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Over 189 reviews for
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A
"Took off two existing layers of roofing. Removed old vents and closed holes. installed new boots on pipes. Installed Oakridge shingles in" the color Driftwood. Installed ridge vents on all ridges. Removed gutters and installed new gutters with larger down spouts. Installed a gutter cover by name Gutter Shelter. Nuts and nut shells and leaves roll off, water rolls over the into the gutter and out the down spout. I used to have to open my down spouts with a toilet auger. When the gutters were being installed, some rot was found. The roofers returned and repaired the site. There was a $100 cost for materials. I was sick in the hospital the whole time and didn't see any of the activity. The leaf fall and the rains since then have proven the integrity of the job.

-EMMETT H.

C
"Lowe's sub-contractor for installation is where the problems were. The sub-contractors arrived on time and worked a full-day on install on a Friday morning." Worker committed to returning Saturday morning to finish the job and never showed nor called. Worker did not return again till Tuesday morning to finish and did a horrible job of clean-up. Left carpet shreds downstairs and upstairs where he was cutting. Left dresser he moved by the front door. Owner offered to come back again but was ready to move on and clean up on my own. Lowe's was gracious to remove the installation fee from the project for all of the problems. I would recommend Lowe's again, not the sub-contractor.

-JEFF I.

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Local Articles in Birmingham

Fall home pumpkin gourd bucket outdoors autumn display house

Schedule any indoor painting you need done. Professional painters aren’t as busy in September, and the weather is usually ideal for leaving windows open for ventilation.

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Architects & Building Design, Billiard Table Repair, Billiard Table Sales, Builders - Homes, Carpentry - Unfinished, Carpentry - Woodworking, Closets, Entertainment/Parties, Epoxy Flooring, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Interior Design & Decorating, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Stereo & Home Theater Systems, TV Sales, TV Service - Cable, TV Service - Satellite

Consider your home's layout to decide if an existing space can be converted into a game room or if you'll need to add on.

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Auto Sales, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Lawn Mower & Power Tool Repair, Rentals - Cars

Car-sharing programs can reduce greenhouse gas emissions by taking more cars off the road and reducing traffic congestion.

Garage doors come in many styles to fit your house's individual needs.
Garage Doors, Handymen, Hardware & Home Improvement Stores, Organization - Home & Garage

An investment in a garage door can range from a few hundred dollars for a new opener, to a few thousand dollars for a custom-designed door.

Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 

 

Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450

 

We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 

 

Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

?
For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Hardware Store reviews in Birmingham

D

Rating
The door took 3 weeks to come in and then another week before the installer could come put it in. Upon arrival to install it, Installer discovered a bent piece of hardware and was forced to postpone install until replacement was ordered/arrived. It took another 2 weeks for the piece to arrive and then another week for the installer to come out again ...More to install it. I was extremely disappointed that a reputable and well established company like Lowe's would bumble a storm door installation, taking almost 2 months from order to final install. Lowe's management apologized profusely and gave me a gift card for my troubles, but I would've preferred to have had the door in on time.
- SCOTT O.
F

Rating
It has been almost a year and the cabinets are still not right. The sub-contractor they use puts everything in with out leveling first. He has had to come back to re-do almost everything he has done. Sometimes more than once just to make the doors flush. Our microwave is still not vented and the same cabinet guy is trying to work us in. It has been ...More so messed up I don't even care anymore. I never thought it would be this long or that they would only send out the same cabinet guy, who doesn't seem to care if it's done right only fast.
- LEEANNA M.
A

Rating
I don't know what was wrong but the tech was very knowledgeable and fixed the problem. He called before coming out and showed up on time. I could trust him in the house. He explained what was done and answered all my questions. I was very pleased to have my dishwasher working again.
- Lori W.
A

Rating
I have been purchasing appliances from for over 30 years and as I get older, their services just keeps getting better and better. They have always shown great respect for me and other family members. They did a good job of explaining services that may be needed later on down the road. They were very honest.
- Rudolph J.
D

Rating
Customer service was abysmal and not helpful at all. The store manager did call and offer me a discount, but by then it was too little too late. The people who work there are just punching a time clock and not really trying to help customers.
- David F.

