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"I used to have my main breaker replaced In my home. They came and performed the work quickly and the install looked nice. That is until" I started experiencing power outages intermittently. I thought nothing of it until I hired another electrician to come in and install some new circuits and he calls me down to the basement to show me that a few of the breaker switches were not screwed in properly, causing the power outages. I had given them the benefit of doubt and asked them only to refund the troubleshoot that this electrician performed and they gave me nothing but a run around and a hard time. I'm not going to say not to use them, I am just going to ask you to either make them double check their work or have another electrician verify their work.

-Michael B.

A
"Terrific! called the day before with time of arrival. He arrived on time and was completely prepared for all the jobs. He worked straight" through finished everything, cleaned up and did a very professional job. was pleasant and extremely competent. I would call him again and refer him to everyone.

-lynn F.

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Local Articles in Albany

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Angie's Answers

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This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

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The amperage is the rated power it can handle. Modern houses are generally built with 200 amp panels, and a lot of the newer ones are going 300-350 amps as more and more electronic devices and fancy and high-demand kitchen devices and increased lighting are used in homes.

Both are just as safe - the 200 amp one will just have many more breaker slots, allowing way more circuits, and providing more room for expansion in the future, especially for power-hungry things like shop tools. Each uses only as much electricity as is used in the circuits - the panel itself does not consume any electricity, so no long-term impact there. It is just a circuit connection box where the individual circuits are connected, with circuit protectors (breakers) in line before it connects to the main line to your electric usage meter.

Unless you are real tight on money on this job, I would upgrade to 200 amps capacity - the incremental cost is about $100-200 or so over the 100 amp panel. If your incoming power line cannot handle 200 amps, you could install a 100 amp main breaker to keep the power company happy but put in the 200 amp breaker panel, so in the future a main line upgrade could be done with only a main disconnect breaker upgrade of $100 or so, without having to change anything inside the house.

Having the larger panel, especially if 200 amp capacity all the way from the meter, can be a selling point (or rather, lack of a negative point) to a potential buyer with lots of electronics or who is into shop power tools. It would also facilitate conversion to electric heat / water heating if someone wanted to do that.

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

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An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

Electrician reviews in Albany

A

Rating
They came on time and ready to work. There were some glitches due to older construction and they just fixed with they needed to. They were very professional, courteous, stayed as long as they needed to to complete the job and (a biggie with me) they cleaned up after themselves. Before leaving they thanked us and asked us to call if we encountered any ...More problem (which we didn't). I would definitely refer them.
- linda M.
A

Rating
has done work for me four times. He is very punctual, goes beyond what is asked of him, always gives you an estimated price before he starts job. Follows up after job is completed.
- Earl B.
B

Rating
I called, was given several appointment options, was called prior to arrival, came on time, did a thorough job, very professional, and friendly.
- Bill M.
A

Rating
Perfectly. is our official electrician now (and he should be yours too). He was easy to get in touch with, he was punctual, and he did fantastic work. I can do a few basic tasks (replace an existing broken outlet, swap out a light fixture), but some of the more serious stuff I am less comfortable with and want someone who really ...More knows what he is doing. provided us with a fantastic price and his work is done with really great attention to detail. The work had to be completed in stages and he didn't charge any extra for having to make a second trip. We are extremely pleased to have selected and will use him for all future electrical work. Some service providers are friendly, some do great work, some give you a great price...and manages all three.
- Kevin and Liz W.
A

Rating
resolved the issue, charges were fair, especially due to having a weekend call. We had used them in the past for routine generator service and to trouble shoot sudden loss of power in a portion of our home during a remodel. Having used the same electrician(family member) in the capital region for 30 years, and now suddenly ...More having to change left me feeling vulnerable. The rapid response, fairness, quality and professionalism of is a relief and I now consider "My Electician".
- Joni B.
A

Rating
C. arrived on the early side of the scheduled window of time (always a good thing). He was courteous and professional and explained what the charges are for troubleshooting. He checked all the circuit breakers to make sure that wasn't the source of the problem and checked multiple outlets. He determined that the problem ...More was a wire in the ceiling fan very quickly and answered all my questions. (The rate I was charged reflected a 25% discount from Angie's List.)
- Les S.
A

