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A
"
did a great job. Initially, they were responsive and handled the project quickly. They were informative of what they were doing, and consulted" me with different options. My yard looked totally different. The company's attention to detail was excellent. I could go on about the level of service. The best evidence, however, was that my neighbor hired them a week after he saw their work on my yard. I highly recommend
and his team.

-Brian W.

A
"We have used You & I for 10 years since we bought the place. Would not think of using anyone else. They are great. Capable, reliable and totally friendly. Very glad to recommend them.

-George M.

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Local Articles in Boston

Mulch and Topsoil

Mulch can be a lot of different things, but at its core it exists as a material that is applied to landscaping, walking paths and flower beds for aesthetic purposes, to suppress weed growth, retain moisture and supply nutrients to soil through decay. Topsoil is the nutrient-rich, uppermost layer of soil that is ideal for gardening and planting.

You should check your mulch for compaction about once a month, says McWilliams. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Robert P. of Boston)
Mulch & Topsoil, Landscaping

Before you put down fresh mulch around your plants, there are a few steps to take. One highly rated provider shares 10 steps to prepare for fresh mulch.

pros and cons of rubber mulch
Mulch & Topsoil

Dear Angie: I recently put down recycled rubber as mulch for my front flower bed. How reliable and sturdy is the rubber mulch compared to wood chips?

Landscapers mulch to moderate soil temperature, conserve moisture, suppress weeds and to add organic matter to the soil as the shredded bark breaks down.
Mulch & Topsoil

Looking to add some mulch to your landscaping? Highly rated mulch pros from across the country talk about the different types of mulch.

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Have your crawl space Inspected for water accumulation or excessive moisture. Check for water damage on the sub-floor and joists beneath the kitchen, bathroom and laundry areas.

Inspiration & Ideas

landscape with hemlock mulch
landscape with new trees, shrubs, flowers
fiber cement siding

Angie's Answers

?
I don't care about lawns--I planted mine in clover and don't have to mow it. When I do need to mow I use a rotary Fiskars mower, which is great--or a scythe. That's right--a scythe (the European type, which is smaller, and it's very good exercise). Gas-powered mowers, chemical fertilizers and weed killers--all nasty stuff that gets into everyone's air, soil, and water. I'm sure my neighbor doesn't like my wildflowers, semi-wild pockets of fruit bushes, and unmown areas and yes, dandelions (I have 10 acres) but that's too bad. It's better habitat for wildlife, especially the pollinators on which our food supply depends. I think this obsession with the Great American Lawn is a waste of time and resources. Plant some food instead.


?

One of the more difficult issues facing you will be making sure you compare apples 'n apples while understanding the differences between apples 'n oranges.

Some things common to all:

How far from your (water) meter pit to the home?

Do you know what sort of water pressure you have?

Those two questions sortta drive the rest.  How many sprinklers you have is a piece of the puzzle but it is lower on the issues list than how much water pressure and gallons per minute of flow (gpm) you have.  Knowing the water pressure and gpm coming to the house is important because it is the info divided by the flow rate of the heads to tell you how many you can run at a time.

 That, plus the number of heads it takes to cover your yard will let them decide on how many zones to cut the yard into (each zone is X number of heads that run at the same time).

Will the different estimates be for systems that are all parts from a single manufaturer or will it be a collection of brands?  Some will tell you that the parts (controller, back-flow, heads and even specific heads) are better from different manufacturers while others will tell you that all from a single manufacturer will give you an optimized system.

And, are the contractors equally certified?  Not only education and experience but certifications from the various manufacturers who's parts they want to use.  And, will their installations be the same?  Will they open trenches all around your yard and be a week getting the stuff layed, connected and back-filled?  Or, will they pull the flexible pipe and be in 'n out in one day with water flowing to cover their intrussion before they leave that day?

Will your system need to be blown out with pressurized air at the end of the season to avoid winter freeze and bursts or will it drain automagically?

