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B
"So, the guys are really great. Very earnest, communicative, reasonable, timely, nice, etc.etc. It started out so well. We were rookies and they were very patient." As things went a long, they got some other jobs though and there were so many sub-contractors to coordinate, that things went a little haywire -- the funniest/most tragic incident was when movers filled a storage room full to the brim with furniture only for BGB to realize they had forgotten to prep and paint it. There were some other mistakes and gaffs, but that was on both sides. All in all, it was much better than it could have been. They were pretty honest about when things went wrong. The on-line web-based software they use allowed us to keep track of costs and see pictures and in some cases we were able to spot errors or omissions from the pictures they posted. Such as when they charged us for wall insulation, but we saw from the pictures that they hadn't really been able to fit the insulate behind the walls (too thin). We were not on site so that made communciation and timelines more challenging. We ran about 3 months late due to delays in permits and them having other jobs and getting distracted. One thing that made me sort of crazy was when they made a mistake, they often charged us for the time it took them to correct it. I was able to put a stop to that through discussions. I withheld the final payment for a few weeks until we settled some concerns about the structural work, and the boss threatened to put a on the house. I thought that was rather bullying, but I guess money is tight in the industry and contractors are not known for their good manners.

-Ellen M.

A
"While my costs were covered by the City of Boston Home Energy Initiative, I was quite pleased with the 3 gentlement who performed my work. They were punctual, professional," polite and cleaned up nicely when the work was complete. I would recommend them to a friend

-Patricia W.

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Local Articles in Boston

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers

?

Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.

?

A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

?

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Insulation reviews in Boston

A

Rating
we've had our sound-proof windows for nearly a year now and couldn't be happier. Before the windows were installed, my sleep was being repeatedly interrupted by sirens, drunk college kids, noisy garbage trucks, etc. The results of the windows were immediate and amazing. I have no doubt that it has increased the value of the property and ...More distinguishes our home from others in the area. One recent morning, I noticed a loose part in the kitchen window. It didn't affect the sound insulation, but it was difficult to keep the window open. I gave a buzz, and he was at our condo and had the window fixed free-of-charge THAT afternoon. He explained the part can come loose when the window is opened too much. While he was over, we also pointed out that in some areas the caulk was cracking, and although this wasn't affecting the sound and was hardly noticeable, it was visible if the windows were inspected closely. He offered to come back with his tools and fix that as well, and indeed he did within the week. He even left us the matching caulk so we could repair it ourselves if needed. I really don't think we could ask for more professional and responsive service than what we have received so far.
- Adrienne G.
A

Rating
They were actually amazing. His crew is reliable, on time, easy to get a hold of, and they are detail oriented. I am very comfortable using this company. If we were to remodel our home again we would definitely use him again. He made sure we knew everything that was going on with our project. I had a vision of what I want and he exceeded our expectations. ...More At the very end of the work, they send someone to clean twice. This is what it means to follow up on a project. I always try to recommend this company to my friends.
- Sherry H.
A

Rating
They did a great job. With the extent of the work and custom fixtures, it did take a bit longer than we had originally expected it to, but the work done was exceptional! They quickly gutted the existing bathroom, leaving us without a shower for several weeks, but we still had use of the toilet. They lined the path to the bathroom with paper to help ...More minimize the dust and dirt of such a major renovation and kept major equipment and supplies contained on the back deck or in a small section of the kitchen, later removing all of it (including garbage) as part of the well-written contract. They worked with us, changing aspects we didn't like initially, always willing to work with us as our vision for the bathroom changed, even letting us pick out and buy some fixtures (our choice) ourselves. Overall, a very professional team and a job extremely well-done...
- Chris B.
A

Rating
They were very professional. They did a good job. They were kind of messy. I would recommend them. They were very dependable. They were very polite. They knew what they were doing.
- Martin D.
A

Rating
Very good! gave me an estimate and was able to schedule me soon once I agreed to go ahead. His workers left nails all around the perimeter of the house, and he said he would send them back to clean them up. (I did get a flat tire from a nail soon after the work, but I don't know if there was a connection because I didn't ...More get the nail in the tire back.)
- JANE E.
F

