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5 car repairs you shouldn't skip

Having your car routinely maintenanced can help extend its lifespan.

Having your car routinely maintenanced can help extend its lifespan.

Date Published: Jan 09 2009

We often don’t think about maintenance on our vehicles until something is wrong. But keeping your car in top running condition is vital.

Angie’s List went to highly-rated auto repair professionals for the 5 auto service items you shouldn’t skip out on.

Oil Changes: Oil is the engine’s blood and it's critical to ensuring a car’s long life. Your vehicle’s oil should be changed depending on your driving habits, typically every 3,000-7,000 miles or around 3-6 months. You should check your car's oil level about every 1,000 miles.

"Keep your oil changed - it is the easiest thing to overlook and ignore but the most important thing anyone can do," says Terry Irwin of highly rated Aloha Auto Center in Hillsboro, Ore. "We see more worn engine parts due to the lack of oil changes."

Tire Maintenance: Properly maintained tires improve your vehicle's steering, stopping and traction. Tire pressure should be set to the manufacturer’s specifications, which can usually be found in the owners' manual, on a sticker inside fuel filler door or on the door well of the driver's side door.

"It’s important to keep your tires inflated to the pressure that is recommended by the manufacturer of the car; Proper inflation keeps your tires wearing correctly," says David Beck of highly rated All Star Tire & Auto Service in Indianapolis.

Over- or under-inflated wears tires out faster, can negatively affect fuel consumption and present a safety hazard. Get your tires rotated and balanced every 6,000-8,000 miles and get the alignment checked at least once a year to make sure there are not suspension problems.

Fluids: Transmission fluid, brake fluid, and coolant can break down over time and lose their effectiveness. All fluids should be checked and topped off every oil change. Have your transmission fluid flushed out every 50,000 miles, depending on your driving habits and your vehicle manufacturer's specifications.

Brake Check: A brake inspection should be part of your vehicle’s ongoing regular maintenance to ensure safety and reliability.

Have your brakes inspected at least once a year or more often if you experience grinding, vibrations or shaking when you brake. Regardless of the vehicle, brakes generally need to be replaced every 20,000-30,000 miles.

Scheduled Maintenance: Failure to follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance schedule could lead to loss of warranty coverage, breakdowns, poor fuel economy and a higher cost of ownership in the long run.

Having a certified professional inspect your car according to these schedules is an opportunity to catch problems before they get you stuck or escalate into larger repairs.

Build a relationship with a shop or mechanic. Bouncing from shop to shop may save a few dollars on particular jobs, but in the end the only one who will have any responsibility for the condition of the car will be you. "Having a reputable shop you trust means you having someone looking under the hood for any potential problems on a regular basis," says Mike Aronow, owner of highly rated Sunset Auto Imports Service in Henderson, Nevada. 

A good mechanic, who is familiar with your needs, your expectations, and your car, will help you get the most from your car.

*These tips are simply guidelines and are not intended to replace or overrule your owner's manual.

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There's no hard or fast rule about when to repair or replace your car, so Angie's List asked highly rated mechanics for their advice.

Comments

Submitted by Alan on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
For modern cars, using modern oil, changing the oil every 3,000 miles is MUCH TOO OFTEN. Read the owners manual. My Ford says every 7,500 miles and my Jag says every 6,000. Even under extreme conditions, changing every 3,000 miles is waste of money.

Submitted by Bill Ford on Wed, 2012-08-01 06:37
Recommended oil change no sooner than every 7500 miles unless driving in the desert. Don't listen to the ads on TV or the dealers who make big profits doing oil changes. They pull the plug on as many cars as possible at the same time so they can do 5-10 an hour if busy and rake in a fortune. Don't fall for this

Submitted by Brad Frink on Fri, 2012-08-03 13:43
I am an ASE master technician. I change oil in my car every 4000mi with synthetic oil. My car has 436000 miles and averages 35 mpg on the original engine. My wifes car gets oil changed every 5000mi with synthetic oil and averages 52mpg on the original engine with 252000 miles. There is a direct inverse relationship between oil change intervals and engine life. Oil is cheap. Replacement cars/engines are expensive. Long oil change intervals recommended by manufacturers will get cars through relatively short warranty periods, normally 36000, 48000, 60000, or 100000 miles. If that's all you care about, no need to change oil more often. However, if you plan on keeping car and getting your money's worth, CHANGE YOUR OIL!

