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Angie's Answers

?

First - NOT full septic tank - if that was the case you would be getting backup of sewage into the lowest drains in the house, and possible very slow flushing or refusal to drain out of the bowl - the opposite of your case.

Second - I assume you are the owner. If a renter or on a lease, this type of problem may be the responsibility of your landlord, depending on the terms of your lease or rental agreement.

OK - two possible situations here - low water in BOWL, or low water in TANK. I am assuming your toilet flushes OK, with adequate water to clean out the bowl, and that it is a typical type toilet with a tank sitting on the back of the bowl. If this is not the case and it is a designer toilet or looks like those at public restrooms (no tank), then the BOWL answers still apply if it is initially refilling OK, but if not enough refill water coming in at all then call a plumber.

First, low water in the toilet BOWL case. If the water in the toilet BOWL is low after flushing, I see four likely causes, in order of most likelihood -

1) the fill valve is not putting enough water into the toilet bowl. If you take the top off the tank, you will see a small hose (typically black plastic) coming from the fill valve (a vertical mechanism, usually at left side of tank, that the incoming water tube or flex hose connects to the bottom of on the bottom side of the tank). While the tank is refilling after a flush, a steady but not large flow of water flows through this fill tube and down into a vertical pipe or tube (usually brass or plastic and about 3/4 inch diameter, which stands almost full height of tank). The small tube puts water into this pipe, from where it flows into and refills the toilet bowl. This is also the overflow tube, which keeps the tank from overflowing if the fill valve fails to shut off. If the fill valve has a problem or the fill tube has a blockage, it may not be letting enough water into the bowl. Also, check the tube is actually pointed down into the overflow tube - if the clip came loose, rusted away or broke, then it may just be filling the toilet tank rather than the bowl. Check that a steady flow (will not be a real foreceful jet) of water is flowing out of this tube into the overflow pipe while the toilet tank is refilling. You should also see the bowl filling up at this time. If it come in but does not fill high enough because it does not run long enough, some fill valves have an adjustment - check fill valve manufacturer website for instructions. Others just have to be replaced - doable if you are handy at home repairs (see web videos on how to do it), or call a plumber for probably about $150-200 to replace fill valve (have him replace the flapper valve at same time if you get this done).

2) there is something like a rag or string caught in the trap (the waste passage within the toilet body itself) which is slowly wicking the bowl water down the drain - would be solved by a good snaking. If this is the case, the bowl will fill fully after flushing, but then slowly (typically many minutes to hours) drain down to just filling the start of the oval or round drain passageway where the waste passage starts to curve up into the toilet body.

3) blocked sewer vent pipe (which vents sewer gas and lets air into the sewer system so when you flush the traps in drains and toilets and such do not get sucked dry by the vacumn caused by the exiting flow. If this is the problem, then several drains in your house may have the same problem, or drain slowly. When you flush, the water will drain totally down the pipe and almost all the water in the bowl and trap will go down the drain too, typically with a gurgling sound for a few seconds at the end as the air seal is broken in the trap, then a small amount of water will flow back from the trap into the bowl, leaving you with water in the entrance curve to the trap but nowhere near normal height in the bowl - maybe not even enough to fill the entrance of the drain passage.

4) a crack in the toilet, letting water gradually leak out of the bowl onto the floor or into the subfloor. If this has been going on for long at all you should see water on the floor, or water coming out in the ceiling downstairs, or in the basement or crawl space under the toilet.

Case 2 - the problem is low water in the toilet TANK - since this is a sudden problem, two likely causes:

1)  the float arm has corroded or the float setting has moved. Look in tank for any broken part. You may have a black ball on the end of a metal or plastic arm connected to the fill valve (which is the part, normally at the left side of the tank, that the flexible or copper tubing comes into at the bottom of the tank), or it may be a sliding cylindrical float that slides up and down on the fill valve (typically all plastic) - see if it is broken or loose or alll corroded up (for the arm type). When you flush, this float hangs down (if lever type) or slides down the fill valve (cylinder type), opening the fill valve so fresh water comes in to fill the tank and bowl. As the tank fills it lifts this float, till at the proper elevation the bouyancy of the float shuts off the fill valve. If the setting on this float has changed then it will either cause the toilet to "run" continually because it is trying to overfill the tank (float shuts off at too high a level, so water is continuously flowing down into the overflow tube and into the bowl); or it will shut off too soon, causing only a partial tank fill. There are adjustments to adjust the float shutoff setting - typically an adjustment xxxx on the arm-type, and a slider stop clip on a small rod for the sliding type. See web videos on how to adjust this, or call a plumber.