Rating
Although the administrative assistant claimed on 3 separate occasions that someone would call me back no one ever has. They are very unprofessional. If this is the way they treat new customers before they get your money, I would hate to see how they behave once they have your money.
- ROXI H.
A

Rating
We have an 1864 brick row house - 3 stories and a garden level basement. we've been renovating the place incrementally, and this year we were focused on insulation, beginning from the basement up. came out to provide the estimate and oversee the work. We wanted to replace the front and rear doors to the basement to stop ...More air leakage. This required not only new doors but work on the frames. Replacing the front basement door so that it was air tight required some creativity because there was a floor drain sitting inside the basement behind that door. I wanted the drain moved to be outside and in front of the door at the base of the steps leading to the basement. Sub-contracted masons had to rework the bottom step to move the drain, which meant pouring some new concrete. The masonry work was functional but not particularly pretty.
We also wanted to replace the windows to the back basement wall, which is exposed to the back garden, and insulate the wall. Because there was very little space between the outer brick and the drywall (making it difficult to insulate), we decided to reframe the wall in order to be able to use insulation. As it turned out, this was a good decision because the window casings had to be completely demolished and rebuilt too. We also had them replace the rear basement door leading to the garden.
The other major part of the project was renovating the front entryway to the house. The old entryway was a plain wood structure with a glass transom and a glass stormdoor. We wanted the entryway rebuilt with a decorative facade, a new stormdoor, and installation of a pair of antique, lead stained glass windows that we picked up at a New England Demolition and Salvage in New . We weren't sure how they were going to install the stained glass, since the windows were very old and the lead was pretty soft and brittle. They (Rogerio and ) did an excellent job on installing the windows and creating the new entryway facade (no small feat because the building itself is a little crooked).
There was quite a bit of other work to the entryway. The last genius who owned this place painted over the brick in the entryway and we wanted that removed. A lot of other contractors that we've talked to wouldn't touch this project, but 's guys brought in a high pressure water hose and got almost all of it off. The last big thing in the entryway was the front door itself. It is the original 8 foot tall, quarter sawn oak door (you can see the tiger stripes) with a glass look-through. A lot of damage had been done to the door from repeated changes of locksets, and the entire door needed refinishing because the shellac was peeling. 's guys completely refinished (sanding, staining, polyurethane) the entire door and repaired the old lockset holes so that they are invisible. They installed a really nice new lockset that we picked up and the door looks beautiful now - lots of compliments from neighbors.
The whole project took considerably longer than we anticipated. They started the work in October 2012 and didn't finish until February 2013. Part of this was due to unforeseen problems on their end (events which were understandably out of their control), and, of course, winter weather. They were always responsive, but often unable to come to the house on the days originally promised, which required flexibility on our part. In any case, the length of time was the biggest shortcoming. However, was consistently responsive whether I called, emailed, or texted. Everyone was very polite and friendly and clean. Overall the work was well done. I wasn't terribly impressed by the sub-contracted masons, but anything done with woodwork was excellent. When I noticed small imperfections, and his guys made no bones about fixing it to our satisfaction and repeatedly asked how we felt about the work. also was thorough about fixing problems. After finishing the back basement wall, we had a big rainstorm (sideways rain) and I came down to the basement to find a puddle of water in the room leading from the new wall. surmised that it was likely due to improper caulking on a first story window above the basement, allowing water to run down the inside of the wall. Nevertheless, he reopened the newly finished wall to inspect the insulation and the wall. In addition, he caulked that first story window (not in the contract), and also went out and bought and installed a downspout extension (no charge) to ensure water wasn't soaking the outer wall. He left the wall in the basement open until I was satisfied that water wouldn't come through. Sure enough, we got hit by another big rainstorm shortly after and no water came in.
I will rehire them for future work.
- Marcos L.
A

