Roofing parts to keep your eye on

I have a problem similar to Janet: we had our roof replaced in fall 2006 or 2007 (can't remember precisely which year), and I notice that granules have been constantly collecting in the gutters. At first I attributed it to it simply being new material, but it does not seem to be letting up. This past winter was the snowiest winter we had in the past 20 years. Our roof is well-vented. Does anyone have any ideas? The shingles are Timberline 30-year shingles.

One other thing to watch is the kick-out flashing at roof to adjacent walls. I've seen too many walls ruin because of failure to clip and bend the first step flashing.

We recently had some water dribble down our chimney where it attaches to the garage. We had a handyman make sure all the flashing around the chimney was sealed. However, we have had moisture issues in the garage that I don't think this "fix" is enough to conquer. For instance, when I painted the inside wall (drywall) in the basement, after a couple of years it began chipping and peeling away from the wall. I was told this is the result of excess moisture. What's the cure? I would feel more confident about repainting the area if I knew the paint wouldn't start to peel after 2 years.

I as a home inspector, also like to see metal roof drip edging behind the gutters. This helps prevent moisture intrusion into the roof sheathing when the gutters fill up with ice and snow.

I would like this list of problems potential in an attachment that would be easy to print out for my records. Perhaps others would like this option as well.

We're having trouble deciding on re-roofing because I've gotten conflicting advice from contractors about ventilation. We have a thermostat-controlled gable fan with gable vents on both ends of our ranch home. One contractor looked in our attic and said the ventilation is working great - attic wood/nails look brand new in our 45 year-old house. So his advice for longest life is to keep ventilation as is and not add a ridge vent. He also said if we do go with a ridge vent(which we would need for warranty), we need to disable the fan, close off both gable vents, and add soffit vents to get proper ventilation. Other contractors (who happen to be priced more in line with what we want to spend) insist that the ridge vent has to be put in. They say we don't necessarily have to add soffit vents or close off the gable vents. We don't have any experience to help us know which is correct. Of course we want to do what will give us long life from a new roof, but we also want to be sure that when we're ready to sell our home, our roof is ventilated "properly". Suggestions?

Thank you for this article. Exactly what I wish I'd had last year. I am currently hostess to a condo of carpenter bees in the soffit below my front porch roof. Should I contact a roofer, carpenter, or insect control specialist? Thanks again.

Where does the gutter empty out too?

Great pictures! As a handyman and painter, I’ve notice a lot of fascia and outside trim problems. Some of these are caused by improper roofing, or overflowing gutters, but many of the mold and rot problems I’ve seen are caused by bad materials that are pictured, but not commonly installed by roofing companies...ie builders have installed bad fascia(fiberboard),have not primed or painted the bottoms of boards, and other cost-cutting no-no’s that are easy to check on. It pays to check these things on your home or before buying. Pealing or discolored paint is a warning sign. Also a simple coathanger or pen can detect rot problems, and if your fascia is fiberboard, they really need to be replaced within the first 10 years of the home. Caulk between boards and near windows should be checked every year.

If I have a rubber boot that's cracking at the top around one of the pipes sticking out from my roof, what's a reasonable cost to get that replaced/repaired?

Ric, sounds like you need new vent pipe boots... The boots run around $10 plus some sealant. Chances are, if you need one, you probably need them all replaced... Should be somewhere around $200 - $300 for materials and labor.

As a home inspector, I find one of the most common causes of roofing leakage is the fairly of plumbing stack collar neoprene rubber stack collar boots. These generally begin to crack in the Wash DC area at about 12 to 13 years and are totally failed at 15 years. They are easy, inexpensive and quick to replace. Replace boots when they begin to crack. Shouldn't cost more than $75 to $150. Also check that all roofing flashing nails heads are well sealed including those nails holding down ridge vents. Gil Engler, Master Home Inspectors, Inc., Annandale, VA

I had my roof redone in October 2004. The roof is now loosing massive amounts of granules. I am told that's because I need more vents. However, I did not have this problem before the new roof was replaced. Can you please give me your opinion on future steps I should take. Thanks

Thank you Gil and GW!!!!

I have interior water damage to plaster wlls and ceiling. Peeling, flaking paint. Room is add on with a low pitcthed roof. Replaced roof, added ridge and soffit vents. No one seems to know what the cause is. thanks, Linda