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"From the start was extremely helpful in answering all of my questions related to how to handle our tenants complaints of a moldy/musty smell" coming from the vents when the heat was turned on. Throughout the process, was very responsive to all of my phone calls. 's team member, came to do the air quality testing and was very helpful in helping us identify if any of the walls were wet from any water damage so we could out mold as the smell. Nick came to do the air duct cleaning and couldn't have been friendlier. He did a thorough job and stayed late to finish both days. We would definitely use again!

-Scott M.

"We had been away and returned to find an alarming, musty smell in the house. After several days we were able to narrow the source to a basement stairwell and, though" we could not see any problem, we suspected mold. We hired May because he inspects and diagnoses but does not do remediation in the case of mold. We had been warned to separate the two procedures, for obvious reasons. We were also impressed by his prior reviews and his professional background. (He is a chemist.) He was able to come within a few days. He was prompt, professional and knows what he is doing. He also arrives with a variety of instruments that not all contractors may own or use. Within a short time, with the help of his moisture meter and infrared camera, he was able to determine a pattern of very wet bricks extending in a line to the ceiling of the stairwell and down into the basement. With this information we were able to measure from the front wall of the house and transfer information to the interior of our neighbor's house, which coincided exactly with a principal drain line running from the upper floors. They opened the wall and found water. Their plaster walls had shielded them from the odor. They eventually found the source of the leak and, after several weeks, our wall dried and the odor disappeared. With 's lights we were able to see accretions on our bricks which we worried might be mold. Though he suspected not, he took multiple samples for testing, which turned out to be other chemical reactions to the dampness but did not include mold. Although the inspection took quite a bit longer than had anticipated, he stayed until he was able to follow through on his findings. We had the results of the mold tests within 48 hours. We are very glad that we hired May. We would call him immediately if we ever had a similar problem and recommend him without hesitation.

-Leslie B.

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Local Articles in Boston

removing black mold

Mold Removal and Remediation

Nothing strikes fear like the sight of black mold. Learn about household mold, mold symptoms, how to test for mold and the best methods for mold removal.

mold remediation contractor removes baseboards

Few things strike fear and anxiety in the hearts of homeowners as strongly as the presence of mold.

mold remediation contractor secures home

It's never good news when a homeowner discovers mold, especially dangerous black mold, somewhere in the home.

circles of mold growth in wood cabinets

Homeowners can't solve a mold problem by selling their home to an unsuspecting buyer. Here's what buyers and sellers should know.

There are three major home repairs you have to do if you want to protect the value of your home. While they aren’t fun, you can’t put them off. See if you agree with these three unsexy home improvement projects you just have to do.

Angie's Answers

Mold in a basement is a common problem. My company helps people with this every day. Some of the answers you received were helpful but not all the information is correct. First, you need to eliminate the two main ingrediants that mold needs to survive. The first one is water intrusion. This is a must. I am assuming you have no water intrusion as you make no mention. The second componant that needs to be eliminated is moisture. Moisture is also humidity. Basements need to be kept airtight in the summer months. Some folks have posted that you need air flow in your basement. Nothing could be furthur from the truth. When you open any windows for example, not one micron of air goes out of the basement, Warm humid air is sucked into the basement. Houses suck air into the basement and it meets the cool surfaces and skyrockets humidity. The windows must be kept closed and a dehumidification device installed to ensure humidity stays below 60% humidity. The dehumidifier should be energy star rated and purchasing a seperate humidity guage is a must to monitor the unit's progress. We like to keep our customer's basements at 50% humidity. This eliminates the smell that is active mold spore growth. Once the water and humidity is brought under control. Remove the organic materials that have mold on them. Walls, sheetrock and studs that have been affected. Follow the advice of previous posts as you must ensure that you do not affect the rest of the home. Once removed, install new walls using as much inorganic material as possible. We also install vapor barrier over the walls and seal the floors to stopwater vapor transmission into the basement. Poly plastic is not a acceptable vapor barrier. It is not "zero-perm" and will still allow moisture transmission. It will also crack and break into pieces over the years. A PVC liner rated "zero-perm" is the correct product in this application. Depending how large the basement is and if it is sectioned off will determine the dehumidifier strength. We use the Santa Fe line of dehidifiers as they are super energy efficiant and work like a dehumidifier on steriods. I hope this helps and I wish you the best in Basement Health!

Is the cabin conditioned year round or at all?


Are there any grading or moisture issues that are allowing bulk moisture into the crawl?


Conditioning the crawl is usually the best answer but if it is sporadic use and/or makes better sense to leave as a vented space, you need to do the following for optimum performance:


- Install a vapor barrier across the floor.  Seal all piers and penetrations as well as seal to the stem wall.

