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"It went very well. , the owner, and his assistant were punctual and professional. They had said the job would take" approximately 2 days and possibly a third. They were here from 9-5 for two days and were able to complete the job. kept me apprised of the progress and made a few additional suggestions to consider later on. They were great to have around and I would highly recommend them if you feel your energy costs are too high.

-Jennifer D.

"As described by ! The work was completed with minimal drywall tear out. And though does not offer drywall cut out" and repair one of his men did. In and out in two days! was the only provider who I thought knew what he was talking about. Thanks !

-anne E.

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Local Articles in Asheville

Icicles hanging from roof

How to Prevent Ice Dams From Forming on Your Roof

Do you have icicles on your eaves and gutters, or ice collecting on your roof? Proper attic insulation can help keep frozen precipitation from building up.

spray foam insulation

High heating and cooling bills could mean your home lacks adequate insulation. Be sure to check the amount in your attic and crawlspace.

Attic inspection

Roofing experts say many attics are insufficiently ventilated which can damage your roof and require expensive repairs.

foundation installation

Insulating the outside of your foundation can help lower energy bills and keep your house warmer in winter.

Radiant barrier in attic

HVAC systems work more efficiently with the addition of a reflective barrier as part of your attic insulation.

Angie's Answers


Google and read about it. Some people swear by it, though their comments sound suspiciously like they were all written by the same person. Some call it a rip off - expecially people paying $6000-8000 for what would normally be a $1,000 range job.

I would not call it an outright fraud as they are providing a product that has some potential merit in the right application, but from a technical standpoint it sounds suspicious. They claim a 1/4 mat with doiuble sided foil facing is R-16 insulation. This at least is deceptive - they appear to be saying its radiant heat reflective properties give the equivalent of R-16 insulation, because there is NO WAY 1/4" foam is going to yield R-16 in an ASTM test for insulation, which is a thermal conductivity test. Would be lucky to get R-2 or so as an insulator, so this is basically a radiant barrier. Competing products from national brandname manufacturers list R value of 3.8-4.2 for one inch mats, so the equivalent for this 1/4" mat would be expected to be in the R1 range.

Properly installed, with ventilation on BOTH sides, it can be slightly effective in reducing radiant heat loss from the house, and more effective in reflecting heat in the attic from coming down into the house. However, from a thermodynamic and vapor control standpoint, they are trouble unless their integration into the house envelope is designed VERY carefully. Short explanation:

1) for keeping heat in the house, if they are installed above the attic floor insulation they can slightly limit air loss through the ceiling, and reflect radiant heat back down, resulting in warmer insulation, hence a warmer ceiling - but not as marked an improvement as added insulation would give.

2) for keeping attic heat from getting into the ceiling, they do reflect back a good portion of the radiant heat coming from the roof sheathing. This reduces the attic floor insulation surface temperature, so can reduce air conditioning cost. it does increase teh temperature in the attic, which can be very bad for support timbers and the roof sheathing.

3) the worst thing about how this type of foil radiant barrier is used is that, unless it has free air space on both sides, it acts as a vapor barrier. In the typicall application as a blanket over attic floor insulation, it traps any moisture coming up from the house, and can cause mildew and rot, especially in climates where the outdoor temperature gets quite cold.

4) the attic fans are generally a last resort measure - the normal house does much better, at no energy cost, using ridge vents with adequate eave openings to provide ventilation and cooling in the attic.

5) their effectiveness in winter heat diminshes rapidly with time - tests of attic radiant barriers show they lose about half their effectvieness within 5 years, because even a light dust coating greatly reduces their ability to reflect radiant heat, and greatly increases the absorption of heat from the hot air above them.

6) pay attention to cost - from what I see, their installed cost is many times the cost of normal insualtion or radiant barrier placement.

I would say, in summary, buyer beware, and I would be inherently leery of a product being sold the same way timeshares and "secret" moneymaking schemes are.


