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A
"We have a 1962 Brick Colonial with basically no insulation, gas bills have been outrageous. We found
on Angie's List, gave them a call," the gentleman did a drive by without us being there, quoted us a price and exactly what that would entail, I told him we would give him a call back and make an appointment, which we did, I made one for a Monday after lunch, he told me he couldn't give me an exact time they would call as soon as they were finished with previous job. They called right after 12pm and said they would be there by 1pm they were 10 min. early, they came to the door with their gear own, hose at the door ready to work. Very well mannered, professional and they were done within 20-30min, cleaned up after themselves and left. Awesome! I hightly recommend and would definitely use them again, if we found ourselves in need.

-Angelia W.

A
"They arrived punctually, performed the service completely to my satisfaction. Just a note, this is the second time I have employed them (first time for blown in"
). My experience of their workin both instances has been that they are thorough, careful, respectful, punctual, and responsive to my needs.

-Martha B.

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Local Articles in Birmingham

Avoid Ice Dams With Proper Attic Insulation

An ice dam can cause serious problems to your roof without proper insulation.

By properly insulating your attic you can keep warm air from escaping and save money on your energy bills. (Photo courtesy of Vinay S. of North Brunswick, New Jersey)
Insulation

Hot air rises … but good insulation can keep your energy costs from doing the same thing.

Better air quality, quieter living spaces, comfort and better health are all reasons to reconsider your insulation choices. (Photo courtesy of Angie's List member Roseanne J. of Seattle)
Insulation

Not just for new construction, learn how foam insulation can be placed inside existing walls to make your home more comfortable.

While traditional fiberglass insulation is affordable and efficient, injection foam insulation can offer even more benefits. (Photo by Summer Galyan)
Insulation

Insulation isn't sexy, but it can keep you cool at night.

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Contractors say homeowners with this trait are the most satisfied with home improvement projects.

Angie's Answers

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If you go the Better Business Bureau website you can see that the company has only had two complaints in the last 18 months and that they have both been resolved.  The company has an A+ rating.  This is not something you can buy.

 

There are genuine reviews on many 3rd party online review sites including AngiesList and the Better Business Bureau.  Simply do a Google search for "Smart Energy Today Reviews".

 

Sol Blanket Insulation acts as a radiant barrier, insulation and a vapor barrier.  It is not intended to replace traditional insulation but in fact compliments it and adds to it's ability to keep cool/hot air (depending on the season) in the home when the envelope of the home is properly sealed.  

 

Every attic is different and there are many other components that must be considered.  You mentioned an attic fan as well.  The heat that is radiated away from the ceiling by the Sol-Blanket Insulation is pushed out of the attic with an attic fan.  The US Department of Energy states that radiant barriers do work and suggest they be installed by professionals.

 

As with any product by any company if the product is not installed properly and other factors (attic fan, caulking and sealing, etc...) are not addressed then it will not be as effective.

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A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.

?

Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

?
Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
?

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake

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Insulation reviews in Birmingham

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Rating
top
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
came out last week to look at the job and give me a price. he was prompt, courteous and professional.he gave me a recommendation of what needed to be done and gave me a fair price for the job. the men showedup at 8:00am as scheduled. they took just over an hour to do the job. they cleaned up after the job was completed.everything was completed professionally and as promised. they have been in business since 1949, and do things the right way.
- brett S.
F

Rating
We hired this company to install R38 cellulose insulation and provide overall insulation for our attic space. The workers arrived on time and finished the work within a few hours. They were friendly and polite and did their job reasonably well. However, after they left, we checked the work and noticed that they did not install the correct amount of insulation. R38 is 10-11 inches of loose insulation. The measurements showed only 8 inches of insulation which qualifies as R30. We contacted the company and told them of the problem. They checked their records and agreed that they did not install the correct amount. They admitted that there must have been a mistake or miscommunication with the installers and promised to send the workers to finish the job. The initial job was performed on 8/12/2009 and we have called back repeatedly each month to get a status for when the job will be finished. Each time, they give us excuses and empty promises to finish the job. As of today's date 2/11/2010, it will have been 5 months since they performed the initial attic insulation and have yet to finish the job. They promised to come a week ago to finish, yet they never called back to setup an appointment. We have contacted a family attorney in hopes that this can be resolved soon.
- Andrea L.
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Rating
Not only is
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
in residential estimates/sales helpful, knowledgeable, and professional, his ethics are beyond reproach. Their prices are not the lowest, but you will never have a problem with Standard H&A. I give them 5-stars for customer satisfaction.
- Marty M.
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Rating
House had several hot spots and cold spots. Had system totally inspected from top to bottom. He closed several dampers and rerouted air from the main
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
line. Suggested that we add insulation in attic and add an attic fan. He was confident we could improve the cooling situation with just these
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
fixes rather than major work.
- Thomas M.
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Rating
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
showed up to make the estimate, surveyed the attic and gave me an estimate for R-30. I called back to schedule the installation and asked to bump that up to R-38. (It was less than $100 more, so just do it.) The service guys showed up promptly on time, laid down plastic sheeting to protect the carpet from the blow tube and got to it. Less than an hour later, it was all done, and they were gone. Everyone was very courteous and professional.
- Duane P.
A

Rating
Got the name from a neighbor, who is himself a high-end flooring contractor who'd used these people to insulate his reconstructed house. They've been in business since 1949.
Birmingham Insulation Contractors Provider Name Locked
, the salesman, has been with them for many years. Clearly knew what he was talking about, no pressure. At the time of the service, the people doing the job were exceptionally careful to avoid damage to the house. Came when they said they would, did what they said they'd do, and the result was as expected. Price was fair...not the lowest, not the highest. Have recommended to my wife's employer...would unquestionably use them again were there ever need.
- Josie R.
A

Rating
Very nice, friendly, and focused on doing the job right. They arrived on time and got right to work. They ran a hose from the truck into the house which kept the house free of debris. What little mess was made they cleaned up before they left. Overall project time from start to finish was about an hour. I'm very pleased with their service and would definitely hire them again.
- Brian B.
A

Rating
If there was anything I wanted done differently they were happy to do it for me. They stuck to their price that was estimated. They came when they said they would. So courteous and cleaned up well after themselves. I have had them back so many times so I believe the price was between $5000 to $10,000. They've done so much work for me over the past year.
- DEBORAH L.