- Insulate the underside of the floor and ideally thermally break the floor joists from the earth.

- This is best accomplished by covering the floor joist with a rigid foam and sealing all the seams.




When you say vented to the roof, do you mean into the attic UNDER the roof, or through the roof with a duct up through a roof jack into a roof hood ? Hopefully the latter, otherwise you have the likely source of the problem.

You are clearly getting moisture in this area still, so more insulation will not help and may hurt - insulation does not stop moisture but does trap it, particularly if you add enough tht the freezing front moves well down into the insulation, so vapor coming up from the house freezes in the insulation (making it wet when it thaws) rather than venting into the attic and evaporating from there.

You need an expert check on the bathroom area - that the fan unit and any light fixtures are tighly sealed to the vapor barrier. Usually they are installed with about a 1/4-1/2 inch void all around for ease of installation, and not sealed at all, so moist bathroom air vents around themm into the attic.

Then the fan unit needs checking for openings - many have openings in the plastic or metal case from manufacturing that are not sealed but should be. Do NOT use any type of unit that, because of big lights or heat lamp, says it has to be vented and cannot be sealed in, because moist air goes right up through it.

Then the duct from the fan up through the roof needs checking for leaks (and should be insulated, at least if your attic goes below freezing ever), and should have a roof jack where it penetrates the attic - a rubber seal in a metal plate that fits tightly around the duct, so the air blown into the vent hood on the roof cannot circulate back down into the attic. Most installers just cut about a 1 foot opening in the roof (especially if they can install the duct that way without having to crawl around in itchy attic insulation), run the duct up through it into the roof hood, and walk away. That leaves that big opening in the roof sheathing for the wet air and condensation in the hood to corculate right back down into the attic. Some installers (like my house whenn I first bought it) really take the easy route and don't even connect the duct to the hood - they just terminate it a foot or so below the sheathing so ALL the moist air goes into the attic.

I would also check the kitchen and any other bathroom fans for the same leak sources or improper installation, and make sure all vent pipes are intact to above the roof, and that there are no furnace or HVAC ducts disconnected or damaged that could be adding moisture.

Also look around all roof penetrations for ducts and pipes for staining on the underside of the sheathing, which would be indicative of roof hood or jack leaks that should be repaired. (Hopefully, with a new roof you would not have any).

The area most affected should have the insulation moved away and checked to see if the vapor barrier has holes or tears, openings around pipes, ducts, light boxes or wiring, or was maybe totally torn out by some prior workman. If your vapor barrier is not effective, moist household air will move into the attic almost year around, but especially in cold weather, carrying moisture into the attic, where it will condense and cause mold.

Also - if you have a fireplace chase (wood boxout around metal chimney) in that area, it may connect to the house in the firebox area and be open to the attic (which is a real fire spread hazard but for some reason is not contrary to code), letting household air flow by that route.

The mold should be brushed and vacuumed away, then treated - there are commercial sprays that are fungicides that commercial mold and mildew removal contractors have, a sprayed chlorine bleach and borax solution has also been shown to work but you would have to have an air supplied respirator and chemical suit to work with that, which only professional remediation contractors have. Do NOT paint the area - especially the underside of the roof sheathing and trusses. They needs to be able to breathe, not have any moisture from above locked in.

Stains in the attic (assuming this is an unoccupied area) can be bleached, and then if you want the evidence to go away and make it easier to tell if there is new staining or mold, sanded to remove the worst of them.

Stains on areas visible from the outside like walls and rafters can be treated with Chlorine bleach (beware of dripping on good finishes below), painted with Kilz or similar anti-fungal primer, then painted. Stains on the underside of the sheathing visible in the soffit area can be bleached and then when dry, sanded away.

Ventilation is essential, but without removing the source of most the moisture you will not win this war no matter how many times you battle it.

While I would guess the fans and vents are the problem, is there anything different about the attic ventilation to this area versus the other parts of the roof - soffit covers, blocked eave openings, insulation-clogged bug screening or soffit cover openings, lack of air chutes or eave baffles, insulation pushed up against eave opening or up against roof, horizontal blocking that prevents or obstructs airflow, no ridge vent above it, etc ?

If you are not able to find an obvious source of the moisture, I woud consider getting a thermal IR scan of the attic. For typically about $200-300 an energy conservation expert with thermal scanner can scan the attic (might have to be done at night or VERY early morning if done in summertime, to accentuate the temp difference between house air and attic air, unless you have AC in which case turning the AC down low and blower on full can work by pushing cold air rather than hot up through any gaps or voids. If you have that done, check on price to add in the rest of the house too - probably not more than about $100 more, and can show you where your air leaks and poor insulation air. You should try to get one who can provide the entire scan to you on CD or DVD, so you can review it in the future. Here is a link to some images so you know what I am talking about -



Call in the professionals.