A couple of comments about what Jim said:

1) Regarding type of insulation, in cold winter environments: Cellulose and fiberglass are actually about comparable in R value when installed - blown in cellulose runs from 3.2-3.8 R value, fiberglass batt 2.9-4.3 R value depending on manufacturer and whether hig-density or low density, high-efficiency or standard, according to official Department of Energy publications. Measured values in attic test cases, in areas with a true winter, after 10 years showed a decrease from 3.4 (in the test case) down to 2.1 for cellulose, and 3.5 to 3.3 for fiberglass batt, due to packing or matting. In an attic environment, there WILL be condensation or frost on the insulation at some point during the year (assuming an area with true winters) and in highly insulated houses commonly for a substantial time period each winter. Fiberglass packs down slightly from that weight but mostly rebounds, cellulose packs down and mats and does not substantially recover, so over the years cellulose loses 1/3 to close to 1/2 its insulation value, fiberglass about 10%.

2) a note on radiation barriers attached to the bottom of the rafters - there are a lot of installers and homeowners making two major mistakes with this product that can cause major trouble: First, be sure to terminate it short of the eave openings. I have seen cases where it was carried all the way out to the fascia board, thereby blocking all airflow on the underside of the roof. Even carrying it all the way to the eaves along the bottom of the rafters will block off ventilation to the main attic area. You have to leave the air space between the rafters open to full airflow from the soffit/eave area ot the ridge vent. Second, do NOT run it continuous from eave to eave across the full width of the attic - leave a gap about a foot wide under the ridge vents so warm and moist air in the attic can vent through the ridge vent. Closing the ridge vent area off with the radiant barrier effectively puts a vapor barrier around the main attic area, causing retention of the moisture which WILL accumulate there, promoting mold.


Obviously this is not a timely response to the initial question. However, for those who may be reading these answers at a later time, a couple of added thoughts:

1) the radiant barrier being discussed is basically heavy-duty metal foil or metallized surface on a plastic sheet, intended to reflect RADIATED heat (infrared radiation - think heat light, or heat you can feel at a distance radiated from a fireplace), the same way a mirror reflects light. Radiated heat is how a standard oven broils and how steam and hot water baseboard heat predominately work.

2) you generally should do NOT place a radiant barrier over the insulation that lies between and over the joists in a normal attic, especially in a region where the attic temperature can frequently reach condensation temperature (below about 45-50 degrees) - it may reflect back some of the house heat that is coming up from the house, but by destroying most of the temperature gradient from the house to the attic air destroys much of the driving force that moves moisture to the attic air and subsequent venting. Between that greater heat and the fact the barrier is also a moisture barrier, that makes a perfect condition for mold and rot in your insulation and attic wood, and has become quite an issue in energy upgraded homes because of retrofits that cut off airflow outside the insulation, but do not cut off the moisture source leaking thorough from the house. The proper and ONLY place for a vapor barrier in a normal attic insulation system is on the pressurized and normal warm, humid side of the insulation zone - directly above the ceiling drywall in the top floor, fastened to the UNDERSIDE of the ceiling joists or trusses, NOT anywhere above that. Perforated barriers are supposed to reduce this tendency, but the perforation area percentage is so small that typically they still act as a vapor varrier, just not a totally effective one.

3) radiant barriers reflect radiated heat ewith up to 99% efficiency but have basically zero resistance to CONDUCTION (body to body heat transfer at points of contact - think heat transfer from your warm hand to a frozen cold drink can, or hot pavement heat transfer to the bottom of your feet) - so there needs to be an air gap between the radiant barrier and the hot item passing the heat to it, otherwise the heat will just pass through it by conduction. Therefore, applying it directly to the sheathing (above or below) or manufacturing it directly on the surface of the sheathing defeats its purpose, even though this is commonly done.

4) there is a lot of discussion, particularly in the professional design community, about attic radiant heat barrier effectiveness and problems. Because they are being installed on the bottom of the sheathing or underside of roof joists, they act as a heat trap for the energy being conducted through the roof which would normally radiate into the attic air or be transferred by CONVECTION (fluid flow heat transfer) to the attic air, and be vented through roof vents, ridge vents, gable vents, etc. By trapping that heat, they are causing the underside of the shingles and particularly the felt and sheathing to get a lot hotter than they otherside would, essentially changing it from a system where the shingle top surface might reach 120-180 F and the inside surface of the sheathing about 80-140F in the summer, to making the entire roof system equal to the outside surface temperature. This causes more rapid shingle deterioration and cracking, and makes the felt or plastic moisture barrier under the shingles brittle and subject to failure.

