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Local Articles in 19526

Hiring an Electrician

Good electricians require extensive training and continuing education to keep up with constantly changing technology. Your residential electrical contractor provides an important service to keep your home running safely and smoothly, so you want to hire the best possible person. Read this Homeowner's Guide to Hiring an Electrician to learn more before you hire.

Common Electrical Problems

Although the potential dangers of electrocution and fire should make most homeowners wary of do-it-yourself electrical projects, there are some basic electric troubleshooting tips that can help when you are experiencing issues.

outlets installed on kitchen counter
Interior Design & Decorating, Electrical

Homes are often constructed with just the minimum required amount of outlets for each area.

firefighter at controlled burn in Indianapolis
Remodeling - General, Electrical, Chimney Sweep

Thirty seconds is the length of most television commercials. It’s also the length of time it takes for a fire to get out of control in your home.

GFCI outlet on a glass tile wall
Electrical

Your hair dryer, TV, refrigerator, electric heater — all were working just fine, until the outlet went dead.

jumble of colored electrical wires (Photo by Brandon Smith)
Electrical

All home electrical wires made in the U.S. follow standard color codes that identify each wire's function in a circuit.

Angie's Answers

?
Unless you feel uncomfortable doing minor repairs or don't understand that you should turn the electicity OFF before doing such installations...you can do the job yourself with a screwdriver and needle nose pliars...within 15 minutes. 5-10 minutes if you've done it before.
?

This can be maddening. Over the past 40+ years, in 4 houses, I have had or have run across this problem from gas meter leakage, water well pump column vibration, doorbell transformer, circulating pump, an extremely small (mist spray) water pipe leak, flourescent and sodium lights, security system horn dead battery, gas meter leaking slightly, bees in wall, bat colony, electric typewriter left on, stereo left on very low, and speaker inductive hum.

This seems to be a popular and recurrent question, so I am going to give the long answer for use by future questioners too.

I am assuming you do not hear this noise away from your house, or that other family members can hear it to. Obviously, if you hear it elsewhere also and other family members cannot hear it, then maybe you have tinninitus or are hearing your own high blood pressure blood flow (seriously). This commonly gets more acute at night when it is quiet, so all you are hearing is your internal ear sounds. I had this happen once because of a middle ear blockage - drove me crazy, getting up in the middle of the night because I thought I heard a water leak through the walls. Try putting on a pair of earmuffs or hearing protectors - if you still hear it or hear it louder, this is probably the case.

One method if hum is on the clearly audible side is make a 2 foot long cone out of paper to hold against your ear - like an antique hearing horn - then in each room face each of 4 directions while listening for where sound is the loudest, and turn your head to pinpoint the exact direction - I would spend 10 minutes doing this before getting into detailed stethoscope listening.

Otherwise, sounds like time for the old stethoscope (about $12 at a drug store - get a metal soundhead one, not cheap plastic, which does not pick up vibration as well). Also, if you are older (say over 35 or so) your hearing might have started to deteriorated with age, so if you have children or grandchildren with sharp hearing, they might be able to help track it down. I am sure a young child or grandchild, if you have one, would love this sort of treasure hunt (with appropriate "treasure" for a reward for tracking it down). 

Being careful not to come in contact with electricity with the stethoscope, check all the likely sources listed below. Start by placing it against pipes and walls and floor in each room of the house - water sourced noise goes a long ways, and tends to reverberate in the walls, so if that is the source likely to hear pretty easy. Hold stethoscope against bare pipes, both hot and cold, and heating system radiators or hot air vents.

If listening to water and hot water heating pipes indicates it is not water sourced, then you could turn off the master (outside) breaker or all the inside breakers and see if it goes away. I would only do this during above-freezing weather and early on a weekday, just in case a breaker fails to turn back on correctly when you switch it. Older master breakers particularly, which typically have never been used, sometimes break or fail to reclose properly after being shut off, so then have to be replaced. You want to be doing this at a time of day when, if necessary, you could get an electrician in the same day to replace it without paying weekend or nighttime emergency call rates.

If turning off the master breaker (or all other breakers) eliminates the hum, then turn them on one at a time until you find the one that turns the hum back on, then track where that circuit likely feeds (hopefully it is labelled) and check every switch, outlet, and light fixture.