Submitted by Justin on Sun, 2012-08-05 13:12
I purchased my vehicle at 40,000 miles and it now has 182,000 miles. I change the oil every 10,000 miles and use synthetic oil. My car still gets 40 MPG, doesn't burn any oil, has good compression and shows no other signs of premature wear. At 16 years old, I'd say that I've got my money's worth out of this car and haven't changed my oil unnecessarily in the process.

Submitted by bo on Sun, 2012-08-05 18:34
oil is cheap!!!! really now...

Submitted by Marc on Mon, 2012-08-06 11:27
I am a engineer who been doing my oil every 5000 miles with synthetic oil and all my cars run to about 300000 and they are still running when I sell them. 5K is below most recommendations and it is Very easy to remember with NO reminder stickers. I use synthetic for added insurance but you still need to change the filters and 5K is prefect.

Submitted by Rory Conaway on Tue, 2012-08-07 11:32
If you use a Mobil 1 Filter or something of equivalent quality, then 8000 is the minimum you need to change the oil. I typcially wait 10-12K miles in my cars and have no noticeable loss of compression at 200K-250K miles.

Submitted by Mike on Sat, 2012-09-08 19:16
I've been a master tech for 25 years and own 3 repair shops. You don't change oil regularly because it wears out. You change it because it gets contaminated. That's it's job, to hold contaminates (dirt, acids, carbon, ferrous metals, etc) in suspension. Some of these get caught by the oil filter, some don't. A 5000 mile interval is a good rule of thumb for most modern vehicles. It's the best money you can spend on your car or truck. By the way, if your vehicle's manufacturer doesn't specify synthetic oil, you're wasting your money using it. It has no advantage over a good petroleum based oil or a blend. The only exception is that ALL turbo motors should use synthetic. One major point that everyone seems to miss, however, is that these services are a chance to get the vehicle up in the air and checked over for safety and preventative items. Our oil services include a 30 point check and take my techs 45 minutes to an hour to complete. Yes, for $29.95 we're really getting rich off those. Brakes, belts, fluids, ect all get checked. This is just as important as the oil change.

Submitted by Turbo Driver on Tue, 2012-09-11 20:08
ok you made a huge statement there. what is your reasoning for it? I own 5 Turbo vehicles. Toyota Supra, Toyota Celica, Toyota MR2, Subaru WRX, and a dodge truck. Why should i spend 3X as much when Dino oil has been working just fine for me?

Submitted by jsm on Thu, 2012-11-01 16:13
Id like to explain this one. turbo are in effect small turbines that force air into the intake. they have three compartments; intake housing, cartridge,and exhaust housing. the impeller on the intake housing is driven by a shaft that runs through the cartridge and connects to an impeller in the exhaust housing. that means that hot (read anywhere between 500*-2000* Fahrenheit) and expanding gasses are providing the motive power for the turbo to work. depending on the turbochargers A/R rating, this means that the impellers, shaft, and associated bearing are spinning, with side load mind you, @ anywhere from 50,000 to 180,000 rpm on most vehicles. by using synthetic, the seals that keep oil in the cartridge and out of your intake or exhaust manifolds can withstand more heat and pressure by transferring it to an oil that can take more of the load than a non-synthetic oil. But! the best thing you can do with most turbocharged vehicles is give the turbo(s) some time to cool before shutting the engine off. this allows cooler oil, and coolant in some vehicles to dissipate the heat and not cause the oil in the turbo to turn to sludge. hope that explains it.