Hardware Stores in Birmingham

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

84 LUMBER CO

490 25TH ST S
Birmingham

84 LUMBER CO

1780 CARSON RD N
Birmingham

A-1 FOODMART NUMBER THREE

6820 1ST AVE N
Birmingham

ALABAMA BUILDING SUPPLY

3636 7TH AVE N
Birmingham

ALL AMERICAN CONCRETE

2821 29TH AVE N
Birmingham

ALLEN PLUMBING SUPPLIES

1000 PINSON VALLEY PKWY
Birmingham

ALPHA LUMBER INC

2601 REPUBLIC BLVD
Birmingham

ARC Home Improvements

1011 Merion Drive
Calera

AUTHENTIC BRASS INC

3234 CAHABA HEIGHTS RD
Birmingham

BETHEA TOOL & EQUIPMENT CO

1100 CORPORATE PKWY
Birmingham

BLUE LINX

1523 INDUSTRIAL BLVD
Birmingham

Bluff Park Hardware

597 Shades Crest Rd
Birmingham

Brickhouse Security

980 Avenue of the Americas

Bryant Mechanical Inc.

1837 Collier Dr
Birmingham

BUILDING MATERIALS WHOLESALE

1 15TH ST W
Birmingham

CAHABA HEIGHTS HARDWARE STORE

3209 CAHABA HEIGHTS RD
Birmingham

CAHABA LAWN & GARDEN POWER

3940 CYPRESS DR
Birmingham

CASH & CARRY BUILDING SUPPLY

575 37TH ST N
Birmingham

CHALKVILLE ACE HARDWARE

5715 CHALKVILLE RD
Birmingham

Contoured Design

2430 County Road 1422
Cullman

Control Temp Inc

1715 6th Ave N
Birmingham

COOK STORE OF MOUNTAIN BROOK

2841 CAHABA RD
Birmingham

Door Exchange

2637 Pelham Pkwy.
Pelham

Electrician

1612 2nd Ave SW
Cullman

EMACK SLATE CO

9 OFFICE PARK CIR
Birmingham

EZ Aztec Enterprises

3418 Bessemer Super Hwy
Brighton

F And S Equipment and Supplies Inc

3221 2nd Ave S
Birmingham

Ferguson Bath & Kitchen Gallery

2800 2nd Ave S
Birmingham

FIVE POINTS HARDWARE

20TH ST & 10TH AVE
Birmingham

FIVE POINTS PAINT & HARDWARE

1000 20TH ST S
Birmingham

GLS SUPPLY

3200 RICHARD ARRINGTON JR BLVD
Birmingham

Gordon Home & Lawn Care Services

321 Golden Crest Cir
Birmingham

Greenworks Construction

298 Brandy Ln
Harpersville

Greguol Coatings & Remodeling, LLC

2665 Laburnum Drive
Birmingham

Hang Time Tools

On line store

HARBOR FREIGHT TOOLS USA INC

136 GREEN SPRINGS HWY
Birmingham

HOME DEPOT

3670 GALLERIA CIR
Birmingham

Home Depot

4995 Hwy 280
Birmingham

HOME DEPOT

7001 CRESTWOOD BLVD
Birmingham

Home Solution Services

417 Valley Ave
Birmingham

HUFFSTUTLER'S HARDWARE

2732 CENTRAL AVE
Birmingham

ICEMAN Double-Grinder

199 7th Avenue
Pleasant Grove

INDIA SPRINGS LUMBER CO

411 CAHABA RIVER EST
Birmingham

INTERIOR/EXTERIOR BUILDING

210 FINLEY AVE W
Birmingham

Iron Mountain Electric LLC

3737 Messer Airport Hwy
Birmingham

JGA BEACON

2520 2ND ST W
Birmingham

JLF Construction Remodeling, Inc.

