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Over 1,652 reviews for
Austin Modular And Mobile Home Remodelers from people just like you.

"My house burned to the slab 18 months ago. I hired a GC who hired this plumber. It seemed to go very well at first. was personable and met" our timelines. We found out approximately 2 months after moving in that our tankless water heater was not installed properly. It stopped working and refused to come back out and fix it- he stated he had not been paid in full by the GC, he was still owed 6,800 and he doesnt work for free, warranties do not apply until he is paid in full. I paid the GC in full per our agreement,sadly- this is not the only subcontractor that did not get paid by this GC. All others have returned in good faith to complete thier work but . I contacted the water heater manufacturer Renai, and am filing a claim through them as well as the plumber board. Renia says they teach every plumber how to install thier units and this one is WRONG. The water heater was installed directly under a dryer vent so it sucks in lint and was not vented properly. I have been without hot water more with hot water for 4 months. When the house was almost finished, handed me his business card and said to contact him if we needed anything. When I didn almost 2 months later he refused to return.

-Gail T.

"Friendly workers, cleans up after themselves. They also have been helpful working around our crazy work schedules. If it's outside work they start on it even if we are not there yet.


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Drywall, Fencing, Fencing & Driveway Gates, Painting - Exterior, Painting - Interior, Plumbing, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing

Houston roofing complaint | Contractor claims leaks are coming from plumbing, not roof.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Roofing
Homeowner claims property manager hired to oversee roofing work, drywall repair and electrical upgrades allowed contractors to do unsatisfactory and incomplete work.
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Florists, Handymen, Landscaping, Landscaping & Lighting, Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home

Consider the building materials you use to create outdoor trellises or overhangs, and be sure to spruce up the space with a bit of green.

Angie's List
Remodeling - Basements, Remodeling - General, Remodeling - Kitchen & Bathroom, Remodeling - Modular & Mobile Home, Remodeling - Sunrooms & Patio Enclosures

Whether you’re planning a kitchen and bathroom remodel, or just want to add some extra living space to your home, do your homework before you hire. Separating the good contractors from the bad isn’t as difficult as it might seem.

Angie's Answers

Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!

No.  Heck no.  Here's a good example.  We very recently needed to find someone to install about 500 square feet of exotic wood flooring (we already have the materials).  We contacted about 12-15 top-rated Angieslist contractors.  Out of the few who did get back to us, we got 5 quotes, 2 of them were literally just over the phone.  They "didn't feel it would be necessary to even see the space". 


Here were the bids: 

$4000 (sight unseen), $2800 (sight unseen), $2500, $1500, $1450


We didn't "share our budget for this".  Why would we?  We asked them to bid the job.  That's it.  All of them should be well-qualified and they are all highly rated.  We were interested in how THEY value their time/resources - for an apples/apples job. 


Do you still think that you should tell them about your budget?  Your choice.  From my standpoint it isn't their business.  I'm asking them to bid on a project.  Invariably I'll get some very high bids, medium bids and a few more reasonable ones - ALL from "highly rated contractors". 

For this type of job, you need plans and specs from an Architectural/Engineering firm before thinking about contractors - and to get a building permit. Ben's method would work and done incrementally could cost well over $100,000 plus as he says, but this not really the most economic way to approach this big a job. A House Mover or Foundation Underpinning specialty company can usually slide your house onto a whole new foundation, or jack it up on steel beams and hold it there while a basement is dug underneath it, without any intermediate piers. The jacking/move cost would probably be on the order of $30-40,000, and a new basement probably about $40-50,000 - rough ballpark, though I have been involved in some 1000-1500SF single story jobs that went for under $70,000 total. I have been involved in a fair number of these type jobs - and the way the numbers come out, if there is room on the property to move the house, it is almost always nearly as cheap or cheaper to build an equivalent square footage (basement plus ground level) addition rather than add a basement under the house, and that way your new footage is half above ground so worth more on resale, plus you do not lose use of the house for a month or two. Second cheapest is usually sliding house to a new foundation, if property is large enough to do this - though house is totally cut off from utilities for a week to three. Most expensive, and usually only done in tight city environments or with full 2 story or higher houses, is adding the foundation in place, though your utility interruptions should be on the order of hours at a time rather than days or weeks. Talk to an architect - I think you will quickly lean towards the addition option rather than adding a basement - it is just too expensive to deepen foundations in most cases, plus you WILL get cracking in the house and possible water and sewer pipe problems in a move/underpinning job, which is not the case with an addition. This become more likely the case since you want to add 8 feet off the back of the home anyway - so why not just enlarge the addition and do it all that way - MUCH simpler, and MUCH less disruption of your life, and you get much higher resale return on your investment.

