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A
"Very friendly, punctual, and professional staff. Had them back to install bathroom fans, install a new breaker, add outlets in kitchen, and more. They honored the" price in the quote and even ended up charging me less for some things. The electricians were great. The office staff was also friendly, but a little disorganized, but it wasn't a big deal.

-Owen R.

A
"Great! Slava came and looked at what we needed and would have started the same day however it was raining and the work was outdoors so he would be tracking in mud." I appreciated his concern and we needed to purchase the fan so we decided to plan another day. I had to change the time so he came on Saturday to do the job. I would use him again and I recommend him as well!!

-Michelle C.

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Local Articles in Asheville

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Angie's Answers

?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Asheville

A

Rating
They arrived on time and called before arrival. We needed to upgrade the grounding on our house. They went above and beyond what was expected and even did some work not required. Great service and we will use them again if needed. Very professional and we are very pleased.
- Fred B.
A

Rating
After looking on Angies List for an electrician, I called and left a message at 8:11 on a Monday morning. Slava returned my call within the hour and said he could be at my home between 10 and 10:30. He arrived around 10:20, listened to my concerns, looked at the switch, explained what he could do and promptly did the work. Slava ...More is very professional, polite, patient and friendly! I will definitely use his company again and recommend it to anyone else needing an electrician.
- Peter E.
A

Rating
Once they arrived (they got lost as the office gave a slightly wrong address), they got right to work, understood what we wanted and kept checking that they were installing where and how we wanted. Electrician very knowledgeable with new helper who was learning but very nice guy. They took an hour longer than we had paid for, so there was an extra $100 ...More charge, even though they worked at a good rate. Everything was cleaned up well and looks and works great.
- Pam H.
A

Rating
Slava was able to schedule the next day after I called which was excellent. We were having trouble with our smoke detector system which is hard wired into the house. If you've ever had problems with this type of system you probably understand how maddening it can be so we were fed up! Slava was patient with me and listened through my un informed ...More explanation of the problems; resolved the issues completely and made sure that I totally understood how the system worked before leaving. This is exactly what your dad would want you to have in an electrical contractor in your first house. We also had him address an issue with a ceiling fan which did not have as much oomph as it should, the problem didn't get resolved, but now we know for sure it is the fan and not a problem in the switch and we can use our warranty to replace the fan. Slava even took the time to take apart the identical fan in the other bedroom to compare the circuits and be sure that things were lined up. Overall he was thorough and helpful, we will continue to hire him for our electrical needs.
- Amy W.
A

Rating
I had used Volt before and I was very pleased with the work. This time was not any different. The tech was on time, friendly, professional and did clean work. He did an excellent job, did everything I asked and did it within the time included in the special.
- Ron G.
A

Rating
Slava showed up soon after I called, quickly and correctly diagnosed the problem, and completed the repair in less than an hour. I couldn't be happier with his work and will call on him the next time I need electrical work done.
- Charlotte W.
A

Rating
Well as embarrassed as I am to say this, after having my cousin install a new dishwasher, we could not get it to work. He tested the line supplying power to the dishwasher and it was dead - no power. I looked on Angie's list and found Volt Electrical had a special. 2 hours - $99 for an electrician, so I got it. They contacted me right away ...More and set up an appointment. The guy came out (wish I could remember his name - heck ANY name) and walked into the kitchen flipped on a light switch over the dishwasher and bam - on came the dishwasher, he turned around and say "I fixed it" I couldn't believe it! I missed that switch the whole time. (who puts the electricity for a dishwasher on a light switch?) Anyway the guy was FABULOUS he tried to fixed something else, but he's an electrician so I told him not to worry about it, and sent him on his way. I was totally prepared to eat the 99. because it was my fault, but the lovely woman in the office called back and told me that since that was a totally waste of time that I could use another hour in the future. They were great and I will always use them no matter what the cost. HIGHLY recommend them!
- Cherie P.
A

Rating
from did electrical repairs at my home. I highly recommend these guys. They were prompt, courteous, professional, and got the job done right in a timely fashion. Their work was excellent, and their customer service was exceptional as well.
- Kathleen B.