1700 Fairfax Ave
Bessemer

Julian Hardware Co

5334 Birmingport Rd
Mulga

K & B TOOLS

1125 BETHEL AVE
Birmingham

KENNY PIPE & SUPPLY

2500 2ND AVE S
Birmingham

KIRKLAND'S HOME

5287 HIGHWAY 280 S
Birmingham

KIRKLAND'S HOME

2000 RIVERCHASE GALLERIA 246
Birmingham

KIRKPATRICK CONCRETE INC

2909 3rd Ave N
Birmingham

L & M TRAILERS

2631 CRESTWOOD BLVD
Birmingham

LAFARGE BUILDING MATERIALS

3545 47 AVE N
Birmingham

LAFARGE BUILDING MATERIALS INC

4400 LEWISBURG RD
Birmingham

LAFARGE BUILDING MATERIALS INC

3435 ERWIN RD
Birmingham

LAFARGE CORP

851 WENONAH RD
Birmingham

LAFARGE READY MIX

801 WENONAH RD
Birmingham

LAWNCO LAWN MOWERS-5 PTS WEST

2508 BESSEMER RD
Birmingham

LAWRENCE WOOD WORKS

1550 HAMBY AVE
Birmingham

LEWIS LONG HARDWARE

430 9TH ST N
Birmingham

Lighting Concepts Inc

570 Simmons Dr
Trussville

LITTLE HARDWARE

2117 Cahaba Rd
Mountain Brk

LOWE'S

2100 VALLEYDALE RD
Birmingham

Lowe's Of Graysville

1100 Bankhead Hwy SW
Graysville

LOWES

1885 EDWARDS LAKE RD
Birmingham

LOWES

375 STATE FARM PKWY
Birmingham

LOWES

5291 HIWY 280 S
Birmingham

Lowes in Fultondale

1335 Walker Chapel Rd
Fultondale

MACK'S ROOFING & SUPPLY

913 VALLEY RD
Birmingham

MADWOOD LUMBER CO

1043 EAGLE NEST CIR
Birmingham

Maldonado Remodeling

3643 Log Trail Dr
Birmingham

Mary Carter Paint Store

104 4th Street SE
Cullman

MID SOUTH LUMBER

2 15TH ST W
Birmingham

MILLER SPECIALITY WOOD PROD

213 25TH ST N
Birmingham

Mitchell's Home Improvements

402 25th Street Ensley
Birmingham

MoMic Construction

1409 Hueytown Rd
Bessemer

MT LAUREL HARDWARE & NURSERY

7 MT LAUREL AVE
Birmingham

PAVING STONE CO

300 VESTAVIA PKWY
Birmingham

POLY DESIGN SHUTTERS

516 JEFFERSON BLVD
Birmingham

PRO PARTS ACE HARDWARE

402 BY WILLIAMS SR DR
Birmingham

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

RICHARDSON HARDWARE CO

1840 PINSON ST
Birmingham

ROEBUCK LUMBER CO

2750 RUFFNER RD
Birmingham

SERVICE CONSTRUCTION SUPL INC

524 35th St N
Birmingham

SHELBY CONCRETE

3993 LORNA RD
Birmingham

SHELBY CONCRETE

2101 PINSON VALLEY PKWY
Birmingham

SHERMAN INDUSTRIES INC

1130 2ND AVE S
Birmingham

SMITH & HAWKEN

201 SUMMIT BLVD
Birmingham

SMOKE & FIRE PLACE

2344 Tyler Rd
Birmingham

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

SOUTHEAST TRACTOR & LAWN CTR

2917 RUFFNER RD
Birmingham

SPARKS ACE HARDWARE CO

2520 31ST AVE N
Birmingham

SQUARE D

2700 CORPORATE DR
Birmingham

STAY AWAY

7077 N HIGHFIELD DR
Birmingham

STONE INTERIORS LLC

217 COUNTRY CLUB PARK
Birmingham

SUPREME READY MIX INC

5524 EASTCLIFF INDUSTRIAL LOOP
Birmingham

Tim's Plumbing LLC

Dolly Ridge Dr
Vestavia

TRIGREEN EQUIPMENT

420 FINLEY BLVD
Birmingham

VECTOR MARKETING CORP

1572 MONTGOMERY HWY
Birmingham

Vent and Cover

306-7337 137 st

WINNELSON CO

631 28TH ST N
Birmingham

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