Rating
We have an 1864 brick row house in East Boston - 3 stories and a garden level basement. we've been renovating the place incrementally, and this year we were focused on insulation, beginning from the basement up. came out to provide the estimate and oversee the work. We wanted to replace the front and rear doors to the ...More basement to stop air leakage. This required not only new doors but work on the frames. Replacing the front basement door so that it was air tight required some creativity because there was a floor drain sitting inside the basement behind that door. I wanted the drain moved to be outside and in front of the door at the base of the steps leading to the basement. Sub-contracted masons had to rework the bottom step to move the drain, which meant pouring some new concrete. The masonry work was functional but not particularly pretty.
We also wanted to replace the windows to the back basement wall, which is exposed to the back garden, and insulate the wall. Because there was very little space between the outer brick and the drywall (making it difficult to insulate), we decided to reframe the wall in order to be able to use insulation. As it turned out, this was a good decision because the window casings had to be completely demolished and rebuilt too. We also had them replace the rear basement door leading to the garden.
The other major part of the project was renovating the front entryway to the house. The old entryway was a plain wood structure with a glass transom and a glass stormdoor. We wanted the entryway rebuilt with a decorative facade, a new stormdoor, and installation of a pair of antique, lead stained glass windows that we picked up at a New England Demolition and Salvage in New . We weren't sure how they were going to install the stained glass, since the windows were very old and the lead was pretty soft and brittle. They (Rogerio and ) did an excellent job on installing the windows and creating the new entryway facade (no small feat because the building itself is a little crooked).
There was quite a bit of other work to the entryway. The last genius who owned this place painted over the brick in the entryway and we wanted that removed. A lot of other contractors that we've talked to wouldn't touch this project, but 's guys brought in a high pressure water hose and got almost all of it off. The last big thing in the entryway was the front door itself. It is the original 8 foot tall, quarter sawn oak door (you can see the tiger stripes) with a glass look-through. A lot of damage had been done to the door from repeated changes of locksets, and the entire door needed refinishing because the shellac was peeling. 's guys completely refinished (sanding, staining, polyurethane) the entire door and repaired the old lockset holes so that they are invisible. They installed a really nice new lockset that we picked up and the door looks beautiful now - lots of compliments from neighbors.
The whole project took considerably longer than we anticipated. They started the work in October 2012 and didn't finish until February 2013. Part of this was due to unforeseen problems on their end (events which were understandably out of their control), and, of course, winter weather. They were always responsive, but often unable to come to the house on the days originally promised, which required flexibility on our part. In any case, the length of time was the biggest shortcoming. However, and were consistently responsive whether I called, emailed, or texted. Everyone was very polite and friendly and clean. Overall the work was well done. I wasn't terribly impressed by the sub-contracted masons, but anything done with woodwork was excellent. When I noticed small imperfections, and his guys made no bones about fixing it to our satisfaction and repeatedly asked how we felt about the work. also was thorough about fixing problems. After finishing the back basement wall, we had a big rainstorm (sideways rain) and I came down to the basement to find a puddle of water in the room leading from the new wall. surmised that it was likely due to improper caulking on a first story window above the basement, allowing water to run down the inside of the wall. Nevertheless, he reopened the newly finished wall to inspect the insulation and the wall. In addition, he caulked that first story window (not in the contract), and also went out and bought and installed a downspout extension to ensure water wasn't soaking the outer wall. He left the wall in the basement open until I was satisfied that water wouldn't come through. Sure enough, we got hit by another big rainstorm shortly after and no water came in.
I will rehire them for future work.
- Marcos L.

Insulation Contractors in Boston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & A Services Inc

115 North St
Salem

A Cut Above

Wakefield

A D CONSTRUCTION LLC

22 Milford Street
Boston

A M CONSTRUCTION MANAGEMENT INC

52 NANTASKET AVE
Hull

A&B Lumber Co., LLC

129 Sheep Davis Road

A&E Environmental, Inc.

52 Old Willard Road
Leominster

A-Pro Corp

136 Sharon St
Medford

A.R.T. Home Solutions

598 Beacon St.
Lowell

ABACUS BUILDERS

190 old colony ave
Boston

AENGUS MORRIS PLASTERING LLC

10 MADISON AVE
Quincy

Affinity Construction, Inc.