There is no sense addressing the mold issue until you resolve the basement leaks.

High ground water that is seeping into your basement is going to lead to long term, serious damage to your foundation and basement walls.  Any mold you remove will just keep coming back.  The first question is the age of the home and whether or not you have working perimeter drain tile installed.  If you home is pretty old (30+ years) it is possible you do not have a drainiage system, or the system is clogged / deteriorated beyond function.  For a newer home, perimeter drain tile was a requirement, but doesn't mean it was installed properly.

I recommend you hire a licensed architect to review your house's construction, the site and look for indications that a drainage system is in place and functioning.  They should be able to find out where the drain comes out, and to check it (after a rain or by doing a water test) to see if it is working.  If it is working, it is possible your system is undersized or only failing in a specific area.  It is also possible a second, lower water table exists that is below your current drain system.  A site change, to change the current flow of ground water or above ground water may resolve your issue as well.  Something as simple as a new drainage ditch, retention pond or higher grades around your building may resolve your issue.

Working with a professional will prevent you from worrying about a 'draingage expert' recommending a high cost repair when another option may be available.

Some drainage people will propose installing a new perimiter drain inside your basement walls.  This system gets the water that gets through the walls and under the floor, and carries it back out.  This is a last ditch idea.  The best method, to solve the issue for good, is to dig back down to your footers, repair the waterproofing on the wall, then place drainage board over it (this protects the waterproofing while allowing moisture a travel path to your drain tile).  Then place gravel fill with geo-fabric over it, then backfill.  Now, no matter how much water you have in your ground, it will be directed away from your basement.

A sump pump in the basement to handle flooding or low water tables below your basement slab will augment this system.

Once you have the moisture issue resolved, then worry about stopping mold.  In the interim, any materials that are growing mold need to be removed (use protective measures).  Make sure you run a dehumidifier at all times and keep air moving by turning on the basement hvac vents or putting some fans in the area.

Working with a licensed architect will help ensure you pinpoint the exact problem, and have a knowledgable person to discuss the options with before doing any costly work.  The architect will also be able to assist with finding contractors and overseeing that the work is installed correctly (It is worthless to redo the drainage if any one area is not done correctly).  Good luck.


Mold Removal reviews in Boston


The showed up on time and the test took about as long as predicted (about 1 hour). The results came back showing a small amount of mold, so we performed a minor remediation. The remediation crew was very prompt & professional and they cleaned up completely when they were done, so everything went very smoothly.
- Jeremy T.

When I first contacted at the recommendation of my plumber at the time (who, as a result of his shoddy work on this job I no longer use), they were responsive and sounded great. The rep said they would have everything done in a few weeks, restored to like condition (this was an insurance job as a toilet on the second floor broke ...More and flooded through our bedroom ceilings, walls, floor and into the basement.

As soon as I signed the contract with them, I didn't hear from anyone for a week. I asked what the hold up was and was told they were securing permits. Another week went by, someone else contacts me and says there is no permit needed at this time, the rep was wrong and they would start the work the next day. For the next 10 weeks everything was stop and go. The bathroom tile job was so poorly done by a subcontractor they had to redo it. That same subcontractor did the bamboo floors, which looked good but instead of buying new trim (which the contract called for) they put on the old trim and did not even paint it. The scuff and gouge in the walls were unbelievable. The floor contractor had to come out several times more to replace the trim and patch the walls.

On to the bedroom ceiling, after it was installed and painted, I noticed a wet stain forming. Called my rep and was told it was moisture in the air and they put a fan on it for a weekend. Water stain got bigger, turned out the toilet was installed incorrectly and was leaking. (Side note, plumber also installed vanity poorly - inch gap from wall to back of vanity - they had to redo that as well. Like I said above, we no longer use that plumber.) They had to rip out the entire ceiling and redo it. The first time the ceiling was hung, before the wet stain, it looked fine, flat and smooth. The second time they had to redo the ceiling after the water leak, the drywall was hung or patched so badly, you could see where each individual screw was by the plaster mound over it. After trying to tell me that's how drywall is done (despite the fact it looked fine the first time they did it) we had them redo it a 3rd time. Finally, it was a flat ceiling again.

