Asheville  Lumber Stores

in Asheville , NC

129
Lumber Stores are
in Asheville

18
Lumber Stores in Asheville
are top rated

A
Rated by
Barbara G.
"
came out and gave me an estimate. Very Professional, ordered and came in about 14 days later because they were custom size. A crew of three came in and installed" windows on a Sunday. Very professional job.
D
Rated by
Cindi P.
"The black topsoil that was advertised on the bags looked like gray cement dust inside. It was barely good enough to fill holes in my yard, much less for anything else. Several friends had the same experience.
B
Rated by
Lowell S.
"Bought
washing machine which works great except for the hassle of no being able to open the lid except when filling the machine.. However, the delivery truck" driver backed up and off the driveway and broke a 6 ft tree without mentioning it. I found the remains tossed into the bushes. UPS and FexEx trucks never have had a problem backing up. I suggest you supervise closely the delivery of any appliance from
.

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Angie's Answers

?
Todd said it best.

An itemized list / cost breakdown, more often than not is used against the contractor when it is shared with other builders who will then beat it.

Good contractors use good people, and good people cost more.  Just the cost of having the appropriate insurance / bond can be the difference between winning a job or losing it ot a 'lower bid'.

It is the rule of three; there is Good, Cheap and Fast.  You can have any two:  Good and Cheap, won't be Fast; Good and Fast, won't be Cheap;  Cheap and Fast, won't be Good!

When comparing bids, it isn't the cheapest or the 'nicest' person you should select.   You should understand why there is a large price difference (it shows there are gaps in your design program or what you have asked for specifically, which means there may be arguments later).  If most of the bids are in line, and one is way high or way low,  you want to know why before dismissing or selecting them.

A price-only decision almost always costs more in the long run. 

Good luck!
?
There are two sides to this and everyone will have an opinion.  I can tell you that from a contractor's point of view a customer that is up front with me is much easier to work with and the entire experience is much more pleasurable to all parties involved.  If you treat your contractor like there's always something to hide from him expect the same in return.  A good contractor is going to take your budget into consideration and make recommendations based on that budget.  When possible, he's going to estimate the work 10-20% under your target to leave room for the unexpected.  With any remodeling work, there's always the possibility and likelihood that there will be surprises that will have to be added such as mold damage, improper existing framing, etc.  The cushion allows room for the project cost to grow without going over your budget.  If no problems are found and you decide to spend that money some of the final finishes can be upgraded or other projects added.

Another good arguement for disclosing your budget to your contractor is to save you both some time and aggrevation.  You may have a $10,000 budget and want $30,000 worth of work.  Wouldn't you like to know your desires aren't possible before you get your hopes up or spend money on design fees for plans you can't afford?  Likewise, the contractor doesn't want to put in the hours of calculating the estimate only to find out it was all for nothing or that he has to refigure for a much lower cost after pricing what you specified.

Be fair and honest with your contractor if you expect the same respect in return.  You'll get a lot more out of it with the right contractor.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
San Antonio, TX
?

Herlonginc's answer stated that it is not the contractor's job to pay for materials and labor to do the job. I say baloney - a reputable, established contractor has the funds (or a business operations line of credit) to "carry" the job between interim or partial payments, each of which should be keyed to completion of distinct easily measured mileposts in the job, and for a homeowner I would say should be in not more than 20% increments for jobs exceeding a week or so. For shorter jobs, then an initial payment, 50% completion, and completion would be normal. His cost of carry funds is part of his cost of doing business, and is figured as part of his overhead.Bear in mind when he is buying materials and paying labor, his materials he typically pays for on a 10-30 day invoice, and his labor typically a week or two after they work, so he is not really "fronting" that much money if you are giving him weekly or biweekly interim payments, on a typical residential job.

If he does not have the funds to buy materials (excepting possibly deposit on special-order or luxury items, which still typically are 10-30 day invoiceable to him) and hire personnel then he is a fly-by-night operation, and he should not be bidding that size job. You should never (other than MAYBE an earnest deposit of not more than the LESSER of 10% or $5000) let the payments get ahead of the approved/inspected work progress - typically payment should be 10-20% BEHIND the progress, with at least 10% retained at the effective end of work until final inspections and completion of the final "punchlist".