Also, any moisture above the radiant barrier (from roof leaks or humid air coming into the area) is prevented from evaporating by the attic airflow which would normally remove it, so it starts acting like a steamer. I have seen both wood and metal lofts and attics become a major mold farm in months because of this effect, and a couple of roofs which started sagging due to rotted sheathing within 2 years of reroofing with tightly adhered radiant barrier. Some radiant barriers are vapor-permeable to reduce the moisture issue, many are not, but few actually are effective in letting moisture freely escape.

Having seen these products in use, and having analyzed and specified building products for use from the Middle East to the Arctic for decades, and having a Masters in Arctic Engineering (a degree predominately in energy conservation and heat flow), my personal opinion is that these radiant barriers will be banned by code within 10-15 years for unheated (so-called "cold" roofs) roofs, because they just do not use the principles of thermodynamics correctly. For more info on this issue Google the following search phrase  - moisture trapping by radiant attic barriers       and read the government (not the manufacturer) literature on the issue.

5) Unfortunately, the right way to handle this issue is to put the radiant surface on the OUTSIDE of the house - by using reflective materials on the roofing material. This is already done with flat roofs, house trailers, and industrial structures by spraying with alumiunum paint, and a few brands offer reflective aggregate shingles that are slightly more reflective and radiant than normal shingles. People obviously do not like this reflective surface from an aesthetic standpoint, though with solar cells coming into more general use this may soon be more widely adopted. The idea should be to keep the solar energy from penetrating into the building envelope at all, not try to re-reflect it away after it has penetrated throguh the roof system.

The sprayed-in foam has a couple of issues you need to be aware of:

6) it needs to be the low-pressure expanding type mixed for use around window frames, as fully expanding foam can bow joists or trusses and pop drywall ceilings free as it expands, and non-expanding foam actually shrinks as it cures, leaving gaps for air and heat flow alongside the ceiling joists.

7) being closed-cell it is essentially impervious to moisture, so the vapor barrier on the house side has to be EXCELLENT (incuding sealingof all penetrations), or it will trap household moisture escaping into the attic and promote mold and rot in the ceiling drywall and joists.

8) it tends to bleed chemical fumes into the house for a long period of time (can be noticeable for years), which may be objectionable to some people from an odor or environmental standpoint, and especially should be considered if any residents have severe allergy issues or respiratory problems.

9) I emphatically recommend AGAINST use of sprayed-in foam between ceiling joists or truss members in any area that can have cold attic air that could cause moisture condensation in the insulation, though this is probably not a significant problem where you live, assuming your Dallas is the city in Texas. For essentially year-around air-conditioned homes in hot climates, the problem can actually be condensation of attic air moisture on and in the colder ceiling surface insulation and on cold attic runs of air conditioned air, so attic ventilation becomes a critical issue to remove the moisture before it condenses.

In summary, having seen an awful lot of attic moisture and thermal problems, my personal recommendation would be to ensure excellent sealing of the house from the attic, use normal UNFACED fiberglass insulation, and instead of a radiant barrier ensure adequate full-attic ventilation. If you decide to got with a radiant barrier, then I would recommend a perforated one, sloping up towards the sides a foot or two and stopping a foot or so clear at the sides so moist air under it can escape to the roof joist spaces and be vented from the attic. I have seen this done several times with a fine nylon net strung above the insulation in the attic, supporting the barrier, resulting in something very similar to the double-roof system used in bedouin tents, where airflow between the two layers keep the hot air away from the living space.

Steve made a good point.  Also, while it isn't required to remove the old insulation you can check the ductwork, wiring, etc. with the old stuff removed,  You can also spray foam around all openings and holes in wall top plates to better seal your home as Steve was pointing out.  My concern is the potential for mold spores you mentioned in your question.  If you suspect there are any get a good company in to remove the old and clean the attic.  Another concern is asbestos.  Your home is old enough you could have it in there and that's worse than mold if released into the air.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services

A moisture barrier has to be on the warm side ie towards the heated side.  Most people would not install a moisture barrier in your situation.  (They also sell a paint that you can use on your interior ceiling? as a moisture barrier).  Rather most homeowners would hire an insulation contractor to blow a cap over the existing insulation bringing it up to your areas reccomended levels,,Your power company can tell you the level, I would guess R 40.  What you use is up to your wallet, the best is a spray foam that can be applied to the ceiling or over the whole shebang.  Being a bit of a miser I would trot on down to my local big box store and buy a truckload of cellulose and get a free blower for I and a friend to self insulte.  Big box= Menards, Lowes etc.  Cellulose= ground up paper treated with boron for insect control and fireproofing.  It has a high R value and will stop moving air loss from the home. Before you cap current mostly emply attic is ideal time to take sealant to any openings in the attic floor,  like pocket doors, canister lights electircal wires and close off the air leaks from inside.  If foaming skip this.  Hot air rises so you save yourself a ton air sealing the home.