Painting - the painters missed numerous spots, we had to point out spots on the trim, behind doors, around frames that they just skipped over. Also, the contract called for painting the hallway and they tried to tell me it wasn't included. I had to pull out the contract several times to make sure they did all the work they were charging the insurance company for.

Finally, the basement. It is the 3rd month into the project and they still haven't gotten to the basement. At this point I was so fed up with them I asked for the invoice and said I would find someone else to finish the work. It took another 2 weeks to get the invoice and several discussions with my rep. The invoices he sent me simply did not add up. I pointed out several mistakes (most in their favor) because I wanted to make sure I was paying the correct amount and I would never have to deal with them again and the rep kept telling me I just didn't understand how the billing software worked. Well, I can understand that 2 + 2 = 4 and 3 + 1 also = 4 and in the end, the totals should match even if the breakdown categories were different (which wasn't the case on this invoice). Finally, after speaking with an office manager and head guy over there, everything was worked out and I was able to pay the bill.

I did encounter some nice people there, the office manager, the owner, and one of the site managers. After speaking with some of them it sounds like I did have a problem rep who was fairly new. But still, a lot of their subcontractors (floors, drywall, paint, plumbing) were not good and needed more oversight to ensure the job was done correctly. I did get a great electrician out of the process who we subsequently hired to rewire our entire basement.

What made this entire ordeal so much worse was the fact that due to the damage and work in process, we couldn't use our two bedrooms. It was a small 4 room apartment and 2 of the rooms were out of commission for three months. My husband, toddler and I had to sleep on the pull-out in the living room for the entire time. was well aware of that fact and still took 12 weeks. To say it was an inconvenience is a massive understatement.

I would never use this company again and I would not recommend them to anyone.
- Christina H.

Called them up. Got a quote for the job. Set up an appointment and they were here within the week. The discussed everything with me in plain language and then mailed us a comprehensive written report withing three days.

Easy as pie.
- Kerry W.

May was professional and knowledgeable. Unfortunately mold was found. When asked he recommended some remediation companies stating he did not do remediation as it would be a conflict of interest. I was pleased with his professionalism, talking with me over the phone prior to visit, punctuality, details in report.
- Jennifer M.

After a hysterical buyer backed out because an inspector said there was mold in our attic, we brought in to assess the situation. We had long ago fixed the source of the water leak. came in and went above and beyond in telling us not only what was going on with the (dormant) mold, but tested air quality, ...More CO and CO2 levels and offered general advice.
- Andrea E.

The overall experience was terrific. came to our house equipped with a multitude of diagnostic tools and spent a number of hours performing his assessment. He continuously explained what he was doing and provided extremely useful tips along the way. is incredibly knowledgeable and experienced. More ...More importantly, he is patient and understands how anxious homeowners can be with some of the issues he gets hired for. He never made us feel like we asked a stupid question. To the contrary, he was very reassuring. His final report includes a wealth of information that is useful for all homeowners to ensure a safe and secure environment for them and their families. We would recommend and to anyone seeking to deal with existing or potential issues in their home.

Mold is a fearful thing to find in your home. provided an honest, and ultimately correct, assessment of what needed to be done. They managed the whole project. They brought in Air Duct Services to do the work. They both were professional, worked hard and understood our concerns. They were patient with our anxious questions and ...More our narrow timeframe. They informed us when they found additional problems, explained them to us and provided us with our options and additional costs. All in all, they were professional and fair in their management of this project.

I called J. Day and made an appointment for the following week. The gentleman was prompt, fully explained what he was going to do and then did it. He detected mold in the master bedroom on the second floor and in a kitchenette directly beneath it on the first floor. The work was very prompt and efficient. The subsequent remediation ...More confirmed the mold in the area where he detected it.
- Henry and Marianne L.

Mold Removal Experts in Boston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

911 Restoration

20 Blaine Street

911 Restoration

20 Blaine Street



A Cut Above



22 Milford Street

A&E Environmental, Inc.

52 Old Willard Road

A-D&T Enterprise,Inc

7 Dover Dr



Able Restoration Inc

170 Oak Hill Way


184 Riverview Ave

Affordable Mold Removal

1248 Washington St

Air Duct Services

100 Messina Dr


282 Central St

All Out Deleading

9 Shenandoah St

Allied Realty Services

329 Concord Avenue

Alpine Environmental Inc

21 Progress Ave

American Building Consultants Inc

15 Channel Ctr St Apt 314

ASAP Environmental Inc

1 Arcadia St

Auburndale Builders

305 Auburn Street

B&A Construction LLC

341 SIlver Lake Rd



Banner Environmental Services

16 Back River Way

Belmonte Custom Builders, Inc.