Electricians in Asheville

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Choice Service Group

502 Stone Ridge Blvd
Asheville

A G ELECTRIC & LIGHTING SVC

282 BINGHAM RD
Asheville

A Green Electric

1160 high peak rd

A TOWNE ELECTRIC

11 Willow Branch Ln
Weaverville

A WOODBY ELECTRIC CO

PO BOX 595
Fairview

A+ HOME IMPROVEMENTS

11 SCOTTSDALE DR
Asheville

A+ Repair & Improve

127 Acton Cir
Candler

A-Team Energy

131 Garren Creek Rd
Fairview

Accurate Electrical Services

1279 South Main St
Asheville

Advanced Electric of WNC LLC

215 East Oakview Rd
Asheville

AirVent Exteriors Inc

1852 Brevard Rd
Arden

Al's Remodeling

1010 Indian Hill
Hendersonville

ALAN BENTLEY ELECTRIC

54 SHINING SUN LN
Hendersonville

Aldridge Electrical Contracting

P.O. Box 1118
Burnsville

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

All German Performance

1194 Hendersonville Rd
Asheville

All Phase Electric

422 Hutch Mountain Rd
Fletcher

ALL PROS WEST

11 CRYSTAL COUNTRY WAY
Asheville

Alliance Electrical Services

P.O. Box 1351
Hendersonville

Anders Home Repair

1514 5th Ave W
Hendersonville

ANDY'S HEATING & AIR COND

121 BILTMORE AVE
Asheville

APPLIED BUILDING CONTROLS

70 WOODFIN PL
Asheville

ARIES ELECTRIC & DATACOM

64 DALYA RD
Swannanoa

Asheville Garage Door Service Inc

277 Lynn Cove Rd
Asheville

Asheville Window & Door Inc

15 Walden Dr
Arden

AVL Electric

85 Ramsey Rd
Marshall

BARLOW ELECTRICAL SVC

46 NEW LEICESTER HWY
Asheville

Bee Ridge Electric

9 Breckenridge Dr
Fairview

BENJAMIN BUILT LLC

3 Metcalf Dr
Weaverville

Bentley Electrical Service

1055 Stagger Weed Rd
Bakersville

BLANKENSHIP MECHANICAL

81 STRADLEY MOUNTAIN RD
Asheville

Blevins Construction, Inc

319 Roaring Spout Ln
Burnsville

Blue Ridge Construction

PO Box 2565
Candler

Bolton Construction & Service of WNC, Inc.

169 Elk Mountain Rd.
Asheville

BRADLEY STEVENS

Asheville

BRINSON ELECTRIC

26 SECRETARIAT DR
Hendersonville

Brumley's Home Repair

97 Oakwood Dr
Brevard

BTS Electrical Contracting

P.O. Box 39
Weaverville

Buchanan Construction LLC

44 Buck Shoals Rd
Arden

Buckingham Electric, Inc. / Heating and Cooling

503 Sweeten Creek Industrial Park Rd.
Asheville

Built More Construction

301 S Oconeechee Ave
Black Mountain

Butler Construction Inc.

PO Box 9264
Asheville

C. H. Ervin Electric

1382 Jupiter Road
Weaverville

Canter Power Systems, LLC

2100 Fairfax Rd
Greensboro

Carolina Ductmasters

21 Business Park Circle
Arden

Carolina Electrical Technologies

10 Roselyn Way
Black Mountain

CAROLINA ENERGY SYSTEMS

125 LESTER LN
Penrose

CHARLES WOODS ELECTRIC

237 MAGNOLIA WAY
Asheville

CHM Electric LLC

Horse Shoe

Chris' Custom Carpentry

87 Crystal June Lane
Asheville

Classic Builders of Hendersonville

2535 King Rd
Pisgah Forest

Coleman Electric

P.O. Box 461
Dana

Complete Energy Systems of WNC, LLC

61 Redden Road
Hendersonville

COMTEC

1900 HENDERSONVILLE RD
Asheville

COOK ELECTRIC INC

208 GATCHELL ST
Asheville

CR1 Construction

27 Open Range Drive
Barnardsville

Crowe Electric

PO Box 1431
Candler

CROWN ELECTRIC

100 Oak Knoll Rd.
Asheville

CT Ring Electric Co.

