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12 air conditioner tips to beat the heat

12 air conditioner tips to beat the heat
Air conditioners need to be tuned up annually to maintain efficiency.

Air conditioners need to be tuned up annually to maintain efficiency.

Date Published: Jan 09 2009

Angie's List consulted with its highly rated heating and cooling companies for tips on making sure your air conditioning unit keeps you cool.

  1. Call a professional: Each central air conditioning unit should be inspected, cleaned and tuned by a professional. A professional tune-up typically costs between $70 and $125.
  2. Keep the filter clean: Clean and replace the air conditioner filter frequently (check the filter once a month). This is especially important during the summer when dust and allergens circulate. If the filter becomes clogged, your system will have to work harder to supply the same amount of cool air.
  3. Made in the shade: Air conditioners with proper shading can be more efficient. Air in a shaded space is cooler than the surrounding air, meaning the A/C will have an easier time cooling the air.
  4. Don’t take the heat: Don’t place lamps, TV sets, or other heat producing appliances near your thermostat. The thermostat senses the heat causing the air conditioner to run longer than necessary.
  5. Dial for dollars: Remember that each degree you dial below 78 increases your energy consumption by about 8 percent. If your monthly electric bill is about $100, you’ll save $8 a month with EACH degree you can stand above 78.
  6. Set and go: If it’s hard to remember to tweak your thermostat before you leave for work, consider investing in a programmable thermostat or a timer for your window unit.
  7. Time to replace? You may find your old air conditioner is no longer efficient. Consider replacing your unit with an energy-efficient model. They’re usually more expensive but thanks to federal tax credits and competitive prices, the prices are falling, and because they use less energy, you save in the long-run, too. When replacing your A/C, look for a properly sized unit. If you install a unit that is too large, it will cycle on and off – reducing the efficiency of the system.
  8. Don’t cool the whole neighborhood: Seal air leaks with caulking and weather-stripping. Add insulation around air conditioning ducts.
  9. Feel the breeze: If your home has ceiling fans, switch your ceiling fan to run counterclockwise in the summer. That will push the cool air down. You can run a ceiling fan half the day for about $1.50 a month, compared to $25 for an air conditioner.
  10. Watch the pavement: Avoid landscaping with lots of rock, cement, or asphalt on the south or west sides of your home. If it’s not shaded it will increase the temperature around the house and radiate heat.
  11. Free from debris: Keep plants, shrubs, and other landscaping about two to four feet away from your outdoor unit to ensure adequate airflow.
  12. Install window film: A great home improvement idea is to install home window film or tint to the insides of your windows. Not only can it help keep your house cooler in the summer, but also warmer in the winter.
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3 ways to beat the heat

Follow these tips to keep your cool as the temperature rises.

Comments

Submitted by Brian on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
VJMOOSE, how's this - warm air rises and cool air sinks. Set the ceiling fan counter-clockwise in the summer to pull up the cool air and distribute it throughout the room. Set the fan clockwise in the winter to send the warm air downward and distribute it throughout the room.

Submitted by Alyce on Thu, 2012-07-05 11:22
As it has been explained to me, and makes sense: either direction creates a convection which will push the warm air down and pull the cool air up, it's just a matter of whether that is happening directly under the fan or at the outer edges of the room. If the fan is sufficiently sized for the room and running at a sufficient speed, the temperature variation from the floor to the ceiling will be minimal. Having the fan blow the air down will provide a breeze, making it seem cooler (preferred in the summer). Having the fan pull the air up will prevent the breeze from hitting you (preferred in the winter). [Note: using the terms clockwise and counter-clockwise might not be the best way to describe how to set them, as our fans blow the air down when they are running counter-clockwise.]

Submitted by Mary Jo Dailey on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
re #9 Tpo... You want to pull the cool air up. Warm air rises, cool air sinks :-)

Submitted by Harry on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
#3 & #11 Are the same I'm sure you heard this befor

Submitted by Jody on Thu, 2012-07-05 15:42
Actually these are not the same. I re-read them and one is to keep the unit free of debris and the other is to have it shaded if possible. Unless someone changed those tips before i read it, at least they are different now.