Insulation Contractors in Birmingham

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A & A Construction &Roofing

5608 ave k
Birmingham

Alabama Accent and Remodeling

1718 21st Ave
Calera

Alabama Energy Pros

9326 Tingle Cutoff Road
Dora

ALL PRO INSULATION

609 LORNA SQ
Birmingham

All Trades Inc.

5885 snowville brent rd
Dora

Alltrade Remodel and Maintenance

1325 Falcon Drive
Birmingham

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

American HomeCrafter Inc.

4249 4th Ave S Apt D1
Birmingham

ANDY OnCall Birmingham

3 Belcher Dr.
Pelham

Attic Insulation Company Inc

4340 Powell Ave S
Birmingham

Authentic Restoration

3510 Vann Rd
Birmingham

BIRMINGHAM DRYWALL INC

3629 River Ridge Rd
Vestavia

Birmingham Income Properties

5330 Stadium Trace Parkway Suite 100
Hoover

Blair Remodeling

2674 Valleydale Rd
Birmingham

Bob Whitley Decorating Inc

2719 19th Pl S
Birmingham

Brown Heating & Cooling

400 Brooklane Dr
Hueytown

C & C INSULATION INC

2081 JETT TOWN RD
Mulga

C & F Drywall Inc.

P.O. Box 332
Helena

CARY INSULATION

4501 1ST AVE N
Birmingham

Case Design/Remodeling

4220 Cahaba Heights Court
Birmingham

Complete Home Repair

PO Box 83
Cropwell

Construction & Management Solutions, LLC

115 Walter Davis Dr Ste B
Birmingham

Cool Breeze

1689 Savannah Park
Birmingham

DGA Roofing - Southern Restoration

106 Grove Hill Dr
Alabaster

DGA Roofing Inc

14350 Mundy Dr

Durante Home Exteriors

2512 Commerce Sq W.
Birmingham

Eco Three

1500 1st Avenue
Birmingham

EES Energy Consulting

5821 W. Sam Houston Parkway N #400

Empire Construction of LA, LLC

2969 Pelham Pkwy
Pelham

Gale Insulation & Specialties

3112 Morgan Rd
Bessemer

Grayson Construction

1401 Montgomery Hwy
Birmingham

JMS Heating & Cooling

18589 US Highway 31
Cullman

Lowes in Fultondale

1335 Walker Chapel Rd
Fultondale

Matt's Roofing and Gutters, Inc.

92 Werz Industrial Blvd

METRO CONTRACTORS INC

2455 1ST AVE S
Irondale

MID SOUTH SIDING & WINDOWS

529 CRESTWAY CIRCLE
Birmingham

Norrell Service Experts

2524 Commerce Sq W
Irondale

North Alabama Builders

311 CR 1387
Vinemont

PCE Pest & Property

PO Box 383201
Birmingham

PENTOIR INC

404 BUSINESS CENTER DRIVE
Birmingham

Pinnacle Contracting LLC

100 Hillsedge South
Birmingham

Precision Heating & Air

6632 Warrior River Rd
Bessemer

PRO CONSTRUCTION LLC

1104 DUNNAVANT VALLEY RD
Birmingham

Pro Energy Consultants

1512 Bellview Cir
Birmingham

Ralph Bidwell ( Handyman )

1301 Meadow Ln
Mulga

S & S INSULATION

7811 GEORGIA RD
Birmingham

Sentry Heating, Air, Plumbing & Generators

2490 Rocky Ridge Rd
Birmingham

Service Experts Heating & Air Conditioning

2524 Commerce Square W
Irondale

Sharp Remodeling Birmingham

4691 Trussville Clay Road

SHOOK & FLETCHER INSULATION CO

401 CARNOUSTIE
Birmingham

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Southern Renovations & Construction, LLC

5235 Pinson Valley Parkway
Pinson

Southern Strong Roofing

2100 Southbridge Pkwy
Birmingham

Standard Heating & Air Conditioning

520 8th Street South
Birmingham

STAR INSULATION

2385 PAWNEE VILLAGE RD
Birmingham

StoneCrest Home Builders

1747 Russet Woods Lane
Birmingham

StoneMark Construction

4581 Deer Creek Trail
Bessemer

SUNBELT INSULATION CO

4625 VALLEYDALE RD
Birmingham

Supreme Service Company

4022 University Ave

Terminix - Trussville

7415 Gadsden Hwy
Trussville

Tint Pro

3229 veterans cir
Trussville

TLK Construction

2139 Cheshire Dr
Birmingham

TQ HVAC CONTRACTOR LLC

1678 Montgomery Hwy
Birmingham

Trinity Contractors, Inc.

561 Simmons Dr.
Trussville

Triple B Construction

755 County Road 15
Heflin

Ultimate Gutter Guard Birmingham

3564 Lorna Ridge Dr.
Hoover

UNIVERSAL LIMITED INC

932 ALTON PKWY
Birmingham

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

Weather Guard Lifetime Metal Roofing

1861 Alton Rd
Birmingham

Yellowhammer Roofing, Inc. - Birmingham

112 West Tarrant Drive
Gardendale

Zen Windows Of Alabama

46615 U.S. HWY 280
Sylacauga

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