110 Hanover St
Asheville

CTM Construction

105 Moss Dr
Burnsville

Custom Home Space

po box 1071
Asheville

D&B Repairs

579 Johnston School Rd.
Asheville

Dampier & Stephens LLC

224 Thompson St
Hendersonville

DAVID COOPER ELECTRIC

105 STONE DR
Swannanoa

Dellinger Gang Electric

653 Westside Rd
Burnsville

Dominion Home Improvements

406 Jack St
Hendersonville

Donovan Electric

480 El Miner Dr
Mars Hill

DOUG GRINDSTAFF ELECTRIC

PO BOX 38
Swannanoa

Dreamakers LLC

347 Scarlet Oaks Dr
Etowah

Dynamic Development Inc

PO Box 43
Skyland

EBP ELECTRIC

4 MERCY RIDGE RD
Asheville

Ecosavvy Energy

103 N Bear Creek Road
Asheville

Electrical Swatt

7 Brookfield Dr
Candler

ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS

144 BILTMORE AVE
Asheville

ELECTRICS OF ASHEVILLE INC

114 CHARLOTTE HWY
Asheville

Elko Electrical Inc

15 Providence Road
Asheville

EMORY ELECTRIC INC

10 HILLCREST RD
Asheville

EnergySmith Home Performance

135 Sweeten Creek Rd
Asheville

Evans Residential Electrical & Construction

168 Hungry River Rd
Flat Rock

EVERLY SYSTEMS CO

1888 CHINQUAPIN RD
Asheville

Eye On Your Home

168 Scarlett dr Fletcher
Fletcher

FAIRVIEW ELECTRIC

14 HARD ROCK LN
Fairview

FAIRVIEW ELECTRIC

616 WALTON ST
Asheville

FAN MAN

13 KIRBY RD
Asheville

Fence Scapes

206 Martin Rd
Swannanoa

Fernando the Handyman

9 Eve Dr.
Asheville

Fountain Electric Services

244 Callahan-Koon Road
Spindale

FOWLER & ASSOCIATES HOME BUILDERS INC

18 Spring Hill Drive
Arden

Full Circle Construction Inc

PO Box 2619
Hendersonville

G & M Construction

P.O. Box 6561
Hendersonville

Gary MacPeek Skilled Hands

179 Marlborough Rd
Asheville

GEN ELECT SVC INC

50 GLENDALE AVE
Asheville

General Electrical Contracting

PO Box 348
Asheville

Gib Gibson The Handyman Who Guarantees

385 Burnside Trl
Hendersonville

GRAYBAR ELECTRIC CO

124 HILLIARD AVE
Asheville

GreenWay Electric

432 Simms Fork Road
Burnsville

GRIGG ELECTRIC CO

111 COXE AVE
Asheville

Handi-Man Services

141 Dry Creek Ridge
Hendersonville

Handyman Matters of Western North Carolina

4900 Jeter Mountain Rd
Hendersonville

Harrington Electric Inc

8 Laurel Rd
Arden

HAYES & LUNSFORD ELECTRICAL

39 Dogwood Rd
Asheville

Hendersonville Custom Painting & Remodeling

211 Windsor Ct..
Hendersonville

Henson Electric

408 sunny dr

HI TECH SYSTEMS

9 Old Burnsville Hill Rd Ste 6
Asheville

High Country Construction

442 Dillingham Cir
Asheville

Hire a Husband Handyman Services

130 Avondale Rd
Asheville

HOLCOMBE ELECTRIC & CONTROL CO

31 SPRINGWOOD DR
Asheville

HOME DEPOT

795 FAIRVIEW RD
Asheville

HomeSource Builders

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HomeSource Design Center

172 Charlotte Street
Asheville

HONEY DEW IT

540 N FORK RD
Barnardsville

HoneyDid Handyman

115 Sleepy Hollow Ln
Canton

Horizon Heating & Air Conditioning Inc

1581 N Allen Rd
Hendersonville

HOUSE ELECTRIC INC-ASHEVILLE

555 POND RD
Asheville

HUGH GILLIAM ELECTRICAL

3467 BAT CAVE RD
Old Fort

HYATT ELECTRIC CO

600 HAYWOOD RD
Asheville

Isom Electric

3300 N. Main Street., Ste D, PMB 325

J R HAYES ELECTRIC

17 WAVERLY RD
Asheville

J&J Construction and Landscaping

8 Crestland Rd
Asheville

Jackson Electrical Contractors, Inc.