P.O Box 398

Better Air

1265 John Fitch Blvd

Bonsai Inspection Co

25 Quarry Avenue

Burke & Sons General Contract

439 Patriots Rd

Cameron's Painting

163 Blue Hill Ave.

CJ's Finish Carpentry

505 Maple St

Clean Air Environmental Inc

193 Webster St

DC Construction Services Inc.

84 Crescent Street

Done Right Services

5 Mount Vernon Ave

Dr. Energy Saver South Shore

170 Oak Hill Way

east side safety

Hope Artiste Village

Economic Enviro Techs Inc.

38 Intervale Rd

Enviro Staffing Solutions

530 Broadway # 12




639 Washington St

Epic Cleaning and Restoration

51 Apple D Or Rd.

F Kempes General Contractor

62 Valley St

Federal Environmental Group

168 Humphrey Street

Flood Fire Pro Inc.

11 Chestnut St.


125 Farm St

Focusing Safety

11 Sandalwood Road


Tallant Rd

Green Environmental

296 Weymouth St Unit C

Green Pro Enviromental

550 Adams St

Halliday Construction

1408 Centre St

Hemenhalt Construction

PO Box 332
North Easton

High End Definition

PO Box 354

Home Inspection All Star Boston

380 Washington St.

Home Priority Construction

26 Middle st.

House Pro General Contractors

135 Nickerson Dr

IndoorDoctor LLC

275 Grove St



J H Cleaning Sharon

7 Gertrude St

Jackson Home Inspection Inc

92 Concord St
North Reading

JP Pest Services - Massachusetts

41 Brigham St

Karpet Klean

215 Summit Rd

Lasky Homesmith Services

18 Greenough Cir

Luis Jara Home Improvement

5 Seymour St

May Indoor Air Investigation LLC

3 Tolkien Lane

McDonough Environmental Services

PO Box 2791
Attleboro Falls

McKay Contracting

20 Unsworth St.

Michael A Foote Remodeling

26 Slade St

Mitchell Brothers Cleaning

15 Brightman Court
New Bedford

Mold Removal Boston

56 moody Street
Chestnut Hill


636 Howe Street

Moldguys Restoration

463 North Bedford St
East Bridgewater


2501 Mayes Road

More Than Able

20 Meserve St



Mullen Construction

231 Elmwood St
North Attleboro

National Energy Audits

169 R Merrimac St

National Mold Detection

95 Washington St

NealCass Inc

11A Torrey St


165A New Boston St


PO BOX 2603

New England Surface Maintenance

850 Washington St
East Weymouth

Newton Fire and Flood Inc.

1191 Washington St

Northeast Remediation

107 Audubon Rd

NSC Environmntal

16 Pine st. suite 2A

Odd Jobs Done Right

33 Sylvanus Wood Ln.

Overland Construction, LLC

16 Franklin Street

Pioneer Basement

31 Sanford Rd

PowerBees Incorporated

297 Boston Post Rd

Prime Cleaning Services, LLC

1035 Bedford Street

PRO Restoration, LLC

197 Park St



Property Pro Restoration

1000 Mt Laurel Cir

Quality Cleaning & Restoration, DKI

134 S Shelburne Rd

Quality Services, Inc.

29 Massachusetts Avenue

Quigley Mold Remediation

66 Freemont St


Mr. Curt Guenther
Multiple Locations

Residential Air Quality

1 Marigold Ave

RestorePro Inc

21 A Sixth Road

Richmond Restoration

31 Wildrose Ave

Ryan Home Service

23 Spruce St

Salon Belle Vie

707 Milford Rd

Service Master By Gaudet

6 Jefferson Ave

Servicemaster Dynamic Cleaning

6 High St


177 W Foster St

Servpro Lawrence

8 Blakelin St

Servpro of Cambridge/Belmont

67 Smith Pl

Servpro of Lowell

9 West Adams St



Skinner Demolition

155 Bodwell St.

Sophistication Painting Inc

720 Waverly St 1F


P.O. BOX 621

Steve E Valenti Builders Inc

151 Magazine Street

Sunnyside Services LLC

9 Baker Ave
West Yarmouth

Target Inspections, LLC

24 School Street
West Dennis

The House Doctors

349 Marlborough St

Top Coat Painters

120 Branch Hill Rd

Top Notch Transitional Services

3 Boulevard St

UCM Services Needham

1040 Great Plain Avenue

Universal Abatement Services

57 Chase St.

Value Dry

494 Franklin St

Virtus Group - National Team

8765 Stockyard Drive



We Do That LLC

71 Grovers Avenue

World Wide Drying

267B Soutah Main St

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