Humming sources include (not in any particular order, a + in front means likely or common source of humming, - means rare or not likely):

1) + toilet fill valve - slightly leaking toilet inlet valve (listen where water tubing comes into toilet tank, and look inside tank to see if there is any water flow into or ripppling of the water in the tank or the bowl, or from the bowl filling tube (usually a small black plastic flexible tube which comes out of the fill valve (usually far left side of tank) and is clipped onto and discharges down into a hollow vertical brass or plastic tube or pipe in the toilet tank, which refills the toilet bowl after you flush)

2) + leaking faucet - kitchen, tub, shower, sink, utility tub, etc - it is amazing how just the smallest valve leak can make a hum or hiss that you can hear through the walls (especially at night), but only drips every few seconds.

3) - electric service meter dial motor

4) - electric breaker panel - rarely, a loose main power feed to a panel (especially with aluminum main service wire) will get loose enough that it vibrates back and forth and hums in its connector. A loose bus or snap-in breaker slot cover plate in the panel can also do this rarely

5) - gas meter or overpressure vent (unlikely, as you have had it replaced)

6) + boiling in the bottom of hot water heater or boiler because of buildup of lime, but would usually be intermittent - only when unit is heating

7) + furnace fan or electrostatic filter (forced air heat), or circulating pump (hot water baseboard heating), or steam condensate pump or overpressure venting (steam system).

8) - gas control valve or electric control box on a gas furnace, or its transformer (most have a 120V to 24, 16 or 12V transformer inside the front of the furnace

9) + air filter or electrostatic filter alarm on forced air furnace - some have a passive "whistle" opening that sounds softly when the filter is getting blocked, and if blocked with dust could make a hum rather than a whistle.

10) + Some water softener systems also have an "alarm" device to tell you it is time to service the unit, so check that if you have such a unit.

11) - a slightly leaking overpressure/overtemp valve on hot water heater or furnace (would be dripping)

12) - air venting from the air vents on hot water heating system. These will commonly make a hum or wheeze sound, for only for a few seconds at a time - not continuous unless leaking water

13) - city water system booster pump sound through the water column (if there is one near your home) - listen at the incoming water pipe - if much louder there than at other pipes within the house, that could be a house, though unlikely. If you think this could be it, find your water shutoff valve (typically 10' into your lawn from the street) and listen there. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

14) - gas system compressor sound coming through gas pipe - listen to gas pipe outside the house and inside the house near furnace - if louder outside,, this could be a possible source, but the compressor or pressure reducer would have to be near your house. Would also be audible at neighbor's service pipe if that is the source.

15) + auxiliary booster circulating pump in your hot water or steam heating system (there may be one separate from the furnace, likely in the basement or a utility closet - most commonly found on  multi-unit apartment building with central heating and in 3 story or higher buildings, but you never know)

16) + a water leak, either inside or a leaking hose bib or pipe, or in your service pipe coming to the house

17) - electric on-demand water heater or electric-powered water filtration unit under the kitchen sink or inthe basement

18) + refrigerator compressor or fan hum

19) + doorbell transformer (front or back door - transformer is usually NOT at the doorbell, it is usually mounted in an open space like nailed to a basement joist, in an entry closet, or in the cubby space under the stairs - always physically near to the door, but NOT always on the same floor)

20) - any instant-on device like a TV

21) + any audio device (stereo, iPod, music player dock, computer, etc) that may have been left on at very low volume. Also, VERY rarely, if stereo or external speaker wires are run close to and parallel with an electric wire in the wall, they will acquire an  inductive voltage and hum.

22) + anything with a transformer, including stereo, add-on computer or iPod speakers, battery charger (rechargeable batteries or spare car battery or rider mower or boat battery charger), any portable electriconic device. Also portable device chargers (computer, iPod, cell phone, etc) - even if the device is not plugged into the transformer, as long as the transformer (charger) if plugged into an outlet, it is transforming high to low voltage, and transformers commonly hum

23) - electric typewriter left running

24) - electric ultrasonic cleaner or denture cleaner or electric toothbrush left on 

25) - home hair drying hood left on

26) - a lint buildup-jammed bathroom, kitchen, or attic fan. Many of these have, for safety, so called "self limiting" motors that if they jam just sit there and hum, but do not burn out.