I know, I took your simple question and made it hard.

When I bought my system about 9 years ago, I had a variety of estimates and the differences sortta fell into the mess I listed above.  The low estimate was a person who seemed to be from the "get it in the ground and fix it later" school.

The highest estimate was from someone who seemed more concerned about my yard and the final result than I was.  The low person was using parts 'n pieces from a variety of manufacturers.  The high person was certified by the company that made all the parts he was wanting to use and he carried a fairly high rating from them for his past performance..  He would vary for me if I wanted but he had sound reasons from the controller to each of the heads as to why he preferred his "brand".

It doesn't look like you are a member of Angie's List.  Given the size of the investment you are looking at, this might be a great time to join and see how others in your community have rated the contractors you are considering or if there is one you should add to your list. 

My yard is between 12 and 15,000 square feet less the house, deck, two mini-barns and it is interrupted with a number of blocking (blocks the stream of water) evergreens and planting beds.

The low estimate I had was about $2,500 and would take three days to put in from the time they began to trench.  I don't recall how many heads he wanted to put in but if it was off, he'd be able to put another anyplace and tie it to the nearest zone to give me good coverage.  Uh, this was the get it in the ground 'n adjust later person.

The high estimate I had was around $4,500.  This proposal was for seven active zones each having 5 to 7 heads.  There was enough capacity (extra zone controllers and space within the system controller) built in to add drip irrigation at a later date for the planting beds without having to replace anything.  He drew the entire yard and gave me a copy with the heads marked showing the "throw" of each and the overlap he built in to avoid any missed areas.  And, they wanted to arrive in the morning and leave that evening with the system watering to cover their tracks throughout the yard.  One day and they would not leave until it was working as advertised!

I took the high estimate.  I have a neighbor who bought from the other folks.  Both of us are happy.  He is really happy because each time he calls his company for adjustments or corrections (yep, they got it in the ground and are still putzing with it) they are out within the week, they are really easy to do business with and their service calls' costs haven't gone up a whole bunch.

Sorry, you can't look at the price and divide by X number of heads and have a fair comparison.

?

1) IF you are talking the root crown - the portion where it is not one solid truck or "bole", but still a solid or near-solid mass of roots coming off the base of the trunk, then that has to come out on way or another. Typically, once you get beyond about a 3 foot circle then you are in the radial portion of the roots where they spread out laterally, and are a foot or more apart, and new roots can grow in that area fro the new tree OK. Of course, be prepared to have to trim some volunteers so the old tree can't come back, and be sure to fertilize the new tree per recommendations because the old roots will still be trying to extract water and food from the soil to support the tree that they do not yet realize is gone. Do NOT put stump killer or poison in the old tree - will kill new one too.

2) The proper commercial way to do this is to have the entire root crown and larger roots removed with a stump grinder - looks like this -

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/build-yourself/117273d1230307978-stump-grinder-questions-stumpgrinderred.jpg

You need a tree service that can grind down at least two feet below ground level and remove the root crown and larger root segments. If you hve large roots running laterally quite a ways, he can grind them up too - ditto to "trippers" sticking up above ground. Just be sure to have it clear (spray painted) upfront how far he is going for what he quoted - typically about $150 for tree up to 1-2 feet in diameter, up to $500 for a massive sycamore or walnut or cottonwood or redwood with 6 foot diameter crown. While you can rent stump grinders at tooll rental places, I REALLY do not recommend it - the rental ones you can afford to rent for one use are pretty light duty, and they can chew a person up in no time flat if you lose control when it snags in the wood or hits a rock.