25 Osgood St.
Salem

Affordable Mold Removal

1248 Washington St
Holliston

Alcantara Contractor

61 Tainter St
Medford

Alexis Home Remodeling

98 Rossmore Rd
Jamaica Plain

All Day Construction Services

192 Kennedy Dr
Malden

Alpine Environmental Inc

21 Progress Ave
Chelmsford

AM Handyman Services

169 Charles st

AM Remodeling

Brockton

AMBIENCE CONSTRUCTION

75 COLUMBIA ST
Cambridge

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Anchor Insulation - Framingham, MA

1500 shawsheen st.
Tewksbury

Anchor Insulation - Tewksbury, MA

1500 Shawsheen Street
Tewksbury

Anderson Insulation

720 Brockton Ave
Abington

Andujar's Home Improvement

28 Short St
East Walpole

Ark Services

35 Middlesex Rd
Waltham

Asbestos Man Removal Co

929 State Rd
Plymouth

Associate Roofing Inc

21 Arnold St
Braintree

Athanas Construction

37 Wituwamat Rd.
Weymouth

Atlas Glen-Mor

295 Eastern Ave
Chelsea

Auburndale Builders

305 Auburn Street
Auburndale

B & B AFFORDABLE RENOVATIONS INC

28 PHILLIPS BROOKS RD
Westwood

B&A Construction LLC

341 SIlver Lake Rd

Baltic Home Improvement

50 Carey Ave
Watertown

Barra Building

99 Bigelow St
Quincy

BB Homes

69 Sharon St
Medford

Belmonte Custom Builders, Inc.

P.O Box 398
Bridgewater

Benjamin Construction Group Inc

519 Somerville Ave.
Somerville

Bennett Painting Plus

6 Russell Trufant Rd
Carver

BENTO CONTRACTING INC

18 TIMOTHY AVE
Everett

Bert Murphy Construction Inc

71 Belcher Cir
Milton

Bertola Custom Homes & Remodeling

248 River Street
Waltham

Better Air

1265 John Fitch Blvd

Boston Best Construction

220B Farimount Ave
Saugus

Boston Builders Bureau

30 Stearns Road
Brookline

Boston Building Resources

100 Terrace St
Boston

Boston Exterior Design, Inc.

939 N. Main St
Randolph

Boston Insulation

82 Broad Street
Boston

Boston Painting Services Inc.

83 Woodlawn St
Everett

Breeze Carpentry & Construction

19 A Vital Ave
West Bridgewater

Buildtech,Inc.

5 Granite ST
Methuen

ByHome LLC.

325 Commandants Way
Boston And Surrounding Area

Byron Drywall Company

429 Andover Street
Lawrence

C M FORTIER DESIGN-BUILD

757 LANCASTER AVE
Lunenburg

C. George Plaster

2246 Providence Rd
Northbridge

CHARISMA REMODELING & CONSTRUCTION

512 Pawtucket St
Lowell

Ciccketti & Sons Construction

16 Johnson Dr
Walpole

CIRCA EXTERIOR RESTORATION

29 CORNET STETSON RD
Scituate

CJ Renovations

38 Blue Hill Ave
Milton

CJ's Finish Carpentry

505 Maple St
Danvers

Clean Air Environmental Inc

193 Webster St
Boston

Clean Planet

1069 Main St. Suite 321

CLEANCARE CLEANING SERVICES, INC.

17 SEWALL ST UNIT 1
Peabody

COASTAL INSULATION SYSTEMS

95 Washington St
Canton

Coen Construction

10 Harriet St
Boston

Complete Property Care

8 Alton Place Suite 4
Brookline

Conroy Plastering

93 Train St
Boston

Constitution Contracting

181 Stedman St
Lowell

Construction Specialties, LLC.

9 Poplar Street
Worcester

Contemporary home renovations

2393 Mass ave
Cambridge

Context Studios LLC

3 Lanes End
Framingham

Continental Concepts Inc.