27) - an attic cooling fan whose thermostat has failed, so is on all the time

28) - electronic furnace thermostat

29) + air conditioning unit, or aquxiliary air conditioner evaporator

30) + humidifier / dehumidifier - either permanently installed or portable

31) + portable heater / fan / air purifier

32) - automatic animal feeder waterer - either water supply or electric, as applicable

33) - dishwasher motor runningcontinuously - not shutting down after end of cycle

34) - convective or direct-vent oven or cooktop exhaust fan not shutting off

35) + flourescent (tube or CFL) or sodium or halogen light bulb / ballast hum (either inside, outside front door fixtures, or public street lights). These can hum quite pesistently when the starter circuit sticks on, or the bulb is dying and will not start (light completely), so the started circuit tries continually to start the lamp - can make a hum audible up to a block away on street lights.

36) - a dying electronic photocell designed to turn on your outside lights

37) - home security system, especially its alarm or horn. If the alarm is sounding but for some reason the main power is not getting to it, then as the battery goes dead (or if full voltage is not getting to it) is can give off a squeek, hum, or rasping sound - ditto if insects like wasps or hornets build a nest in it, so it cannot sound correctly.

38) + well pump, pressure tank, or filtration system, if you are on a well

39) + insect or bat nest in the attic or walls or in outside bins or cupboards, electric panel/meter, or outside telephone connection box (bees /wasps / hornets most likely) - though this usually varies by time of day, although it would "pulse" at the time of day when they are waking up or going to sleep.

40) + carpenter ants or termites - their continuous chewing of the wood can sound like a hum till you get right up against the colony, then you can actually hear the chewing

41) - a regional hum, as has been occurring at times in Ohio, Wisconsin, and Arkansas - where micro-seismic activity causes a hum or booming sound. Google or call your local paper and see if anyone has been reporting this in your area.

42) + outdoor power service transformer - either a metal (typically army green or gray) about 1 foot diameter "can" mounted on a power pole if you have overhead service, or a 2-3 foot cubic metal box on the ground or in a manhole pit near the street if you have underground service, which usually serves 4-6 houses (so may be in a neighbor's yard) and will have a voltage rating marked on it, usually in yellow stick-on lettering - like 4160V - 220V. Usually has high voltage - keep away safety markings on it.

43) - you have found where the Caddyshack gopher (who hummed to himself) moved to after Bill Murray blew up his happy home at the golf course.

Hope this list helps you (and future users with the same question).

?

As I understand it, you are looking at putting in a fan where there is no ceiling electric outlet. Since I am not sure, will try to break out piece by piece, undersanding these wouyld all be lumped into one job (possibly excluding wiring new outlet and switch). I hate to be so general, but access is the key here - if access is easy and there is a suitable light switch in the same room, cost can be at the low end of this range. If assess is poor and you don't want holes knocked in your drywall, then get more expensive real fast.

1) cost of fan typically $125-250 unless high end model

2) remove existing regular 4" box, install supports to joists and new box (ceiling fans need specially supported boxes due to the extra weight and swaying motion of the fans) $50-75

3) tap electric from existing circuit at existing box, upgrade existing light switch box to add one or two more switches (Adjustable for fan speed, 2nd for light, if so equipped), run wiring to ceiling fixture $125-250

4) put up fan, connect, test $75-100

So - total About $250-425 with no box there now, plus cost of fixture. A simple install to replace an existing fan, or install where the ceiling box was wired for a fan, would be only about $75-100.

This all assumes the existing nearby electric circuit can handle the addition of the fan - if not, then wiring cost will go up. It also assumes there is access via open attic or joists to install the wiring. Otherwise, installation cost OK but does NOT include repair to holes in drywall or ceiling to pull wiring.

Note also that an existing ceiling light box would probably NOT fill the bill - code in almost all jurisdictions requires 12 ga wire for fan motors, most household circuits are 14 or 16 gauge, so would need new wire pulled from a circuit with adequate capacity.

Get bids ! I worked on one job where the owner in a high-end house decided to put in fans with fancy candeliers underneath after construction was done - cost almost $3000 to do installation because all the wall and ceilings were finished in a high-end finish, so all wire pulling had to be done remotely - including removing siding to put in pull boxes at changes of direction and fasten conduit to studs. PLAN AHEAD !

 

?

Click on the Home > Electrical link right below your question - you will find a number of questions like yours with answers about panel and service upgrades, and factors which affect cost.