Submitted by risag on Wed, 2012-09-12 02:54
What are you talking about? Most decent shops loose there pants doing an oil change , for sure the tech does . He gets paid for 15minutes for a job that is listed to pay an hour in repair time guide books. Telling someone to go 7k miles in-between oil changes who’s car may consume a quart of oil every 1k miles is foolish.

Submitted by mrs bradley on Sun, 2012-10-21 14:09
I am a service writer at a dealership and we do NOT "rake in a fortune" on oil changes. They kill our profits in fact. The manufacturer (Chrysler) actually recommends changing oil every 8,000 on newer models. The dealership is not out to get you. Our goal is to keep your vehicle in good condition so you get the highest value when you are ready to trade. We take care of our customers so that when- not if- something major does break, they come back and have it repaired by a certified tech instead of some random shade-tree that may save you money now but cost you more later.

Submitted by not so on Sat, 2012-11-10 12:24
I disagree completely, cars these days have longer oil changes 6-7k per oil change but this is part of the marketing ploy of big car companies, change your oil every 3k and let the mechanic have a look every 6k. If you change the oil you'll save so much more money in the long run, and the car will last much longer.

Submitted by Phil on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
Well I own older GMC plumbing vans with about 105,000 miles on them. I would highly recommend changing the oil on older cars every 3k miles but I agree with alan that newer cars should be about 5k

Submitted by Dave on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
I have a new escape. It says to change the oil every 7500 miles, but I only drive about 4500 miles a year. Dealer says I should then change my oil every 6 months.

Submitted by Ed on Wed, 2012-07-18 04:31
If your dealer recommends 6 month between oil changes, I'd do it. Your usage suggest that you drive very short distances every day. This is very hard on the oil, justifying a 6 month oil change interval. After 3,700 miles your oil will be contaminated, at 15 miles per day usage.

Submitted by money-saving-tips on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
The "proper inflation" tip is a good one. Aside from steering, stopping, and traction benefits, you'll also get a boost in gas mileage. You can easily drop 1-3 mpg with tires that are underinflated!

Submitted by JOHN HAWKINS on Sun, 2012-08-05 08:40
MY FAMILY OWNED 3 EXXXON SERVICE CENTERS IN A LARGE TOWN .DONT ADJUST YOUR TIRES TO THE CAR COMPANY SPECS! ADJUST YOUR AIR PRESSURE TO THE WAY YOUR TIRES ARE WEARING.TOO MUCH AIR MAKES YOUR TIRES WEAR IN THE MIDDLE.LOW AIR PRESSURE MAKES YOUR TIRES WEAR ON THE EDGES..ADJUST YOUR AIR PRESSURE TO THE WAY THE TIRES ARE WEARING!!

Submitted by dave on Wed, 2012-09-12 09:01
Maintaining "proper" inflation is very important. The correct pressure should be on the "B-pilar" behind drivers door. Don't look on the tire for inflation rate. The psi shown there is for Max-inflation when mounting tire. The pressure on car will give you proper braking & handling under the most severe conditions. Increasin it a couple psi will give you a "little better" fuel economy but on a regular passenger car don't exceed 35 psi. !! Benn selling & servicing tires for 30 years. Get a good air pressure gauge and use it even if your newer car is equipped with tpms !!!