Submitted by Richard Dawson on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Solar window screens are much more energy efficient than window film. Screens stop the solar heat gain BEFORE it hits the glass

Submitted by ty stover on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
I believe that #9 should read "Pull the cool air up" not down. Warm air rises and cool air sinks. Like a hot air balloon. That is why in the winter you run the fans the other direction to pull the warm air down.

Submitted by Kurt Erickson on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Another tip is consider installing radient heat barrier in the attic. I used Alenco (local KC company) to install their eShield product which is garanteed to save 25% in cooling and heating costs. I can really tell the difference in the 2nd floor this summer.

Submitted by Tom on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
I have a friend in the AC business. His comment was if the AC is working well (15 degree or better differential) then leave it alose or you will waste your money

Submitted by Michael on Sat, 2012-07-07 03:15
If your friend in the AC business has given you this advise. Your friend is probably old school. And if he is licensed, his license should be reconsidered offering this kind of advise. What is this AC friends of yours company name? He is giving you wrong advise. So don't listen to him. Let me ask you this, do you feel the same about your car? Don't service your car. What will happen if you take that advise? Your engine will eventually fail, leaving you stranded when you least expect it. My advice, don't listen to this friend of yours. NOT GOOD ADVICE.

Submitted by Corey on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
#9 makes no sense the way it is worded. Hot air rises and cool air sinks!

Submitted by Bob on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Window film voids your window warranty!!! Solar Screens are much better and the added benefits are to many to list.

Submitted by B. Wulfe on Fri, 2012-07-06 13:49
Come on! IF something were to go wrong with the glass ( unlikely) it isn't that difficult to remove window film. A major differentiating factor between film and a solar screen is the view. If the window has a limited view or isn't something you care about; then screens are fine. If you want to have the clearest possible view (while reducing heat transmission) then film is a better choice. Also, most fixed windows will not provide a means of installing a screen; without screwing into the exterior frame (which would definitely void your warranty; with no option of reversing the install). You could mount on the side of your house, past the actual window frame; but this typically is not very aesthetic. in the end, either solution is debatable; depending upon the specific installation. Neither should be automatically ruled out or in; without consideration of multiple factors (Cost, Savings to be gained depending upon regional environment, Aesthetics Desired, etc. ). Depending upon the age of your existing windows, it might even make more sense to replace them with modern Low-E or alternative insulating windows.

Submitted by Cathe on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Great ideas. The dark film is one I am going to start with especially in my sunroom. Most of your suggestions I already do except for the thermostat. We keep it at 75 degrees because we're comfortable with that temperture.

Submitted by Nancy L Young on Tue, 2012-08-14 10:33
It's not difficult to be comfortable with the termostat set at 65 or even 55 in the winter. If you're used to having it set at 75 and want to save money and contribute less to global warming, you can gradually reduce the setting a month at a time. If you feel cold, put on warmer clothes. If you've been sitting, stand up and do some vigorous exercise like jumping jacks, running up and down stairs or jumping rope. It's good for your body, your brain and the planet.

Submitted by Pat Gallina on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Once you get the unit professionally cleaned keep the outside unit hosed down every few months to keep dirt build up plus keep a check on your drainage line to make sure it does not back up in your attic. My husband suggests pouring some Clorox in the drain to eat mold build-up. He also has safety switches on our units so if there is a power surge, etc. it will not destroy the units. Our units are 20 years old and running strong.

Submitted by Michael on Sat, 2012-07-07 03:06
Your system is 20 years old and running strong? That's great!! But how much is your out of warranty system costing you to run each month? Knowing you would save anywhere from 30 to 50% each month, having a new system will help you to breath a heathier environment. How can anyone choose to keep a system 20 yrs old? I would bet you will begin to have problems sooner than later and that your systems days are numbered. Btw. Are you checking capacitors and contractor points for wear? This is just a few more things needed to check your systems performance.

Submitted by Arlene on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Helpful info, thanks

Submitted by anne auguste on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
i would like to install window film to a few windows, Can you please tell me which type should I used.

Submitted by Jim Wall on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
This advice is pure gold, as we have spent hundreds of $$$ and misery this year on our 17-year old unit for our home built in 1956...the cost soars quickly and miserably.

Submitted by Kelly on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Re:number 9. Hot air rises, does it not? So you want to run the fan counter-clockwise in the winter, I believe.