I would get a couple of opinions from electricians on the general panel upgrade issue, unless you want to do that anyway for general upgrade purposes. If you are upgrading the main panel from 100 to 200A, then yes you have to upgrade to AFCI and GFCI breakers (as applicable) as part of the process. 

However, if all you want to do it install power for the electric HVAC system, then it may be a lot cheaper to just upgrade the outside service capacity if necessary, and then install a dedicated secondary dedicated panel for HVAC system use, without touching the existing main breaker panel. Could make a 2 or 3:1 difference in cost, depending on your current situation.

?

An electrician can help you calculate your needs.  If you want everything to run as normal while on the generator you will need a fairly large setup.  Add the amperages of every device and appliance you expect to use while on the generator including the refrigerator, freezer, HVAC (all components), TV and accessories, lights, etc.  Wattage (which is how generators are measured in terms of output) is calculated as Volts x Amps = Watts.  So a 120v appliance using 15 amps requires 1800 watts.  A 240v appliance using 30 amps (like an electric water heater) requires 7200 watts.  Don't forget to calculate starting amps, not just running amps.  Appliances with motors and compressors require more power at startup than they do once running.

 

A simpler way to cheat/estimate your need is to count up the breakers in the main panel of your home.  All single pole breakers are multiplied by 120 while the double pole breakers are counted together and multiplied by 240.  While this method will give you a rough idea of what you need it may not account for all of your useage.  Most people don't hook up standby generators to the entire house.  Instead, they have an electrician selectivly wire which circuits are powered on the standby switch.  Then when the power goes out and the generator comes on only the essential devices are running.  This saves money on the generator as a smaller one can be used as well as on the fuel used to run a smaller generator versus a larger setup.

 

Most typical homes have a 100, 200, or even 3-400 amp service panels and meters.  If you want to run everything consider a generator that matches your existing service from the power company.  A 200 amp, 220v service is 44,000 watts.  That is your maximum available draw but it doesn't mean you really use that much.  Most people don't.

?

If you already have a fixture there, around $100 plus or minus about $30 if not over 7 or 30 pounds, or about $200-300 if weighs over about 7 or 30 pounds. The 7 or 30 pound ranges are dependent on whether the existing box is plastic or a standard Square-D type or equivalent metal one, because each type of box can only hold so much weight. If existing box is rated 70 pounds or more (ceiling fan or large chandelier rated) then the $100 range should do it regardless.

 

I am assuming when you say mini-pendants you meant from a single box if more than one. If you meant two separate by some feet, add probably about $100 more to add a second box, ASSUMING they will both be run off the same single switch.

 

IF you do NOT have a light fixture there now, then can run from $150-300 range if there is easy access from above (open attic) to $500 or more if has to tear into drywall to install wiring and box so you then have to get drywall contractor and painter in to repair the damages.

All Electricians in 19526, PA

Companies below are listed in alphabetical order. To view top rated service providers along with reviews and ratings, Join Angie's List Now!

24/7 HANDYMEN

907 Moss St
Reading

A Tech Services LLC

PO Box 1113
Dingmans Ferry

A&J HVACR

Interchange rd
Lehighton

A&S INSTALLATION

805 EAST KEATS ST
Allentown

A2Z Inspection Services

PMB#283 221 Skyline Dr, Ste 208
East Stroudsburg

AACE Security

24 Hickory Hills Dr
Bath

Absolute Electrical Solutions LLC

3218 South 2nd street
Whitehall

Agosto Plumbing & Remodeling

1197 Germans Rd
Lehighton

Aicher Design & Construction

2666 John Street
Easton

AJ sons electric

6217 Hickory Rd
Slatington

AJ Window and Door Solutions Inc

151 Main St
Shoemakersville

AL DAUGHTRY ELECTRIC

7 SUNSET LN
Hamburg

ALAN WEISBERG

702 Lincoln Dr
Brookhaven

Alexander Technical Resources

1263 Glenwood Ave. SE

AMEY'S GARAGE

4228 LEHIGH DR
Cherryville

AMEY'S GARAGE INC.