That promotes rapid continuation of the work, discourages the all-too common nightmare of contractors taking on more work than they can handle so they leave your job for weeks or months to go work on someone else's job (frequently to start that someone else's new job so he can get the job), and does not leave you out a tremendous amount of cash if he does not finish and you have to hire another contractor to finish the job. Remember, if you have to hire a new contractor to finish the job, he will charge you a lot more than the original bid to finish someone else's unfinished mess.

This may seem cynical, but having started in the construction business about 50 years ago and seeing the shenanigans that a lot of contractors pull you cannot be too safe. You have to remember contractors are like any other people - I would say maybe 10% are outright crooks, another 25% or so will pull a fast one or overcharge if the opportunity presents itself, maybe 30% will do the work but not any better than they are forced to, about 25% are good conscientious reputable workmen, and the last 10% or so are really spectacular - conscientious, fair, and efficient craftsmen. This top 35% are the only ones you should have bidding in the first place. Therefore, only get bids from long-term reputable firms (so you shake out the marginal short-timers with less experience and also generally less ability to finish the job on budget and schedule), only those that have good RECENT references, and preferably with excellent word-of-mouth recommendation from people you know and trust. That way, you are starting right off with the cream of the crop, so hopefully whichever one bids low should be a good choice.

NEVER start with bids, then check the references of the low bidder - why even consider a vendor or contractor who you do not have faith in from the start ? Get references and short-list you possibles BEFORE you ask for bids.

Low bids - that is another matter - commonly the low bidder is NOT who you want, especially if he is significantly lower than several others, which might mean he is desperate for work, made a math error, or did not correctly figure the entire scope of work. You want a reasonable bid with someone you connect with and trust - that is worth a lot more in the success of the job than the absolute lowest bid.

 

?
You should always get a set of print and pull a permit when remodeling you home. It is a good thing that you want to be involved in your project. I do have some reservation about the electrical work. There is a lot at risk with doing the work yourself. If the house burns down you will never get the insurance money, unless your a certified electrician. Now of days 90% of home fires are blamed on electrical problems because the insurance company is to lazy and cheap to investigate the true problem. Also find out if the city you live in will allow you to perform the work. Make sure you coordinate your subs to have the proper time and space to perform their job. You don't want people working on top of each other. If you order all you materials make sure everything is there before you start your project. Have your subs check for proper and full items to be installed. Make sure every sub has a working set of prints. Make sure you have all the demo done before your subs show up to work. Schedule your plumber first, do any final framing or electrical work while you wait for inspection. Electrical inspection next followed by framing, insulation, and wallboard. All subs must get a final inspection on the job before you (the GC) can call in your final inspection.
?
The answer depends on your contract.  If you do not have a written contract, you need to begin documenting everything.  Begin by using a calendar and marking the days the contractor started, worked, you had to speak to him/her about the work, etc.

Next photograph the work you feel is sub-par.  If work has been corrected, photograph it now to have a record of its condition.  If you have any "original" or "before work began" pictures get those together, too.

If you do have written contract, see what it says about warranties, complaints, failure to finish / comply, etc.  Holding the money may end up with the contractor taking YOU to court for the funds - you cannot just hold the money.  You need to document in writing what is wrong, what you expect to happen (be specific) and when it should happen by.  A good contract will explain if and how money can be held, how the arbitration or complaint is filed, etc.

You should also invite another contractor to come in and bid the work to finish the job.  They can confirm the quality of the work and give you a price to fix / finish the job.  This gives you justification for holding the funds and an option to finish the job.

If the contractor is not willing to fix the work or listen to direction, do not allow them back in the house.  A judge will ask you why you let them continue to do work if you found it unacceptable.  Take back the key or access to the building - you can also attempt holding any materials or tools as collateral if the cost of repair is higher than the amount owed.  Again, document what you are holding, its estimated value (google or ebay search), etc.

