoe

4039 Oakdale Rd



Terry-Lynn LLC

1596 Jennings Road

The Novak Group

7845 Colony Rd

Three Way Plumbing Services

174 Church St NE

Total Yard Renovations

1809 Myrtle Ave.

W.C. Black and Sons, Inc.

5108 Cheviot Road

Wayne's Plumbing Repair

6305 Carmel Road


1924 Cox Rd.

Woodlands Outdoor Living

PO Box 5466

Zocam Plumbing Inc

6525 Hudspeth Rd

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