3) Another way is to go out to where the massive roots taper off to something you can reasonable cut - say 4-6 inches in diameter, and cut them all in a circle around the stump, then with a come-along or CAREFULLY (not more than a few hundred pounds) with a vehicle with a trailer hitch, put a steady pull on a good rope or strap or chain in a shallow notch cut around the top of the stump (so it does not pop off easy), then while it is being rotated up out of the ground walk around and cut any root you see still attached or trying to lift out of the ground. This works much better if the stump is left about 4-6 feet high so you get some real leverage on it with the pull, but if already cut down short run chain or strap over the top of it and around a large root on the far side of the stump. I use a Sawzall with foot long coarse tooth wood cutting blade for this - goes through roots really fast, and blade is only $1 or so apiece so ruining one or two hitting rocks is no big thing, and also reaches in under the stump better and safer than an axe. I helped a neighbor take out a back yard full of birches this way - took us about half a day to remove about 15 trees with about 6 foot diameter circle of crown and roots, leaving holes about 1-2 feet deep where each tree was. Remember this - whichever way you use to take it out, you will need maybe 1-5 wheelbarrow loads of good growth medium to replace the divot. 

4) Cheaper route - cut off flush with ground level (or leave some stickup as a planter or stool or feeder base or whatever), and plant new tree at least 4 feet away from old crown, in a spot between the old roots.

?
'Reasonable' is one of those words that means wildly divergent things to different people.  Check with your local high school to see if they have  any sort of agricultural program.  If yes, perhaps someone in that program could help you.  Being a landscaper myself, I must say it sounds like you want something that is - first and foremost - cheap.   This is NOT the best way to look for any service.  You would be better served looking for 'competant' than with 'cheap'.  The nicer you want your flowerbed to look, the more important it is to find someone who REALLY knows what they are doing.

Mulch Delivering reviews in Boston

A

Rating
Boston Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
is a well organized, well mannered and punctual proprietor. He runs a large operation but he did the estimate and measuring himself. His workers were quiet, polite and very thorough.
Boston Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
, who managed my project installation, was very considerate, congenial and obviously experienced. Clean up was excellent.
Boston Landscaping Mulch Provider Name Locked
also coordinated with another contractor per my request. His communication skills are exceptional. He responds to emails promptly. This may not be your cheapest estimate, but this is a case where quality matches price, in my experience.
- Paul C.
A

Rating
They were VERY responsive, on time, professional, hard workers, and pleasant. In short - they were terrific! Our garden looks fantastic.
- Martha M.

Landscaping Mulch in Boston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

3D Landscaping

PO Box 692063
Quincy

A J Camillucci Co. Inc.

2 Woodland Rd
Ashland

A. J. Tomasi Nurseries, Inc.

299 OAK ST
Pembroke

AA WILL SAND & GRAVEL CORP

125 TURNPIKE ST
Canton

ASC Tree Service

11 Wilson St
Reading

Big Bear Tree

35 Reed St
Kingston

Boston HandyWorks

3368 Washington St
Boston

Brick Ends Farm

464 Highland Street
Hamilton

Brown Landscaping

136 Hamilton St
Worcester

Butler & Sons Tree Svc

128 School St
Watertown

C&J Home Services

25 Washburn ave.
Auburndale

Cappadona Landscape Inc

25 Nutting Rd.
Waltham

Colameta Landscaping

3 Saint Anne
Pepperell

Combat Corp

24 Wright Ave

Community Tree Service Inc

163 Billerica Rd
Chelmsford

Competitive paving masonry

800 boylston street
Boston

Crane's Property Maintenance

405 Groveland St
Haverhill

D.J.SALMON LAWN & LANDSCAPE, INC.

672 Millville Road
Uxbridge

DC Contractors Inc.

243 Bridge Street
Raynham

DiMeco's Nursery & Landscape

374 Sterling St
Lancaster

Dumont Landscape Construction

302 Union Ave
Framingham

Elicone Landscaping Co., Inc.

25 Elson Road
Waltham

european stone workers

475 Staples St
East Taunton

EV Landscaping

9 Newbury Neck Road
Newbury

Favreau Forestry

109 Chace Hill Rd
Sterling

GENERAL SANDBLASTING

45 TURNPIKE ST
West Bridgewater

Giancarlo Bianchi

31A Caldery St
Waltham

GLENN KRESCO CORP

98 E CHARLTON RD
Spencer

GUERRINI LANDSCAPE INC.