Finally, in writing you should fire the contractor and state the exact reason(s).  Document everything; if it is done in person after they leave make notes of what was said, agreed upon and disputed.  If you are satisfied that what you have paid is fair compensation for the work done, make sure this is noted in the letter firing the contractor.  If you feel money is owed, you will need to file a small claim in your local court.  Include the documentation you made, notes, letters, etc. when you file your claim so the judge will have a copy of everything.  Don't forget to contact the BBB.

Do not wait for the court date; go ahead and hire the other contractor and have the work completed.  Bring this invoice to court with you (file it before the court date if you can).  Bring photos of the finished work (again, file it with the court before the date if possible).  You must show what good quality work looks like vs the poor quality work.

Otherwise it will be a your word against the contractor and you will most likely lose, (the contract is a promise to pay for work) or even if you "win" you will most likely split the difference between the argued amount of money.  Also be prepared for the contractor to file a small court claim against you.  Same process as above, except now you will respond to the summons with a copy of your stuff to defend your reason for holding funds instead of asking for money back.

Good luck!
?
Yes, you can ask for these items.  Second Century Homes answered your question well - most contractors do not do a break down to prevent haggling on items that shouldn't be part of the discussion.  People sometimes forget to allow the builder to make money. . .  Builders also want the entire job, not the nickle and dime menu selected items - you may find the contractor says "Thanks, but no thanks" if you ask them to remove portions of the work.

The real question is why do you need this break down?  If you are thinking you will do the demo yourself to save money, you can certainly tell your contractor this - but I would be willing to bet once you buy or rent the tools, haul the trash to the correct disposal dump (many trash dumps will not take home building materials anymore) and clean up / prep for the new work - you will have spent more and delayed the project more than just letting the professionals do it. Plus, do not be surprised when they still have to do additional demo work that you didn't know would be needed to complete the job, etc.

Also keep in mind that cutting portions of the work out of the job to do later is not a money saving move.  You will find that the cost for the individual items go up when done seperately - the contractor has to come back multiple times, has to set the equipment back up, possibly pull seperate permits, schedule the work crew / subs, etc.

If you are asking for the break down to compare bids, then again, tell the contractors what numbers you want to see.  If you are doing it because you feel the total price is too high, have a discussion with your contractor; they may be able to suggest ways to save costs, etc.  Ultimately if you know the materail costs, and have the total figure, you can do a pretty good estimate of the percentage for labor and profit in the job.

It is your project and your contract, so you can ask for anything you want on the quote - just be clear on why you want the information so the contractor can work with you.

Good luck!