Submitted by DrunknRuckus on Tue, 2012-09-04 00:43
Determining 'proper inflation' can be a little tricky. Just wanted to throw out a few tips for anyone out there that may be unsure. The only time you should follow the specs on the vehicles placard, is when you are using the tires that were installed when the vehicle was manufactured. It's very rare for tires to be replaced with the exact same make/model/rating that your vehicles rolled out of the factory with. Changing to a different tires size with also make the specs on the placard irrelevant! (i.e. upgrading from 16" to 18" rims). I also tend to stray away from tire pressure gauges, due to inaccuracies(variances from one gauge to the next). Finding the "proper inflation" for your particular vehicle can be easily done with a piece of soft chalk. Simply park your vehicle on a level concrete surface(I prefer the level platform of a large empty parking garage). Mark a line w/ the chalk that goes from sidewall to sidewall. Put the vehicle in neutral and gently roll it forward until 3 complete rotation of the tire. Place the vehicle into 'park', and now inspect the ground behind your vehicle(or in front if you rolled the vehicle backwards). You should see three chalk lines, of which the length of the line should equal the width of your tread. If the lines are shorter than that of the tread width, the tires are over-inflated....reduce the pressure. If the tires are under-inflated, the lines will be slightly longer the your actual tread width....add pressure. You can also inspect the chalk line on the tire, but it's best to inspect the surface your tire actually comes in contact with. Do this for each tire, make the appropriate adjustments to the tire pressure, and you now have optimal tire pressure! It does take a little bit of time, but if you modified your vehicle in any way, you can't rely on manufacturer recommendations or charts. Last but not least, notate the pressure for each tire and use that for future adustments(i.e. monthly tire pressure check). And what ever you do, don't listen to a service technicians advise. There are too many factors that can alter what your particular application requires.

Submitted by pg on Tue, 2012-02-07 14:10
who is honest for auto repair in the78382 area code?

Submitted by BigCheese on Thu, 2012-07-19 08:14
"who is honest for auto repair in the78382 area code?" Trick question. There is no 78382 area code in the United States, and probably nowhere else in the world. Nice try though.

Submitted by braindance on Sat, 2012-07-21 09:35
Hey bright star it is Rockport, Texas.

Submitted by Alan on Mon, 2012-07-23 08:46
I believe they meant ZIP code 78382, which would be Rockport, TX. But, I don't know any mechanics in that area. Sorry!

Submitted by The Hulk on Wed, 2012-08-01 09:21
You're one of those knuckle heads who feels like they're being victimized every time they walk into a repair facility.Trust me, these repair shops are relieved once your vehicle leaves their premises and much better off WITHOUT your business. I would know, I deal with your type all day long :)

Submitted by miko on Fri, 2012-09-07 20:11
have changed brake cylinder seals and springs at 38 bucks a side on the same auto type that the dealer charged 1000......total rip offs............

Submitted by zyzxx999 on Sun, 2012-12-23 09:04
maybe you should educate your "knuckle heads" so they don't feel victimized. And with that attitude no wonder people don't trust you!!

Submitted by normanx on Sat, 2012-07-14 05:44
The oil change thing is definitely important for older vehicles... but newer ones.. say 15 years old or less... are better engineered... and the oil is better engineered... I chance the oil on my 1999 Toyota Avalon every 10,000 miles.... and I'm at 160,000... However, something that was not included... and will destroy your engine if it fails (and inexplicably missed this list) is the timing belt... it must be replaced ever 60 to 80 thousand miles....

Submitted by lori De Garmo on Tue, 2012-07-17 03:13
How right you are!! I have a 2003 VW Jetta. I was advised by my son, who has owned 3 Jettas, and is now into BMWs, that it is essential to change the timing belt before 80,000 miles and then again 160,000. If my car lasts that long (which I entirely think it will), I'll change it again at 240,000! BTW, I change the oil every 5,000 miles. I'd highly recommend the Jetta if you're looking for a car that will last a long time. My son's were at over 300,000 miles before he replaced them.

Submitted by Robert on Thu, 2012-09-27 08:55
Unless there has been a great improvement in timing belts I'd suggest that you change it well before 80,000 miles. Most are supposed to be changed at 60,000 BUT I would recommend changing it at 50,000. I once attempted to wait until I had reached 60,000 miles. The belt broke at 59,000. When the belt breaks, the car stops. The natural tendency is to attempt to restart the car which then results in bent valves- a much more expensive repair

Submitted by scott failing on Sun, 2012-07-22 11:23
my 4 banger honda civic needs oil change 2 monthes. change oil comes up on dash. remember trans fluid 3 years,30,000 miles.or smells bad burned or color change too.good timming belt. good idea.expencive if it breaks to fix...has too me it broke...