703 EAST ST
Mansfield

Gulla Landscape Inc

467 Washington St
Norwood

Guthrie Bros. Landscaping, Inc

15 Munson Ave
Shirley

Handyman Pro

126 Washington St
Franklin

Hillside Lawncare Inc

120 Sanborn Ave
West Roxbury

Howard's of Framingham

1127 Worcester Rd. - Rt. 9 - Ted Williams Hwy.
Framingham

iROOF LLC

24 Page RD

J Martin Landscaping

34 Bartherick Rd
Westminster

Landscape Depot Inc

350 Irving St
Framingham

Landscape Visions Corp

P.O. Box 1294
Concord

LATCHFORD LANDSCAPING

PO Box 1528
East Arlington

Lawn Care Plus, Inc

26 Winton St
Roslindale

Lloyd's Cleaning & Landscaping

48 Folger St
Billerica

Lowreys Landscapes

379 Chestnut St
Uxbridge

Lynch Landscaping Inc.

P.O. Box 463
West Roxbury

MacManus Landscaping

PO BOX 656
Rehoboth

Mahoney's Winchester

242 Cambridge St
Winchester

MARTIGNETTI ENTERPRISES INC

32 MERRILL ST
Amesbury

MasonWorks Landscapes

25 Shadow Rd
Melrose

MATT'S LANDSCAPING

120 POND ST
Seekonk

Mento Landscape & Paving Inc

1157 Washington St
Braintree

Mercer Construction

383 Savin Hill Ave
Dorchester

Midurski Bros. Landscaping Inc.

118 Cushing Street
Stoughton

MJ Nicholls Landscaping LLC

77 Gridley St
Quincy

Modern Landscaping Inc

328 Main St
North Easton

Moodscapes LLC

216 Hillside Ave
Arlington

Plus Landscape Solutions, Inc.,

120 Parker Street
Acton

Ponch Excavation LLC

3841
Roslindale

Pride Fence

20 Eustis Street
Saugus

Primo Paving Inc

PO Box 750107
Arlington Heights

Pro Pave

1078 Pleasant St
Norwood

PRP Services

10 East Wood st

R MAGGIO & SON CONTRACTORS

Po BOX 396
Winchester

REDMOND DESIGN GROUP

153 Lexington Rd
Lincoln

Salt Box Nursery

PO Box 1041
Billerica

Scotts LawnService

95 Ryan Dr Ste 5
Raynham

Scotts LawnService

149 River St
Andover

Seth Berman Gardeners LLC

19 Walden St
Cambridge

Seven Zero Development LLC

34 Shingle Mill Drive

Silvestri Industries Inc

401 Wareham St # B
Middleboro

SnS Services

26 orne st apt 2
Worcester

Socelvic Co

425 Washington St
Brighton

South Spencer Excavating

99 South Spencer Rd
Spencer

STEVE & SONS HOME REPAIR

46 BOSTON AVE
Somerville

StoneAge Masonry

75 Mystic St
Methuen

SUBURBAN YARD SPECIALISTS

P.O. Box 310
Winchester

Taylor Made Contracting, LLC

25 HARVARD ST
Weymouth

Terra Landscape & Construction Inc

138 Fisher St
Westborough

Terra Stone

Po Box 143
Marlborough

THAYER NURSERY

270 HILLSIDE ST
Milton

The Pickard Farm

155 Great Rd
Littleton

Tomaz Construction & Landscape

107 Durbeck rd
Rockland

Tompkins Landscape & Irrigation

128 Main St
North Andover

Will Mow Lawn

71 Jamaica St
Boston

WSC Landscape Construction

P O BOX 2693
Framingham

Young Landscapes

Po box 142
Westminster

Your Garden Curator

176 Albion Street
Somerville

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