All Lumber Stores in Asheville , NC

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

4X4 COUNTRY & CUB CADET

1039 BREVARD RD
Asheville

ACCENTS ON MAIN STREET

120 W MAIN ST
Brevard

ACE HARDWARE

3389 SWEETEN CREEK RD
Arden

ACE HARDWARE

915 GREENVILLE HWY
Hendersonville

All About Dryer Vents

214 Sycamore Ln

Amazon.com

PO Box 81226

APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN HOMES

846 CARL ELLER RD
Mars Hill

APPALACHIAN TRUSS

75 SENSATIONAL DR
Burnsville

Ascent Stairlifts

747 Sheridan Blvd #6D

ATH SVC GROUP

22 LONDON RD
Asheville

AUTOMATED TOOL & MACHINE INC

4599 HENDERSONVILLE HWY
Pisgah Forest

B & L DISTRIBUTING CO INC

190 Continuum Dr
Fletcher

Barefoot Brothers Service Company

P.O. Box 18811
Asheville

BILL'S CREEK HARDWARE & SUPPLY

1618 BILLS CREEK RD
Lake Lure

BLACK MOUNTAIN CONCRETE PMPNG

2493 US 70 HWY
Swannanoa

BOWMAN HARDWARE CO

98 N MAIN ST
Marshall

BUILDER'S EXPRESS

68 MONTICELLO RD
Weaverville

BUILDER'S EXPRESS RENTAL

400 CARL ELLER RD
Mars Hill

BUILDERS FIRST SOURCE

1450 ECUSTA RD
Pisgah Forest

BUILDERS FIRST SOURCE

433 4TH AVE E
Hendersonville

BUSTLE'S HARDWARE & DOORS INC

175 WEAVERVILLE RD
Asheville

BY-PASS POWER EQUIPMENT INC

1318 SULPHUR SPRINGS RD
Waynesville

CAROLINA COLORTONES

2 INDUSTRIAL DR
Arden

CAROLINA READY MIX

608 OLD US HIGHWAY 70
Swannanoa

CASON BUILDERS SUPPLY

1405 ECUSTA RD
Pisgah Forest

CHEFCARGO

PO Box 1450
Asheville

CITIZENS HARDWARE

86 Hawtree Ct
Weaverville

CLINE BRADLEY ACE HARDWARE

1570 S MAIN ST
Waynesville

COAL FEED & LUMBER CO

25 BRIDGE ST
Marshall

COLD MOUNTAIN HARDWARE

16 MAIN ST
Canton

COMMON HOUSEFLY

104 W STATE ST
Black Mountain

CONTRACTOR YARD-HENDERSONVILLE

2324 ASHEVILLE HWY
Hendersonville

COUNTRY HOMES LLC

346 ROY EDWARDS LN
Mars Hill

COX INTERIORS INC

34 Redmond Dr Apt D
Fletcher

CREATIVE QUALITY HOMES

305 WOODFIELD DR
Asheville

D & D SAWMILL SVC

1722 ORCHARD RD
Flat Rock

D T RAMSEY LUMBER CO

14245 US HIGHWAY 25/70
Marshall

DIYHomeCenter.com

2701 Larsen Rd

E.L. Foust Company Inc

754 N Industrial Dr

FA Management Enterprises Inc

1000 Brevard Rd
Asheville

Ferguson Counter

470 New Hendersonville Hwy
Pisgah Forest

FLETCHER MODULAR HOME CTR

5077 HENDERSONVILLE RD
Fletcher

FOWLER LUMBER CO

211 LIBERTY CHURCH RD
Waynesville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

GBS LUMBER DO IT CTR

507 DUNCAN HILL RD
Hendersonville

GENTRY HARDWARE

124 BRIDGE ST
Hot Springs

GIBBS TRUE VALUE HARDWARE

66 E MAIN ST
Old Fort

GREENE'S BUILDING SUPPLY

216 OLD CHIMNEY ROCK RD
Hendersonville

HARRIS ACE HARDWARE

87 W MAIN ST
Brevard

HAYWOOD ACE HARDWARE CO

1391 DELLWOOD RD
Waynesville

HAYWOOD BUILDERS SUPPLY CO

100 CHARLES ST
Waynesville

HERITAGE LUMBER CO INC

570 US HWY 19 W
Burnsville

HOME DEPOT

795 FAIRVIEW RD
Asheville

HOME DEPOT INC

127 ACTON CIR
Asheville

HOME DISCOUNT WAREHOUSE

860 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

HOME SPECIALTY BUILDING MTRLS

79 BRANNER AVE
Waynesville

HOME TECH

5 N MAIN ST
Waynesville

Homer TLC Inc - Hendersonville

401 Linda Vista Dr
Hendersonville

HOMES AMERICA

75 SMOKEY PARK HWY
Asheville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HORSE SHOE HARDWARE

4225 BREVARD RD
Horse Shoe

