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Hardware Stores to Avoid

146

Top Rated Hardware Stores

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Over 1,138 reviews for
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A
"I didn't know would send out a contractor to install stuff. I did have to pay extra but it was worth it. I really liked that they picked" up the door at the store and installed it the next day. It was just great.

-REGINA P.

F
"Their installer was extremely unreliable. He didn't show up. It was supposed to take 3-4 months and it took 6-8 and never was completed. They ended up giving" me money back instead of finishing my job as I requested. The installer was not qualified to do the work and they ended up returning about half of the cost. It was a very frustrating experience. They damaged things during installation which I had to pay to have fixed. If it weren't for the store manager getting my money refunded, I'd have to grade professionalism as an 'F'.

-BARBARA D.

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Local Articles in Boston

Fall home pumpkin gourd bucket outdoors autumn display house

Schedule any indoor painting you need done. Professional painters aren’t as busy in September, and the weather is usually ideal for leaving windows open for ventilation.

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Architects & Building Design, Billiard Table Repair, Billiard Table Sales, Builders - Homes, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Closets, Entertainment/Parties, Epoxy Flooring, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Interior Design & Decorating, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Stereo & Home Theater Systems, TV Sales, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite

Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Auto Sales, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Rentals - Cars

Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

Garage doors come in many styles to fit your house's individual needs.
Garage Doors, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Organization - Home & Garage

An investment in a garage door can range from a few hundred dollars for a new opener, to a few thousand dollars for a custom-designed door.

Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Boston

F

Rating
I purchased a dishwasher and had install. The installer damaged counter requiring a carpenter to come out and repair. The dishwasher was not installed properly as it was put atop of some tiles, it has now shifted and caused water to spill from dishwasher damaging floor. The company is refusing to do anything about it when all ...More that had to be done is install correctly from the beginning. I will never purchase anything there again. Their solution was to buy a new dishwasher.
- Clinton W.
A

Rating
This deal was GREAT! PLEASE do this again! I received my gift card a few weeks after the deal and used it right away to put the money towards my never ending projects.
- Bill C.

Hardware Stores in Boston

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A 2 Z Tech Services

81 John Street
Newton

A C HARDWARE

1562 TREMONT ST
Boston

A Cut Above

Wakefield

A&B Lumber Co., LLC

129 Sheep Davis Road

Alcantara Contractor

61 Tainter St
Medford

Allied Building Products

480 Wildwood Avenue
Woburn

Anthony's Hardwood Floors

85 Marshall St
Revere

ATLAS TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

1871 CENTRE ST
West Roxbury

Aurora Lighting LLC

19 Verona Street

Back Bay Shutter Co Inc

169 Merrimac St
Woburn

Bath & Company

3850 Mystic Valley Pkwy
Medford

BEACON TRUE VALUE HOME CTR

216 CAMBRIDGE ST
Boston

Bellingham Lumber

1210 Pulaski Boulevard
Bellingham

Ben Franklin Stores

89 Trapelo Rd
Belmont

Best Tile - Dedham

25 McNeil Way
Dedham

BLACKER & SHEPARD CO

11 GERARD ST
Boston

Boston Building Resources

100 Terrace St
Boston

BOSTON HARDWARE CO INC

16 FLEET ST
Boston

Boston On Site Sales

1271A Washington St
East Weymouth

BOSTON RE STORE

10 HARVARD ST
Boston

BOSTON SAND & GRAVEL COMPANY

100 N WASHINGTON ST
Boston

Bradco Supply

8 Draper Street
Woburn

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

Central Mass Home Improvement

Hammond Hill Rd
Charlton

Charles Street Supply Co

54 Charles St.
Boston

Chelsea Concrete Cutting

320 Broadway
Chelsea

CLASSICA OF NEW ENGLAND

109 SARATOGA ST
Boston

CLASSICA SUPREME PRODUCTS

307 LEXINGTON ST
Boston

Compressor World, LLC

32 Riverside Dr
Pembroke

COSTCO WHOLESALE

2 MYSTIC VIEW RD
Everett

D B & S Lumber & Home Improvement

78 Accord Park Dr
Norwell

Danvers Concrete Cutting

496 Maple Street
Danvers

DAY SQUARE BUILDERS SUPPLY INC

419 Bremen St
Boston

DB&S Lumber & Home Improvement Centers

3870 Washington St
Roslindale

DEVON LUMBER CO

167 DEVON ST
Boston

DML Carpentry

23 Henshaw Street
Brighton

Dracut Concrete Cutting

54 Broadway Road
Dracut

Dumont Landscape Construction

302 Union Ave
Framingham

E R BUTLER & CO

38 CHARLES ST
Boston

EAGLE KITCHEN SUPPLY INC

163B Old Colony Ave
Boston

EASTERN CABINET DISTRIBUTORS

53 MAGAZINE ST
Boston

ECONOMY TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

219 MASSACHUSETTS AVE
Boston

Eddy's Flooring America

3 James Street
Worcester

Emerald Isle Construction

106 Lake Drive
Plymouth

EMPYREAN INTERNATIONAL LLC

101 Arch St Fl 9
Boston

Equipment 4 Rent

41 Ledin Dr.
Avon

Estrela Home Improvement

30 Baker Rd
Everett

FAMILY HARDWARE

1106 BLUE HILL AVE
Boston

Five Star Discount Roofing

22 Hudson St
Halifax

Flagg & Sons Construction

419 Main Street
Bradford

FOWARD LOOK

1 S MARKET ST
Boston

Franklin Lumber Co Inc

129 Dean Ave
Franklin

GERRITY LUMBER INC

77 FRANKLIN ST
Boston

Golden Group Construction Corp.