Rating
called back in an acceptable time. Showed up on time and got the job done in a short time. His charge was very reasonable.
- Ray F.
A

Rating
We were rocked out of bed a 5:30 am with 8 smoke alarms at full tilt. We tried changing the backup batteries to no avail. We have a great plumber but no electrician and turned to Angies List. We called at 7:30 am and they answered and said they would be able to assist late afternoon. We described the issue and he suspected we needed to replace the ...More 9 year old units. True to their word we got a call and they were at our home by 2. They provided excellent professional service, explained the processs of repair with patience and detail and were done in short order. You can't take chances with fire in our neighborhood of brownstones so we are thrilled we now have an electrician! Thanks Angie's List but more importantly, thanks .
- Heather G.

Electricians in Albany

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

518 Remodel

411 Rte 146
Altamont

A & I MECHANICAL SVC INC

37 COMMERCIAL ST
Freeport

A E ROSEN ELECTRIC CO INC

883 BROADWAY
Albany

A1 Electric

257 Swaggertown Rd.
Glenville

ABConstructionIICorp

36 Anthony Ln.
Albany

Ace Contracting

Gloversville

Acute Builders LLC

19 New Hampshire Ave
Rensselaer

Ado Construction

215 Sand creek rd
Albany

ADVANCE ELECTRIC SVC

19 SPRUCE ST
Albany

ADVANCED BATTERY SVC

381 BROADWAY
Albany

ALBANY BURNER CONTROL INC

480 South St (RT 9J)
Rensselaer

Albany Home Repairs

PO Box 301
Glenmont

ALBANY METAL PRODUCTS INC

312 SHERIDAN AVE
Albany

Alescio Electric

Rotterdam
Rotterdam

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave SE

AMA Bros Contracting

169 Harris Rd
Waterford

AMBIT ENERGY

250 SARATOGA ST
Cohoes

Ambrose Electric Inc

790 Watervliet Shaker Rd
Latham

ANTHONY CERONE BUILDING SERVICES

382 BLUE FACTORY RD
Averill Park

APPLIED INDUSTRIAL TECH INC

6 ENTERPRISE DR
Albany

Appolo Heating Inc

868 Burdeck St
Schenectady

ARROW-TEC

500 ELK ST
Albany

ARTHUR'S ELECTRIC CO INC

7 NEWTON ST
Albany

AT YOUR SVC

295 HUDSON AVE
Albany

Atherton Painting & Construction LLC

88 Hudson Street
S Glens Falls

ATSCO PRODUCTS

445 N PEARL ST
Albany

AW Construction

9 Chipmunk Chase
Saratoga Springs

B and M construction

5 wembly place
Gansevoort

B&M Painting and Remodeling

77 Fairfield Ave
Albany

Bath Remodel Pro Inc

7 Maple Ave
Watervliet

Bee Secure LLC

241 Hackett Blvd
Albany

Bellamy Construction Co

6684 Amsterdam Rd
Schenectady

Bennett Contracting Inc

693 S Pearl St
Albany

BEV TEK

7 UNDINE ST
Albany

BILL POWELL ELECTRIC

356 SHERMAN ST
Albany

Bischoff Remodeling Inc

5710 Crooked St
Broadalbin

Blueprint Remodeling

7 state st
Brooklyn

Bob Beyerl LLC

43 Washington Avenue
Waterford

Bob Jones Heating & Energy

70 Osborne St.
Albany

Bowen's Construction Inc.