Submitted by carguy on Tue, 2012-07-24 10:44
Depends on the engine whether the timing belt is a fatal failure, if it is an interference engine (where the pistons and valves occupy the same space at different time) you will end up with belt valves/destroyed motor, if it is non-interference, a broken timing belt will simply result in a non-running engine, without internal damage.

Submitted by RALPH SMITH on Tue, 2012-09-04 02:13
HELLO . I bought a 64 fairlane in 1998 with 41000 original miles . from a older man than myself. and i,m68 now, and this car now has 58000 original on it . i always change it in the spring and fall . with a new filter . from purolator. and use castrol 5W30 . and i have had it on 4 1200 moile trips one way . and this car does not burn a drop of oil. but i drive it not over 70 mph . i recall many yrs ago my dad , would change his oil every 1000 miles . this would be approx. 60 yrs ago. should i be changing mine at 1000 miles . as i drive mostly hwy .miles. thank you kindly. ralph smith ontario canada

Submitted by Mike on Tue, 2012-09-11 20:57
I would change the oil in your Fairlane every 3000 miles if it mainly sees a lot of short trips around town, or every 5000 miles if it is mostly highway driving. Not sure how many years ago your dad was changing his oil at every 1000 miles, or what type of car it was on, but based on the fact that you're 68 now I'm guessing it may or may not have had an adequate oil filtration system (the 1955 265 cubic inch small block Chevy V8s had no oil filtration system machined into the engine block; they relied on an lousy add-on filter that was mounted on the thermostat housing) so maybe 1000 miles was a more reasonable interval at the time. Also, oil was probably not as refined at the time either. Not writing from personal experience though, as I'm 36 years old... As a side note, hopefully you're running leaded gasoline or at least a lead additive through that engine, unless it has hardened valve seats...

Submitted by RALPH SMITH, MI... on Tue, 2012-12-25 03:24
HELLO, MIKE . THANK YOU FOR YOUR COMMENT . I,M THE GUY WHO HAS THE 64 FAIRLANE. AND YES , ON MY TRIPS I NOTICED MY OIL STAYED NICE AND CLEAN ,BUT I ALWAY,S CHANGED THE FILTER ( PURALATOR ) NOT FRAM. AS FRAM CAN COLLAPES . SO WHAT,S A DOLLAR MORE . VERSES MOTOR . NOW BACK TO WHEN MY DAD , USED TO CHANGE HIS OIL EVERY 1000 MILES . HE FOUND OUT IN 1957 , WHEN MY UNCLE BOUGHT A NEW 57 CHEV. IN FREDERICTON NEW BRUNSWICK.CANADA , AND HAD TO DRIVE TO ONTARIO . DUE TO A DEATH IN THE FAMILY. AND THE 57 BURNED I BELIEVE 5 MAYBE 6 QUARTS OF OIL ONE WAY . WHEN MY UNCLE GOT IT BACK TO FREDERICTION . HE FOUND OUT HE USED THE WRONG OIL ... ONE OIL HAD A ( WAX BASED ) , AND THE OTHER A (PARIFENE BASE ). WHICH OIL I,M NOT SURE OF . BUT AFTER CHANGING BACK TO THE PROPER OIL . THE 57 RECOVERED . AND NEVER BURNED OIL LIKE THAT AGAIN. AS FAR AS MY 64 GOES, MOST OF MY DRIVING IS HWY. AND 5000 IS NO PROBLEM . I USE CASTROL GTX 10W 30 . AS I ONLY TAKE IT OUT IN THE WINTER , WHEN THE ROADS ARE DRY . AND NOT FROZEN . AS I DON,T WANT SOMEONE T-BONING ME . SO MIKE THANKS FOR THE COME BACK , AND HAVE A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS AND HAPPY NEW YEAR , . again have a safe one. RALPH

Submitted by billy on Sun, 2012-07-15 07:04
oil change with 0W20 is now 10k miles or once a year in my Lexus and Camry

Submitted by gwats on Fri, 2012-07-20 09:39
Have a 2010 Camry and change that oil and cartridge every 5000 miles, and use that 0W-20 oil!!!!