Submitted by Chuck Miller on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
• BEWARE of the "Annual Tune-ups" for discounted prices! These sales are often used by the vendor to "find" extras that are bogus and not included in the price -- charging inflated prices for material and labor for parts that are not needed; venting freon and then charging excess cost to replace; and charging exorbitant rates for house cleaning that the average home owner can easily accomplish. • That's only ELEVEN -- Number 3 and number 11 are the same! • Number 5 is not contextually correct, If you increase 8% for each degree colder than (BELOW) 78 degrees, that has no direct correlation with saving 8% for each degree (ABOVE) 78 degrees that you set your thermostat. • Number 6 is INCORRECT. Setting back the thermostat for short durations (less than 24 hours or less) is easily demonstrated as NOT cost effective, and less comfortable. It takes a lot more energy to cool down a home over a short period, than it does to retain a steady state interior temperature. Allowing the home to increase inside temperature during shorter periods, allows building materials to heat soak which takes longer to return it to cooler states; to re-cool the house usually will occur during hotter periods of the day, rather than the cooler periods; and it allows humidity levels (moisture) to rise during the setback time, which causes the air to feel warmer and less comfortable and takes a much longer time to reduce again after the fact. • Number 9 is factually incorrect. Heat rises, so static air closer to the ceiling is always several degrees warmer than near the floor. Using a ceiling fan PUSHES THE HOTTER AIR DOWNWARD, not the cool air! The main advantage to a ceiling fan is that it causes the air to be more uniformly mixed, floor to ceiling, AND it causes more rapid air circulation which allows perspiration to evaporate more quickly, thus cooling the skin and increasing comfort. • A point not mentioned is the benefit of setting your A/C FAN switch to always "ON" rather than automatic. This keeps the air circulating throughout the house more uniformly; better balances the air temperature between basement, 1st and 2nd floors (when only a single unit or thermostat is controlling the cooling); and recognizes that the max electrical load on the fan is the starting load, so leaving the fan running 24/7 is equal or cheaper than having it stop and start with the A/C compressor.

Submitted by Good Neighbor on Sat, 2012-07-07 07:43
My A/C Specialist advises that you should leave the fan running all the time by turning the switch from "Auto" to "On". It takes more electricity to start and stop the fan than to run constantly. Second, it does keep the air circulated thought the house without having the cold and hot air pockets.

Submitted by William on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Kelly, No. 9 Is correct you always want your fan turning counter clock wise in the summer. This causes a downward breeze causing you to feel cooler, In the winter time you turn your fan to run clockwise which pulls cool air from the floor to the ceiling where warmer air is forcing the warmer air down.

Submitted by sassysimo on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Re: number 9...Correct summer setting is forward, or counter-clockwise. Winter setting is reverse, or clockwise.

Submitted by DLK on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Don't forget about switching to CFL lighting instead of incandescent. Incandescent light is 90% heat while fluorescents not only burn cooler but also use 25% of the energy for the same amount of brightness, and last about 10X longer, win/win.

Submitted by Greg on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Re; #9 Since when does cold air rise ?

Submitted by Janee Jarrell on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Pour a cup of bleach, followed by a good gallon of warm/hot water into the vent pipes in the attic when you turn the unit off for the season and then, before you turn it back on. It's worth crawling over whatever's in the attic to do it. If you need to call for service if it clogs and over-flows the drain pan, after emptying the drain pan, that's essentially all the service tech will do. The same goes for spraying out the bottom of the unit, if there is a space for leaves and debris to clog up. That too, was a $60 service all for the tech to use our hose. Also, if you have serious winter, consider getting a cover for the unit, it cuts down on the debris that can collect. And an air conditioner should never need freon or coolant added unless there wasn't enough put in to start with. It's a closed system which means that an older unit does not use freon like your car uses oil. If it's not cooling because there's not enough freon, there is a leak. Period.

Submitted by Smartysmom on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
well, so much for Angie's List's highly rated heating and cooling contractors.

Submitted by Linda Dyson on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
I wish I know which way to set the fan in number 9. I am more confused now after reading the comments

Submitted by Peggy on Thu, 2012-07-05 16:46
It really doesn't matter which way you have your ceiling fan set. The point is, you are moving the air in the room, and that might make it so you can set the thermostat a touch warmer in the summer, and still feel comfortable. That will save you money. Experiment to see which way you like the fan set to turn. It is not as if one direction warms the air, and the other direction cools it. The fan is just stirring the air in the room.