P.O. Box 248
Watervliet

Brant Dean

11 Oak Ln
Stillwater

Brownell construction & son llc

140 Rowland St.
Ballston Spa

Build Right LLC

4 Rogers St
Glens Falls

CAM Electrical Services

1160 Laural Ln
Ballston Spa

Capital District Electric

450 Central Ave
Albany

Capital Power

500 Elk St.
Albany

Chase Contracting

PO Box 61
Ballston Spa

Chris Collins Plumbing

448 Kenwood Ave
Delmar

Citizens Choice

172 W Englewood Ave

CJM Building LLC

1026 Winne Rd
Schenectady

CMV Contracting

16091 rt 22
Stephentown

COLLETT MECHANICAL

20 CORPORATE CIR
Albany

CONCEPTS IN COMFORT

220 OLD QUEECHY RD
Canaan

Country House Digital

607 Route 295
Old Chatham

DAVID NOLETTE ELECTRIC CONTR

87 BURDEN LAKE RD
East Greenbush

Delanson Gardens

639 Cole Rd
Delanson

DeLollo's Hardware

701 19TH ST
Watervliet

Diversified Trades

319 Stop #2 Lockwood Rd
Craryville

DiVietro Construction

4 Bramble Wood
Clifton Park

DJC MECHANICAL

20 CORPORATE CIR
Albany

DON NEWCOMB THE ELECTRICIAN

4 PFEIL AVE
Albany

Dragons Electric

2929 Plunkett Ave
Schenectady

Dymling & McAvoy Inc

PO Box 820
New Lebanon

Dynamic Kitchens & Baths

15 Thistlewood Dr
Queensbury

E & M Construction

443 Wilson Hill Rd
Hoosick Falls

ECKERT MECHANICAL SVC CORP

1161 WASHINGTON AVE
Albany

Efficient Heating & Cooling Services

37 Bloomingdale Ave
Gloversville

EGM ELECTRICAL INC

199 ELK ST
Albany

Elite Home Renovations

116 Bluebird Terrace
Fort Edward

Elliot Enterprises

71 Wilsey Rd
Greenfield Center

Empire State Plumbing, Inc

260 Osborne Rd
Albany

Excellent Quality Home Improvement

82 Bradford Street
Albany

Farrell Brothers Inc

6 Simmons Ln
Albany

Father & Son Home Improvements

114 9th Street
Saratoga Springs

FIRST FINISHERS

2492 CTY HWY 107
Amsterdam

FullTec Consultants

Commonwealth Ave

Fulton County Electrical

114 Water St
Johnstown

Funari Plumbing and Electric Inc

32 Broderick Street
Albany

G V INDUSTRIES INC

3 Computer Dr W Ste 108
Albany

GEMINI ELECTRICAL DESIGN

19 Wood Rd
Ballston Lake

GENERAL ELECTRIC CO

8 AUTOMATION LN
Albany

GENERAL ELECTRIC CO

17 COMPUTER DR W
Albany

GENERAL MECHANICAL SYSTEMS INC

113 HOLLAND AVE
Albany

GENERGY

1873 WESTERN AVE
Albany

Gentech Emergency Power

6805 Duanesburg Rd
Duanesburg

GILCO CONSTRUCTION GROUP LLC

2785 MARIAVILLE ROAD
Schenectady

Girvin Electric LLC

57 Hyspot Rd
Greenfield Center

Global Electrical Inc.

265 Osborne Rd.
Loudon Gille

Goffredo Electric

1381 Lawn Ave
Schenectady

Graves Electrical Contracting

126 Dumbarton Dr
Delmar

Green Power Systems Inc.