2) your flapper valve (in bottom of tank, the part a chain or cord or rod connects to the flush handle, which opens it when you flush the toilet, leaks. If it leaks AND the fill valve is working, the tank level drops till the fill valve opens, then the tank refills. This repeats at intervals, with the tank refilling periodically even though it has not been flushed. May need new flapper valve or just a good wiping of the sealing surface to remove grit that is causin it to leak. If this is the problem you will have a slight flow of water into the bowl continually, and will probably see a slight ripple in the toilet bowl.

3) water is leaking out of the fittings or bolt holes on the bottom of the tank. If this is happening enough to make you notice low takn water level, the tank will refill periodically the same as if the flapper valve is leaking, plus you will have water on the floor and dripping off the bottom of the tank.

 

Fill valve and flapper valves each cost around $15 if you do it yourself (you can buy just replacement flapper for less if that is the problem and the matching seal is good, but that is rarely the case). A plumber call to replace both probably $150-200, ASSUMING your water shutoff valve (at the wall, under the tank, with a flex or copper tube coming fromit up to the toilet tank) will work.. If it will not shut off the flow of water, then add another $50-150 to replace that, depending on how it is plumbed and whether he has to cut into the wall to replace it (rarely required). If you do go and have a plumber do it, have both the fill valve and flapper valve (and flush handle, if aluminum or brass and corroded) replaced at the same time, as all tend to go out with age - every 10 years or so. You don't want to have to call the plumber to replace another part in just a year or two.

?

From the sounds of it, you have a clog between the floor drain and the connection to the city sewer (unless you have a septic tank).  The lower flow rates of sinks / showers / dishwashers probable don't cause a backup like the washing machine does.  A couple of suggestions.

1.  Snake the drain line with a spade tip snake, twisting the snake as you advance it.  This should clear the partial blockage.

 2.  If feasable, have your washing machine discharge into a utility sink and put a strainer on the drain to catch the clothing fibre (fibres and grease from the sink probably made the clog in the first place not to mention a garbage disposal).

3.  Replace your floor drain with one that has a backflow preventer (looks like there is a ping pong ball in it).

 Good Luck

?
It is not uncommon for a plumber to have to go get the parts necessary to repair and complete the job.  It is very hard to determine what the problem is over the phone and it is not until the repair process begins that the parts needed to resolve the problem is discovered.  It may also depend on if the plumber is using hourly rates or per job rates.  I would hope the time to get the parts would be minimal and the charge would be as well!
?

You have not said how old your house is, what normal water line life in your area is, whether it is leaking under the foundation or under the yard, etc. Cost depends a great deal on length of run, depth to dig to get below frost line, whether excavation will be through trees or other obstructions or open area, whether ground along route is too steep for a backhoe to work on, etc.

The first thing you really need to figure out is whether this is a spot repair issue, or a total line replacement issue. Your plumber should be able to help with that determination.  Very general rule of thumb - very old line from before 80's, if galvanized pipe, could be at its practical life and be ready for total replacement. Copper line generally last about 50-70 years UNLESS in a corrosive soil environment or if it has groundwater flowing actively past it, then can be 20-30 years. Plastic lines from the 60's to 80's vary a lot - from as little as 10 years to 50 plus dependingon brand. Plastic lines (PVC, HDPE, PE) from the 80's and later are expected to last 50-100 years - most have not failed yet, so no good handle on how long they will last.

An above-ground or under the slab line a plumber will do. Buried line outside he generally subcontracts to an excavator to dig and backfill the line, or asks you to get the excavation done.

 

If section needing replacement is under your floor slab or foundation, then a full replacement can be many thousands of $ depending on how many linear feet, and if interior flooring will have to be replaced or if you are on a bare concrete slab or bringing the new line in above-ground once you get through the foundation. A simple one-spot buried pipe repair (based on acoustic locating and precisely measuring the location of the problem) can be as little as $400 but probably more often $1000 or so - more if poor access like under a slab underneath stairs.

If the runs to be replaced are exposed in a crawl space or basement than it can run as little as $20/LF (probably $400 minimum job cost) to replace.

 

Outside line to the street can run from as little as $10/LF in areas where the pipe is shallow (no annual frost penetration) and in easy digging soil, to $250/LF or more if deeply buried, have to excavate through trees and heavy roots or boulders, steep topography, other utility interferences etc. Generally not more than $50/LF. Commonly, instead of digging up the old line, they select a new semi-parallel route from a good connection point for you existing interior water lines at the foundation (maybe not where it currently comes in, depoending on access) to the street main shutoff valve (called a "key box", taking a route between them that is easiest to get a backhoe into and minimizes destruction of valuable plantings or trees. A number of $50/LF is commonly tossed around as "normal" for this type of job, if exceeding 100 feet or so and digging and access conditions are normal.