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.


You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!

Mobile Home Remodeling reviews in Austin


The overall experience working with Bill and his crew on this project could not have been better. I will use him in the future for similar projects and would recommend him to anyone for projects, large and small, as he takes pride in doing things right.
- Richard J.

Modular And Mobile Home Remodelers in Austin

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

A-Z Remodel

5707 Breezewood Dr

Aardvark Home & Yard

4301 W Wm Cannon Dr Ste B150297


PO BOX 140493

AC Cornerstone Bld LLC

150 Arabian Ave N
Liberty Hill

Aero Mobile Home Park

101 Hergotz Ln

Air Pro, Inc

PO BOX 17576

All About Design, Inc.

8600 Hwy 71 W.

All Home Construction

16713 Rocky Ridge Rd

Ambrose Construction

13355 N Hwy 183

Armatino Contracting

2204 Amy Lynn Ln
Cedar Park

Atkinson Construction

114 Orange Tree Ln.

ATX Dream Team, LLC

1502 W 5th

ATX Handyman

744 West William Cannon Dr

ATX Plumbing Company

9730 Anderson Village Drive

ATX Remodeling Pros

11411 Research Blvd

Austin Homes by Jones

5616 Toscana Ave

Austin's Home Renovation

14512 menifee st

Austins Best G C

Austin Tx

Best Austin Handyman & Remodeling

1108 kramer lane

Blue Ridge Construction

12907 Lamplight Village Ave

Bradford Green Construction

10001 S. 1st

C&K Roofing

11521 Silmarillion Tr.

Capital City Maintenance & Waterproofing

401 East Applegate Dr

Carter Bruce LLC

6407 Hopkins DR, Unit A

CR 7 Flooring

7720 Arbor Ridge Ct

Darrell McGuire Remodeling

1306 Greenlawn Blvd
Round Rock

Discerning Carpentry

3111 Parker Lane

DreamScape Design

8760-A Research Blvd

Erickson Homes & Additions

9901 Brodie Ln ste 160 PMB 225

Evco Remodeling

5555 North lamar k117

Falkin Services Unlimited

2727 Lyons Rd.

First Choice Framing

705 Garden Path
Round Rock

Full Circle Remodeling

7312 E. Ben White #12





Handyman Dan

1005 Hyde Park Dr
Round Rock


3913 Todd Ln

Home Improvement and Repair

PO Box 17301

Infinite Exteriors Construction Company LLC

7301 RR 620 North Suite 155-162

J.A. Zamora Construction

3301 Winding Shore Lane

JMC Construction

2106 Oak Motte Lane

Jose Vergara Construction

6205 Turtle Dove Dr

JP Kessie

1040 W Nelson Ave
Aransas Pass

Jr's Construction Company

2319 Greenfield Pkwy

K&K home improvement llc

381 palomino rd

KENV, Inc. Ken Vaughn, General Contractor

10912 Preston Trails Dr

Kraft Werks

109 Highland Horizon


Del Valle

M2 Renovation

4303 S. First st.

Marsdel Remodeling

3907 Aero Drive

Matt's Remodeling

2637 Alcott Ln

Mel.Bri L.L.C.

9305 Granada Hills Dr.

MEND Services

1209 W 49th St

Mosley Design Build

2911 E 16th St

Newcom Contracting

1700 Harmon Hills
Dripping Springs

Ortiz Handyman Services

2313 Rockridge Dr.

Pegasus General Contractors, Inc.

Post Office Box 29042


225 S. Commons Ford Road

Reclaimed Space

443 S. Bastrop Hwy

Red Head Rehabs

1541 N Laurel Avenue

Remodel Me

1009 W Slaughter lane

Remodeling Boutique

3402 Lakeside Dr

Renaissance Contracting, LLC

13492 Research Blvd.


3302 S. 5th St.

Reyes & Son Construction LLC

300 E Garrett Run

RLK Contracting

3413 Amalfi Cove

Rockin' D Services

164 Wood Farm Rd

Texas Discount Siding& Windows

1708 Canterbury St

Texas Green Builders, Inc.

11300 Mayo St

Texas Pro Painters and Remodelers

1633 Royal Crest Drive

Timber Castle Construction, LLC.

7339 Pusch Ridge Loop

Trusted Restore

12407 N MOPAC

Tyko Inc

10601 Manchaca Rd

v&l remo experts

1310 harrison lane

Wells Branch Remodeling, LLC

3121 Wavecrest Blvd.

Will does it ALL

4508 Elwood rd

Xstream ATX

7703 Brodie Ln

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