Submitted by Michelle Jolly on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Chuck is obviously an HVAC professional; like me. I was all charged up; ready to say what he did... but he covered pretty much everything I would have. The only thing I would add is a comment on the "shade" suggestion. Do Not build a shade over the top of your unit - or interfere with the air flow in any way... your unit needs to have 36" clear on the coils all around. I might also add that many companies pay their employees based on a commission of what they sell. Just a head’s up. Buyer Beware.

Submitted by Michelle Jolly on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Chuck is obviously an HVAC professional; like me. I was all charged up; ready to say what he did... but he covered pretty much everything I would have. The only thing I would add is a comment on the "shade" suggestion. Do Not build a shade over the top of your unit - or interfere with the air flow in any way... your unit needs to have 36" clear on the coils all around. I might also add that many companies pay their employees based on a commission of what they sell. Just a head’s up. Buyer Beware.

Submitted by Dempsy on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Re #9 - It really doesn't matter which direction the fan is turning because the fan is circulating a fixed amount of air in the room. If it pushes it in the middle of the room, odds are the ENTIRE room's air is being mixed. The ceiling fan is for PERCEIVED cooler temperatures, not actual temperature change. All they do is move the air around, they don't cool it.

Submitted by Mark Piscitelli on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
The ceiling fan will also generate heat all on it's own which contributes to the problem. Follow Chuck's advice and just turn on your furnace fan and leave it on, this is the BEST way to move air. A thorough tune-up may cost upwards of $189 and can include a cleaning of the indoor coil. Dirty coils are the #1 problem with inefficient air conditioning. If you have a dirty coil (which way too many systems do) then none of these tips will make a significant difference, they amount to putting band-aids on a sinking boat.

Submitted by KayeK on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
I disagree with the comments that say #3 & 11 are the same. #3 is stating that shading your unit will assist it's effectiveness. #11 Is in saying if you have shrubs near your unit. trim them to keep them a 2-4 ft distance from the unit so it can "breathe."

Submitted by KayeK on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
OK, guys, if the ceiling fan thing is confusing you, just concentrate on the other 10 things to do. Let's not worry about the "gnat" and ignore the intent of the article.

Submitted by Mike P on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
A word of warning about just "your A/C FAN switch to always "ON" rather than automatic." On some units this creates a pressure that prevent the condensate from draining properly and overflowing the pan. I'd turn it off for an hour or so a day to allow all to drain, maybe more in high humidity areas.

Submitted by Kevin on Fri, 2012-07-06 11:37
We have installed systems with advance or ECM indoor blower motors. With these systems the fan never shut off, it will run 24 hours a day seven days a week. These fans run at lower speed when circulating air without a call for heat or cool. Running these fans cost roughly $50.00 - $70.00 a year. When in the on position you cant here the air moving, and in most cases you dont feel the air. Not only does this save money on cooling or heating cost, because the air is always moving and circulating between levels. This also keeps the air cleaner in the house, with the air exchanges constantly over the filtration system. Keep in mind you will need to clean, or replace your filters more often. Convential fan motors (PCS motors) can cost $400.00- $600.00 a year to operate constantly. The drain issue mentioned should never happen, if the system is properly installed with a drain trap, coil installed correctly, and the drain is primed before the cooling season. If the drain is primed, it eliminates the air lock which prevents the water from draining into the trap. If you have a furnace with air conditioning in the attic, you should always have a drain pan under the equipment with a safety switch installed in the pan. The safety switch should be wired into the low voltage circuit of the a/c system. The switch will active if water is present in the pan due to an overflow from the indoor coil or drain blockage. This can save costley sheet rock repairs. It is always best to have your equipment serviced each year by a certified contractor. The cost for this varies, but should take the technician at least 1 1/2 hours to do. We charge $159.00 for an a/c tune up. In all cases for tune ups you should have a journeyman technician performing this work for you. Many companies will hire and use a tranie to perform this work. This cuts there cost, and allows them to offer the service at a much lower rate. You get what you pay for.