If your connection is in the middle of the street rather than along your side in the yard, that can easily add $2-5,000 to the job, as the water utility usually has to do that part, and repair the street afterwards. In a major throughway street, even more because of traffic control, multi-agency permits, etc.

 

As always, find 2-3 responsible, well-recommended (Anglie's List ?) contractors, and then get bids. The route I would go is first go with your regular plumber to locate the leak (probably acoustically, by listening for the leak) and determine the scope of work needed, then if major, go for multiple bids.

 

?

Well , you've certainly started a debate that will endure forever , but personally , having worked with both products , PEX is a better product . Now granted , the 1st time i used it

I was not impressed , cause it leaked.......NOT because the product was at fault, it was because I did not understand how to use the product !

The trick to using Pex , is to make certain that the fittings seat, they MUST be pushed together with force, and if you do not push with force to get the seat to seal, it leaks .

Therefore , when using PEX , you have constantly to be aware of leaving room to make your connections -Properly !

The beauty of PEX is that it bends , it is flexible and decreases the labor factor ,although the connection costs are often 100-300 % higher than copper , but again , it can cut labor costs in half  and it is safer to work with,  NO FLAMEs!

?
FYI: CPVC and PEX are two different materials and installed differently.  PEX is not intended to be glued but instead has special crimp fittings.  PEX is a brand name of one product that is manufactured slightly differently by others as well so it is important that the same brand fittings are used to match the pipe material.

Mobile homes used CPVC for years and some still do.  It works fine but is not as strong as a properly soldered copper pipe system.  Is the contractor installing this new plumbing a licensed plumber?  I'd be surprised if he is since he's using CPVC and not PEX (or similar) or copper.  PEX pipe is even cheaper than CPVC when run by a knowledgable plumber.  It doesn't require nearly as many joints since it comes in rolls and can flex through spaces easily.

There are some groups raising a fuss about BPA and other chemicals found in plastics that don't like the use of CPVC, PVC, or PEX pipe.  I haven't seen the results of any lab tests to confirm or dispute their concerns.  As far as durability goes it's fairly safe as long as it's properly installed and secured.  It is not as susceptible to hard water damage as copper.  It absolutely must be insulated along it's entire length to protect it from contact to other materials as well as freezing.  Also, the fixtures in the house need to be grounded electrically since the pipe itself provides no electrical protection against accidental shock or electrocution.  In a copper plumbed house the system is grounded so static electricity, a short in a wire near a water line, or lightning strike will carry the current out through the pipe instead of through the water to you, ideally.

If it's installed correctly you should be fine but make sure the contractor knows what he is doing and follows the proper procedures to use CPVC pipe.

Todd Shell
Todd's Home Services
www.thomeservices.com

All Drain Cleaning Companies in 34758, FL

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

1st Orlando Handyman Services

564 N Semoran Blvd
Orlando

5 Star Air Quality

1622 Roger Babson Road
Orlando

A Home Guru 4 U. LLC.

608 Lake Dot Circle
Orlando

A New Beginning Environmental

1324 Windmill Ridge Loop
Orlando

A Plumber & Assoc Inc

633 Cardinal St
Ocoee

AAA DRAIN CLEANING SERVICES

751 Pond Pine Ct
Orlando

Abraham's Construction LLC

9359 Dearmont Ave
Orlando

Ace Solves It All

1692 Dolores Dr
Kissimmee

Action Plumbing

610 Silverton Street
Orlando

Adams and Son Plumbing

9786 Lake Georgia Dr
Orlando

ADLER MECHANICAL INC

2700 Bonnett Creek Parkway
Lake Buena Vista

Advanced Plumbing & Drain Cleaning Inc

10065 Savannah Bluff Ln
Orlando

Advanced Services

102 Timbercove Cir
Longwood

Advantage Services

PO Box 41
Saint Cloud

AGSL Construction, LLC

3956 Town Center Blvd #581
Orlando

Air-Pak Services Inc

751 Business Park Blvd
Winter Garden

American Air & Heat Inc

502 S. Econ Circle
Oviedo

American Restoration and Remodeling Inc

4044 Commercial Way
Spring Hill

Americas Guy

16215 State Road 50 Ste 202
Clermont

Anthony Torri Plumbing, Inc.