I-26 SMALL ENGINE SHOP

106 SUGARLOAF RD
Hendersonville

INNOVA HOMES LLC

428 HAYWOOD RD
Asheville

INTERSTATE HARDWARE & EXPRESS

104 SUGARLOAF RD
Hendersonville

JENNINGS BUILDERS SUPPLY

780 HENDERSONVILLE RD
Asheville

JENNINGS TRUSS CO

342 MOUNTAIN INDUSTRIAL DR
Brevard

JENNINGS TRUSS MFG

342 MOUNTAIN INDUSTRIAL DR
Pisgah Forest

JOHNSON BUILDING SUPPLY

69 MCKINNEY RD
Etowah

JUST PARTS

314 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

K P STEEL

425 GREEN RD
Brevard

KING HARDWARE CO

610 N GROVE ST
Hendersonville

KITCHEN & CO

800 FAIRVIEW RD
Asheville

KNIVES 4 LESS

5960 HENDERSONVILLE HWY
Fletcher

LAUREL RIVER REALTY & RENTALS

52 GUNTER TOWN RD
Marshall

LEB MODULAR SET-UP CREW

10 AURORA VISTA DR
Asheville

LESCO JOHN DEERE LANDSCAPES

88 BUSINESS PARK CIR
Arden

LOUIS WILLIAMS & SONS INC

203 W King St
East Flat Rock

LOWE'S

89 S TUNNEL RD
Asheville

LOWE'S

19 MCKENNA RD
Arden

LOWE'S

119 ECUSTA RD
Brevard

LOWE'S

100 LINER COVE RD
Waynesville

LOWE'S

109 DUNCAN HILL RD
Hendersonville

Lowe's - Asheville

95 Smokey Park Hwy
Asheville

Lowe's Of Weaverville

24 Northridge Commons Pkwy
Weaverville

LOWES

1415 7TH AVE E
Hendersonville

M & P POWER EQUIPMENT

6930 BREVARD RD
Etowah

MADISON FARM SUPPLY INC

5208 US HIGHWAY 25/70
Marshall

MADISON HOMES-WESTERN CAROLINA

5204 US HIGHWAY 25/70
Marshall

MADISON METALS SUPPLY CO

12 CALIFORNIA CREEK RD
Mars Hill

MC GINNIS HOMES

396 AVENA RD
Black Mountain

MICRO HYDROPONICS EAST

2000 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

Mountain Brook Homes Inc

31 College Pl
Asheville

OUR COUNTRY STORE INC

PO Box 1044
Rosman

PRECISION TRUSS CO

104 CEDAR RIDGE DR
Asheville

PROPER POT

36 W MAIN ST
Brevard

PURPLE SAGE

PO Box 2452
Hendersonville

RANDALL KING KNIVES INC

2000 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

RepairClinic.com Inc

48600 Michigan Ave

ROBBIN'S LUMBER CO

224 S GROVE ST
Hendersonville

S G MECHANICAL REPAIR SVC

1031 SPARTANBURG HWY
Hendersonville

SINGLE STOP 5

6783 CRUSO RD
Canton

SMOKE'S POST

1121 W US HIGHWAY 19E
Burnsville

SORRELL'S HARDWARE & FARM SUPL

3796 JONATHAN CREEK RD
Waynesville

SORRELL'S MERCHANDISE CO INC

3796 JONATHAN CREEK RD
Waynesville

SOUTHERN COMFORT HOMES

26 E MAIN ST
Brevard

SOUTHERN CONCRETE MATERIAL INC

1325 ECUSTA RD
Pisgah Forest

SOUTHERN CONCRETE MATERIALS

24 OLLIE WEAVER RD
Weaverville

SOUTHERN HOMES

PO Box 402
Mars Hill

SOUTHLAND DISTRIBUTORS

1022 SUGARLOAF RD
Hendersonville

STONEYARD.COM

265 Foster St

SUMMIT BUILDING SUPPLY

252 POSSUM TROT RD
Burnsville

TIMBERLINE LUMBER CO-ASHVILLE

551 L A WHITE DR
Arden

TINSLEY'S SAW & MOWER SVC

25 GREEN RD
Brevard

Town Hardware & General Store

103 W State St
Black Mountain

TRACTOR SUPPLY STORE

14 MONTICELLO RD
Weaverville

Tri-State Flooring and Supply

806 Locust St
Hendersonville

TRIAD CORRUGATED METAL

111 OLD PATTON COVE RD
Swannanoa

VALLEY ACE HARDWARE

14112 Haven Ridge Ln Unit 201
Charlotte

VALLEY HARDWARE

557 Tumbling Fork Rd
Waynesville

WESTALL-CHANDLEY INC

38 GARFIELD ST
Asheville

WESTALL-CHANDLEY LUMBER CO

5 WEAVERVILLE RD
Asheville

WNC SURPLUS

195 JOHNSTON BLVD
Asheville

WRIGHT STONE WORKS

948 CHARLOTTE HWY
Fairview

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