Submitted by Debbie on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Great ideas about the air conditioning. As for ceiling fans, they run counter-clockwise in summer and concentrate the breeze straight down into the room where you can feel it's effects. In winter they should be run clockwise, then the warm air above them is pushed down along the walls.

Submitted by Richard on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
As long as your unit has the power to bring the temperature down within a reasonable time, you WILL save by letting the unit off when you are away. That's basic high school physics. Be sure to seal around window units. I use packing tape to cover the pleated panels on the side of the unit - these panels don't seal out the air. I cut a swim noodle in half and use a piece to seal the gap between the sashes. When replacing a roof or siding, go with white or close to white to reduce heat absorption. In humid weather, check your window units occasionally to see if they froze up. Condensation will freeze on the inside coils and stop the airflow. If this happens, turn the unit to fan only for a few minutes to melt the ice.

Submitted by Harvey on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Window film's good, but don't ignore outside hanging shades from stores like Home Depot. They cut some sun BDEFORE it hits the glass, will last a couple of years (if you take them down before southern hurricanes, round $26

Submitted by Nan on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
If you have a hose, wetting down the outside of the building on the south/west side will take away a lot of heat, especially if your exterior is masonry. Ditto the concrete patio, stone landscaping close to the building. Do it as you water your plants each evening and the AC will go off much earlier because the walls will stop radiating to the interior.

Submitted by L Edwards on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Having your unit serviced is a good idea. My service man found some worn out wires and a mouse nest in the electrical section.

Submitted by Don on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
"A point not mentioned is the benefit of setting your A/C FAN switch to always "ON" rather than automatic. This keeps the air circulating throughout the house more uniformly; better balances the air temperature between basement, 1st and 2nd floors (when only a single unit or thermostat is controlling the cooling); and recognizes that the max electrical load on the fan is the starting load, so leaving the fan running 24/7 is equal or cheaper than having it stop and start with the A/C compressor. " I think this is incorrect. I've put ammeters on fan motors and the starting current jumps only for about a second. A better idea is to run your fan for 60-90 seconds after the "demand for cooling" stops. I have a fancy thermostat (Honeywell TH8321u) which supports this. Even though the AC stops, the forced air fan runs for 90 seconds after. This not only circulates the air, but pulls some extra cooling off the coils.

Submitted by Michael on Sat, 2012-07-07 03:21
Here in the south. Leaving your Tstats fan ON constantly will only increase humidity making the air seem sticky and not comfortable. Unless you have another source for dehumidifying the air when AC is not calling at T stat, leave stat on Auto to avoid high humdilty levels.

Submitted by VJMOOSE on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
i am totally confused about the use of ceiling fans and in which direction they should be spinning in the summer. would someone who really has the correct scientific answer tell me what to do. thanks

Submitted by rajadaja on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Chuck, I believe you are wrong about the auto thermostat. If you are at work all day you should raise the temp a few degrees. Yes the system will run longer when you return, but will use less energy overall. The walls aren't going to warm up that much . its the air that fluctuates quickly. Also, don't downplay the effectiveness of the ceiling fan. It can make a room feel several degrees cooler.

Submitted by contrazz on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Item #7 - regarding air conditioner sizing - not only will excessive cycling reduce the efficiency, it can contribute to humidity control issues. In my professional opinion, you are better off with an AC that is a bit undersized rather than oversized. It will only "fall behind" on the warmest days - but you'll be comfy anyway, because the indoor humidity will be lower. (This is an admittedly controversial opinion among professionals.)

Submitted by contrazz on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Ceiling fans are often misunderstood. Yes, the fan's motor adds a tiny bit of heat to the room it's in. But it creates much more comfort by increasing the evaporative cooling of the occupant's skin than it loses through that small amount of heat. You can be comfortable at a higher room temperature with a ceiling fan than without. So the air conditioning savings can greatly outweigh the fan's small energy contribution. Especially true if the air conditioner provides good humidity control No matter which direction the ceiling fan runs, it tends to "de-stratify" the air in the room, making for more even temperatures. However, setting the fan so that the air blows down is generally better in the cooling season, and blowing up better in the heating season. In the cooling season, the downward flow's "wind chill effect" adds to the comfort. In the heating season it subtracts. These statements depend somewhat on where the people are arranged in the room.

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