216 Webster St
Malden

Couple Contractors

74 Prescott St
Newtonville

Cromer Remodeling

40 CHESTER AVE
Waltham

Crystal Construction

95 Bellevue St.
Boston

CSA Construction Services LLC

20 Mooney St
Cambridge

Cudeso LLC

71 Summer St Suite 3C
Haverhill

Custom Insulation

16 Jacques St
Worcester

Danusis Construction

27 Mockingbird Lane

DC Construction Services Inc.

84 Crescent Street
Franklin

Dedominici & Sons Remodeling

500 Colonial Drive
Ipswich

DiOrio Builders & Designers Inc

5050 Washington St
West Roxbury

E Cox Construction

383 Highland St
Dedham

east side safety

Hope Artiste Village

Eastern Insulation

51 garden circle unit 8

Eco Insulation & Weatherization

Pearl Street
Stoughton

ELITE CONSTRUCTION & DESIGN, INC

644 River St
Fitchburg

Eloi Construction

19 Wilson St
Lynn

Elton's Contracting, Inc.

15 Hill Rd
Holbrook

EM Snow Inc

971 Main St
Waltham

Environmental Spray Foam

644 Washington Ave.
Chelsea

Envision Renovations

72 Tapley Ave
Revere

Everest Insulation

50 Elizabeth Ave

Express Remodeling Group, Inc.

245A BOSTON AVE
Medford

F Kempes General Contractor

62 Valley St
Malden

F&W Pest Control

357 Worcester Rd
Framingham

Fahey's Tire Center Inc

28 New Salem St
Wakefield

Falcone Home Solutions

133 Blue Hill Avenue
Boston

FD Sterritt Lumber Company

110 Arlington St
Watertown

Fire & Ice HVAC LLC

14 Greymere Rd
Brighton

First Class Roofing

160 Baker St
Walpole

Five Star Discount Roofing

22 Hudson St
Halifax

Five Star General Services

14 Suite B
Lawrence

G&G Home Improvement

168 Turnpike St
Stoughton

Galloway Home Improvements

328 Beacon Street
Lowell

Gardner Automotive Llc

1068 W Boylston St
Worcester

Geo-Pom Construction

74 Stanton Street
Boston

GF Construction

46 Kenmere Road
Medford

GF SPRAGUE

45 Kearney Road
Needham Heights

Glynn Contracting, Inc

11 Lantern Lane
Lynnfield

GM Property Services Corp

346 Medford Street
Malden

Gpconstruction

Tallant Rd

Green Bean Energy

67 Kemble St.
Boston

Group Work Design Build

7 Windsor Dr
Plymouth

Guild Construction Co

180 Balcom St
Mansfield

GW & Sons Builders

24 Roselin Ave
Quincy

Gypsum Installations

137 London Court

Halliday Construction

1408 Centre St
Roslindale

HANDY PROS

PO Box 290057
Charlestown

Handyman Everest

302 Beacon St 2 Apt.2
Somerville

Handyman Matters of Greater Boston

401 Lowell St
Lexington

Handyman Pro

126 Washington St
Franklin

HandyMan Sean Home Services

41 Mount Vernan St
Brighton

Handyman Specialist

58 Upham St
Malden

Hanover Hill Insulation and Siding

724 E Industrial Park Drive

Harvey Building Products Waltham MA Warehouse

19 Athletic Field Road
Waltham

HB Construction corp

22 Pierce st #2
Malden

Hemenhalt Construction

PO Box 332
North Easton

Henry Scopa Home Improvements

16 Shetland St
Boston

HERGON DESIGN INC

188 LINCOLN ST
Revere

High End Definition

PO Box 354
Billerica

homework unlimited co.