8469 NE 44th Dr
Wildwood

Anytime Septic

614 E Hwy 50
Clermont

APPLEGATE HOME IMPROVEMENT

Suoth Kirkman Road
Orlando

ASAP Septic Tank Service

281 S Massachusetts Ave
Lakeland

ATR Drain Cleaning, LLC

5290 Jones Rd
St. Cloud

B Haase Plumbing Inc

613 Midiron Dr
Kissimmee

B&B Home Improvement Service LLC

11291 papyrus ln
Orlando

Banban Services

Kissimmee

BC General Home Repair, LLC

2768 Nattie CT.
Orlando

Ben Franklin Plumbing

647 Business Park Blvd
Winter Garden

Benjamin Franklin Plumbing

647 Business Park Blvd
Winter Garden

Best Plumbing & Remodeling

PO Box 621231
Oviedo

Bordeau Plumbing

3676 hogshead road
Apopka

Borinquen Remodeling Service Inc

12772 Gettysburg Cir
Orlando

Brownie's Septic and Plumbing

11372 United Way
Orlando

Bruno Air Conditioning

28731 South Cargo Ct
Bonita Springs

Bryan Plumbing Inc

3804 N John Young Pkwy Ste 2
Orlando

C.T. Lilly Services

7 E 17th Street
Saint Cloud

Camilo Handyman

7110 Harbor Heights Cir
Orlando

Central Florida Plumbing Solutions

10496 eastpark lake dr
Orlando

Choice Home Warranty

1090 King Georges Post Rd

CHOICE PLUMBING 1 INC

3550 Old Winter Garden Rd
Orlando

Cloud 9 Services, Inc.

1201 W JACKSON ST
Orlando

COMRES Property Solutions

PO Box 2353
Minneola

ComRes PROPERTY SOLUTIONS

P.O. Box 2353
Minneola

Cornerstone Construction & Company Inc

1746 E Silver Star Rd
Ocoee

CPM Plumbing

3016 NE 37Th Pl
Wildwood

CPR of Orlando LLC

2478 Pillar Coral Dr Unit 500
Orlando

CT Lilly Plumbing Inc

7 E 17th St
Saint Cloud

Delta plumbing services

3021 Zaharias Dr
Orlando

Desanto Plumbing LLC

21213 County Rd 455
Clermont

DISCOUNT ROOTER SERVICE

P.O.BOX 677752
Orlando

DLD Home Repair and Landscaping

P.O. Box 137411
Clermont

DOMINION PLUMBING INC

10737 SUNRISE TERRACE DR
Orlando

Donnie Daniels Plumbing Inc

4411 TAMI LN
Kissimmee

Duarte Home Improvment

8680 oak bluff dr

E.C. Waters Air Conditioning & Heat

4333 Silver Star Rd #165
Orlando

EXPRESS PLUMBING OF CENTRAL FL

309 Altamonte Commerce Blvd Ste 1502
Altamonte Springs

Fahrenheit Plumbing

4841 Eden View Ct
Orlando

Ferran Services & Contracting

530 Grand St.
Orlando

Fetty Partnership, Inc.

440 S. Combee Rd
Lakeland

First Quality Plumbing

746 N Volusia Ave
Orange City

Five Star Plumbing Service Inc

5000 Foxfire Ln
Lake Mary

Food Health & Environmental Safety

563 Ferguson Drive Suite L
Orlando

Four Towns Plumbing Inc

241 Sunrise Blvd
Debary

FRANK GAY PLUMBING

6206 FOREST CITY RD
Orlando

Gembecki Mechanical Services Inc

1311 Seminola Blvd
Casselberry

Gibson Home Improvement

7225 Windham Harbour Ave
Orlando

GM Plumbing

14624 Michener Tr.
Orlando

Grace Plumbing

7320 Lake Underhill Rd
Orlando

Green's Environmental Services

PO Box 4414
Winter Park

H&S PLUMBING CONTRACTORS LLC

205 Birch Terrace
Winter Springs

Hanley Plumbing L.L.C.

712 Galloway Terrace
Winter Springs

Harvey Baker Plumbing, Inc

3700 Oakview Dr
Orlando

Home Improvements by Tim

2102 Weber St
Orlando

INNOVATIVE PLUMBING SOLUTIONS

7250 Lake Floy Cir
Orlando

J & E Industries, Inc.

P.O. Box 881
Oakland

J and L septic solutions

1511 Grayson Dr
Orlando

J and L septic solutions

1511 Grayson Dr
Orlando

JIMS PLUMBING & IRRIGATION

6915 PARTRIDGE LN
Orlando

Joe Fendone

53 Sargent St
Haines City

Kalos Services Inc.

236 Hatteras Ave
Clermont

kenneth cayson contracting

5033 Mustang Way
Orlando

Knox Plumbing Inc

20614 Majestic St
Orlando

LAPIN SEPTIC TANK SERVICES INC

3031 40TH ST
Orlando

Legacy Plumbing and Gas

875 Jackson Avenue
Winter Park

Mathis & Sons Septic, LLC.