876 Salisbury St
Holden

Guerrero Home Improvement

54 Valentine Park
Newton

HAMILTON HARDWARE OF DOR INC

259 BOWDOIN ST
Boston

Hang Time Tools

On line store

HOME DEPOT

85 MAIN ST
Tewksbury

HOME DEPOT

5 ALLSTATE RD
Boston

HOME DEPOT

177 WILLARD ST
Quincy

Home Depot Inc

1415 Providence Hwy B
Norwood

J C Overhead Door Co

100 Bouve Avenue
Brockton

J.L . Construction

209 Beaman Rd.
Princeton

JOHNNY & JOHNNIE HARDWOOD FLR

25 LEEDSVILLE ST
Boston

KENSEAL CONSTRUCTION PRODUCTS

69 SHIRLEY ST
Boston

khyco

210 PARK AVE, STE 291
Worcester

KOPPERS INC

167 MILK ST
Boston

Legare Homes, LLC

45 Pleasant St Ste 5
Newburyport

LOWE'S

306 PROVIDENCE HWY
Dedham

LOWE'S

222 SOUTH RIVER RD

Lowe'S

1000 Fall River Ave
Seekonk

Lowe's - Amherst

124 Rte 101a

Lowe's - Quincy

599 Thomas Burgin Pkwy
Quincy

M P WHITE HARDWARE CO

1 ROSSELERIN RD
Boston

MAC LEOD & MOYNIHAN WINDOW

10 WHEELER CT
Watertown

Mal Elfman's Of Waltham Inc

417 Moody St
Waltham

Malden Concrete Cutting

109 Mountain Avenue
Malden

Mast Road Grain

736 MAST RD

MBD Outdoor Power Equipment

224 Boston St
Topsfield

Medford Concrete Cutting

20 Forest Street
Medford

Miller Environmental

608 Spring Street
East Bridgewater

Natick Concrete Cutting

15 Common Street
Natick

NATIONAL LUMBER

15 NEEDHAM ST
Newton Highlands

National Lumber

112 HIGH ST

National Lumber

25 CENTRAL ST
Berlin

National Lumber

245 Oakland St
Mansfield

National Lumber

33 Mason St
Salem

National Millwork

90 Norfolk St
Mansfield

NORTHEAST ELECTRICAL DISTR

50 VON HILLERN ST
Boston

NT KITCHEN & BATH

9 CHAUNCEY
Watertown

ON THE EDGE

1 FANEUIL HALL MARKET PL
Boston

PARKS PAINT & HARDWARE CO

PO Box 990225
Boston

PLYWOOD SUPPLY INC

1380 MAIN ST
Waltham

Prestige Kitchen & Bath

150 New Boston St
Woburn

Quality Window & Door Inc

17 Cassandra Rd
East Weymouth

R & R SALES INC

64 GEORGE ST
Boston

Randolph Concrete Cutting

16 Thomas Patten Drive
Randolph

RED RIVER TRADING CO

1313 WASHINGTON ST
Boston

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

REPUBLIC PLUMBING SUPPLY CO

39 ASPINWALL AVE
Brookline

ROBERT KARPP CO INC

480 E 1ST ST
Boston

Romco Trust Inc.

15 Ring Ave

ROSENFELD CONCRETE CORP

PO Box 9187
Boston

ROYAL PRESTIGE

735 MORRISSEY BLVD
Boston

SEAPORT HARDWARE

369 CONGRESS ST
Boston

SEASONINGS

113 CHARLES ST
Boston

Shaughnessy Equipment & Party Rentals

111 Camelot Drive
Plymouth

Solutions Handyman & Tree Services inc.

600 Bedford st
Bridgewater

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Stanley Steemer

531 Pond St
Braintree

Terrene of New England

275D Centre St
Newton

the Bath Showcase

58R Pulaski Street
Peabody

The Bath Showcase

25 Commerce Way
North Andover

The Bath Showcase

290 2nd Avenue
Waltham

The Cabinetry

190 Old Derby St
Hingham

TOOLS GROUP

75 Federal St Ste 920
Boston

Top Notch Transitional Services

3 Boulevard St
Milton

United Remodeling

PO Box 35466
Brighton

Van Millwork

27 South Maple Street
Bellingham

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

W MS TRADING

1 S MARKET ST
Boston

Wallpaper City Inc

732 South St
Roslindale

Wayfair LLC

4 Copley Pl Ste 700
Boston

WESTWOOD CABINETRY

262 Providence Hwy
Westwood

Westwood Concrete Cutting

697 High Street
Westwood

Winthrop Emergency Plumbing

89 Veterans Rd
Quincy

Zen Windows Boston LLC

15 New England Executive Park
Burlington

ZOLOTAS KITCHEN & BATH

515 Lowell St
Peabody

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