329 mill st.
Belmont

Hourihane Carpentry

842 Commercial St
Weymouth

House Pro General Contractors

135 Nickerson Dr
Stoughton

HUGH'S ENERGY CONSERVATION

259 Milton St
Dedham

HUGHES OIL

177 Wells Avenue
Newton Center

Impresair Environmental Corp

439 Ferry St
Malden

INSULATION PLUS

28 LAKESHORE DR
Hopkinton

Intensity Spray Foam

19 Everett Ave
Somerville

J C Overhead Door Co

100 Bouve Avenue
Brockton

J R Maintenance & Remodeling

3 Judith Rd
Chelmsford

Jaguar Contractor

155 Woodley
West Roxbury

Jancon Exteriors

PO Box F
Franklin

Jason Hutchinson

71 Mozart St.
Jamaica Plain

JAZ Building and Remodeling LLC

4 Minute Man Drive
Bedford

Jb carpentry

78 norwood st

Jeffrey Willette

14 Cleveland Avenue Apartment 1
Brockton

JJ Calnan and sons Contractors

17 Reservoir Road
Lynn

JJ Construction

23 Hazelwood St
Malden

Joe Green Home Solutions Inc

15 Raddin Ter
Saugus

John Crichton Plastering

6 Flint Loche Ln
Medfield

JP Pest Services - Massachusetts

41 Brigham St
Marlborough

JR Builders DBA

38 sanford st

KA & EM Enterprises LLC

14 Harding St
Milford

Kenco Development

140 Charles St
Reading

khyco

210 PARK AVE, STE 291
Worcester

King Remodeling

Leominster

King Remodeling

720 Hall St
Leominster

KITCHEN CENTER FRAMINGHAM INC

1 EDGELL RD
Framingham

Kostkutters1.com

113 Albion St
Wakefield

KPF CONTRACTING INC

58 WEBSTER ST
Douglas

Lambert & Sons

3 South Street
Marlborough

LeClair Carpentry and Maintenance

30 Kinsley St.
Stoughton

Levelitt Construction

120 Myrtle Street
Ashland

Marco Polo Construction

121 B Tremont St.
Brighton

Mattos Co

15 Waite Ct
Malden

McLaughlin Weatherization

12 Twin Oaks Rd
Reading

MCS Environmental

425 Main St
Hudson

MDH Construction

98A Esta Rd
Plymouth

MECHO CONTRACTING INC

PO Box 577
Methuen

Merlin Handyman

82 Wellsmere Rd
Roslindale

METRO INSULATION INC

39 WELLSMERE RD
Roslindale

MF Construction USA

15 Hines Ct
Marblehead

Michael A Foote Remodeling

26 Slade St
Belmont

Millennium Renovation

8 Main Street
Douglas

MJ Home Services

Florida Ct
Maynard

Modern Pest Services - Newton, MA

1203 Washington Street
Newton

More Than Able

20 Meserve St
Hopkinton

Moynihan Construction

15 Dawes St
Boston

MPC Builders

26 Crestway Road #!
Boston

MyCraftsmen

PO BOX 22
Chelmsford

N6 Energy Inc.