1007 Leesome Lane
Altamont

GREG MUELLER

289 MELICK RD
Canajoharie

H F Rist

10 windy acres road
Troy

HAMMOND TECH SERVICES

PO BOX 31
Selkirk

Handy Andy Electric

Rosendale Rd.
Niskayuna

HANLEY ELECTRIC

32 Castlewood Dr
Saratoga Springs

Harrington Renovations

68 knollwood ave
Amsterdam

Herbinger Homes

106 Longkill Rd
Ballston Lake

HESNOR ENGINEERING CO

22 Computer Dr W Ste 2
Albany

HESSION ELECTRIC INC

12 BUCHANAN ST
Albany

HIGH VOLTAGE ELECTRIC SVC

312 SHERIDAN AVE
Albany

Hilltown Carpentry

31 Southard Rd
Stephentown

Hinman Construction

3378 Birchton Rd
Ballston Spa

HOFFMAN & MILLER OIL COMPANY

1736 CHRISLER AVE
Schenectady

Home Helpers Co-Op

111 Columbia Tp
Rensselar

HORIZON SOLUTIONS CORP

4 ACCESS RD
Albany

Hunny Do

13b Woodbine Dr
Clifton Park

HVAC ASSOCIATES LLC

145 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

I & T Building Mechanics

Albany ST
Schenectady

ICC CONSTRUCTION

136 DAVIS AVE
Waterford

Isis Heating and Air-Conditioning

70 osborne street
Albany

J JOHNSTON ELECTRIC

45 HUNTLEIGH DR
Albany

Jade Enterprises

2543 Cty Hwy 107
Amsterdam

Jamcore Home Improvements

31 Collegeview Dr
Albany

James & Doraine Bushnell

43 Martins Hill
Ravena

JDW Contracting

1607 Schodack Valley
Castleton On The Hudson

JEFF LUTES

29 PINEPARK RD
Berne

Jellco Construction INC

PO Box 4550
Saratoga Springs

JOINT INDUSTRY BOARD

100 S SWAN ST
Albany

JPH Property Solutions, LLC

1121 McClellan Street
Schenectady

JR HOME IMPROVEMENT & REPAIR

384 BLOSSOM HILL RD
Ravena

JRS-Handyman

100 Lawrence St
Rensselaer

JS Services

340 Dunham Hollow Rd
Averill Park

JTC Remodeling Inc

688 Upper Sherman Avenue
Queensbury

K O Contracting

118 1st St
Watervliet

K V Electrical Maintenance

1949 Western Ave
Albany

KEVIN J WHEELER

91 COLVIN AVE
Albany

Kimmey Construction Inc

7 Apricot Ct
Clifton Park

KOM LAMB CO

1717 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

KORZYK CONSTRUCTION & ELECTRIC

205 RUSSELL RD
Albany

KT Electric Inc

131 Vernon Rd
Schenectady

Kumpel's Plumbing and Heating

P.O. Box 171
Burnt Hills

KWIATKOWSKI ELECTRICAL MECH

6 DANKER AVE
Albany

L. Zuravin Electric

137 Sanders Ave
Schenectady

LABBIE ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

180 KENWOOD AVE
Delmar

LANDIS GYR INC

437 NEW KARNER RD
Albany

Landor Electric LLC

29 Harold Ave.
Latham

LAWLOR CONSTRUCTION LLC

467 KNICKERBOCKER RD
Schodack Landing

Level Best LLC

207 Riverview Rd
Rexford

LINCOLN ELECTRIC CO

25 KRAFT AVE
Albany

LOWES

800 LOUDON RD
Latham

M & C Electric

Clifton Park

M & M Painting

albany
Albany

M SCHER & SON INC

136 N LAKE AVE
Albany

Malatesta Electric

4 Wagner Ave
Schenectady

Mark The Handyman

34 Joelson Ct
Albany

maxima electric

425 hill hollow road

MECHANICAL TECHNOLOGIES

325 Washington Ave Ext
Albany

Mel Carr Electric

6 Highland Ave
Albany

MEND ELECTRIC

1971 WESTERN AVE
Albany

MJM CONTRACTING

PO BOX 1512
Albany

MKC Kitchen & Bath Center

346 Congress Street
Troy

MOHAWK GRAPHICS

1033 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

Mountain Timber Company, Inc.