57 Hunter's Ridge Rd.
Mills River

Jerry's Handyman Services

2211 Vashiers Valley Road
Brevard

Jesse Klennon

220 Mansfield Street
Hendersonville

JLS Electrical Contractors

420 Lake Falls Rd
Hendersonville

JLS Electrical Contractors

408 Old Distillery Rd
Hendersonville

JOHNSON CONTROLS INC

905 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

Jon Fedock Electrician

PO Box 2164
Leicester

K. B . Silver Construction

176 MINGUS ST.
Canton

Kaya Homebuilders LLC

103 Deaver St
Asheville

Ken Swensen

104 Sunset Hills Ct
Asheville

Kilowatt Electric LLC

PO Box 18930
Asheville

Ledford Electric

29 Foster Hill Dr
Fairview

LEE LYDA ELECTRIC INC

950 Old Fairview Rd
Asheville

LIGHTNING WIRING

825 MERRIMON AVE
Asheville

Logik Lighting & Electrical

PO box 185
Alexander

Lowe's - Asheville

95 Smokey Park Hwy
Asheville

M P ELECTRIC

25 SOUTHSIDE AVE
Asheville

M P ELECTRIC

874 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

Mad Rabbit Renovations

15 Alton Way
Hendersonville

Marger's Quality Services LLC

16 Charter Glen
Asheville

MB HAYNES Corporation

187 Deaverview Rd
Asheville

McAuley Electrical Services

518 Lafayette Avenue
Asheville

MCM Wiring

29 Tsali Trail
Asheville

Mehaffey Electric

27 Scates Street
Waynesville

MGC of WNC, Inc.

PO Box 1228
Waynesville

Mike's Heating & Cooling

329 Dogwood Rd
Candler

Mitchell Fields Electric

455 McCoy Cove Rd
Black Mountain

MJ Payne Electric Service

1001 Brown Rd
Pisgah Forest

Morissette Electric Inc.

4 Georgia Avenue
Asheville

NEED A HAND

1057 LONGBRANCH RD
Marshall

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Nemec Construction, LLC

2130 HWY 70
Swannanoa

New Dimensions

Asheville

New Dream Renovations

10 Freno Dr
Asheville

Nicholson Electric Co

334 King Cir
Pisgah Forest

NITELITES OF ASHEVILLE

20 GOLDENWOOD TRL
Mills River

O'Herin Concepts LLC

577 Johnston School Rd
Asheville

Patriot Electric Of Wnc

11 Cavern Ridge Rd
Sylva

Paul's Installation & Repair LLC

POBox 6283
Hendersonville

PORT BEACON ELECTRICAL

PO BOX 16992
Asheville

Power Plus Electrical Service Inc

60 Morning Glory Ln
Weaverville

Quality Air

320 Sardis Rd
Asheville

R A THOMAS ELECTRIC

20 BATTERY PARK AVE
Asheville

R W JOHNSON INC

55 Smokemont Dr
Arden

Raymond Kirkland Electric

97 Sully Ln
Burnsville

Raymond Tuers

83 Springbrook RD
Asheville

Rector Electric, LLC.

940 Fisher Branch Road
Marshall

Right Building

7 Lockley Ave
Asheville

River Ridge Remodeling

1906 River Ridge Rd
Asheville

RLC Service Group Inc

103 S Bear Creek Rd
Asheville

Robert Mackey Electric

275 Brooks Cove Rd
Candler

Sellers & Scroggs Construction

383 B Merrimon Ave
Asheville

Service Today

2001 Asheville Hwy
Hendersonville

SIEMENS ENERGY & AUTOMATION

157 ASHELAND AVE
Asheville

Smart Repairs

1084 North Ridge Road
Hendersonville

SOLID ROCK MASONRY

63 HOUSTON ROAD
Barnardsville

Sonrisa Builders Inc.

1227 Bald Top
Hendersonville

STEVE GILLILAND ELECTRIC

322 MELODY CIR
Swannanoa

Steven D Baldwin Electrical Contractor

69 E Mountain Way
Asheville

Stewart Builders Inc

82 North Lexinton Ave
Asheville

Stuller Power Solutions

130 Ashwood Rd
Hendersonville

Tarantino Electric LLC.

4 Fernlawn Road
Asheville

The Buddha Man Handyman

16 Vance Crescent Street
Asheville

The Co Specialist Electrician

848 Ora St
Asheville

The FixIt Angel JessyLynn

140 Clarks Chapel Rd
Weaverville

The Hoff Group Technologies

8 Fox Hill Dr
Candler

TIM OWEN ELECTRIC

419 Big Bend Rd
Brevard

Tim Wells Electric

1835 Old Haywood Rd
Asheville

Triangle Contractors Inc

946 Riverside Dr
Asheville

Tripp's Renovations

231 Starling Way
Hendersonville

Volt Electric USA

31 Gudger Rd
Candler

VOLT TELECOM GROUP

2 TOWN SQUARE BLVD
Asheville

WAL CONSTRUCTION

16 HEAVENLY VIEW DR
Weaverville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WESCO DISTRIBUTING INC

840 RIVERSIDE DR
Asheville

WEST BUNCOMBE ELECTRIC

115 CABLE CV
Asheville

Whitted Electric

PO BOX 405
Canton

WILLETT ELECTRIC

229 NEWFOUND RD
Leicester

WNC Electronic Service

11 Pineview Road
Fairview

WNC Handy Guy

205 Martin Ford Rd
Weaverville

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