Submitted by King Penson on Fri, 2012-07-27 08:13
My son's 2010 Scion xD...per the owners manual, 10k miles with full synthetic 0w20

Submitted by ed on Mon, 2012-07-16 03:18
using 100 synthetic oil I change it around 30,000 miles and never worry about it (my 79 280zx had 375,000 on it and it was still running good when sold)..however it's the radiator fluid (water) that should be changed every 2 years or more often...it's head gasket leakage that kill most engines and that's from the acid buildup on the gasket...if not the gasket it's the radiator itself that goes bad...

Submitted by JamalJ on Tue, 2012-07-17 08:28
This list is dumb. More like common sense.

Submitted by ray on Wed, 2012-07-18 04:44
agree, especially the catchall #5 that says follow the scheduled maintenance. If you take that as the recommendation. Then what repair(s) should you be doing? everything recommended by the schedule What repairs should you skip? nothing, follow the schedule. AKA, his should just be a list of 1 item. RTFM. It tells you exactly what to maintain and at what schedule. No more, no less

Submitted by dmakson on Mon, 2012-08-06 11:45
Right on. Did the dealer write this list up?

Submitted by I Know Little t... on Thu, 2012-11-08 09:36
This list is not dumb for people who know little to nothing about cars -- which I am one of. I found this list very informative, as well as the subsequent comments (even the ones that are very technical)...well, except yours -- it was ignorant. When I have the time and money I will take a basic auto course. It's all very interesting to me...except for your dumb "dumb" comment. Thanks to everyone who contributed something intelligent!

Submitted by Mopartial on Sun, 2012-07-22 09:43
"break" fluid??

Submitted by atman84 on Mon, 2012-07-23 09:52
I've looked all over my owner's manual & can't find ANYTHING about BREAK fluid.. Funny how the writer screws it up under Fluids but somehow gets it correct in its own category.... from the article: "Fluids: Transmission fluid, break fluid, and coolant can break down over time and lose their effectiveness. Brake Check: Brake inspection should be part of your vehicle’s ongoing maintenance to ensure safety and reliability.

Submitted by sceesic on Mon, 2012-07-23 11:16
If brakes require replacing every 20K- 30K miles the driver(s) either ride the brakes or don't know how to brake.

Submitted by PumpkinHead on Tue, 2012-07-31 11:26
I concur. I'm a "spirited" driver and my front brakes have always lasted about 60-65,000 miles; rear brakes: 125,000+++.

Submitted by Jerry on Mon, 2012-07-23 12:56
A bigger killer than old oil in the more common 4-cylinder engines is low coolant and cooling system failures. The venerable old Chevy 350s could be overheated briefly, allowed to cool down and driven another 100,000 miles. Overheat a 4-banger and it's almost certainly DOA - often not even worth rebuilding. I agree with the poster who added timing belts to this list, but I'd also say the most important routine maintenance item you should stay on top of from month to month is your coolant system. Never let your coolant level get low. Fix any leaks immediately. And, drain old coolant, flush the system, and refill with fresh coolant and distilled water (with maybe some water pump lubricant) every two years.

Submitted by carguy on Tue, 2012-07-24 10:46
It's not so much the number of cylinders, but the composition of the components. Most modern 4 cylinders (and modern engines in general) have aluminum heads that are extremely vulnerable to warping/cracking in an overheating situation. The older engines all have cast iron blocks/heads, and if you do something to break cast iron you are already way past wrong.

Submitted by billy bob on Wed, 2012-07-25 10:56
This isn't a repair list, a repair is an action taken to restore something broken to a working state. This is a maintenance list, the author really should study English.....

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