An attic radiant barrier is also a possiblity see my blog for nifty results on it.

Jim Casper Old Energy Conservation Guru

ps moving existing insulation use a plastic rake


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Insulation reviews in Asheville


I was set up with a date for the work and the sales man showed up and did an inspection. No workers and no offer to return and deliver my $300 dollars worth of insulation I payed for. Just an inspection with an offer to do more work.
He was very nice and informative but that is not what I payed to have done. The inspection I could have gotten ...More for free just calling another insulation company.
I would like my money back as I did not get what I payed for. Insulation. I did not pay for an inspection.
- Mathew S.

Excellent work. Very good at communicating and showing up. They knocked out the job in several hours. They were not the cheapest quote I got but they find quality work and so I was glad to pay slightly more. You will not likely going to find a better insulator. I was able to continue my project right on schedule. Thanks
- Carson D.

The job was explained in detail of what and why these services would be the best way to fix my problem which was a house that couldn't be cooled down or warmed up enough for comfort even if you ran the heat or A/C all day and night. It took about a day and a half to complete the job with two men and the owner working continuously on the job to ...More completion.
They were very polite and pleasant to have in one's home.
The lights had to be ordered, and it was supposed to be about a month until they were to arrive, but they received them in just a few days. One of the men came back quickly to replace the new light bulbs. He was prompt and very helpful, and gave me time to figure out which light bulbs to replace since I didn't replace every light bulb in the house.
The price is partially based on a residence of about 5,000 sq. ft.
I would recommend them to anyone who wants a more energy efficient home.
- Sharon S.

Did not do work, but pricing was competitive with everyone else. Invoice got lost in junk e-mail, so did not think I ever received invoice, but I found it a month or so after job was completed again. If\when I have another job will call and make sure Invoice doesn't get lost in junk e-mail!
- David B.

The work was done with high standards of competency at all levels. I dealt with Mr. who oversaw the work and was always availabe to address any questions and concerns I had. He applied for all permits and submitted all paperwork for warrenties, Energy utility rebate and Federal tax credit. I plan to ...More use and Air for all my maintenance on this system.
- Barbara K.

initially impressed me with his eye for detail during our initial consultation.
In spite of having several competing projects, he worked in our high priority projects because of the potential water damage that delayed repair could cause to our home.
and his team performed the majority of ...More their work during the week, while I was away at work. As the work progressed, would call with status updates. Each member of the team that I had the pleasure of meeting was gracious to me and respectful of our home.
The work looks great, and is exactly what we wanted.
One of our neighbors was so impressed with the quality of their work and their professionalism that they immediately hired ' team to for roof repair on their home.
- Rachel B.

Excellent. and his workmen were prompt, efficient, kept in touch. 's attention to detail is quite good, price came in as estimated. We would recommend to our friends, as their workmanship was above par.
- Anne R.

This is by far the best investment I have made in my home.
is an amazing inspector. Not only is he certified in many fields, but he has practical experience that makes all the difference. One of the reasons why I picked is because he only does inspections. He does not do actual repairs. This is ...More wonderful because I know he is free of any bias or interest in discovering expensive issues.
started out by asking us what our concerns and issues were. We initially wanted him to inspect for mold that was causing health problems. That was just one of the many things did for us. did a complete top to bottom inspection of the house. He looked for problems with energy efficiency, health issues, comfort issues, etc. He not only identified problems, but sat down and explained the best and least expensive way to address each issue on our own whenever possible. He told us what we need to do and offered to help guide us on any projects we might have to undertake in order to improve the quality of our house. He also prepared a full report with pictures so we could identify each issue.
After the inspection has continued to provide insight and advice on how to tackle each issue that was found. Most of the repairs would've cost us a lot of money if we had outside contractors do it, but told us how to easily do these things ourselves. He has checked up on us several times and has provided great assistance in getting some of the items we needed, but were unsure how to procure.
has been nothing but helpful and his service far exceeds the modest price we were charged. I will be sure to have him inspect any new home we may ever have or even to assist with any major remodeling of the house. I will be recommending him to all of my friends. If I could offer one piece of advice for any homeowner, potential buyer, or even someone looking to have work done on their house it would be to first call and have him do an inspection. You would be amazed at the things he would be able to tell you that other inspectors would not even care about. For the modest price he charges, you would be a fool to spend full dollar before having him look your home over. Remember he does not do any actual repairs or work with referrals so you know you are getting an unbiased inspection. The only bias he has is to help you live in the best environment possible.
- Joseph H.