4228 LEHIGH DR.
Cherryville

andersen builders inc

2527 route 115

APlus-Electricians

High Street
Bethlehem

Armani Engr Corp

185 Unionville rd
Jim Thorpe

ARTISTIC VIDEO & SOUND INC

344 S 3RD ST
Coopersburg

Asti Electric, Inc

1275 Glenlivet Dt
Allentown

B. Miller Mechanical & Contracting

430 Franklin St
West Reading

BERKS FIRE WATER RESTORATIONS INC

1145 Commons Blvd
Reading

BG Electric

15 4th Ave.
Barnesville

Bieber electric

32 hunter forge road
Barto

Blue Collar Electric

104 E 3rd St
Wind Gap

BLVD ELECTRIC

525 PERSHING BLVD
Reading

Boyers Floor Covering Inc

3020 Kutztown Rd
Reading

BRETT KING BUILDER-CONTRACTOR INC

7843 RICHLANDTOWN RD
Quakertown

C.J. Construction And Painting

1847 Flint Hill Road
Coopersburg

CA Sheeler Construction

56 Longview Road
Boyertown

Capper Enterprises LLC

690 Firetower Rd
Birdsboro

CM Contracting

2330 Easton Avenue
Bethlehem

Comfort Basement

1250 Bethlehem Pike
Hatfield

CONLEY ELECTRIC

4 WOODLAND CT
Hamburg

Control Alt Energy

89 E Deer View Dr
Auburn

Cornerstone Electrical LLC

30 S Miller St
Shillington

CREATIVE CONTRACTING BY CHRIS

1040 Shelbourne Road
Reading

Damm Electric

30 N Hellertown Ave
Quakertown

Dave Roche Electric Inc

1809 Penn Ave
Reading

David Goodhart Home Improvements

117 Upland Ave
Reading

DeDona Electric

2026 Rolling Meadow Dr
Macungie

Deron J Haines Electrical Services

1737 Orlando Rd
Pottstown

DirectBuy of Indianapolis

8450 Westfield Blvd

Dodge Mechanical

15 S Northkill Rd
Bernville

DONALD E GRETH ELECTRICAL SVC

915 RAINBOW AVE
Reading

Doutt's Construction

3732 Daubert Rd
Northampton

Dries Properties LLC

710 High St
Bethlehem

Eagle Enterprises

P.O. Box 1694
Bethlehem

EagleEye Electric

Zion Church Road
Hamburg

Ed Miller Electric

7003 Blue Church Rd S
Coopersburg

Ed's Property Maintence

2150 Gateway Terrace
Easton

ED'S REMODELING

3943 MIKOL LN
Easton

Edwards electric

112 Old Piney Rd
Jim Thorpe

ElecTek Inc.

47 Cherokee St
Emmaus

Electric Repair Co

504 N 9th St
Reading

EVERETT COURT APARTMENTS

6500 LARGE ST
Philadelphia

Exact Solar

1655 Fairfield Rd
Yardley

Exquisite Designs

47332 Sterdley Falls

Exterior Innovations Inc

3140 W Tilghman St
Allentown

Fisher Electric Plumbing HVAC, LLC

Po Box 131
Center Valley

G Contracting LLC

501 Race Street Rear
Catasauqua

G Technology LLC

4715 Main St
Whitehall

G-C ELECTRIC CO INC

705 E ROCK RD
Allentown

G-C Electric Co. Inc

705 East Rock Rd
Allentown

GAK Construction

202 Washington St
East Stroudsburg

Gardner's Construction

P.O. Box 187
Breinigsville

GC Electric Company Inc

705 E Rock Rd
Allentown

Gehringer Mechanical

336 S Ironstone Dr
Boyertown

Golden Contracting LLC

272 Hill Rd
Robesonia

Gordon Sinift Plumbing

3585 Apollo Ct
Schnecksville

Hannabery HVAC

200 Schantz Rd
Allentown

Harach Contracting

734 Water St
Pottsville

Harda Electric & Contracting

149 Main St
Shoemakersville

Hawk Electric

2613 Liberty St
Easton

Hein Construction Associates, Inc.

7130 OLD ORCHARD CT
New Tripoli

Hoffmaster Services

536 Blandon Rd
Fleetwood

Integrated Property Solutions Co

5208 Hoffman Dr S
Schnecksville

Integrity Auto

4618 Rte 100
New Tripoli

J & K Contracting

763 Old Swede Rd.
Douglassville

J M Ball Construction Inc

3101 Regency Dr
Reading

Jake of All Trades

324 Spring St #2
Bethlehem

JC Services12, LLC

2429 Woodstock Dr.
Bethlehem

JDS Construction, LLC

724 Juniper Street
Quakertown

JL Electric

8571 S Ridge Dr
Macungie

JOE GRAY HOME IMPROVEMENTS

511 E LANDIS ST
Coopersburg

K & K Electrical

1968 robin ct
Bethlehem

KECO ENERGY INC

4224 GRADWOHL SWITCH RD
Easton

Keeler Electric, Inc.