50 Terminal St.
Boston

National Energy Audits

169 R Merrimac St
Woburn

National Lumber

112 HIGH ST

National Lumber

25 CENTRAL ST
Berlin

New England Soundproofing

190 Felton St
Waltham

New England Surface Maintenance

850 Washington St
East Weymouth

NEWPRO

26 Cedar St
Woburn

Next Step Living

21 Drydock Ave
Boston

North Shore Roofing

281 Andover St
Danvers

Nuview Remodeling

2 Neptune Rd
Boston

O'LYN Roofing

916 Pleasant St
Norwood

O'Sullivan Installs

25 Sullivan Rd Unit 5
Billerica

On Top Construction& Masonry

220 Quincy Ave
Quincy

OUR HOUSE design+build

59 High St
Reading

Panzieri Construction Incorporated

28 Spruce Street
Foxboro

Paul Gentile Painting

18 Temple St
Abington

PJA Services

768 Waverly St

Pkm Home Improvement

19 Boston Post Road
Wayland

PLG Contracting

12 Morris St
Everett

POLITANO INSULATION

2 Becket St
Salem

Prado Painting

37 Audubon Rd
Framingham

PRATHER CONSTRUCTION CO INC

250 MILTON ST
Dedham

Pro Insulators

71 Maple St
Mansfield

PRO-CARE INC

3 N MAPLE ST
Woburn

PROFOAM OF MASSACHUSETTS

180 Bryant St
Berkley

Properties Refined LLC

P.O. Box 203
Sudbury

Property Pro Restoration

1000 Mt Laurel Cir
Shirley

Pros Home Services Inc

449 Boston Post Rd E
Marlborough

QUALITY CONSTRUCTION

145 Newton Rd
Haverhill

Quality Insulation

110 Perimeter Rd

R & D Designs, Building and Remodeling

22 Pleasantview Ave
Brockton

R.M.C. SERVICES

31 POPE ST
Hudson

RAINBOW ROOFING & SIDING INC

67 ISLAND AVE
Quincy

Recon Roofing & Gutter Service

4 Cypress St
Watertown

Remodel Boston

516 East Second Street
Boston

RemodelWerks

621 Main Street
Shrewsbury

Renaissance Carpentry

44 Williams St
Malden

Rennovare Construction

lexington st
Watertown

ReNu Home Services

26 Blueberry Ln
Hudson

RETRO FOAM OF MASSACHUSETTS

110 GIBSON ST
Boston

RETROFOAM OF MASSACHUSETTS INC

110 GIBSON St
Boston

RW Gledhill Inc.

37 Lawson Rd
Scituate

S + H Construction Inc

26 New St
Cambridge

SAM ROSARIO CONSTRUCTION

5 TOWN BEACH ROAD
Leicester

Saoirse Design Build

68 Main Street
Hull

SCFay Construction Corp

88 Marked Tree Rd

Seaway Services

627 Ferry St
Marshfield

Sergio's Renovations

1033 Fellsway
Medford

SILMAC General Remodeling Inc

37 Jonathan Lane
Malden

Simons Brothers Inc

17 Conifer Dr
Walpole

Skillville Corp

23 Boutwell St
Wilmington

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Socelvic Co

425 Washington St
Brighton

Solutions Handyman & Tree Services inc.

600 Bedford st
Bridgewater

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Speers Custom Builders

28 Oliver Neck Rd
Plymouth

Spray Foam By Mavros

7b Webster Street
Peabody

Spray Foam Pros

50 Redfield St, 212
Boston

SPRAY INC

55 TEELE RD
Bolton

STEVE & SONS HOME REPAIR

46 BOSTON AVE
Somerville

SUBURBAN INSULATION CO

P.O. Box 456
West Bridgewater

Sun Property Group Inc

116 W Broadway
Boston

Sure Seal of NE LLC

199 Ctr Depot Rd
Charlton

T & D Remodeling

North Billerica

Terrene of New England

275D Centre St
Newton

Tetreault Construction

22 Brooks Pond Rd
Spencer

THANK YOU HANDYMAN

500 WASHINGTON ST
Dedham

The Best Insulation

54 Knox
Concord

The Best Insulation Corp.

64 Knox Trail
Concord

The House Doctors

349 Marlborough St
Boston

Thomas J. Remodeling LLC

10 Lewis St
Maynard

Timber Tek LLC

70 Harvard Rd
Littleton

Tolman Insulation And Home Improvement

8 Winchester Ave
Worcester

Tom Curren Companies

225 Riverview Ave
Auburndale

tom gaudet

378 tremont st
Rehoboth

Top Notch Transitional Services

3 Boulevard St
Milton

Ultra Safe Pest Management Inc

239 Boston St.
Topsfield

United Remodeling

PO Box 35466
Brighton

US Home Improvement

27 Hamilton Rd
Peabody

V. Robert Gagosian

115 Washington St
Wellesley Hills

V.W.Quality Coating LLC

95 Pleasant st
Mansfield

Value Dry

494 Franklin St
Framingham

Van Millwork

27 South Maple Street
Bellingham

Verzino Construction, Inc.

36A Crescent Street
West Newton

Viper HVAC

Boston

W. Bowen Remodeling Inc.

32 Rosemont Ave
Waltham

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

We Do That LLC

71 Grovers Avenue
Winthrop

We Show Up

336 Cornell St
Roslindale

WELLINGTON ROSSI CONSTRUCTION SYSTEMS

9 BOBOLINK ST
West Roxbury

Willard Co

1201 East St
Dedham

WINDO THERM

PO Box 405

Xtend Painting

27 Locust St
Medford

Your Home Exterior Solutions

7 Gloria Dr
Mansfield

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