4947 S. Orange Ave.
Orlando

MERCURY PLUMBING

2617 S FERNCREEK AVE
Orlando

Michaels Plumbing of Central Florida

6115 Old Cheney Hwy.
Orlando

Mike Willis Roofing & Construction LLC

1901 N Harbor City Blvd
Melbourne

Millennium Plumbing Works Inc

6320 Brenda Dr
Apopka

MJS Construction Services Inc.

610 Alhambra Ave.Fl.
Altamonte Springs

Modern & Anderson Services

400 S Seaboard Ave
Venice

Modern Plumbing Industries Inc

255 Old Sanford Oviedo Rd
Winter Springs

Modern Sewer Inspection, INC

P.O. Box 2433
Apopka

Mr Rooter Plumbing Longwood

1675 Sunset Dr
Longwood

Mr Rooter Plumbing Oveido

1100 Gallant Fox Way
Oviedo

Mr. Rooter of Central Florida

4220 Church Street
Sanford

MTS Construction Group Inc.

1617 NE 6th Ave
Ocala

Murphy Family Services

500 N Washington St

My Handy Craftsman Inc

1950 Lee Rd.
Winter Park

MY PERSONAL PLUMBER INC

4460 CANAL DR
Sanford

NDS Development LLC

1025 N Pine Hills Rd
Orlando

NEWVILLAGE PLUMBING

PO BOX 622464
Orlando

Nieves H&G Services LLC

134 Zacalo Way
Kissimmee

Orange County Real Estate Repair, LLC

2311 Hedgegate Ct
Orlando

Oviedo Home Remodeling

4040 Live Oak Reserve Blvd

Pardo & Son Plumbing

171 N Cypress Way
Casselberry

Plumbing Mart of Florida, Inc.

21 SE 10th St
Deerfield Beach

Plumbing Repair Service

16743 Porter Ave
Montverde

pope plumbing

1805 paloma ave
Sanford

Precision Services of Central Florida

112 Northwood Drive
Longwood

Progressive Services 24hr Plumbing Service

1064 west highway 50
Clermont

Property Services by Musitech

7512 Dr. Phillips Blvd.
Orlando

Pulcini Construction, Inc.

6923 Narcoossee Rd.
Orlando

Pyle's Plumbing LLC

42321 Pond View Ln
Deland

Quality Pipe & Drain, LLC.

314 E Lake Ave
Longwood

R L Vail Plumbing

8450 County Rd 561
Clermont

R. H. Plumbing, LLC

248 W. Long Creek Cove
Longwood

Rainaldi Plumbing

6111 Old Cheney Hwy
Orlando

Rays Home Repairs

739 woodvalley way
Orlando

Reliance Plumbing

1026 28th St.
Orlando

Remax Premier Properties

404 Broadway
Kissimmee

Renovation Experts, Inc.

2750 Lake Howell Lane
Winter Park

RIG Property Management

200 N John Young pky

ROOTER TECH

ISLEBROOK DR
Orlando

Royal Plus Inc

201 Belt St

Ryan Plumbing

6408 Shadow Creek Village Cir
Lake Worth

Sam T's Plumbing

83 Geneva
Oviedo

Service America Enterprise Inc

2755 NW 63rd Ct
Fort Lauderdale

South Lake Plumbing

1336 holly st
Clermont

Staleys Lawn & Home Service

6425 Sheryl Ann Dr
Orlando

Stanley Home Services

4204 kingbird ct.
Orlando

The Herman Company

12420 Greco dr

The Plumbing Specialist

4880 Distribution Ct
Orlando

the rooter sewer & drain man

2888 sweetspire cir
Kissimmee

Tito's Pipe & Drain, Inc.

759 Alpine Street
Altamonte Springs

TKO Sewer Drain and Cleaning

3829 Pickwick Drive
Orlando

Tom Dooley Plumbing

816 Bay Point Dr
Saint Petersburg

TROPICAL PLUMBING & SEPTIC INC

19468 E COLONIAL DR
Orlando

Ugly Drains, Sewer and Drain Cleaning Serv

2840 Missouri ave
Saint Cloud

Unique Air Inc

4515 19th St. Ct East
Bradenton

Unlimited Possibilitiess

102 Linda lane
Lake Mary

Walsh plumbing

1503 Simonton Ave
Orlando

Water Filtration Specialist, LLC

10068 Malmsbury Road
Orlando

XRC LLC

478 E. Altamonte Drive
Altamonte Springs

Yugo services LLC

6016 westgate dr

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