146 Davis Bridge Rd
Bernville

Kerry's Handyman Service

3569 Station Ave
Center Valley

Kevin's Lamp & Fixture Repair

808 Broadcasting Rd
Wyomishing

Keystone Home Services / Lehigh Valley

511 Deiberts Valley Road
Schuylkill Haven

KOLB ELECTRIC LLC

P.O. Box 349
Tylersport

Kraycar Tile & Bathroom Remodeling

1889 Blue Barn Rd
Orefield

LACEY ELECTRIC

1060 Old Bernville Road
Reading

Lehigh Valley Contractor Group

PO Box 21295
Lehigh Valley

Lehigh Valley Electric Inc

1871 Brookhaven Dr. East
Allentown

Maitz Home Services Inc

354 W Susquehanna St
Allentown

MCM ELECTRIC INC.

3414 Foster Lane
Reading

MIKE KERSHNER

231 STATE ST
Hamburg

MIKE LALA ELECTRIC

140 BEACON HILL RD
Temple

Monyer Electric, LLC

406 Greenville Rd
Denver

MRP Electric, Inc.

4609 Fir Drive
Nazareth

Ossie & Sons Elec Inc

3385 Station Ave
Center Valley

PUFNOCK POWER & LIGHTING

616 PENNDALE AVE
Reading

Pure Energy Technology, Inc.

HC #1 Box #39 (shipping) P.O. Box 555 (mailing)
Saylorsburg

R J KOHL CONSTRUCTION

400 ELNORE AVE
Temple

Randall R Rentschler Inc

21 S 3rd St
Hamburg

Rays Electric

Lehighvalley

RC General Contracting

1874 Catasauqua Road
Allentown

Reichardt Remodeling

112 Serendipity Dr
Birdsboro

Renu Building & Energy Solutions

1748 Central Park
Orefield

Riverside Electric

5758 Stoudt's Ferry Br Rd
Reading

Robert Chuck Boyer Remodeling

230 Pine St
Catasauqua

Sally DiBartolo Electric

8286 Powder Ln
Zionsville

Sam DiGiosia General Contractor,llc

36 williams rd
Douglassville

Schuler Service Inc

1314 Tilghman St
Allentown

Shafnisky Electric, Inc.

212 S. Dauphin Street
Allentown

Shuey Contracting

8 Barclay St.
Mertztown

SHULTZ ELECTRIC INC

5533 CHESTNUT ST
Emmaus

SPANOS PLUMBING HEATING AC

PO BOX 97
East Texas

Spaziani Electric

12 S 12th St
Easton

srs home refinishing

221 east cumberland st

STANDARD ELECTRIC INC

1413 W LINDEN ST
Allentown

Standby Power Systems

1606 Tanner Ave

Stauffer Construction Inc

145 Limekiln Rd
Bechtelsville

Summit Hill Electrical Service

511 Summit Ave
Reading

Sure-Fix Remodeling

2620 Stephens St
Easton

The Longacre Co

602 Main St
Bally

THE TILE N GUY, INC.

7181 CARLS HILL RD
Zionsville

Thomas Edison Electric Inc

352 Second Street Pike
Southampton

UGI Heating Cooling & Plumbing

2121 City Line Rd
Bethlehem

UNGER HEATING & COOLING

1160 Riverview Dr
Walnutport

US Tree Service LLC

2240 Greenwood Rd
Allentown

Vertex Mechanical Inc

21 Stevens Rd
Stevens

viscomi contracting

810 sheridan drive
Easton

W.Rick Construction

85 Munson road

Wallace Electric Inc

1213 N Gravel Pike
Zieglerville

Warmzone

12637 S 265 W Suite 100

WB Electric Inc

1578 State Rte 903
Jim Thorpe

Wentz Hardware Inc

225 Main St
Emmaus

Wentzel Electrical Services

PO Box 525
Fleetwood

Whitehat Computer Solutions

18 Sunbury St
Minersville

Wire Monkey Inc

Center Valley

Woodall Electric

606 25th St

Worksmiths LLC

410 S Kenhorst Blvd
Reading

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