Insulation Contractors in Asheville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!



A-Team Energy

131 Garren Creek Rd

American Construction Enterprise LLC

841 B Highway 27 W

American Home Shield

889 Ridge Lake Blvd

Asheville Signature Construction

537 Beaverdam Rd

B & M General Construction

Acorn Dr.

Baker Roofing Co

517 Mercury St

Best Roofing Company

44 Buck Shoals Rd

BioTek Environmental Inc

534 St Andrews Rd

Blevins Construction, Inc

319 Roaring Spout Ln

Blue Ridge Construction

PO Box 2565


51 Gudger Road

Build Anything LLC

Rose St

Bullman Heating & Air Inc

10 Red Roof Ln

Carolina Construction

141 Chickadee Hollow Lane

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle



Complete Construction

6 Amber Knoll Court


53 Wellington St.

Cook's Painting

83 Fair Oaks Rd.

Demos Builders

56 Pearson Drive

Dominion Home Improvements

406 Jack St

Ecosavvy Energy

103 N Bear Creek Road

EnergySmith Home Performance

135 Sweeten Creek Rd

Evans Residential Electrical & Construction

168 Hungry River Rd
Flat Rock

Falcone Crawl Space & Structural Repair

1883 Scott Futrell Dr

Favorable Changes

10 Grove St

Gary MacPeek Skilled Hands

179 Marlborough Rd

Gib Gibson The Handyman Who Guarantees

385 Burnside Trl



Hendersonville Custom Painting & Remodeling

211 Windsor Ct..

Hendersonville Insulating and Restoration

3379 Greenville Hwy
Flat Rock

High Country Construction

442 Dillingham Cir



HomeGrown Landscapes

804 Lancaster st.

K. B . Silver Construction


Knox Carpentry and Remodeling

36 Mars Hill Commons Ln Apt 201
Mars Hill

Kola Exteriors - Charlotte

701 East Blvd

Lighthouse Construction

17 Lunar Way

Mad Rabbit Renovations

15 Alton Way

Marger's Quality Services LLC

16 Charter Glen

MB HAYNES Corporation

187 Deaverview Rd

Moore Home Services

114 Foster Hill

morales services


Mueller Home Improvements

12 North St.

Nemec Construction, LLC

2130 HWY 70

New Dream Renovations

10 Freno Dr


183 Logan ave

OMNI Builders

Flat Rock

Paul's Installation & Repair LLC

POBox 6283

Pisgah Insulation and Fireplace of NC Inc

5120 Old Haywood Rd
Mills River

Precision Woodworks

Black Mountain

Pro Pest Inc

101 Hooper Lane
Mills River

R-Pro Select

PO Box 710


24 Davida Dr

Rector's Building and Repairs

15 Silverling Dr

Right Building

7 Lockley Ave



Roof Roof

1120 W Butler Rd

Sav-R-Energy, LLC

PO Box 18501

Sealing Agents Waterproofing

PO Box 2370
Indian Trail

Service Today

2001 Asheville Hwy

Shipman's Handyman Svc

1195 Bee Tree Rd

Smart Energy Solutions

302 Court of Elm

Soundrite-Acoustics, Inc.

209 S. Stephanie Street

Standard Heating & A/C Inc

700 Valdese Ave


396 New Leicester Hwy

Terry-Lynn LLC

1596 Jennings Road

The Handyman Authority

104 Shelly Dr

The Local Handymen

28 Hilltop Circle N.

Thomas Pitts

23 Brookside Cir

Triangle Contractors Inc

946 Riverside Dr

USI Allied Insulation

100 Fairview Rd


12637 S 265 W Suite 100


PO Box 405

Wize Home Direct

5008 Hickory Blvd

wonson construction

200 Marion Ave

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