1029 Carter Bridge Rd
Greenville

MUSTARI MECHANICAL SYSTEMS

12 FAIRWAY CT
Albany

NBS ELECTRICAL CONTRACTORS

1041 WATERVLIET SHAKER RD
Albany

Nemal Electronics

12240 NE 14th Ave

Night Owl Mechanical

105 County Route 312
Westerlo

NISKAYUNA MECHANICAL LLC

313 OVERLAND AVE
Schenectady

NML Contracting & Roofing

PO Box 11213
Albany

NORTHEAST UTILITIES CONSTR

302 SCHOOLHOUSE RD
Albany

OCONNELL BROTHERS

P O BOX 7
Berne

OCONNELL ELECTRIC

88 S SWAN ST
Albany

OKeefe Electric

1971 Western Ave
Albany

Pact Home Inspections

11 s church st
Schenectady

PC Construction Group

83 Beaver St, #3C
Albany

PD Power Systems

Ballston Spa

Peace Of Mind Electrical

970 Watervliet Shaker Rd
Albany

PEAK POWER SYSTEMS INC

1542 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

PEMBROOK ELECTRIC CO INC

42 KARNER RD
Albany

Petro Home Services

47 Patrick Ln
Poughkeepsie

POSTLER & JAECKLE CORP

1062 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

Precision Contracting

50 Lincoln Street
Gloversville

Primewood Electric

447 Gansevoort Road
Fort Edward

PROMETRIC TESTING-ALBANY

17 COMPUTER DR
Albany

PSS ELECTRIC

66 WATERVLIET AVE
Albany

PWM Electrical Contractors

73 Elliot Rd
East Greenbush

QUALITECH ASSEMBLY SVC INC

25 COMPUTER DR
Albany

QUALITY LIGHTING SYSTEMS

1659 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

R J KENIFIC INC

16 RUSSELL RD
Albany

RAPAZZO ELECTRIC CO INC

23 KENNEDY DR
Albany

RedPaw Solutions

Glens Falls

RENEWABLE POWER SYSTEMS LLC

120 Broadway Ste 1A
Albany

RM Construction

2772 Maida Lane
Schenectady

ROMAR ELECTRICAL CONTRACTING

5 CHANELLE CT
Albany

Ron's PropertyMaintenance Inc

12 Kenlyn Drive
Albany

ROTONDARO ELECTRIC INC

11 PEACHTREE LN
Albany

RYAN ELECTRICAL CORP

48 CLINTON ST
Albany

S & B CONTRACTING CO INC

42 OLD KARNER RD
Albany

S.Y.N.N. Enterprise

3 Elm St
Nassau

SARAH'S UNIFORMS PLUS

32 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

Saxxon Gas and Electric

2619 Earl St
Schenectady

SCHNEIDER ELECTRIC

501 NEW KARNER RD
Albany

Scott Electric

33 Lynn Dr
Albany

Select Choice Contracting

547 Route 67
Mechanicville

SKYLANDS SERVICES, INC

50D Delaware Ave
Delmar

Slingerland Electric

1742 Greenpoint Ave
Schenectady

SOMERS METER SVC

104 SAND CREEK RD
Albany

Southwood services

31 Fisher Blvd
Slingerlands

Stanley Electric

8 Locust Pk
Albany

STATE ELECTRICAL CONSTRUCTION

1110 Central Ave
Albany

Stone Electric

1234 Electric Ave
Rensselaer

SWEET ELECTRICAL SVC LLC

4 WALKER WAY
Albany

T & J Electrical Associates LLC

5 Fairchild SQ
Clifton Park

T LEMME MECHANICAL INC

67 Erie Blvd
Albany

TAP ELECTRIC

11 O'NEIL ST
Troy

Taylor'd

422 Vley Rd
Schenectady

Tech 7 Systems

19 linton at
Selkirk

Thomas Palmer Electrical, LLC

639 Mashodack Road
Nassau

Todd Jobs LLC

PO Box 423
Latham

TOGAN ELECTRIC

103D Overlook Pass
Clifton Park

TOTAL FACILITY SOLUTIONS

251 FULLER RD
Albany

TROTTER ELECTRIC

27 Knauf Ln
Albany

Ungerman Electric Inc

395 Sheridan Ave
Albany

UNIQUE MOTOR CAR INC

2 Tipton Dr
Albany

Upgrade Electrical Installtions

1949 Western Ave
Albany

Vapor Cloud

14 Saratoga Rd
Schenectady

Versatile

470 Troy Schenectady Rd.
Latham

VINNICK CONSTUCTION CO INC

4232 River Rd
Latham

Vogelsberg Electric LLC

Clifton Park
Clifton Park

W K CLOUGH & SONS INC

4105 ALBANY ST
Albany

W R L CONTRACTORS

1817 RTE 43
Averill Park

W W GRAINGER

35 CORPORATE CIR
Albany

Wade Electric Co.

36 Tivoli St
Albany

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WEISBURGH MECHANICAL

250 CENTRAL AVE
Albany

WTPI Service

PO Box 1146

Zach's renovations

462 Delaware ave
Albany

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